How-To: Change colors of Lock, Window, and ETS buttons

[iceman]

This is my take on this mod.. yeah there are probably other ways but this is how I did it

Materials Needed

2 - 5 mm LED's of your choice
3 - 3 MM LED's of your choice
Flathead screwdriver
Needlenose pliers
Resistors for each LED - rating depends what LEDs you buy
Standard electrical install tools (wire cutters, strippers, crimpers, soldering iron, crimp

connectors, etc...)
Dremel (optional)
2 Beers (no time for a whole 6 pack)

*I take no responsibility for your actions or anything you do to your car*

This is a pretty simple process - just replacing some incandescent bulbs w/ LEDs. If you find

your LEDs are not providing a wide enough angle light, you can always use a dremel to flatten

out the top of the LED to spread the light out more.


*Note - These pics are from a 4 door window panel. The 2 door is slightly similar but the

theory and general process is the same. This thread has an alternate method described (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20462&highlight=window+and+circuit)

Remove driver's side trim panel that contains mirror, window, lock controls.
Separate window switch from trim panel, plastic tabs holding it on each side, it will look like this:

[iceman]

There are 2 plastic tabs on the short side (see tophalf of pic), using a flathead screwdriver, separate the plastic cover so it looks like the bottom half pic.

[iceman]

Bend back the connectors exposing the circuit board below them (see pic). There are several locations where pins are twisted to hold down the circuit board (marked in red circles on pic). With needlenose pliers, straighten out the twisted pins so that they will be able to travel through the opening they stick out of.

[iceman]

Once all these pins are straightened out, the circuit board will lift right out. You will see an orange circle below that houses the light bulb (in a red circle). Using a flat head, rotate counterclockwise to get the bulb out.

[iceman]

Yank out the old bulb out of the orange housing, and replace it with a 5mm LED. Depending on the LEDs you purchased, you may have to dremel the base of the led just a tad for it to fit just like the old bulb - but it *will* fit perfectly. Wrap the LED leads around back of the orange piece and trim to length. Sand down tip of LED with dremel now if you wish. Make note of which is the positive lead on the LED (longer lead).

It is important that your LED is facing straight out of the orange holder - if it is at any sort of angle, the light will not hit the ligh pipes inside the window switch correctly and the light won't make it to the actual switches.

Here are some pics of the orange housing, yes out of focus but you get the point.

[iceman]

Reinstall the bulb back where it belongs. Don't worry if the orange piece does not twist all the way clockwise - it will still make contact.

Marked here is the side that your positive LED should be on.

[iceman]

Once that is back, reverse everything you did before and reinstall. Install proper resistor on GRAY wire going to window switch. There will most likely be TWO gray wires going to the same pin on the window switch harness. Make sure only 1 wire ends up going to the actual window switch after it leaves the resistor (see pic for clarification). The two gray wires should be joined pre-resistor.

Tape/heatshrink/whatever your connections so they don't short.Also in this pic is the resistor in place for the driver's side lock button.

You can either solder (shown) or use butt connectors to get the resistor in line there.

[iceman]

Lock buttons

Separate the trim panel from the door. Take out the plug on the back of the switch to expose the light for this switch, it is the little red plastic piece hidden by the wire harness. Use a flathead screwdriver and turn the red piece counter clockwise to get the bulb out.

[iceman]

Yank out the stock bulb, replace with 3mm LED. Again, use a dremmel to trim the base of the LED to fit if you have to, and also to sand down the tip of the LED to spread the light out if you want.

Here's a pic of a 3mm LED in the red piece, almost completely installed. Make sure it is pointing straight up from the base of the red holder.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267005

The positive LED lead needs to be on the left hand side of this pic below.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267003

[iceman]

Install resistors in line as shown on GRAY wire going to plug. ake sure only 1 wire ends up going to the actual window switch after it leaves the resistor (see pic for clarification). The two gray wires should be joined pre-resistor. Tape/heatshrink/whatever your connections so they don't short. Also in this pic is the resistor in place for the passenger side window button.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267006

[iceman]

Passenger side window button

Almost identical to the lock buttons - see pics above for resistor installed in line and how to change the bulb to an LED. For the
positive LED lead - look at the pic a few above about the orientation of the LED w/ the lock button - it is to the left, on the side with the retainer clip for the plug.


