View Full Version : How often should I replace the fuel filter?
My fiancee took her car to get her oil changed and they said the fuel filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles. Is that right? I've never heard of that.
AleroME
08-27-2002, 02:26 PM
the recommendation change is every 15,000 miles... for my alero i waited for 30,000. Also i had my injectors and throttle/intake de-carb too.
sunrunner_pei
08-27-2002, 02:27 PM
I replace mine once/year. It's a simple job and an inexpensive part.
mfuller
08-27-2002, 02:29 PM
Originally posted by SL_
My fiancee took her car to get her oil changed and they said the fuel filter should be replaced every 15,000 miles. Is that right? I've never heard of that.
Most experts recommend that you change fuel filters around 30,000 miles.
Thanks all! :thumbs:
If it's easy, is there a how-to somewhere? Can someone give me some advice?
This is for a 98 Grand Am SE 4-door.
You could pick up a Hayne's manual. Aside from being a little messy, it should be easy, but some people have wrote about problems with the clips breaking while trying to take them off. I think there is a tool that the dealerships have... can you buy this at an autoparts store? Anyone want to comment on difficulty getting the thing off?
I will probably do mine this fall...
I would think 30,000 is fine as long as you are not using no-name dirty brands, and running cleaner through there once in awhile.
where is it on a 2000 2.4L and whats the replacement?
FYI - I just looked at the Haynes Manual and they say to replace the Fuel Filter every 2 years or 30,000 miles.
Our Owners manuals don't even list it as scheduled maintenance.
After reading what the Haynes manual has to say, I have a couple questions...
They say to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before changing the fuel filter, and also mention that if the car has theftlock, to turn off the "lockout" feature because you are disconnecting the battery.
Are these steps really needed?
On a side note... has anyone ever backed up onto Rhino Ramps? Is there enough clearance in the back? Will the front (being angled downwards) scrape? I don't have jack stands... just ramps.
action
08-28-2002, 11:50 AM
Fuel filter locted under rear end of car next to spare tire well. Use a small flat top screwdriver to open up the plastic clip then push green part straight up and that side will slide out. Two wrenches are required for the other side.
I replace mine once a year.
Originally posted by VaGT
After reading what the Haynes manual has to say, I have a couple questions...
They say to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before changing the fuel filter, and also mention that if the car has theftlock, to turn off the "lockout" feature because you are disconnecting the battery.
Are these steps really needed?
Oh, yea, I've got a Haynes for my Alero...
Safety reasons. Don't want any sparks flying! As for the theftlock, for my Alero at least, as long as you know the code to unlock it, you'll be fine.
zeddsdead
08-28-2002, 12:26 PM
mine was very difficult to remove....i followed all the great instructions lots of people posted but guess what...clips broke anyway...i tried the needle nose pliers technique...i tried pushing in and twisting, i tried pulling straight out, i tried pushing in the clip in as far as i could, supposedly it comes popping right out...but in the end...2 broken tabs convinced me to drive over to pepboys...guess what the dude had a hell of a time too...i was waiting for 45 mins....but they did finally change it. and i was out just 20 bills...i got to browse around the store and pick up some goodies. ill tackle it again soon though...hope the new tabs are easier than the last to work with.
sunrunner_pei
08-28-2002, 02:03 PM
After changing mine again last month, I found that a pair of wire strippers works best to push back the clip. Yes, I said wire strippers. Use them to pry the clip gently away from the filter, then pull the filter out. Voila!
...I struggled with a pair of needle-nose pliers for 40 minutes before seaching the work benchb for something else, and this time the filter came off with my first attempt!
Which part of the wire strippers... the end pliers part or the wire stripping part?
May I ask why do you have to disconnect your battery. I hate disconnecting mine because my alarm goes off everytime.
ok I found the filter. WHen I take the nut off and then the clip is fuel going to pour out? I know the system is underpressure. Is there any thing I have to do to relieve is or does it have some kind of valve to stop the flow when you change it?
sunrunner_pei
08-28-2002, 05:47 PM
Originally posted by VaGT
Which part of the wire strippers... the end pliers part or the wire stripping part?
