Drl kit install day at my house! [Archive]

resevil83

04-25-2003, 01:42 AM

hey... mike, can you tell me where I would be going? If I were to hall out I'd want to go friday (tomorrow)... That is my free day. If it can work on such short notice that'd be really cool. I looked at the drl kit and I just kinda laughed because this surpasses my knowledge. I may be able to come saturday but I'd have to get up really early, or even next friday.

silentalero

04-25-2003, 10:11 AM

if u wanna come over, I got eerything u need to make good solid connections. pm me and ill give ya my cell if ya wanna do it sometime during the weekdays.

CaCathy13

04-25-2003, 10:20 AM

Dan,. Guru is having a mod day at his house later in May...you could wait until then. Mike has done his so he knows how to do it.

Actually, email Mike (mike@chicagograndam.com) and maybe he can help this weekend...just a thought

And why aren't you posting this on www.chicagograndam.com ?!

resevil83

04-25-2003, 11:27 AM

silentalero where do you live? closer than 2 hours im assuming? and have you done this before?

Cacathy... Ughhh well I will post this in that section... I'm not hip on the boards yet, I forget about them... I need this done though really soon... I want it done today, it'd be a perfect friday project.

silentalero

04-25-2003, 11:51 AM

na never did DRL kit, before, but lets say Im extrmemly expreinced in electrical work, so this is no prob, its only like 10 wires i think

and i live in alsip/oak lawn area

resevil83

04-25-2003, 11:59 AM

could u log on to aim please or something so I could talk to ya... I'd be really interested in makin a trip to get this done... And oak lawn doesnt seem too far away? ill look it up

check ur pm silent

Mikey's GT

04-25-2003, 12:02 PM

Lafayette, IN. 47905. Unfortunately, I am out of town this weekend, but would be happy to help next weekend.

The kit has 14 wires to cut and tap. Pretty easy, just watch the colors and directions CLOSELY.

-Mike

UNCTYPE-S

04-26-2003, 01:23 AM

i too, am awaiting my drl kit in the mail. i know a guy by me that is good with electrical stuff, so it will be cake work for him.

silentalero

04-26-2003, 04:34 PM

well just got done installing and was a breeze....for him,lol(considering I did 99% of the work, hehe) but yea they work great, but problem being now is the SVC light? Anybody know what it could be?

UNCTYPE-S

04-27-2003, 01:17 AM

svc? i thought it was svs. aah well, i thought the drl kit, doesnt make that light pop up. is that true?

Mikey's GT

04-27-2003, 09:21 PM

Originally posted by UNC0808
svc? i thought it was svs. aah well, i thought the drl kit, doesnt make that light pop up. is that true?

Yes, its an SVS light. Yes, the kit stops that from coming on. Its probably an installation error, that is 99.999% of all problems we see. Did you remember to bend over/cut off the correct pin on relay #22 under the hood?

-Mike

silentalero

04-28-2003, 01:24 AM

yea it was bent the indetical way the picture showed.

resevil83

04-28-2003, 03:37 PM

hey guys! I just wanna thank Mark for installing the kit for me... I ughh got REALLY sick later that day... and now I am still sick but it's cooling down, maybe because I slept around 20 hours straight. Anyways I get an svs light, but no worries... I think it could be like a misswire somewhere... Or weak crimp even though he did a good job crimping.. The kit works as it should I guess except for the svs light... As soon as I get better I'll check everything out... Thx guys...

Panacea

04-28-2003, 10:33 PM

Did you bend over the relay wire?

UNCTYPE-S

05-03-2003, 09:24 PM

whats the update, what happened? i just received my drl kit in the mail today and am looking to install it soon.

resevil83

05-04-2003, 12:37 PM

im healthy now, but I haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet. I will plan on it monday

silentalero

05-05-2003, 12:57 AM

ahhh and i just got back from carlisle, so if u wante me to help ya with it to see whats wrong lemme know n we'll check teh wiring

same with you UNC if ya want lemme know n we can put it in

resevil83

05-05-2003, 06:30 PM

as promised I actually went into my car and took out the glove compartment and... I slide out the bcm and look and wham a wire that had been clipped with one of those cool clippers wasn't plugged in... It was the red from the kit to orange 24 pink connector... And I plug it all back in and no svs! So now I have a completely functioning kit. THANKYOU SILENTALERO!!!

Mikey's GT

05-05-2003, 07:36 PM

Originally posted by resevil83
as promised I actually went into my car and took out the glove compartment and... I slide out the bcm and look and wham a wire that had been clipped with one of those cool clippers wasn't plugged in... It was the red from the kit to orange 24 pink connector... And I plug it all back in and no svs! So now I have a completely functioning kit. THANKYOU SILENTALERO!!!

Kinda funny, the one wire that didn't get connected is the power wire for the kit. Noting in the kit was getting +12v without the red wire!

-Mike

resevil83

05-05-2003, 11:49 PM

so... how did some of it work? It was just getting a lower voltage then? Just enough power for some things and not enough for all sorta deal?

silentalero

05-06-2003, 08:05 AM

haha, i told u i didnt like those damn conectors

Mikey's GT

05-06-2003, 10:01 AM

Originally posted by resevil83
so... how did some of it work? It was just getting a lower voltage then? Just enough power for some things and not enough for all sorta deal?

It was probably reverse-drawing just enough current to trip some of it.

-Mike

silentalero

05-06-2003, 11:15 AM

well those red tap connectors they give you are really crappy to be honest.....if you do it id recommend getting the extra stuff n crimping everything....it will give you a much better connection.

resevil83

05-06-2003, 11:23 AM

bah not those ones dude.... The wire that was disconnceted was the one that you do like. The ones where you splice the wire and you connect the t thing to it... Then on the other end from the kit they made you just plug their connection in. I dunno how it came loose or wasn't connected. But it was just that the one from the kits end wasn't plugged in. It was a two second fix. All the crimps were good. But yes the red tube connectors bahh :( they do need a crimping tool or else have fun! Thanks mark.

Mikey's GT

05-06-2003, 06:14 PM

I am at a loss to which connector it is you dislike. There are 3 used:

#1 - 3M T-taps, which are by far better than ScotchLocks.
#2 - Male spade connectors for the taps, can't really mess those up.
#3 - Everyday run-of-the-mill crimp barrel connectors. Unless you have the wrong type of crimpers, they are easy to use.

FYI, these are all industry standard connectors. 90% of car audio install shops around here use the exact same stuff we include. In fact, we ordered these through a friend at a shop here in town.

-Mike

silentalero

05-06-2003, 08:45 PM

#1 im assuming is the ones he had a problem with, becuase those are good but they also have a tendacy to slip out or unsnap
and for industrial crimping use, the barrles are top notch

Mikey's GT

05-06-2003, 09:14 PM

The T-Taps can be tricky. They have to be just so to make a good solid connection and stay snapped. It took me a while to get a good rhythm down to make all of them work without screwing one up. It pays off in the long run though, trust me. They are much more durable over time, and make a better electrical connection.

-Mike

resevil83

05-06-2003, 10:43 PM

should I re-go over everything and make sure all the connections didnt' slip when I was putting them back in? Or is the kit 100% is there a way I can tell? I mean there are so many wires... and I got no svs now and the kit works as it should. I really hate undoing it and looking at it all over... maybe on a sunny day- u know I just dont want to go over it if it aint broken, know what I mean?

silentalero

05-06-2003, 11:21 PM

use this theory:

don't fix what isnt broken.

fschambe

05-18-2003, 08:29 PM

Well, I installed it today... first when installing I saved the 87 bend on 22 for last, and I noticed that the DRL relay is ALWAYS live, as in the DRL's were on when the car was off. Next, I bend the 87 and then only the rt lamp is on, which I later saw the left was on but really dim same when high beams are on, still no SVS light. So I made a shunt in place of the 22 relay from 30 to 87a and both lights were fine, low and high BUT NOW THE SVS light comes on... What now? I checked all connections to make sure everything is snug. In the installation I noticed C1(B5) gets T'd to Green/White in kit, this goes to the DRL Relay coil [22] what is the purpose of this connection? Is the car side supposed to be clipped, preventing the DRL relay from switching?

mi2kga

05-18-2003, 08:43 PM

First off you cannot make a shunt, that will not work as the relay still needs to kick over, trust me. replace the relay with the bent over bin as directed. No, the connections are correct as shone on the diagram, hook this up exactly as shown. The only thing i recommend which fixes 99% of the problems is to make sure the t-taps all go in properly. If you look at the red spade that you slide on the tap itself it should be right in the middle so it can slide into the middle of the tap itself. Triple check this step as it is important... I would also hope that you didnt damage the bcm as the bending of the relay should have been done earlier in the installation asper the instructions!

