View Full Version : Blower Resistor
01-26-2004, 10:38 AM
All right...I had to change the blower resistor because of the 1 & 2 fan position not working. I get under there and start tearing into it because the guy at the dealer said it was a 20 min. job...it would have been except i ran into one problem.
as soon as you get the panel piece off the instructions said to remove the fan which is held in by 3 small screws...that would have been fine, but unfortunately GM engineers decided to mount some "delco electronics" black box under there. there was no visible way to detach the box from under the dash and the box is covering one of the fan screws...needless to say i had to bypass taking the fan out and break my fingers into fifty pieces just to get my hands to where i could remove the resistor.
can someone tell me what that black box is and how to remove it if i have to replace the resistor again...i've heard its a common problem.
01-26-2004, 10:49 AM
That's the BCM - slide it to the side and it will come out of its little bracket.
01-26-2004, 10:54 AM
Blower Motor Resistor (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=1134)
Leave that black box (BCM) alone that is underneath your glove box!
You DO NOT need to take out your blower motor fan to replace the blower motor fan resistor circuit board.
Use a 7mm socket to take-off the plastic cover underneather the glove box.
Use a 7/32" socket with a 1/4" universal swivel joint adaptor to get the 2-screws that hold the resistor board in place.
The resistor board is at the farther point to the front where the firewall is (behind the fan blower motor).
Dis-connect the plug harness to the circuit board to the fan blower motor.
Take the 2-screws that are holding the resistor board in.
Replace board & put everything back together.
I hope you have small fingers & are flexiable.
01-26-2004, 11:17 AM
i already replaced the resistor...i didn't have a 1/4" drive universal...all i had was a little 1/4" drive breaker bar (damn ratchet wouldn't even fit)...you can imagine how that went (turn, pull off, back on, turn, pull off, back on, turn.....aaaahhhh!!)... definitely going to sears for a universal.
01-26-2004, 11:27 AM
Sounds like you had a worse time then me replacing it.
Yeah, the 1/4" universal swiveling joint adaptor is a must to reach in there.
01-27-2004, 09:04 AM
Yep, I used the universal as well, saved alot of headache. At least you know for next time, and you still don't have to bother with the BCM or the Blower Motor.
04-09-2004, 04:41 PM
I feel like there should be a club for people who managed to make the replacement without a universal.
What kind of sadistic bastard would design this type of mount for the piece?
I ended up using the retention brackets that came with a set of Ace Hardware torque heads. (The little clip things that you stick the heads on when they're not being used)
I was so ecstatic when the rear screw finally dropped out that I clicked a picture, which I'll spare you guys. I did have a pictorally based question, however...
Here's a snap of the old resistor board, and the new resistor board. You'll have to guess which is which. Should the different dimensions be a problem? I noticed these little bastards get very hot, and I don't need any more fire hazards in my life.
(edit: 9megs, eh? I'm upping the pic of the screw anyways!)
04-10-2004, 12:15 PM
When I replaced mine, the new one was longer than the old one. It fit so I didn't worry about it. It is still working fine. FYI
04-12-2004, 08:32 AM
It will fit fine.
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