Performance Pistons [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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SpikeSpiegel1SC
03-24-2004, 12:39 PM
Ive heard you can get performance or racing pistons for the engine and it will add alot of HP and last longer. Anybody know where I can get one of these for my 3400?

atc3434
03-24-2004, 05:11 PM
Who ever told you that is not thinking much! As far as I know, there are no aftermarket pistons for the 3400 at this point, and even if there were, the power gains would not be substancial. The benifit would be strenght and less reciprocating mass. Perhaps a bit of compression could be added with different pistons, but headwork would be MUCH easier.

ZakkWylde470
03-24-2004, 05:28 PM
I'm sure if you threw down enough $$$$$ you could get a company to make custom pistons for just about anything.

n43210
03-25-2004, 12:00 AM
yep custom=lots of money

95-GT
03-25-2004, 03:31 AM
About $500-$600.

SpikeSpiegel1SC
03-25-2004, 06:34 AM
Dam forget that than lol. Whats a good mod than? Other than the usual cold air and exhaust, no dont say NOS im not sticking that in my baby! lol

95-GT
03-25-2004, 12:10 PM
Heads, Intakes, DHP, stickers, yellow stickers.

SpikeSpiegel1SC
03-25-2004, 01:39 PM
what do you mean stickers and yellow stickers?

95-GT
03-25-2004, 02:07 PM
stickers add power. yellow stickers add the most.

AaronGAGT
03-25-2004, 02:13 PM
Originally posted by 95-GT
stickers add power. yellow stickers add the most.

Yep. Also usually the bigger they are, the more torque they add too.

Babalouie
03-25-2004, 05:33 PM
I have froged pistons, rods, etc. Pistons.....i repeat.........pistons do not give you power! They are there too hold the abuse that you are going to feed them. After you get a forged piston, get a forged set of rods. Now we aren't talking about $30 mods here. You are looking at an engine rebuild.

95-GT
03-25-2004, 05:35 PM
pistons can add power!!! high c.r.. lol

Gt00
03-25-2004, 05:45 PM
Originally posted by Babalouie
Pistons.....i repeat.........pistons do not give you power! HUH ? :confused: Higher Compression pistons and lighter weight pistons will give you more power . ( Even the type of rings and the location of the ring lands effects power ) .

Dr_Kyle
03-25-2004, 06:00 PM
I was under the impression that our factory rods were pretty strong. Pistons could definitely use some improvements for higher power levels though.

95-GT
03-25-2004, 09:19 PM
Should have any problems with pistons as long as you keep the knock down and dont detenate

Babalouie
03-25-2004, 11:13 PM
People that i have spoken to expect like 20hp from pistons!?!?!?!? what??????? I think not.

71Z28RS
03-26-2004, 06:16 AM
Originally posted by Babalouie
People that i have spoken to expect like 20hp from pistons!?!?!?!? what??????? I think not.

If it changes their compression to 12:1 :D
(now you have to run octane booster and have the computer reprogrammed)

But since you have the whole thing taken apart anyway, you might as well bore it and stroke it too. :slayer :rolleyes:

I agree with atc3434....if you want more power you can have head work done instead. That doesn't require a whole engine build either. Besides, if you're worried about strength, unless you're hooking up major power adders, our stock pistons are pretty sturdy.

Babalouie
03-26-2004, 04:43 PM
word!

atc3434
03-30-2004, 06:48 AM
How did you punch a 3.4 out to a 3.7, Babalouie? I didn't think the block was thick enough? Very curious....

95-GT
03-30-2004, 10:47 AM
He probley has shorter rods. Not just bored...but stroked also.

SpikeSpiegel1SC
03-30-2004, 01:04 PM
Sounds like fun! how do i do it? :)

Babalouie
03-30-2004, 04:59 PM
Originally posted by atc3434
How did you punch a 3.4 out to a 3.7, Babalouie? I didn't think the block was thick enough? Very curious....

The motor was built/designed/installed by RSM Racing Canada. My block was "sonic tested". That test will show you all of the bore sizes, stress points, tolerances, etc. We had multiple blocks tested. This block was the one of choice. They other blocks, I think we were only able to make them 3.5-3.6's.

Gt00
03-30-2004, 05:02 PM
Originally posted by 95-GT
He probley has shorter rods. Not just bored...but stroked also. Shorter rods aren't a good idea for performance ( poor rod to stroke ratio ) The crank would have to be offset ground or replaced with one with a longer stroke . Neither of which would likely fit in a stock 3.4 block . This would also require custom pistons / rods to relocate the piston pin . This engine originally displaced 2.8 L and i think the factory has pretty much maxed it out already ? ? I'm not calling anyone a lair or saying it can't be done , but I checked RSMs site and i don't see any stroker kits or custom 3.4 engines :confused:

Babalouie
03-30-2004, 08:19 PM
Originally posted by Gt00
Shorter rods aren't a good idea for performance ( poor rod to stroke ratio ) The crank would have to be offset ground or replaced with one with a longer stroke . Neither of which would likely fit in a stock 3.4 block . This would also require custom pistons / rods to relocate the piston pin . This engine originally displaced 2.8 L and i think the factory has pretty much maxed it out already ? ? I'm not calling anyone a lair or saying it can't be done , but I checked RSMs site and i don't see any stroker kits or custom 3.4 engines :confused:

Next time, phone RSM

Gt00
03-30-2004, 08:40 PM
Originally posted by Babalouie
Next time, phone RSM :) > I was going to get some rotors from them anyway so i'll ask them . They're not to far from me anyway !