Keep us posted!

Kent

Mikey's GT

05-18-2003, 08:58 PM

Originally posted by mi2kga
First off you cannot make a shunt, that will not work as the relay still needs to kick over, trust me. replace the relay with the bent over bin as directed. No, the connections are correct as shone on the diagram, hook this up exactly as shown. The only thing i recommend which fixes 99% of the problems is to make sure the t-taps all go in properly. If you look at the red spade that you slide on the tap itself it should be right in the middle so it can slide into the middle of the tap itself. Triple check this step as it is important... I would also hope that you didnt damage the bcm as the bending of the relay should have been done earlier in the installation asper the instructions!

Keep us posted!

Kent

You set yourself up for this one....

:stupid:

-Mike

Panacea

05-18-2003, 08:58 PM

From personal experience, if you have a problem, recheck your connections. I Don't mean recheck them once, and that's it... I mean recheck every single connection 3-5 times... There is always a wire or two that give you a problem that you'll overlook.

fschambe

05-18-2003, 09:30 PM

I still see no reason that the DRL kit should ALWAYS be burning up the DRL relay coil by keeping it powered.

iceman

05-18-2003, 09:33 PM

Becaue the BCM monitors the coil.. it has to be on. If it doesn't go ON, SVS. If the headlamps arent on when the coil is on (which is what the kit simulates) .. svs..

Mikey's GT

05-18-2003, 09:44 PM

Originally posted by fschambe
I still see no reason that the DRL kit should ALWAYS be burning up the DRL relay coil by keeping it powered.

Its no different than driving around during the day with DRLs.

Without the kit:

Coil on = DRLs on

With the kit:

Coil on = No DRLs

GM designed the car with the coil being powered up anytime during daylight. Having or not having the kit is immaterial...

-Mike

mi2kga

05-18-2003, 09:48 PM

we (mike kent seth) are sure about this point, we need to move on so we can correct the problem

kent

fschambe

05-18-2003, 10:23 PM

I meant, it's on even when the car is off. I remove the relay 22 and hear a click of the coil releasing from 87 on its way out. By having the coil engaged 24/7 it is preventing my left headlight from properly functioning.

mi2kga

05-18-2003, 11:48 PM

Please check the connection on the red wire from the kit attached to the orange wire at the bcm, i believe this is the key. Again, make sure that the terminal did not slip off to the side creating a poor connection

kent

fschambe

05-19-2003, 08:54 AM

Ok, i checked the crimps that are powering the unit... I am reading a nice +12 accross the red and the black/wt ground connector... Do you have any info for probing the crimps for proper operation? I have checked over all crimps. Next will be to gator clip before and after the crimps for continuity. Schematics would greatly help troubleshooting so I don't have to decompile the unit.

iceman

05-19-2003, 10:02 AM

You're not going to get schematics.. then that kind of defeats the whole purpose of them selling them..

Let's take a step back.. after checking all crimps, bending the pin and replacing the relay.. What happens:

-When you start the car
-When you put it in drive

Let me know with the DRL kit in both positions. You have to WAIT at least 15 seconds in each "state" and also at least a minute after switching the DRL kit switch - it's not instant.

let us know whath appens and we'll go for there.

fschambe

05-19-2003, 10:23 AM

last night I was doing the testing in the dark for the als to kick on the lights... when the car starts and the lts turn on to normal evening auto mode the pass side lite is fine the driver side lamp is really dim... same deal for the brights. the BCM notices an incorrect load and flips on the svs light. when the switch is flipped to 'other mode' for lack of description and the system has its rest time, start the car and no lights on no svs either.

ok pause big hmmmmmmmmm

pin 30 is reading infinite ohms to 87a AND 87 when out of car! I hope that's the problem!

off to parts counter!

