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tenstrum
04-05-2004, 06:47 AM
Any idea why my engine is getting warmer than usually while I'm sitting still? It runs at the normal range (~190) while I'm driving, but if I go through a drive through or something it'll get up to around 240 degrees. It doesn't go past that, so its not getting real hot, but it shouldn't be getting that warm either. I've got plenty of coolant.

Incendently, anyone have any coolant fluid changing tips?

tjc13
04-05-2004, 07:23 AM
If you search you will find that this is not uncommon on Grand Am's. There is very little air that gets into the engine bay while you are stopped. There are options to make your car run cooler but you're not hurting your car now. You can get a DHP reprogram and a 180* thermostat. Or you can get a Caspers High Speed Fan Switch. Everything mentioned can be found at PFYC.com

Tom

mr_eh
04-05-2004, 07:26 AM
i put my heat on on the floor setting and it comes down to normal, im gonna invest in the caspers fan, when im in stop and go it goes over the normal temp, nothing you can do about it other then what tjc13 mentioned...

tenstrum
04-05-2004, 07:50 AM
That just seems a little odd...Shouldn't be getting that warm.
has anyone installed that Casper fan switch?

mr_eh
04-05-2004, 07:52 AM
not yet but its a plug and play from what i've read and is very simple to setup and operate, even i could do it!

eren00gt
04-05-2004, 07:59 AM
Turn the AC or defrost on. They will kick the fans on. That is what I do when I am idling for a while like at a drive thru or whatever. Sure it may load down the engine but if your just idling you don't need max performance and besides I'd rather have a cooler engine over watching it get up to the higher temps. And I haven't had the intake leak problem yet(knocking on wood), which might and I say might be related to the fact I don't let it get to the higher temps.

action
04-05-2004, 08:31 AM
I always leave the AC on in the summer, even on low fan speed. This will kick in the second cooling fan on the RAD.

MikeSilverGT
04-05-2004, 11:51 AM
is your radiator cap holding pressure? My car was running hot, but not overheating, the dealer found that the cap was defective, replaced it, my car never gets to 230+ even when mostly idling, that seems a bit extreme...

The caspers fan switch wont help you if your getting to 240 because it turns on the second fan which will automatically come on if your car goes above 230 anyhow..

tenstrum
04-05-2004, 02:45 PM
What radiator cap?
I thought it was one of those units that doesn't have direct access to the radiator.
I know GM did that on some late 90s models of the 3.1L Cavaliers. Am I wrong?

coupe
04-05-2004, 05:10 PM
Hell i have *180 stat and caspers fan switch. The stat dosent allow it to get over 200. The fan switch i dont know its still uninstalled, havent had time yet.

tjc13
04-05-2004, 06:44 PM
You are right, there is no "radiator" cap but there is a cap on the top of your coolant overflow bottle. That would be the one to check.

tenstrum
04-06-2004, 08:28 AM
Its tight as can be. guess i'll try the 180 thermostat

Gt00
04-06-2004, 09:56 AM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by tenstrum
Its tight as can be. guess i'll try the 180 thermostat > It's not a matter of it being on tight , it's is it working ? It's supposed to hold pressure , if it doesn't your car will overheat much easier . ;)

MikeSilverGT
04-06-2004, 06:19 PM
Yeah, sorry, I know its not a radiator cap per se, that's what the dealer called it, I guess they figured I wouldn't know what a coolant tank or coolant overflow bottle is....

Back to the cap, he's right, doesn't matter how much you tighen it, it can still not hold pressure if its defective..

But then 230+ degrees sounds really hot for even a coolant tank cap issue... You may just be treating the symptoms and not the cause with a stat/casper's fan switch...

The cap costs about 4 dollars to replace (if I wasn't under warrenty) so its not much of an investment to see if it helps, something is definitely not right though, I almost only drove my car in city traffic the first year I had it and it never got that hot even in the summer down here in Georgia.

Mcropper03
04-06-2004, 09:11 PM
I've had similiar problems with my car as well. I have a 97 GA with a 3.1 and it's a very weird problem. I thought it was something that only happened b/c it was so hot outside, then I've had it happen in the winter time as well. It's never overheated, just gets close, but switching on the ac usually works on cooling it down.

jazzman
04-06-2004, 10:19 PM
could be an air pocket in the system which will cause it to get hot, i think i have that problem, i topped it off for the year the other day and didn't follow procedure and just put the cap on and drove, and i think i got an air pocket.

derek

JawnyRico
04-07-2004, 07:35 PM
are we even sure that the fan is coming on to cool off the radiator, could be an intermittent fan problem to where it is not kicking on properly and the temp is rising and rising.....

fastdad1955
04-07-2004, 11:43 PM
If you have recently added coolant and feel you have an air pocket then there is a bleed valve on the front of the engine by the water pump where you can take the air out of the system.. i had to do this after replacing the water pump. I was loosing coolant and getting hot while idling. Took it to dealer that i bought the car from (used) and they pressure tested the system and found the water pump leaking from a pressure relief hole that is in the water pump. After replacing that since the dealer wanted my arm and leg to do it....LoL I still had a small over heating condition and I found the bleed valve and opened it long enough to let out the air...and it fixed the problem. I did that twice to make sure that all the air was out of the coolant system....

eric99gt
04-08-2004, 06:19 AM
i still believe it is a common thing with the GA. Every one I've ever been in I have seen the temps sky pretty high. I even had the cap replaced so I know that wasn't my problem. Now I have the 180 degree and it seems to keep it much cooler.

tenstrum
04-23-2004, 07:30 AM
Well, i know that its not my thermostat and my fans are working whenever I flip on the AC. That narrows it down to: an air pocket, a bad fan relay, or a bad resevoir cap.

