DCtoAC inverter install [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum


View Full Version : DCtoAC inverter install

09-16-2002, 10:15 AM
Does anyone have any tips/pics of his DC to AC inverter installation. Just bought one, and would greatly appreciate any tips, guideline to do a good job with mine :-) !! Thanks much.

09-16-2002, 10:24 AM
do a search i know Guru has one on his car

09-16-2002, 10:28 AM
i did a search and nothing came up...I remember seeing pics of gurus on the previous website ..
anyone else have guidelines, tips. Thx

09-16-2002, 12:47 PM
Check out pics of mine at www.n-body.net/registry/grandamguru

I'm not sure where you're looking to install it if you want something custom like mine or if you just want to leave it all as one unit.

If you want to go with the all in one unit, under the drivers seat is a good spot as well as in the trunk (requires more cable).

Let me know where in the car you're thinking about putting it and I'll give you some tips/pointers.

Mikey's GT
09-16-2002, 08:07 PM
I have mine remote mounted in the trunk, and switched in my panel in the cubby hole to the left of the steering wheel. I mounted outlets in 2 locations: one in the glovebox, and one in the rear, underneath the seatbelt return about 3 inches from the carpet. Very hard to notice, and look absolutely great. I can get pics if you would like. If you have any questions, you can email me as well.


09-16-2002, 08:38 PM
It installs just like an amp, battery power, ground. No RCA's or remote on, though, so it's pretty simple....

09-17-2002, 06:51 AM
Removing Center Console:
- Remove the trim ring around the stereo (just pulls right off).
- slide both seats all the way back to get access to the two bolts (or plugs depending on year of the car) that are located in the middle of the center console by the carpet.
- open the center console and remove the lid (makes it easier to work with).
- Remove the rubber "cup" at the bottom of the center console to access 2 bolts down there.
- Remove the front cup holders (in front of shifter) 2 screws.
- Remove a couple bolts that hold the center console to the dashboard (they'll be obvious when you remove the cup holders).
- pry up the trim ring around your shifter (carefully with a flat blade screwdriver)
- remove two bolts in front of lower center console by your feet (they have little caps over them)
- Center console should lift up and out (pull up parking break before lifting).

Powering Unit
- It is recommended that you run a dedicated 12 volt cable to your battery no smaller than 10-12 gauge for safety.
- Sebbie, per your PM you're looking to install the actual unit below the radio under the cubby. You can run a short ground wire over to one of the kick panels and drill a decent ground.

Mounting outlets
Before you mount the unit, you'll want to take it apart (end caps usually come off with a few screws) to get access to the outlets.
- cut the 3 wires going to each outlet (leaving enough room to solder extensions on).
- If you're remote mounting the switch, cut the wires for that as well.
- decide on a mounting location for your outlets making sure you have clearance behind the outlet for the leads (don't want to short out 110 volts). Use a dremel or a sharp utility knife to cut your outlet opening.
- With your holes cut, wire loom 3 wires (16 gauge) and route them from the inverter to the outlet location. Solder the wires to the leads on the inverter making sure to note what color went to what.
- make sure you leave some extra slack in the wires incase you need to move the center console.
- repeat the same steps for the switch.

Once all the leads have been extended, reinstall the center console and then do your final solders to the outlet itself.
- hot glue the outlets in place.
- mount your switch.
- make your battery connection.
- test your outlets.

- it is recommended that you relay isolate the 12volt lead from the battery making the inverter operational only when the vehicle is running (to avoid a dead battery). If you need help wiring up the relay, let us know.

This should get you on the right track. If you run into any problems, please let us know and we'll dop what we can to help you out.

09-17-2002, 09:41 AM
Whoooaaaa!! that is A response... Thanks much Guru !

