View Full Version : Hesitation forever
07-26-2004, 12:14 PM
I have had my 2000 GAGT in the shop 7 or 8 times due to hesitation at constant acceleration. The problem has been discussed here before regarding partial or full-throttle acceleration hesitation, especially uphill. The hesitation comes in 1 second wave intervals like you were tapping the accelerator. The dealer and his GM certified techs have done a terrible job of diagnosing the reason for this. I have spent thousands on unnecessary repairs because of their so called professional evaluations and resolutions. You name it, it has been replaced. This problem has no apparent resolution and the dealer has told me not to come back. The service manager even said the 20 year technician is tired of working on my car. He didn't even take a look at the electrical system to make sure the electrical integrity was intact. They basically told me to get lost because they didn't want to spend an extra few minutes to evaluate the problem. Instead they charged me hundreds of dollars for false diagnosis & replacements. GM is not willing to do anything about it. I have had a very frustrating time trying to get them to listen, or offer answers to the problem. GM is not willing to take any steps to resolve this outside of warranty. The threads I have seen over the past year have not really been able to resolve the hesitation problem for me after numerous repairs too long to list here.
I have had over a dozen problems with this car through only 35,000mi
07-28-2004, 08:41 PM
Hmm... I remember having a similar problem like that as well... If I remember correctly, the problem is electrical and not mechanical... Does it do it more often when you are accelerating and/or turning? I remember that what had actually happened was that my 3x crank sensor wire had came loose, touched the exhaust manifold heat shield, fried some electronics, and made it a pain in the ass for me to fix it... Although, I don't remember if that was the cause of the stutter or not... I'd suggest this...
1. Check wire connection from engine to tranny, might be loose, and check ignition wiring, sometimes it can cause strange things...
2. Try running with and without the A/C and see if it still has the same problem, if so, then it's safe to assume that it's related to the A/C, however, I doubt that is the case.
3. In an automatic, the stock config. doesn't let you nuetral slam, so are you trying to shift it by hand in an auto and give it a lot of gas to create an effect similar to popping a clutch in a manual? Automatics factory are not meant to nuetral slam, you will need to get some computer rework and get a staging rev limiter so that you can nuetral slam then, although I don't see the point in going that far!
Also, does it make any weird noises when it's stuttering? (Aside from the engine rev's) It might be a more serious error if you start hearing a clinking and/or grinding noise. Try turning off the ETS and seeing what happens...
Also, I don't think this will help, but who knows... Try unplugging your battery, then unplug the transmission cable that runs to the PCM. (It's a round plug on the front of the trans near the large heater hose). Then go do something for 30 minutes or so, eat lunch, play a video game, doesn't matter, just leave it alone for 30 minutes. Then plug only the battery back in, and try starting the car, it should start, and it should be stuck in second gear because when the computer doesn't know what the tranny is doing, the tranny goes into 2nd and won't change until it regains signal, try seeing if it still stutters like this... If not, then it might be the signal from the PCM to the tranny... Even just blow on the connector to hopefully clean it a little bit, but basically then shut the car off, plug the tranny plug back in, then start it up again and see what happens...
Anywho, those are only my ideas, I don't remember exactly what I did to fix it, but I do know that I fixed it... Hope it helps!
P.s. Send PM if it helps any...
07-30-2004, 10:59 AM
Oh wait, I just remembered now why it did that... It's not an electrical problem, it's more of a mechanical problem. I had it occur on mine when my roll-resistors on the engine wore down so whenever I accelerated and/or turned, the engine would roll to much and it would slip for reasons I don't feel like explaining because I just ate an a$$ load of Wendy's and am now going to take a nap! Ironically, this came back to me as I hit a pothole on my way home...
Check your roll-resistor mounts... there are 2, one on the back of the tranny, it's hard to get at but it probably isn't the bad one. The other is right in front of the starter and is more prone to go bad since it's what keeps the engine from rolling on acceleration and such...
Look for a worn rubber ring or cracks in the ring, just because it looks fine doesn't mean it is fine. Also, try seeing if you can rock the engine by hand, it should move a very small amount, if any. If it moves easily, then you do have a bad roll-resistor mount...
Hope that helps!
08-03-2004, 12:26 PM
Thanks for putting out some ideas about my problem. To clarify the hesitation, it happens nearly every single drive, with more of a surge upon acceleration mostly between gears from 2700 through 3500 RPMs. The other day, I watched the rpms as the problem occurred and the needle surged as well and would not reach 3000 rpms. Upon acceleration, the car jumps to 3500 rpms. This is very consistent up hills or on interstate entrance ramps over 35-40 mph. This also happens while opening the trottle in park. The car is a 2000 so very little is worn out and I can't budge the engine by hand. With the A/C running, the problem is a little more apparent and tougher to get out of the funk. For the past 8 months, I usually hit the throttle hard to stop the hestiation and then back off quickly and return to my speed. (no grinding or other odd sounds)
It feels like an electrical problem to me but where to find the source seems endless. The wiring on all visible connections seem intact but I have never checked the connection to the tranny. The battery has been disconnect a few times to reset a code for the O2 sensor #1, but the O2 #1 was replaced with a new one 3 months ago. Resetting the SES light has caused the problem to feel worse each time. Replacements on this car include : Transmission,TPS, fuel filter, fuel pump, o2 sensor, air filter, a fuse and relay all in the past 8 months. In general, Dealers are there only to take your money, even if you show them how much you care about your car. I am going to have to trade this car. I will not sell this to anyone outright, as a matter of fact I woudn't even give this car to anyone.
08-03-2004, 12:42 PM
Checked out your injectors at all???
08-12-2004, 08:36 AM
Thanks for the response Iceman. I have not had the injectors checked per my request because I was depending on the self proclaimed professional GM certified technicians at the dealership to find the answer. I questioned alot of things they had said in order to have them explain their conclusions, but the service manager resented my concerns. He always used manager vocabulary but without any real content of automotive expertise. I don't know much about guys like you, but I trust you guys more because you have detailed knowledge of vehicles and that is what I have been looking for. I read several threads here and did notice that some people had injector problems but they had lots of miles on their cars. Plus, when the problem occurred at nearly the same point of acceleration and speeds each time it seemed localized instead of an overall fuel problem. For example, the car always started fine, and drove fine in city traffic below 35mph, never kicking or gasping for fuel or air. As soon as you asked the car to use its V6 power, it fails miserably. I am in a dilema right now about what I plan to do with this car but thanks for your comments.
03-12-2005, 05:20 PM
I'm pretty much having the same problem with my 2000 SE V6. It started a few months ago and stopped briefly right after I installed my CAI. Now it's back and really bothering me. I was beginning to think it was just my transmission's way of telling me that it needs some attention, but now the injector angle has me wondering. Good luck on getting yours figured out. And if either of us get it solved we should be sure and post it ASAP.
03-12-2005, 06:21 PM
I had a 99 Mazda Protege that had this exact hesitation. It was in the shop a long time trying to find out what was causing it. After 3 weeks of replacing many, many parts it turned out that it was the MAF sensor. I had NO engine light and it was showing NO codes. Have someone check your MAF sensor.
03-12-2005, 07:13 PM
talk about back from the dead
06-21-2005, 11:58 AM
For anyone that experiences this annoying problem originally written a year ago, I have had the exact problem. The engine had roaming codes including but not limited to:
P0440 (Small EVAP leak)
P0300 (Multi-Cylinder Misfire)
P0131 (Low Voltage O2 Sensor B1 S1).
In hunting it, they replaced the following to no avail:
O Ring on Fuel Tank
Canister Purge Valve
They have now replaced the MAF sensor and the problem is gone! If you experience this problem, go straight for the MAF!
11-11-2005, 11:27 AM
I have a 2000 GAGT with about 95K on it,and about 2 months ago I did lots of maintenance on my car, replacing all the brakes, fluid changes, and replacement of misc. parts and the O2 sensor because I received a code P0131. Well for about the last 3 weeks I have had the the problems being described above.
My views about cars and there maintenance are quite similar to the effect that the dealership is only out for money and it the technicians don't have a code to go by they are absolutely useless so since my warrantee ran out I went out and bought a diagnostic tool and believe I can do the same damn job as the technicians for no cost. So my motto is "Push it until it breaks!"
So yesterday my SES light came on while going up a hill on the highway. I am again getting the P0131 code. I can not imagine that my O2 sensor is bad again and if it is there must be something causing it to go bad. I will replace the MAF Sensor and suggested in the above threads.
Is there anything else I should be considering?
11-11-2005, 07:56 PM
I've been having the same problem for a while now and it all seemed to have started right after I put my underdrive pulley in. Maybe I didn't get the reluctor ring aligned right or maybe it's not on all the way I'm not sure. I recently got a DHP Power Tuner and the new version coming out (hopefully) this weekend will be able to do a CASE learn. I'll report my findings once I do this. For me I know it wasn't my MAF sensor causing it because I have 2, my stock one and my Pro-M one and swapping one for the other doesn't solve it for me.
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