I was also thinking about the fact that I ran out of gas (like a big stupid idiot) a few weeks before this started, but I seem to remember it getting a little warm last summer as well,but not quite as bad.
I'm really leaning towards a bad fan relay. How do you test those things? I believe that they are located in the engine compartment fuse box. Do they just pull out like a fuse or is something special required to get them loose?

Thanks!

Turismo
05-04-2004, 09:32 PM
All this talk about the thermostat...yes it could be that but also check the fuse in your relay center under the hood or the fan sensor switch. Maybe your fan isn't working at all and thats why you heat up at the drive thru. Using your heater is an option but that's not fixing the problem.

I had a similar heating problem and discovered my 30A fuse for the cooling system was blown. Fuse#8 (may be different for US purchased GA's)...just pull it out with your hand...no tools required.

tenstrum
05-11-2004, 12:20 PM
I've checked all my Cooling Fans relays/fuses, all of them are good. Even had Autozone test them. The tech at Autozone I talked to said that newer GM cars are being built to run warmer and that the gauges will throw you off. I told him what was going on with my car, getting up to 220-230 degrees and he said that it wasn't a problem. Once it hits 230, Fan #1 should kick in and cool it down quickly. I asked him when does Fan #2 kick in and he said the only time that it does is when the AC comes on. Made since to me. So from what I can tell...it's within perfect operating range as long as it doesn't go above 230 and I don't have a problem at all. Guess if I'm in stop and go traffic, I'll just run the AC. i still don't like my car gettin that warm and I may order the manual fan switch.

XDRKMANX
05-11-2004, 01:00 PM
I wouldn't trust the people at Autozone. If they knew their s hit about cars they wouldn't be working at Autozone.

Tech.... lol

firecat
05-11-2004, 06:28 PM
I have the same problem..my ac don't work and the heater only works on 3 or higher..i don't like to see the heat Gage that high,did anyone have a problem with the oil cover? Mine was stuck on and had to pry it of..not to mention the center dome gasket,wheel bearings and roaters..just got this car and hope that i didn't get a lemon..but not looking good so far lol..the car only has 112000

MJSilver00
05-12-2004, 01:01 PM
if your heater/ac fan only works on 3 or higher, go to the parts dept at any gm dealer and ask them for the resistor for it. describe the problem and they will know exactly what youre talking about because its a common thing. you can install it yourself its under the dash on the passenger side (cost about $30).

coupe
05-12-2004, 02:43 PM
I love my fan switch! I can turn both them bad boys on whenever i want. Its one of my favorite mods and one of the cheapest i have spent. This mod is worth every frickin penny.

firecat
05-12-2004, 07:52 PM
Thanks for the info MJSilver00. I thought that i had a major problem!!!!!!

tenstrum
05-14-2004, 11:21 AM
I've never had a problem with people at Autozone. Always been friendly AND knowledgable. If you sell enough car parts, eventually you'll have to learn something... :)

By the way XDRKMANX whose the hot chick in your Avatar? :slayer

2002AmSE
05-18-2004, 04:53 PM
Hey, say hypothetically that the thermostat was in between 200 degrees and the 260, on that 3rd thick line, would that do damage if the engine was consistently at that point? I know that our coolant is supposed to be boil-over protected to 260(if new, mine was tested at 255 recently). If the coolant doesn't boil over, what damage is possible at that temperature?

claymore
05-20-2004, 09:58 PM
If you have recently added coolant and feel you have an air pocket then there is a bleed valve on the front of the engine by the water pump where you can take the air out of the system.. i had to do this after replacing the water pump. I was loosing coolant and getting hot while idling. Took it to dealer that i bought the car from (used) and they pressure tested the system and found the water pump leaking from a pressure relief hole that is in the water pump. After replacing that since the dealer wanted my arm and leg to do it....LoL I still had a small over heating condition and I found the bleed valve and opened it long enough to let out the air...and it fixed the problem. I did that twice to make sure that all the air was out of the coolant system....


I have a simmilar problem now. only not with the water pump. I changed my coolant a week ago and now I keep loosing coolant out of the over flow tube when the car is idling, (temp gets high and coolant spills out before fans kick in).
any way, are you supossed to bleed it hot or cold?

jeffescortlx
05-26-2004, 03:28 PM
What year did the GA start coming with 2 radiator Fan's? I only see one on my 95 GAGT, and it does'nt come on when the Air is on. If I jumper the relay contacts the fan will work, and I tested the relay and it's fine so it has to be the relay signal not grounding.
Is there any common problems to look for that will not send a signal to the Fan relay? I yes checked the fuse's.
Thanks

Oh and when my car sit's and idel's in traffic or at a stop light the temp gauge goes cold...WTF? The Fan does'nt seem to be working either, weird.
And it has fresh LIM gaskets.

tenstrum
07-30-2004, 12:53 PM
I think it started with the 2 fans in 99' when they did the redesign.

Malibu66
07-30-2004, 02:08 PM
tenstrum
From discussions with the service department and a few other shops, the computer is set to kick on the fan when the coolant temp hits around 220-230 then shut off when the temp get to 190. If you turn on your A/C it overrides the settings and turns both fans on regardless of the coolant temp.

You should also check to make sure you have no air in the system as that will also cause you to run hot.