fschambe

05-19-2003, 10:44 AM

Praise [insert person/item of worship] alleluja

I called parts and they didn't have a replacement relay so I popped it open and one of the contacts were crooked so a little fingering and now all is well... no svs no dim left headlight sorry no warranty for the kit I popped open looking for loose wires... 4 relays and some wires huh? don't worry I didn't get into tracing the internals yet but have you folks thought of sockets and micro relay's? they would cut the kit size down dramatically and if there were a faulty relay it could be swapped out easily... I could not imagine havine to cut the crimps off and mail back the whole thing... I greatly appreciate the time that went into producing this product... reminds me of when I was relaying wires to make an alternating brake-reverse light setup...

one more thing... is it a bug that the fogs flash with the parking lights when locking and unlocking doors? not a complaint I think it's cool

mi2kga

05-19-2003, 07:53 PM

Not a bug really just something that happened and there is really no reason that it should not (no real harm). We could prevent it but it would require more work. As for the design of the unit... we had considered other possibible circuit designs but they were not practical. If a relay were to fail there would be no problem replacing it, and we really have never had that problem. Thus far we have had an <1% product failer rate within the kit. The only pain was the first 30 switches we used (external to the kit) were sheeeet! We had about a 40% failer rate on those and we paid dearly for it and then switched vendors (pun intended).

Keep an eye out, you never know what else might come out, right SETH

Kent

fschambe

05-19-2003, 09:45 PM

i had a switch like that for an alarm system, it started moving any direction insead of just up amd down and you had to like mash it around to toggle it... So what do you think would get more interest, easier install or a cheaper kit? I was thinking about getting 18pin and 24 connectors to go inbetween car and bcm like some imports use for installing vafc's but they get around 150 for a harness like that...

mi2kga

05-19-2003, 10:26 PM

We are interested in both. :)

iceman

05-19-2003, 10:28 PM

Yes prototype plug and play DRL kit is coming soon hopefully.... stay tuned

UNCTYPE-S

06-01-2003, 01:20 PM

ok im trying to install this today. so far no svs light. which is good but heres the problem. my buddy and his buddy checked all the wires, colors, and connections, and they said they are fine. but what happens is when the car is on and the switch on the left of the steering wheel is set to off, the toggle switch only is allowing us to turn the foglights on and off. theres gotta be something wrong here obbviously, as it is not working.

silentalero

06-01-2003, 01:34 PM

remind you there is a delay for it to work when u hit the switch

UNCTYPE-S

06-01-2003, 04:07 PM

ok here is my updated problem with these.:rage: during the day, i can turn my drl's off or on with the switch fine. ok cool, the daytime works.

now as for the night, when the drl's are off for like 10 seconds, as soon as the nightime sensor gets ahold of the lights they go on and the toggle switch is useless, cause they wont turn on or off, they stay on.

so that is one problem

this is the other new occuring problem. when the car is off and i toggle the lights to go off, when i hit the lock button to lock my doors, the lights blink and the doors lock, but the horn doesnt chirp anymore when i lock the doors. it used to chirp when i locked them, but now its no longer doing this.

OMG what a process, and i emailed kent and mike like 3 hrs ago and still no reply. can anyone help me.

not to mention, i had 3 people who knew what they were doing all look at the connections, crimps, and colors and said they are all fine. even bent the pin over.

Mikey's GT

06-01-2003, 09:22 PM

OK Heres your problem. The toggle switch is not instantaneous. The BCM has a built in delay, so whenever you flip the switch, you need to give it 5-15 seconds for the BCM to react to the change.

At night, with the switch in position #1 (we will call this 'off' or 'normal'), the autoheadlamps work as normal, and the fogs are on anytime the parking lights or other lights are on.

Flip the switch to 'On' (position 2) at night will override the autoheadlamps, but the BCM will wait about 12-20 seconds before it makes the change. Flipping the switch also enables your foglights whenever the cars ignition is on.

At night, flipping the switch from 'On' to 'Off', will re-enable your autoheadlamps. The BCM waits 5-10 seconds to make this change.

In the daytime, the switch really won't do anything other than allow you to turn on your fogs without any other lights being on.

Your foglights flashing with the locks is normal. Since your fogs are now enabled with the parking lights, your fogs will flash anytime the parking lights flash (as long as the FOG switch is ON anyways).

As for the horn not chirping, I have no clue as of yet. Nothing you tap into has anything remotely tied to the horn. I will have to talk to Kent about that.

Try giving the BCM PLENTY of time to react. GM built the delays in to the software on board the BCM, so until I crack that, you are stuck with waiting for it to change modes!

-Mike