I used the wire stripper part. Don't squeeze on the fuel line though. Just use them to pry the clip away from the filter.
sunrunner_pei
08-28-2002, 05:51 PM
Originally posted by Doug
ok I found the filter. WHen I take the nut off and then the clip is fuel going to pour out? I know the system is underpressure. Is there any thing I have to do to relieve is or does it have some kind of valve to stop the flow when you change it?
There is no need for a shutoff valve... There will be some fuel spillage, but it won't spray fuel or anything like that. Just have a pan ready to catch any dropping fuel, and make sure the car has cooled down completely before attempting the swap, as the exhaust pipe is close to the filter. Undo the "nut" end first, then let the filter drain. Then take off the other side.
If any of this seems too complicated, or you're in any way uncomfortable with it, any mecahanic or dealership should change the filter for a reasonable rate. (No more than $20)
nah I'll do it. Just wanna make sure its not going to spray fuel across my garage :)
First of all, the Haynes manual says to press the _white_ quick release... It's not white! It's black!
Ok, so I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one off.
The black plastic clip: Should I be squeezing the end closer to the fuel filter? Should it be pressed/moved closer to the fuel filter? Or away? Do I pry the tabs up (therefore forcing the end closest to the filter down)? Does the clip come off with the filter or with the fuel line? While squeezing the clip, should I pull on the fuel line or the filter?
Getting close to taking it to the shop! Ugh! HELP!
Magnum
08-28-2002, 06:58 PM
the '01+ use a different method to release the fuel filter than '99 and '00. As someone previously stated, a green clip. the only tool needed to release this type of clip is a screwdriver, and you could probably get by without one. It makes changing the filter an easy two-minute job.
Originally posted by Magnum
the '01+ use a different method to release the fuel filter than '99 and '00. As someone previously stated, a green clip. the only tool needed to release this type of clip is a screwdriver, and you could probably get by without one. It makes changing the filter an easy two-minute job.
That is good news for me... only thing is that the Haynes Manual I have is for the 99-00 GA's since I could not find one for the 2001's when I first bought my GA. Have they updated the book for the 2001 info, or is that section the same? Other than the different clip, is the rest the same? Could you give a more complete set of instructions?
Without actually going out and looking for the thing in the rain, do you have to jack the car up to get to it, or is it an easy no jack job?
Some info from the Haynes manual:
To disable Theftlock:
"Press the Stereo's 1 and 4 buttons at the same time for five seconds with the ignition on and the radio power off. The display will show SEC, indicating the unit is in the secure mode (anti-theft feature enabled).
Press the MN button. The display will show "000".
Press the MN button until the last two numbers are the same as your scret code.
Press HR until the first one or two numbers displayed match your code. The numbers will be displayed as entered.
Press AM/FM. If the display shows "---" you have successfully disabled the anti-theft feature. If SEC is displayed, the code you entered was incorrect and the anti-theft feature is still enabled.
To unlock the stereo:
When the power is restored to the stereo, the stereo won't turn on and LOC will appear on the display. Enter your ID code as follows: Pause no more than 15 seconds between steps.
Turn the ignition switch to ON, but leave the stereo off.
Press the MN button. "000" should display.
Press the HR button to make the last to numbers match your code then release the button.
Press the HR button until the first one or two numbers match your code.
Press AM/FM. SEC should appear indicating that the stereo is unlocked. If LOC appears, the numbers you entered were incorrect and the stereo is still inoperative.
ONE QUESTION... where do you get the code???????????
To relieve the fuel pressure, it simply says...
V6:
"Locate the test port on the fuel rail. Remove the cap and connect a fuel pressure guage, equipped with a bleed off valve and drain tube, to the test port. Relieve the pressure by bleeding the fuel through the bleed-off valve and into an approved fuel container."
Hmmm... my friend's Taures has a switch in the trunk area...
What is the purpose of the fuel pressure guage? When it stops flowing the pressure has been relieved.
Magnum
08-29-2002, 09:23 AM
okay, I'm not the best at explaining things, but here goes: '01+ models...
1. no jack/ramps necessary if you're scrawny, but there's no way in hell I fit under there without ramps. get it on ramps.
2. no need to worry about theftlock, there are no codes involved in 01+. the radio stores your VIN and compares it to the VIN stored in the PCM.
3. disconnect the battery.... I never bothered to.
4. the pressure release valve is on the fuel rail, in front of the alternator. it looks just like a valve stem for a tire. unscrew the black cap, you'll see the "button". stick a rag under the valve, and press the "button" with a screwdriver or something. and ounce or two of fuel will squirt out.
5. I open the gas cap to release pressure that may be in the tank. optional step.
6. get under the rear end (of the car) bring a flat screwdriver, (like a precision-tool sized one), 2 wrenches - 5/8" and 7/8" I think, and some rags. the fuel filter, as mentioned before, is in front of the spare tire well. If you can't find it, you suck. 'Fuel in' is the p***enger side of the car, you'll see a rubber hose with a black rubber sleeve on the end connect to the filter. 'Fuel out' is the other side (duh) of the filter, with a steel line connected to the filter.
7. with the wrenches, undo the 'fuel out' side first. this makes it easier to get to the green clip on the 'fuel in' side. with the steel line released, point the filter down, into the rags. a few cups of fuel will spill out. Try not to get any in your armpit. (hurts like a biotch!)
8. take a look at the black sleeve - there's a green clip that slides through the sleeve sideways, anchoring the shaft of the filter. with the screwdriver, open the "door" on the front of the clip (damn, I wish I had pictures to explain this!) You'll see the shaft of the filter inside the black sleeve. with the screwdriver, push the green "tabs" that are showing on either side of silver filter shaft. The clip will slide out the back of the sleeve, and the filter is released! Installation is reverse of removal.
that's it. If anyone has pictures of this process, post 'em!
Magnum
08-29-2002, 09:26 AM
p***enger
p***enger
p***enger
hehehe
Ok, but how 'bout someone doing an explaination for 98's and 99's?
p***enger... hehe
CDW00GT
08-29-2002, 10:45 AM
I like to change my fuel filter about once a year. All gas station's tanks are not clean and you would be suprized how dirty they can be. Plus it helps the fuel pump last longer by having a clean filter because a dirty filter puts a restriction on the fuel system and makes the pump work harder and can make it burn out sooner than normal.
For 99-00, the haynes manual says this...
Twist the two lines a quarter turn in opposite directions tto loosen the fitting. Depress thw white plastic quick-disconnect tabs and detatch the inlet line from the fuel filter. (gas will spill out)
Use an open end wrench to steady the outlet side of the filter and a flare nut wrench to unscrew the fuel line nut, then seperate the outlet line from the filter while noting the installed position of the O-Ring. Detach the fuel filter mounting bracket bolt and remove the fuel filter.
Originally posted by Magnum
1. no jack/ramps necessary if you're scrawny, but there's no way in hell I fit under there without ramps. get it on ramps.
Backing up on the ramps or foward (front wheels or back)?
If you are backing up, I assume the front end has enough clearance since it will be angled downwards?
I need to do this soon, and would much rather do it myself because once I figure it out, I can do it more often without having to worry about taking it somewhere.
Magnum
08-29-2002, 11:58 AM
back it up on the ramps. (rear wheels raised). I have more than enough clearance on the front end with the back end raised.
OK, thanks for the help. I think I may do it this weekend, write down the steps, take pictures, and then send it over to N-Body.net so they can post it in their tech help section... since they don't have anything about fuel filters yet.
So from reading the tips, it seems pretty idiot proof.. meaning it becomes obvious once you take a good look at it?
OK, here's a question...
What is the prefered brand of fuel filters? Should I just swing by the dealer and pick up an ACDelco? I'll stay away from Fram...
sunrunner_pei
08-29-2002, 02:34 PM
I just used an AC Delco for mine.
Where did you get your ACDelco Fuel filter? I can't find any local places that carry them. The best I could do (Non Fram) was a Purolator from Pep Boys for $12. The dealer wants $20 for the ACDelco.
I also asked what they wanted to put them in... he said.. $65!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
He claimed there is a special tool that is highly reccomended, and he also added that he had a guy come in who had busted his fuel line trying to remove the clip (was not a GA though). What are the odds of this happening on a 2001?
Drew99GT
08-30-2002, 11:04 AM
On my 99, all you have to do to remove it is grasp the two white plasitc clips with index and middle finger (so the snout of the filter goes between your fingers), and pull towards the filter while slightly squeezing on the clip part. It snaps right out, takes all of 2 seconds. Then you just remove the fitting on the opposite side with box wrenches.
Originally posted by Drew99GT
On my 99, all you have to do to remove it is grasp the two white plasitc clips with index and middle finger (so the snout of the filter goes between your fingers), and pull towards the filter while slightly squeezing on the clip part. It snaps right out, takes all of 2 seconds. Then you just remove the fitting on the opposite side with box wrenches.
The new filters have the white clips, but the OEM clips are black with 4 sides.
Does anyone know what to do with the black clips?
sunrunner_pei
08-30-2002, 11:31 AM
Originally posted by SL_
The new filters have the white clips, but the OEM clips are black with 4 sides.
Does anyone know what to do with the black clips?
If you read back through this thread, you will see that I posted how to do it, and what tool you can use. I've done it twice now with mine.
iceman
08-30-2002, 11:31 AM
What is wrong with fram filters????
I stay away from Fram because of their **** poor oil filters. The same **** poor quality is bound to be in their fuel filters.
Fram is the worst oil filter you can buy.
Jeremy
08-30-2002, 12:08 PM
Just an FYI for you guys with 01+'s with Monsoon systems. You don't have to worry about the theft code. The code is part of your VIN and the PCM talks to the radio to unlock it. People without the Monsoon system will have to remember their codes. If you don't remember it and end up locking it, you have to take it to a dealership to have it unlocked. There is no "magic" universal unlock code.
iceman
08-30-2002, 12:27 PM
Originally posted by VaGT
I stay away from Fram because of their **** poor oil filters. The same **** poor quality is bound to be in their fuel filters.
Fram is the worst oil filter you can buy.
Says who?? I've never had a problem..
I'll try to find you the link, but basically, there was a study that showed about 30 fiilters torn apart. The quality of the Fram was very subpar allowing dirty oil back into the system etc.
Just go by common sense. Fram is pretty much the cheapest you can buy, and it floods the shelves of stores like Walmart. You get what you pay for...
Found it..
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
I don't think this is the only one, but it is one of them.
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. These filters are manufactured by Allied Signal, Inc. Please do not buy these filters. By boycotting it, we may be able to cause some change. I have personally had one if these filters fail and actually cause engine damage due to bits of paper and glue floating around in the engine.
For some inside dirt on Fram filters, see this email from an Allied Signal production engineer.
Fram Extra Guard PH8A
This filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time, but they often leak anyway. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow, and is made of thin material.
The telltale signs for a Fram Extra Guard are: It has 8 small holes for the oil inlet and a thin, cheap-looking backplate, and is currently stamped with a “2Y”. There are 5 very small crimps holding the gasket in place. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of “button” in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
Fram Tough Guard TG8A
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. Aside from the filter cartridge, it is a very good design. Too bad Fram can’t get passed the cardboard end caps.
It has an improved filter element with more surface area (248 sqin), a heavy silicone anti-drainback valve with a good sealing surface, the same plastic pressure relief valve but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only real drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal.
The telltale signs for a Fram Tough Guard filter are: It has a better backplate that is usually shiny, with six larger holes for the inlet and 6 spot welds around the them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. When you look through the inlet holes, you can see the orange anti-drainback valve. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of “button” in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve.
Fram Double Guard DG8A
This is a frustrating filter. Please do not buy it. It is one of the most expensive filters you can buy and it is junk. Inside is a basic Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) filter element that has larger diameter
holes at the end and has been pre-oiled. You can see this in the picture above (far left). I assume this is to hold the Teflon particles in the filter element before the unit is installed. Don’t put Teflon in your engine. It does not belong there! DuPont does not recommend using their Teflon product in internal combustion engines.
Although it has the worst filter element possible (193 sqin), it does have a clever spring-loaded nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve and bypass valve combination. Too bad the rest of the filter is worthless. Please don’t buy this filter!
The telltale signs for a Fram Tough Guard filter are: It has a better backplate that is usually shiny, with six larger holes for the inlet and 6 spot welds around the them. The backplate should be
stamped with a “1K”. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. The anti-drainback valve diaphram behind the inlet holes is black. If you look into the center hole all the way to the top
of the filter, you will not see the “button” in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it’s made of metal from there).
sunrunner_pei
08-30-2002, 01:25 PM
I just purchased my AC Delco filter from the dealer. It was less than $20 Canadian a few months ago. If you have to, try a different dealership.
Originally posted by VaGT
For 99-00, the haynes manual says this...
Twist the two lines a quarter turn in opposite directions tto loosen the fitting. Depress thw white plastic quick-disconnect tabs and detatch the inlet line from the fuel filter. (gas will spill out)
Use an open end wrench to steady the outlet side of the filter and a flare nut wrench to unscrew the fuel line nut, then seperate the outlet line from the filter while noting the installed position of the O-Ring. Detach the fuel filter mounting bracket bolt and remove the fuel filter.
1) Who has used/needed the flare nut wrench?
2) Has anyone replaced the O-Ring?
I just bought the ACDelco one from the dealer. The Chevy dealer wanted $22.50 for it, so I went back to the Pontiac dealer... oh well, money well spent.
The new filter has a really light blue or green colored rubber/plastic piece over the input end. This isn't the "clip" everyone talks about is it? What role does this play in removing the old and installing the new? I assume the tabs on the replacement filter is what is referred to in step 8 of the instructions above?
Do I still use the green clip people refer to above? Kindof confused right at the moment.
I changed it today. Hardest part was getting the nut off actually. It went really smoothly. I took pictures and will be sending a how to to N-Body for them to post...
Thanks for the help.
Macleod52
09-01-2002, 10:14 AM
I won't go into detail about my experience but please pick up a Haynes manual before doing this! Let's just said I broke the release clip and it is one SOB to get off now! The only way to fix it is to put in a whole new unit which will cost roughly $500. Save yourself the hassle and do it right! Also there are two different types of release mechanisms on the 99+. My next door neighbor, the Service Manager, gave me a printout of them both. I believe one was plastic and the other metal? I don't know for sure. I just know there are two different setups. I don't know if it was just 99 or 99 + 00 or what but yeah.
mine was pretty simple and pretty self-explainitory by just looking at the filter.
Gramp's GT
09-02-2002, 03:33 PM
My car was 2 years old in August...I gotta remember to get this changed the next time I take it to the shop. Does it really need to be changed every year?
Macleod52
09-02-2002, 05:20 PM
Originally posted by Gramp's GT
My car was 2 years old in August...I gotta remember to get this changed the next time I take it to the shop. Does it really need to be changed every year? It won't hurt if you do it every year.... But I would definatly do it every two just to save your pump and engine... It's only like $22-23 to get it fixed so it's not like it's a big deal :)
PrimalGT
09-02-2002, 05:27 PM
Can somebody do a "how To" for some of us un=mechanical types...ME:p ..to change our fuel filters....please..
Macleod52
09-02-2002, 05:30 PM
Originally posted by PrimalGT
Can somebody do a "how To" for some of us un=mechanical types...ME:p ..to change our fuel filters....please..
Don't go asking me :) haha, you should go to autozone and get a Haynes manual... They're only like $6.... Very handy too!
I'll post instructions with pics as soon as I get a few minutes. The pictures and instructions will be for 2001+ though. As others have said, the 00-99 had horrible clips. I probably would not have ateempted it except for the 01 specific comments made here as to the ease of the install.
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