Well, when you wrote: "it is recommended that you relay isolate the 12volt lead from the battery"
Yes I know I need help for that one...could you please explain me a little bit more and what parts need to be bought.
Again, thanks a bunch

09-17-2002, 01:15 PM
Pick up a 30amp 4 post relay from any autoparts store and some connectors. Take your 12v+ lead from the battery and cut it where you want to mount the relay. Put the side of the wire that connects to the battery to the 30 terminal on the relay. Put the other side of the 12volt lead (that goes to the power inverter) on the 87A terminal on the relay. Run a ground wire to the 85 terminal on the relay. Run a wire from the fuse box down to the relay and connect to the 85 terminal. Tie the other end of that wire into a 12 volt switched ciruit in the fuse box (radio, wipers, basically anything that is only active when the key is in the ignition).

The relay will then only allow the current to flow to the power inverter when the key is in the on/accessories posistion regardless of what the inverter switch is set to (that way you can't forget to turn off the inverter).

** Don't forget to put an inline fuse on the lead coming from the battery. **

09-22-2002, 04:46 PM
Sorry guys, I've been gone a few days. Good post Guru, thanx for the backup!! :thumbs:

09-22-2002, 05:22 PM
Well after reading this thread, I went on a mission to find my 750 watt power inverter that was slated for install in the 94 before I recked the front end. After searching through many boxes, I FOUND IT!
Vector 750 watt DC-AC inverter. 1500 watt peak. a little overkill, but only the best for my baby :D
Now to figure out where to hide this beast for the hardwiring.

09-23-2002, 05:38 PM
Here are the pics from the install I did today. I couldnt get a shot of the second plug i put in the trunk, my batterys kept dyin.

This is the switch and the plug on the passenger side. I put it there so my GF can use it when she brings her laptop on roadtrips and shiz.

Those wires are from my underbodys I keep forgetting to clean up (instead i just add more, lol).

09-23-2002, 05:39 PM
This is the inverter itself. It's under the passenger seat. ran all the wires underneath the carpet. look clean as hell except what you can see. I'm about to run to autozone for some loom :)

Mikey's GT
09-23-2002, 08:23 PM
Originally posted by cavingman
This is the inverter itself. It's under the passenger seat. ran all the wires underneath the carpet. look clean as hell except what you can see. I'm about to run to autozone for some loom :)

What size power wire is that? Looks a lil' small from the pic. I know at 600 watts, those puppies can draw 65 amps off your battery or alternator. Mine has its own 4ga run to it. Just wanted to make sure you have it adequately powered, it'll heat up 8 ga in a heartbeat at 750 watts....


09-23-2002, 08:35 PM
yea it's 8. I wasnt sure what to use. The package said 8 is adequate for the length im using. I dont think I'll ever plug in anything that will draw enough power to be worried about it though.
The trunk plug is gonna be used primarily for my PS2 when I get my new HU. the other will be other random stuff. I had my dreamcast and a lamp plugged in today, and I held onto the wires and nothing got warm for about 5 mins.
I dont know how I would get a 4 Ga wire onto a relay either :)

Mikey's GT
09-23-2002, 10:16 PM
Originally posted by cavingman
I dont know how I would get a 4 Ga wire onto a relay either :)

Hehe, you don't! 30 amp relay for 70 amps of current? You just relocate the inverter's power switch. I just wanted to make sure you wouldn't run into problems down the line. I have used mine heavily for power tools (*Tim Allen grunt*) and other stuff.
I have even used it a couple times when we lost power during a storm to turn on my TV and a light to kill the time, or my cable modem/router/computer/monitor so I can check out gagt.com! A 50' orange extension cord from your house to your car does look odd, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. (Make sure to start the car if you draw close to the units max rating, as it will drain the battery quick, and its bad to deep cycle a standard lead acid battery)


PS - Hi, my name is Mike, and I am addicted to grandamgt.com (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum)

04-11-2003, 09:48 AM
What type of inline fuse do I use?

04-11-2003, 12:11 PM
AGU glass type is easiest/most common, any car audio shop will have both the waterproof holder and the fuses for $10 or $15 total. :thumbs: