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HellFire77
07-06-2004, 11:09 AM
Hi. Well this is my first post, but I have been lurking around here for a while now and have learned a lot from the people here. I just never had a reason to ask a question, I always just used the search button :D

Anyway back to the point, I have the infamous LIM gasket leak, it seems to be leaking externally because my oil looks fine. I have a 2000 GAGT with 61000km on it. Its no longer under warranty and I was told it would cost around $1000.00 Canadian to fix it :rage:
Being a student and trying to save for school in September there is not way I was going to pay that, so I am going to do it my self.
So I have my trusty Haynes Repair Manual and my Uncle who used to be a mechanic to help me.

I do have a few questions tho and was hoping some one might be able to help.
Do I have to drain the coolant or oil when I remove the LIM, I don’t think so but want to make sure.
Second do I really have to relieve fuel pressure from the fuel rails? Because I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge it says I need to do it.

That’s all the questions I can think to ask for now…

If anyone wants to see any pics.
A picture of where it is leaking for me.
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1738c.jpg

Index if you want to see all the pics
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/

eric99gt
07-06-2004, 04:01 PM
well i guess it would save on some of the mess if you drained the oil and coolant. i didn't and mine ended up fine. just to know though u'll have some puddles on the floor. it would probably be easier to drain it. About the fuel pressure. you don't need a regulator. just take the cap off and press on the needle with a rag.

Blackrider
07-06-2004, 04:08 PM
Just take the lid off the colant tank and then start removing the hoses need, it will drain out. Yeah have to do it in order to change the LIM. When its all back togather DO an oil change you dont want all that colant floating around

HellFire77
07-06-2004, 07:55 PM
Well we drained out the coolant. And took everything apart, but now we are stuck on the Fuel line rails. We have the side part off the front fuel rail, I think it has the fuel pressure regulator on it. However we can’t get the back one off, you unscrew the bolt and pull and it won’t come off and we pulled as hard as we dared with out breaking it.

Picture of the offending part
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1942c.jpg

And I found this picture of what it looks like when you get it off, it looks like you just pull it off.
http://www.grandampc.com/leak/2/open%2010.html

Is there some sort of trick to get this thing off?? Or do I just pull really hard?

Blackrider
07-06-2004, 07:58 PM
Well we drained out the coolant. And took everything apart, but now we are stuck on the Fuel line rails. We have the side part off the front fuel rail, I think it has the fuel pressure regulator on it. However we can’t get the back one off, you unscrew the bolt and pull and it won’t come off and we pulled as hard as we dared with out breaking it.

Picture of the offending part
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1942c.jpg

And I found this picture of what it looks like when you get it off, it looks like you just pull it off.
http://www.grandampc.com/leak/2/open%2010.html

Is there some sort of trick to get this thing off?? Or do I just pull really hard?
Thats odd my rear fuel rail came right off once i undid the bolt. as for the front one i just took out the torque bit that holds the FPR to the fuel rail and pulled the regulator off.

eric99gt
07-06-2004, 08:05 PM
u know what your probably forgetting. there is a bolt that hold to two fuel lines together and attaches to the side of the cylinder heads i believe. follow the two fuel lines down and you'll find the clamp holding them together. remove the bolt and you should be set. I had the same problem.

tjc13
07-06-2004, 08:07 PM
It IS possible to get if off. Mine was a pain to get off and I thought that I was going to break it. But, once I saw the same picture you posted with the fuel rail off. I just pulled harder.

jamcllw
07-07-2004, 07:05 AM
You gotta pull on it hard. I was told the reason it's so hard is because the o-ring swells from the gas. Make sure when you do get it to come out that you don't lose that o-ring because they are almost impossible to locate at a parts store.

HellFire77
07-07-2004, 10:08 AM
Hey thanks for all the support guys and sorry for the lack of updates, I did get it off, after looking at that pic same as Tjc13 did I was like it has to come off, so I got a wrench and a hammer, and clamped the wrench to the back fuel hose and tapped the wrench till it came out of the fuel rail.

I am not too sure what bolt you are taking about eric99gt? I think you are taking about taking the fuel rails off the LIM, and I just wanted to leave them on, don’t want to mess with the injectors; I don’t think I could handle taking anything else apart…

Once that was off we got the valve covers off and took off the LIM. Now once that was off we looked at the part of the gasket that was closest to the bolt that was leaking the coolant and well it looks fine… So I start looking at the LIM its self and I am not sure but I think I see a crack…

Possible crack? Sorry for the poor picture.
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1964c.jpg

However in the same hole, there is a line that looks like a crack but seems to be left over from when it was made and runs through the whole LIM block
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1965c.jpg


So what I am wondering is has anyone seen this before. I personally don’t think it’s a crack but I would hate to put the whole thing back together and find out it still leaks.

Also I am trying to clean off the old bits of the gasket and its proving to be a real pain. I have some gasket remover but it doesn’t seem to work. I am trying not to scrap it too hard because it cuts into the soft aluminum. I have some brake cleaner can I use that? Or maybe some simple green? Any ideas would be great :D

Blackrider
07-07-2004, 12:30 PM
Hey thanks for all the support guys and sorry for the lack of updates, I did get it off, after looking at that pic same as Tjc13 did I was like it has to come off, so I got a wrench and a hammer, and clamped the wrench to the back fuel hose and tapped the wrench till it came out of the fuel rail.

I am not too sure what bolt you are taking about eric99gt? I think you are taking about taking the fuel rails off the LIM, and I just wanted to leave them on, don’t want to mess with the injectors; I don’t think I could handle taking anything else apart…

Once that was off we got the valve covers off and took off the LIM. Now once that was off we looked at the part of the gasket that was closest to the bolt that was leaking the coolant and well it looks fine… So I start looking at the LIM its self and I am not sure but I think I see a crack…

Possible crack? Sorry for the poor picture.
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1964c.jpg

However in the same hole, there is a line that looks like a crack but seems to be left over from when it was made and runs through the whole LIM block
http://hellfire77.homeip.net/limleak/IMG_1965c.jpg


So what I am wondering is has anyone seen this before. I personally don’t think it’s a crack but I would hate to put the whole thing back together and find out it still leaks.

Also I am trying to clean off the old bits of the gasket and its proving to be a real pain. I have some gasket remover but it doesn’t seem to work. I am trying not to scrap it too hard because it cuts into the soft aluminum. I have some brake cleaner can I use that? Or maybe some simple green? Any ideas would be great :D
Kinda hard to tell in the first one but the second one just looks like casting marks

eric99gt
07-07-2004, 12:49 PM
nahhh that's not what i was talking about hell. there is a clamp that holds the two fuel lines together as they run down from the fuel rail. doesn't matter though cause u got it off.

HellFire77
07-07-2004, 10:04 PM
Well……. First the good news, the car started. Now for the bad news, it doesn’t idle nicely and now there is a tick, AND the service engine soon light is on. /sigh…

I am hoping it’s a bad sensor that is causing it to idle rough and making the SES light come on.
However I have no idea what is making the tick. It’s not super loud but I don’t remember it being there before. I have read about the ticking, it could be the lifters/rockers? but we tightened those to spec, so I guess I am left with it being valve/piston slap?

I can handle the ticking but the rough idle is bad. We thought it was a vacuum leak so we pulled the PCV valve to check and the engine stalled, it’s never done that before when I checked the PCV valve.

So as always any ideas are welcome as to what makes a car idle really rough other than bad wires or spark plugs, because we didn’t really touch the wires, just took off the coil pack.

jamcllw
07-08-2004, 06:24 AM
Make sure you ran the wires back to the correct cylinder. I had 2 wires crossed when I did my LIM and it idled really rough. The SES light came on as well. Swapped the wires back and ran perfectly and the SES light went off.

HellFire77
07-10-2004, 07:19 PM
Well I am going to finish off this thread for anyone else that might find it with the search button when trying to fix their own LIM gasket leak.

I checked my wires 3 times, they were all hooked up right. So I took it to the local dealer ship and asked them just to tell me the code, that still cost me $60… It came back Error Code P0300 that means “Random/Multiple Cylinder misfires detected”. I was not happy because it turns out the cost for new wires is $100, and the coil pack is in 4 parts, $85 for each of the three top parts and $300 for the bottom plate.. So I took it and drove it home and OMG I look down about half way home and the SES light is gone!
It turns out we reset the PCM when doing the LIM gasket fix(I knew that would happen) what I didn’t know was how rough the engine would run with it reset. My K&N cone filter was hitting my battery because the engine was bouncing around so much. I think the car misfired when I first tried to start it after putting the whole engine back together I guess all the fuel lines and everything had to be repressurized. This made the SES light come on from the one time misfire and the engine was only running rough from a reset PCM. I also found this out and I quote from my Haynes manual
“The light(SES).. ..will remain on until the PCM does not detect any malfunctions for several consecutive drive cycles” that’s why it didn’t go away until I drove the car for like the 5 th time.
I wish I knew that before, it would have saved me $60.00…
So over all the fixing of the LIM gasket was a success and saved me $700 and I got some cool tools and knowledge about my car along the way :D
Also a big thanks to all the people here that helped me out. :thumbs:
Now I seem to have this 1-2 shift problem since I reset the PCM…sigh… another fun problem to fix. :p