71Z28RS
03-31-2004, 06:06 AM
Originally posted by SpikeSpiegel1SC
Sounds like fun! how do i do it? :)

If you're stroking an engine, you need to add a larger crankshaft with modified rods. That makes your stroke longer and it increases your stroke to bore ratio. Your engine won't rev up quite as quickly as it did before, but it makes alot more torque.

SpikeSpiegel1SC
03-31-2004, 06:55 AM
so the less reving worth it? And boreing your just making the cylinders biger by drilling them bigger?

71Z28RS
03-31-2004, 07:00 AM
I think it's worth it. I made my previous 350 into a 383 and I was really happy with the outcome.

Boring the cylinders isn't required when stroking an engine, but if you do bore it, it'll give you a couple more ci's. Usually the reason for boring while doing the engine build is just to clean up the cylinder walls for your new buildup.

Babalouie
03-31-2004, 05:14 PM
Originally posted by Gt00
:) > I was going to get some rotors from them anyway so i'll ask them . They're not to far from me anyway !


Where are you at?? I'm just down the street from them.

atc3434
03-31-2004, 05:17 PM
Originally posted by 71Z28RS
I think it's worth it. I made my previous 350 into a 383 and I was really happy with the outcome.

Boring the cylinders isn't required when stroking an engine, but if you do bore it, it'll give you a couple more ci's. Usually the reason for boring while doing the engine build is just to clean up the cylinder walls for your new buildup.

What did you have the 383 in? I almost went that route with my F-body, but I don't have the dollars to do it right.

Gt00
03-31-2004, 05:19 PM
Originally posted by Babalouie
Where are you at?? I'm just down the street from them. I'm around the Kennedy / 401 area , not far to RSM once you hit the hwy . :D

71Z28RS
04-01-2004, 06:40 AM
Originally posted by atc3434
What did you have the 383 in? I almost went that route with my F-body, but I don't have the dollars to do it right.

I put it in my last Z28. It was a 1979. I was lucky to find out that my car came with a 4-bolt main, so I was all set there. I bored it 0.030" over to clean up the walls, so that made it a 383 after stroking it. If you bore it 0.040" it's a 385, and if you go a full 0.060" it's a 388.
The buildup was pretty straight-forward though. Pretty much just like a regular build other than the crank. The main thing is to make sure that everything swings ok since the crank just barely fits. I had to dent out part of my oil pan since the counterweight brushed it right where it met the block. Other than that, it was no trouble. I've heard some people have to do a little grinding on the block (right where the oilpan meets) because the counterweights don't quite clear it, but I didn't have that problem. If you don't want to piece your stuff together, PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse) sells different levels of kits so that you can basically decide where you want to put your money. I went with a forged crank, forged pistons and rods, chrome molley rod ends, and I paid to have the pieces balanced to each other and to the crank. Other than the basic assembly, the main thing to make sure is that you get a new flywheel (or flexplate) and a new balancer. That's because the 350 is internally balanced and the new crank is from a 400 which is externally balanced (or vice versa). So you have to get a 400 flywheel and balancer to match the crank.

Anyway, ran a moderately lopy cam, and I topped the engine with Dart heads, an edelbrock intake and carb. It ran really well, and I was very happy with the outcome.

The whole buildup cost less than $4000 including all the accesories (gaskets, timing gears and chain, rockers, lifters, pushrods, oil pump, pan, belts, alternator, pwr steering pump, water pump, distributor, starter), so it's still more cost effective to do it yourself instead of going with a crate. You can get that price down a bit by going with cheaper heads and getting cast parts instead of forged, and re-using alot of your accesories.

atc3434
04-02-2004, 07:56 AM
Originally posted by 71Z28RS
I went with a forged crank, forged pistons and rods, chrome molley rod ends, and I paid to have the pieces balanced to each other and to the crank.

Now thats doing it RIGHT. Musta been fun when it was all together. Hella torque, right?

71Z28RS
04-02-2004, 08:46 AM
Originally posted by atc3434
Now thats doing it RIGHT. Musta been fun when it was all together. Hella torque, right?

Yeah, the forged parts are the way to go, even if it wasn't 100% necessary since it was still naturally aspirated. But I didn't have to freak when I missed a shift and the tach whipped past 6500.

The torque was great. I had alot of fun in it, but unfortunately I paid the price in broken drivetrain parts. I was on my 4th trans by the time I got rid of it. I guess I should have saved up and bought a good trans too. Suprisingly, I didn't touch the 10 bolt, and I didn't have a bit of trouble with it. I was fortunate that my car came ordered with factory 3.73 gears.

I think I'll probably do a stroker for my new 71 project, but in big block form instead......that'll take a bit to save up for though.

If you decide to do a rebuild for your F-body, the 383 is the way to go and doesn't really cost much more than a regular 350 buildup. Let me know if you need any part opinions. I think I still have most of my receipts and info stashed away in my "How to Rebuild a Smallblock Chevy" manual.