check my pics of my box out

[grass]

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/grass1982

page 2 and 3

all comments / criticism welcome

[grandGTR]

looks like a box. lol

Post up when you got it all done so I can check it out. What color are you going to paint that fiberglass or how are you going to finish it off?

[zx7ninja]

Nice work on the box, looks like it's coming along very good. And I love the sight of the 2 GA's in the garage. Beautiful! lol

[grass]

i'm painting it dark cherry red

those 2 subs are gonna fire up (they fire right where the 6x9s are, but my 6x9s keep blowing from the pressure in the trunk (so i dont use any) then later i'm gonna build an amp rack with another 12" L5 firing at an angle toward the trunk lid and 2 JL 500/1 on the side of it, hard to explain but looks damn good in my head hehe

[GrandAmSC/T]

looks great dude. For only being your second glass box i give ya an A++++

About your 6x9's, if it were me id leave them out like your doing it sounds like. BUT if you want to keep 6x9's in there, buy some baffles and put behind the 6x9's that will keep the pressure from blowing them.

[grass]

i'm happy with the way my box turned out but its not ported and i lost ALOT of sound, its just not loud like i want, its hits nice and tight, i had the subs firing up next time i put it back in (after paint) i'm gonna fire it towards the rear, maybe that'll help

[GrandAmSC/T]

yeah when you lose your ports you lose alot of bass as well. if you want it louder you gotta put ports in and that also includes building a bigger square foot box. looks like to me you got more of a sound quality box than a bass box. hmm... if you want it louder but you want more of the punchy tight bass look into getting a bigger amp, it will still sound much the same just louder. ive seen the kicker 1200.1 amps put to a single kicker 12l7 and do just great. i know the specs kicker puts out are way out of the ballpark of the wattage that the subs can really handle. Some of my friends at a stereo shop in Joplin put 3,000 watts to a kicker L7 10 trying to blow it but couldnt. my god did that thing pound though. i swear it sounded like 3 12's.

[embe]

Yeah, I'd fire it towards the rear. No sense putting that much work in a box and not be able to see the 'glas.

How does your car stench from all that bondo and stuf? lol;)

[grass]

my box was outside (its been really nice here so no rain or anyhting) for about a week and a half now, i didnt smell a thing!!!
thanx for all the tips guys, i'm looking into the JL 500/1

[SPL]

Originally posted by grass
http://www.sounddomain.com/id/grass1982

page 2 and 3

all comments / criticism welcome

I have one tip for you. You should sand threw the body filler and smooth out the glass . The body filler should only help you find low spots and fill some dips. If you leave a lot of body filler it will crack.

[grass]

thanx for that tip, them are what i'm looking for, parts of the box are smoothed down to the glass, can anyone help me design a ported 'glass box for 2 12" Solo barics?

i guess this box isnt what i was looking for, i'm looking for SPL not SQ (what can i say i'm a bass head :) )

[AmIGrand]

Do fire it backward, and PLEASE don't add the 15!!! No point mixing & matching, if you want that kinda bass, sell the 12's and get 2 15's!!!

And you know I'm willing to help you design the box, man - PM or e-mail me....

Lookin' good, BTW!! If it's still in progress, sand down and round off the edges where the glass meets the wood, so you don't have a hard corner there. Looks like it may be too late, though.... Looks great though! :thumbs:

[grass]

i just put it in my car to see how it would sound, its not what i want, i want loud rumbly bass, althought the bass i got from this was nice and tight, it hurt my heart when it hit (thats some hard bass)

[grandGTR]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
Do fire it backward, and PLEASE don't add the 15!!! No point mixing & matching, if you want that kinda bass, sell the 12's and get 2 15's!!!

And you know I'm willing to help you design the box, man - PM or e-mail me....

Lookin' good, BTW!! If it's still in progress, sand down and round off the edges where the glass meets the wood, so you don't have a hard corner there. Looks like it may be too late, though.... Looks great though! :thumbs:

if your goal is spl/bass who cares about mix and matching. lol. the more air you are moving the louder the bass.



i just put it in my car to see how it would sound, its not what i want, i want loud rumbly bass, althought the bass i got from this was nice and tight, it hurt my heart when it hit (thats some hard bass)


Soall that work and you are not even going to use it?
BTW where did you get your resen and glass from?

[grass]

i got my resin and glass from lowes

this is the second box i built and i may end up using it, i need a new amp first, right now both are underpowered and that could be why the bass i want is lacking with a sealed box, when powered correctly the bass may be back to what i want, also i'm gonna fill it with polyfill to make a "bigger box" or so what appears to be a bigger box

(the first box i built wouldnt fit in my car, damn tape measure was wrong :confused: :thumbs: :stupid:

[GrandAmSC/T]

Originally posted by grandGTR


if your goal is spl/bass who cares about mix and matching. lol. the more air you are moving the louder the bass.




Soall that work and you are not even going to use it?
BTW where did you get your resen and glass from?


NO you dont mix and match, you can!, but the work you have to go thru to make it work how its suppossed to is pointless. Just say with one size and do that size. 12s and 15s cancel out at diffrent places they both play diffrent notes and frankly it will sound like **** and it just makes it a big pain in the arse.

[AmIGrand]

It's not even a real technical issue, it's a matter of not being worth the hassle!!

I see a lot of people try to do like 2 10's and one 15 "I'll get the tight bass of the 10's and the boom of the 15!!"

It DOESN'T WORK THAT WAY!!! :lol:

Anyway, grass - the "bigger box" effect will make it tighter and less boomy, you'll be lowering your Q. You want to raise it. If you know approximately what airspace you have, pull the sub and layer the back wall with blocks of styrofoam to take up space, just glue 'em down. Go to the absolute minimum airspace recomended by Kicker, that should equate to a Q alaignment of 1.1 or so. That'll be louder and boomier.

:thumbs:

[grass]

w t f is a q?

[grandGTR]

Originally posted by GrandAmSC/T



NO you dont mix and match, you can!, but the work you have to go thru to make it work how its suppossed to is pointless. Just say with one size and do that size. 12s and 15s cancel out at diffrent places they both play diffrent notes and frankly it will sound like **** and it just makes it a big pain in the arse.


umm it does not really work that way... Look at it as not each size but an overall size. You get your spl from the movment of air. The more motors and masses moving that air the more your spl... Plus the force to move that much more. lol

But yes to boatin the best sound quality from your lows you do nto want to have different size woofers or different power levels to them.. Keep a matched power and size for best quality. But like I said I was talking about spl...

[grandGTR]

Oh ya if you want to run different size drivers the easiest way to give good sound and bass, is to place them in seperate air spaces. With our cars that is easy. you have yoru trunk and your cab. :) Plus never but them in the same box, unless it is a chambered box... You can tweek your crossovers too, this way each sub can play (an overlapped) frequency levels. Great way to utalize the effeciency of each driver too. :)

[grandGTR]

Originally posted by grass
w t f is a q?

Quality

[AmIGrand]

It's a measure of the sub/box as a circuit. The higher the Q, the "boomier" the bass, the lower the Q, the tighter. Higher Q also means louder. A Q of 1.1 is a Chebychev alignment, that's the "SPL" box recomended most of the time if they give different ones, it's boomy. A Q of .707 (My drunk a$$ doesn't remember the name right now) is considered my most to be the optimum balance - that's usually the recomended sealed enclosure from the factory. A .505 Q, also forget the name - is considered optimum SQ and best extension by many SQ fanatics.

This is an oversimplification, but you get the idea.

[pounder]

rear 6x9's blowing? weird..ive never had the problem, and im running 4 vega 12's off 1800 rms in the trunk..I do have a couple ports in the rear deack so i guess that relieves the pressure enough..i dont even use the 6x9's actually there just back there running off deck power for the rear passengers..not like they need it tho..but it helps

[GrandAmSC/T]

Originally posted by grandGTR



umm it does not really work that way... Look at it as not each size but an overall size. You get your spl from the movment of air. The more motors and masses moving that air the more your spl... Plus the force to move that much more. lol

But yes to boatin the best sound quality from your lows you do nto want to have different size woofers or different power levels to them.. Keep a matched power and size for best quality. But like I said I was talking about spl...

lol well ok your right for SPL. its all about moving air. But im sure he wants it to sound halfway decent so my advice is just to keep matched subs. so really the boy doesnt want Pure SPL he wants SPL with some SQ matched in. lol he just didnt know it. SQL is the term for it.

[GrandAmSC/T]

Originally posted by pounder
rear 6x9's blowing? weird..ive never had the problem, and im running 4 vega 12's off 1800 rms in the trunk..I do have a couple ports in the rear deack so i guess that relieves the pressure enough..i dont even use the 6x9's actually there just back there running off deck power for the rear passengers..not like they need it tho..but it helps

yeah ive seen this happen quite a bit. Id say your ports are relieving some pressure as well. what happens is the air pressure in the trunk pushes on the cone of the 6x9. The 6x9 is already moveing and has momentum with **** poor excursion being a factory speaker. well with the momentum and with that much air pressure pushing it, it either causes the speaker to distort and blow or just pushes the cone to its max excursion and blows the seal right out of it or cracks the seal.

[cavingman]

damnit. i thought this thread was gonna be porn. :(

[GrandAmSC/T]

lol sorry to disapoint you

[grandGTR]

Originally posted by cavingman
damnit. i thought this thread was gonna be porn. :(



LOL I am missing something there. :wave:

[grass]

k i was reading thru my posts again, i dont believe i ever mentioned adding a 15" sub, i was so confused by u guys talking bout missing / matching subs, i will always run the same size off the same power :)

[grandGTR]

see next post. oops, sorry. lol.

[kcitsGT]

Originally posted by AmIGrand
It's a measure of the sub/box as a circuit. The higher the Q, the "boomier" the bass, the lower the Q, the tighter. Higher Q also means louder. A Q of 1.1 is a Chebychev alignment, that's the "SPL" box recomended most of the time if they give different ones, it's boomy. A Q of .707 (My drunk a$$ doesn't remember the name right now) is considered my most to be the optimum balance - that's usually the recomended sealed enclosure from the factory. A .505 Q, also forget the name - is considered optimum SQ and best extension by many SQ fanatics.

This is an oversimplification, but you get the idea.

Yeah, I look at it like how hard is it to move the speaker. Q is total ratio of reactive to resistive energy (speaker, box, and everything). Qms is the Q of just your speakers suspension and Qes is the Q of just the voice coil. Qts is the total Q of the speaker alone(Qes+Qms).

The Q numbers AmIgrand is talking of are like targets to shoot for when designing a box. Lower Qts speakers work better in smaller boxes, because the tighter suspension of the small box raises the Q of the system as a whole. Where as free air speakers have a very high Qts and don't need a box at all.

I may be wrong, but that's how I look at it.

And ROTFLMAO, I'm with cavingman. Next time someone teases us with pics of their "box" I expect to see porn :D .

[grass]

hey now i'm a guy, i dont have a "Box" and i dont swing that way :)

[AmIGrand]

Um, now that I'm a moderator and all, I think I should probably ask you guys to cool off a bit with that.... ;)

[cavingman]

lol
sorry :D

[grass]

already on a power trip eh AIG :) hehe :tool:

[pounder]

Originally posted by GrandAmSC/T


yeah ive seen this happen quite a bit. Id say your ports are relieving some pressure as well. what happens is the air pressure in the trunk pushes on the cone of the 6x9. The 6x9 is already moveing and has momentum with **** poor excursion being a factory speaker. well with the momentum and with that much air pressure pushing it, it either causes the speaker to distort and blow or just pushes the cone to its max excursion and blows the seal right out of it or cracks the seal.

yeah ive heard of the distorting and even blowing the rear speakers..but just not in the grand am..i felt the rear seat let a ton of air through..being only fabric and spring..the occasions ive heard about usually happened in solid rear seat cars..the ones with the metal plate behind the seat..that way the pressure could build up..odd

[grass]

i went thru 3 sets of 6x9's (3 diff brands too) i had them hooked up to stock wires, then thru rcas and an amp, and yet they just keep blowing, i dont know what else my problem could be besides the pressure of the subs

[kcitsGT]

Try these -->BAFFLES (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-790) <-- Installed them on my 6x9's and they helped the sound of them alot. I had noticed how the spl affected them. For a pic of one installed, see my web site below. (www)
:thumbs: