View Full Version : HOW TO- convert rear 99+ drums to dics brakes w/pics
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:16 PM
The topic has been disscussed many times, and In no way am I trying to take credit to those who origionally started this project, or those who have helped me with it..... Eblend, Wallflower, and Snwman. Im just trying to get those who are not mechanically inclined like myself, more familiar with the process, and discuss whats needed, W/ pictures ;)
First off you will need the entire rear knuckle assemblies of either a grand am GT (99+), or an olds alero. These cost me $180 for everything including bolts (which arent necessary), and the brake lines, and ebrake line which IS necessary shown below.
Your best bet would be to get everything cleaned up with brake cleaner and a wire brush, and purchase a new set of rotors and pads of your choice. I chose Raybestos rotors and pads, which cost me $130 + tax for the entire rear. Also check that there is decent pad on the ebrake pads before installation and replace IF necessary.
Assemble the entire assmeblies with rotors and pads complete, its much easier to install as a whole, rather than parts at a time. Now would also be a good time to paint those calipers to the color of your choice
(this thread shows the entire assemly beforehand)
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30456&perpage=20&pagenumber=4
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:24 PM
you will need
hammer/ mallet
large vice grips
small vice grips
torque wrench capable of 150ft/lbs.
3/8 ratchet w/ 6 inch extension
phillips screwdriver
10, 12, 13, 15, and 16 mm open ended wrenches of your choice (larger are better so you can get good leverage)
10, 15, and 18mm 3/8 sockets
18mm 1/2 socket
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:29 PM
before you start, with the vehicle on the ground, remove both 15mm bolts that hold the sway bar endlinks in (trust me)
first step obviously is to secure the front tires with blocks, jack up the rear end, place jackstands under both sides, remove both tires, and remove the drums off the stock assemblies (make sure your ebrake is NOT engaded)
then you will need to loosten both strut mount bolts (18mm), and they are torqued down real good
however DO not remove the nuts off them, just loosten them till they are easy enough to hand loosten
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:33 PM
now remove the lower link bolt using your 3/8 ratchet and 15mm socket
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:39 PM
now with a 18mm socket on one side, and a 18mm socket OR wrench on the other, loosten the lower lateral link and remove the LARGE stud that goes thru both ends
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:43 PM
now with a 12mm open ended wrench on the steel side, and either the 16mm OR vice grips on the rubber line side, unbolt the nut that holds the brakeline into the rubber leads to the calipers
Do not turn the 16mm side, simply secure it. The only turning you will be doing is on the 12mm side, BE PREPARED!!!!..... these little things are siezed up real good, I would say getting these out are the hardest part.
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:46 PM
now ubolt the bracket that holds the brake line secure to the chassis (10mm)
once you get the braket off, there will be a small clip that holds the bracket to the rubber line, work it out, and replace it on your disc assembly
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:51 PM
now tug on the main center parking brake line that feeds into both sides, and work out the drivers side parking brake that feeds into the stock assembly. there will be an opening once you get enough slack on it, just slide it out
then on the chassis where the parking brake mounts, it will be held in the hole of the frame by 3 tabs on eack side of the line. you need to either get vice grips and smash them to the center, or take your phillips and hammer, and bend the clips do that you can slide the line out of the frame
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:54 PM
this is what you should have once you finally hand loosten the 2 top strut mount nuts, pull the studs out (you may need to hammer them out) and put aside the stock assembly
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 09:57 PM
finally reverse all the above steps, replace with the Disc assembly, dont forget to bleed the brakes, proceed to the passenger side, and do the same. Lastly replace your tires
EBlend
03-11-2004, 11:12 PM
Common man....all this work and no picture of the final product with the rims and tires on?! hehe Great job on the how to :D
illsmokeyou
03-11-2004, 11:19 PM
well, I thought it might be a waste of space, but ahh well :thumbs:
raybestos rotors and plus pads in the rear- $130
Raybestos rotors and performance friction pads in the front- $125
Kodeblue
03-11-2004, 11:40 PM
Thanks to all you guys involved in this How-To. I have been following it from the first post in the other thread and will be doing this project this summer. Thanks again for making it so much eaiser.:thumbs:
cavingman
03-12-2004, 12:30 AM
nice! should help alot of people out :thumbs:
lightningGA
03-12-2004, 06:03 AM
Originally posted by silverbullet00
Thanks to all you guys involved in this How-To. I have been following it from the first post in the other thread and will be doing this project this summer. Thanks again for making it so much eaiser.:thumbs:
ditto......thanks:thumbs: I'm going to try to get all the parts today:D
tonmarchelli
03-14-2004, 01:37 PM
where would be the best place to get the parts required for this mod? more than likely the junkyard right? thanks for the great how to by the way.
illsmokeyou
03-14-2004, 01:52 PM
Originally posted by tonmarchelli
where would be the best place to get the parts required for this mod? more than likely the junkyard right? thanks for the great how to by the way.
again, I used a local junkyard around my house that just happened to hava an alero.
REMEMBER...... your not as limited as you think. ANY GAGT 99+ OR OLDS ALERO rear assemblies will work. Just make sure you have the complete assembly.
There is another thread in GAOC's suspension section there wallflower has a sticky of all Part #'s of the entire assembly by brand new GM parts.... you could visit your local dealership, or save some cash with GM parts direct, but either way, both are extremely pricey..... I would imagine setting you back over $500 in parts (not including rotors and pads) alone.
PM snwman, as he has many links to junkyards, and ways to find one in your area
I would crack the yellow pages open, and start making some phone calls first
smooth 1269
03-14-2004, 08:25 PM
very nice how to bro, i guess mine is next. ;)
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