ETS Button

Remove center trim piece from dash.
Remove 3 bolts holding on ETS & hazard button from trim piece, and then take the ets button out of the plastic piece.
Pic of ETS button separated:

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267008

[iceman]

Separate green piece from rest of switch as shown.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267009




This will expose the stock bulb & Condom... rip it out / desolder.

[iceman]

Look inside the ETS button housing, there is a piece of plastic we will need to remove so that when you push your ETS button, you have no chance of hitting the solder connections you are about to make.. One the left is the before, on the right is after.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267010

[tyger25]

Excellent info! Good pics. Thanks!

[iceman]

This housing will fit the resistor and LED inside, so there is no need to put the resistor on the gray dimmer wire going to the switch. Mount your 5MM led at the top of the "tube" where the stock bulb was. Sand down tip of LED if you want. Solder negative to pin where stock bulb was connected to (bottom pin below) and solder LED to resistor to top pin pictured below.
Make sure the LED is pointing straight out of the "tube."

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=267012



Alternate method w/out resistor inside housing : install LED inside w/ out resistor, and connect reisistor inline to gray wire on harness going to ETS button.


Reassemble ETS button, and that's it.

:cheers:

[iceman]

And the finished products:

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=110985

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=121328

[lightningGA]

awesome how to Seth......your the man when it come's to this stuff :thumbs:

[CyberRad]

I had a question, Seth, about the resistors that I never could quite get with another project I was working on. How do you know what strength of resistance to get? Example: I have a 5mm, 5 volt with 20ma what strength of resistor should I get and how do you know? This isn't just for my benefit it is for others too.

Thanks alot bud.

[lightningGA]

Originally posted by CyberRad
I had a question, Seth, about the resistors that I never could quite get with another project I was working on. How do you know what strength of resistance to get? Example: I have a 5mm, 5 volt with 20ma what strength of resistor should I get and how do you know? This isn't just for my benefit it is for others too.

Thanks alot bud.

Seth has posted this before so I'll jump in here..........check out this site http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/led.htm for a LED calculator that should give you all the info needed:thumbs:

[CyberRad]

Thanks alot

[lightningGA]

Originally posted by CyberRad
Thanks alot

no prob bro:cheers: :thumbs:

[TheWolverine]

..and people wonder why I don't do complex mods ;) Anyone wanna do this FOR me? :angel

[iceman]

^^ It's not that hard at all :)

Thanks for linking that LED calculator, I should have done that.

Places to get LEDs:

www.lsdiodes.com
www.oznium.com
www.superbrightleds.com

All of the specifications of the LEDs you need to calculate resistor value will be available on those sites.

More LED info is all over these forums

[StephenM]

Is tehre a way to clear the controls for the windows and locks like you can the hvac knobs? I think it would look sweet if the whole control lighted up red as opposed to just the little bar on top.

[iceman]

Yes, magyver did it and posted here. search.

[Kodeblue]

I think I might try this mod. I have no clue in understanding the voltage and what not for LED's and resistors. To make it easier what would a good size LED and resistor be?

[CyberRad]

Originally posted by iceman
This is my take on this mod.. yeah there are probably other ways but this is how I did it

Materials Needed

2 - 5 mm LED's of your choice
3 - 3 MM LED's of your choice
Flathead screwdriver
Needlenose pliers
Resistors for each LED - rating depends what LEDs you buy
Standard electrical install tools (wire cutters, strippers, crimpers, soldering iron, crimp

connectors, etc...)
Dremel (optional)
2 Beers (no time for a whole 6 pack)

*I take no responsibility for your actions or anything you do to your car*

This is a pretty simple process - just replacing some incandescent bulbs w/ LEDs. If you find

your LEDs are not providing a wide enough angle light, you can always use a dremel to flatten

out the top of the LED to spread the light out more.


*Note - These pics are from a 4 door window panel. The 2 door is slightly similar but the

theory and general process is the same. This thread has an alternate method described (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20462&highlight=window+and+circuit)

Remove driver's side trim panel that contains mirror, window, lock controls.
Separate window switch from trim panel, plastic tabs holding it on each side, it will look like this:
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=266993
Originally posted by CyberRad
I had a question, Seth, about the resistors that I never could quite get with another project I was working on. How do you know what strength of resistance to get? Example: I have a 5mm, 5 volt with 20ma what strength of resistor should I get and how do you know? This isn't just for my benefit it is for others too.

Thanks alot bud.
Originally posted by lightningGA
Seth has posted this before so I'll jump in here..........check out this site http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/led.htm for a LED calculator that should give you all the info needed:thumbs:
Here is the info you are looking for that I have found for you in this same thread! *repost* *repost* *repost*

[iceman]

^good lookin out :cheers:

[Marksman]

Well my LEDs are ordered, I'll post pics when I get this done!
-Marksman

[fraws]

Iceman...

Would you give me a price if I were to send the parts to you. Pay for shipping both ways and all parts plus your labor. Think about it and let me know... If not if someone wants to give me a price to dubilcate this project please let me know?

- Thanks Again -

[iceman]

sorry not until late Dec, I'm tryin to graduate college and move again so no time

[Marksman]

What should be done if the LED/holder is tough to twist back into place? Do I need to shave the base down a little more?
Thanks
-Marksman

[iceman]

It won't twist back all the way but as long as the connections are being made at the base of the led.. no problemo. the plug will hold the led in.

[Kodeblue]

I am doing this mod now and noticed that there is only one gray wire on the driver's side lock switch. I assume that is correct and there is not supposed to be two wires?

[Marksman]

You're correct. I only had one wire on all mine.
-Marksman

[Kodeblue]

Thanks bud. I haven't really done much yet other then that one LED. I just tested it by wrapping the wire around the resistor without soldering it to see if it works and I have nothing. NO bif deal because I can't do much until I get my soldering iron from my brother's tomorrow. Nice to see so many helpful people here to by the way.:wave:

[Marksman]

Yeah, as long as you have the correct resistors it will work. Make good connections and be 100% sure of your polarity when you install the LED. I used a sharpe to mark the positive side when I was cutting and fitting the LED to fit the holder. Also make sure you fold and shave down the electrodes of the LED so they're smooth with the side of the holder. The top and bottum dont matter as much. If the sides are smooth it will fit right in.

[iceman]

Post pics when you guys are done :cheers:

[Kodeblue]

Well. I ran into a problem. I got the driver's side done and now the driver's side window will not go up or down. Is it possible I screwed it up or something, please say no, lol. ANyways, I got one pic before my battery went dead and it is with the lights off. I will try and get one with the lights on shortly.

http://invis.free.anonymizer.com/http://www.freewebs.com/silverbullet00/clear%20switch.JPG

[awaadster3]

sry to bring this back from the dead. i followed the instructions, but the led turn on for a second, then never turn back on. I am using oznium led's and resistors. Instead of cutting the wire,and soldering the resistor, i just spliced the resistor to the wire.

can that be my problem?

[pyro]

yes

[Sprucegagt]

sry to bring this back from the dead. i followed the instructions, but the led turn on for a second, then never turn back on. I am using oznium led's and resistors. Instead of cutting the wire,and soldering the resistor, i just spliced the resistor to the wire.

can that be my problem?

Yes! Buy splicing the connection in you put it in parallel with the 12 Volt DC input instead of in series. Basicly you back fed the LED 12 Volts because you didn't cut the wire. So instead of all the voltage being routed to the resistor first, you allowed a back entrance through the cathode (-) side for 12 volts to be directly applied to the LED. That's why it lit for a second then died, because you fried the LED.

Also for this mod. Soldering makes for a way neater job than doing splicing. Plus it will last longer.

[awaadster3]

thanks! i knew i shouldn't be a bum and soldered it. So basically those Led's are no good anymore, i have to replace them.

[gectek]

how much brighter are those 3mm leds than the stock lights?

[pyro]

thanks! i knew i shouldn't be a bum and soldered it. So basically those Led's are no good anymore, i have to replace them.

yep

[saintg]

this mod looks pretty cool i got all my parts and stuff so i should be getting to it hopefully this weekend just tryna get a hold of a dremmel or think of a similar tool instead of getting a dremmel. this is my first time messin with LEDs and soldering so hopefully itll be easy

[iceman]

Update, some LED bulbs now available to do the lock/window switches
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1003497#post1003497