SVS/ABS Lights - Brakes Appear Fine [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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Infernall
10-23-2004, 10:33 PM
Hey guys,

I have my ABS and SVS lights coming on once every few days. This occurs while driving, and happens during braking or driving.

The next time I start my car, the ABS/SVS is gone, and remains off until some random time during the next few days.

My brakes are in excellent condition, as I just had the front rotors and pads changed 6 months ago.

My car is a 2001 Grand Am SE, and has drums on the rear, which I assume will not cause ABS error codes to fire.

I already took my car to Midas to have the brakes inspected. The Midas mechanic said my brakes were fine, looked new, and couldn't see any problems. I would like to add that Midas did not charge for this check-up.

Could anyone point me in the right direction? I am not sure what else to look for at this point, and the error codes are quite annoying.

Thanks guys!

95-GT
10-23-2004, 10:39 PM
Hey guys,
My brakes are in excellent condition, as I just had the front rotors and pads changed 6 months ago.


Thats your problem. The ABS sensor wiring got ripped out of the hub assembly since it was not properly attached after the brake change.

mcgrady
10-24-2004, 02:29 PM
Thats your problem. The ABS sensor wiring got ripped out of the hub assembly since it was not properly attached after the brake change.

Yep, that would be the first place to look. It really doesn't take a lot to disturb the connection to the wheel speed sensors in these cars. It's not going to be something as obvious as the harness ripped right off though since the SES/ABS light comes and goes. Loose/dirty connection or wheel bearing going bad would be my guesses. If you hook up an OBDII scanner, it should tell you what wheel the code is coming from.

Infernall
10-24-2004, 02:53 PM
If I was to get the ODB2 code read, can it be read without the ABS/SVS showing? It doesn't always show, sometimes only once in a few days.

Are the codes stored?

Daxloth
10-24-2004, 04:56 PM
I had the same issue, my ABS light flicked on and off for about 6 months, then became solid and my other brake light eventually came on.. took it to the dealer, my hub assemblys needed to be replaced.. I have the same year and model GA.. with about 30,000 miles now.. maybe a more widespread issue?

Infernall
10-24-2004, 09:55 PM
About how much did it cost to have the hub assembly replaced?

I just got my car back from a head gasket replacement.

Blackrider
10-24-2004, 10:06 PM
Its probably just a flacky wheel sensor.

jwk3465
10-25-2004, 07:58 PM
I am having the same problem. ABS, Trac Off and SVS lights come on occasionally. Already took it to a mechanic, who hooked it up to a computer, and told me he could find nothing. Should the sensor be replaced maybe?

eaglesrealm
10-26-2004, 09:47 AM
I have the same thing, scan by the collision center (in for an unrelated deer crash) said that the code was the Front Left wheel bearing assy (which includes the speed sensor on our cars). Also, is there any noise you might hear from a failing hub assy, my car seems to be making more "road noise" lately that I would best describe as a buzzing or hum. It is not the engine, and it goes up and down with the speed of the car.

I asked this before, and still not sure the answer. Why can't Autozone scan for SVS issues like this ABS problem, but can scan with OBD-II for SES codes? Is there a different scanner??

eaglesrealm
11-03-2004, 11:11 PM
Bought a new hub assy at Autozone for about $110 and replaced my front left hub/bearing assy with speed sensor. Fixed ABS/TC/SVS lights immediately and now the ABS and Trac work again.

Am happy for that :) Old bearing was worn, causing noise when I drove. It also had a bad speed sensor that measured with supoer high resistance on an Ohm check.

rizer
11-04-2004, 12:10 AM
I had the same problem for a month now. I just unplugged the sensors wires then plugged em back in and they havent gone off in 2 days. Hoping that did the trick, dunno if it takes days for the sensor to trip the system (if the sensor is bad)

crazyboykc
11-04-2004, 07:06 AM
I am having the same problem. ABS, Trac Off and SVS lights come on occasionally. Already took it to a mechanic, who hooked it up to a computer, and told me he could find nothing. Should the sensor be replaced maybe?

My 2001 Grand AM is doing the same. Nothing seems to be wrong with the car when it happens, I am just afraid something will go out. Does anyone know what it might be?

eaglesrealm
11-04-2004, 12:26 PM
crazyboykc, getting the SVS code read will tell you which wheel assy is the problem. Once you know this information, try doing as others have mentioned and unplug/replug the speed sensor connection located right behind the wheel hub assembly. If reseating this connection does not fix your problem, you most likely need a new hub assy.

As I said before, I got one for just over $100 and replaced it myself of the weekend. This fixed my ABS, TC and SVS lights as well as getting rid of a grinding I was hearing while driving due to worn bearings.

If you have an ohm meter, you can probably find out which speed sensor is the culprit by doing a resistance check across the two leads for the speed sensor for each wheel. Most likely you will find one that is much different than the other 3.

carsarecool
11-05-2004, 09:47 AM
"Quick fix", or so it seems- well we all know the n-body problems with the wheel bearings, about 38,000 miles my moms alero made the exact same noise you guys described, a grinding that went with speed of the car, also the ABS/Trac Off lights when backign up or turning the wheel to park. Replaced the right front bearing at a dealer, around $450, brought it back in and they "checked" the ABS problem and told us it was a speed sensor(must've taken the sensor off and put it back on, or scanned it) they wanted to replace the other bearing, $400 BUT since they checked it, the lights HAVE NOT came on at all, they fixed it by accident. although my grand am definietly does that pretty frequently, backing up and low speed parking, i just get a Low Trac light. ive heard it was a combo between Low trac, Trac Off, ABS and SVS depending on the car.

danielcastro
10-04-2005, 05:54 PM
i have the same problem and i got the ODB2 code read and it said :
c:1226 RF Wheel Faster or something like that what can i do?

eaglesrealm
10-04-2005, 05:58 PM
i have the same problem and i got the ODB2 code read and it said :
c:1226 RF Wheel Faster or something like that what can i do?

I don't have a list of fault codes on me, but could it have read RF Wheel Speed Sensor???

danielcastro
10-04-2005, 06:03 PM
I don't have a list of fault codes on me, but could it have read RF Wheel Speed Sensor???
YES IT SAID THAT WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX IT?

pyro
10-04-2005, 06:10 PM
replace the right front wheel speed sensor...aka the whole assembly

eaglesrealm
10-04-2005, 06:32 PM
replace the right front wheel speed sensor...aka the whole assembly


*reads above* What he said :) I did this on my LF hub last year, its not a bad job. As I think I posted last year in this thread, the Wheel Hub from AutoZon was just over $100. You might be able to find it cheaper online or somewhere else...but thats a lot cheaper than the dealer of course. To date, it has held up fine.

Just remember to break free the axle nut before you lift the car :)

windwin
10-08-2005, 08:49 PM
I got a same problems on my Grand AM GT 1999.
Anybody can share more details for DIY.
SVS/ABS/TRAC off lights are on.
so, dear eaglesrealm, would you give me suggestion for repair myself?
Thanks a lot

eaglesrealm
10-09-2005, 11:09 AM
I got a same problems on my Grand AM GT 1999.
Anybody can share more details for DIY.
SVS/ABS/TRAC off lights are on.
so, dear eaglesrealm, would you give me suggestion for repair myself?
Thanks a lot

Windwin - I'm trying to remember what related thread I posted a description in.
The fix itself is fundamentally easy. The hardest part can be pulling off the whell hub assy. Just a pain in the a$$ sometimes to get off. They do make pullers, not sure where you can rent/borrow one from.

The other thing you need to know is which wheel has the bad bearing assy.

Basically, as best I can remember that setup from memory

1) Break free axle nut (AutoZone will lend you an axle nut socket)
2) Remove the wheel
3) Remove the caliper
4) Remove the Rotor
5) Remove the axle nut
6) Unhook the hub assembly speed sensor
7) Remove the hub assembly
8) Install the new hub assembly and rehook up the speed sensor
9) Hand tighten the axle hut
10) Replace rotor, caliper and wheel.
11) Lower car, finished torque on axle nut and wheel lugs.

Thats just what I remember, I make no claims to it's validity LOL

amerpwr
10-17-2005, 08:13 PM
my cv joint went out about a year ago and took it to get fixed..well when i picked it up from the shop my abs light was on so i changed my brakes and made sure both abs plugs on the calipers were plugged in but the light stayed on..so when i swapped my engine out i noticed when the shop took my cv joint out the cut the wires to the plug and never reconnected them

GrandFraggle
11-16-2005, 10:54 AM
I haven't taken a close look at grand am sensors recently but on other type vehicles the ABS sensor is a magnet that detects wheel rotation speed. Usually right next to the bearing. For grand ams it may not be possible but on other types a shot of compressed air to to blow off the metal flecks from the magnet has cures ABS light.

wildblue
12-17-2005, 03:07 PM
I've having the same problem with SVS, ABS, and Trac Off lights coming on on my '02 Grand Am GT. I hope it's not the hub assm. again (I've replaced left and right in the past year, and there's not that tell-tale noise) I reseated the LF and RF speed sensor and hit them both with some compressed air, but the lights are still coming on. They usually don't come on until I've driven for a short time - sometimes 2 minutes, sometimes 10. Any other tricks? It's cold here (I've heard that triggering it) or maybe it's just the abundance of road salt I've been over in the past week. Any other ideas? I borrowed the code reader from the auto parts store, but it said 'no faults found' ?

EDIT: Ok, sometimes the lights are one when I start the car, othertimes it takes a few minutes to kick on. Those minutes could even just be in the time it takes the car to warm up in the garage. Is there a way to at least find out which sensor is tripping it?

tvtech
01-23-2006, 09:36 PM
I had the same problem with my 01 GT. Before spending all the money on hub assemblies, disconnect the sensor assembly plug, spray it with contact cleaner and reconnect. That will most likely solve your problem.

Jgoad2
02-09-2006, 06:35 AM
so i took my car in becuase i was having the same problem abs/svs/trac off. anyways he is a well known mechanic that we have been going to for years and he said it could be the alternator? i have a sub and an alpine amp. but anyways he just called me and said it was the battery that was goin? does anyone else have this problem or heard of it??

eaglesrealm
03-29-2006, 06:08 PM
I want to try this - I've seen several ppl suggest this on this thread but unfortunately I have no clue what to look for. Does someone have a detailed description or a picture of this so i know where to find the sensor assembly plug?


I do not have a picture, but it's not hard to find.

Take off your wheel.
I find it easier to also remove the caliper and rotor, especially the first time you are trying to fumble to see the exact location/connection features of the clip.
Either way, there is a black shield behind your wheel hub assembly. On the shield is the sensor connector you are looking for. You can disconnect the connectors from eachother without removing that assembly from the shield. It just has a release tab that you pull back and pull the connector down towards the ground.

CoopGT
04-02-2006, 01:35 PM
I just had the harness replaced going to 1 of my wheel hubs . You might want to check them . Idiot lights were only coming on when it was wet out.

Ram_Air_Brad
07-28-2006, 06:39 PM
I had the same problem on a 2001 Grand AM SE, my GM dealer said some of the GA's had a sensor on the drivers side behind the wheel (speed sensor i'm guessing) that might not have been factory sealed and the light comes on when moisture gets in the wirring connector. My dealer dried out the connections with a heat gun and then resealed the connection. I haven't had a problem since.

AznGA
08-04-2006, 10:14 AM
How critical is this problem? I have these lights come on randomly once in a while and they dissappear when I shut the car off. No wierd noises from the wheels either. I am planning on living with it.

eaglesrealm
08-04-2006, 01:10 PM
Alright, so I've read this thread multiple times and searched for hours on trying to get my SVS/Trac/ABS lights to go away. Originally I go to Midas(dumb idea) and they tell me "yeah you've got a lot of play in these front two hubs, better replace them". Well, so reading this thread led me to believe hey, yeah that'd make sense. Ok, turns out the actual problem isn't even in the front, nor are my hubs themselves bad. It's the left rear speed/abs sensor. I still need to replace the entire hub though I would assume? Any input would be appreciated-

Sorry that Midas may have led you astray. If you had significant play in your hubs, they still may have needed replacing even though they were not hurting the ABS. The best way to know which to replace is to get the code read, when it's active. Since ABS codes cannot be read with a the basic OBDII readers, you have to go somewhere other than Autozone and have it read. There are some small Mom and Pop's here that will do it really cheap. (Especially if they think you will let them do the work)

A code read should have told you which wheel that was having an issue, and you should have replaced that hub assy. Good luck!!

eaglesrealm
08-04-2006, 01:15 PM
How critical is this problem? I have these lights come on randomly once in a while and they dissappear when I shut the car off. No wierd noises from the wheels either. I am planning on living with it.

If the lights are off, and you need to make a panic stop, your ABS SHOULD still work adequately. I cannot prove that to be the case 100% of the times, but when mine was "randomly" coming on and off, my ABS would still go through the motions of slip control. Even with all the said, I would anticipate the worst case, in which you would still have base brakes, but your ABS will not function correctly or at all.

How critical?!? It's up to you to quantify. I personally want a car with ABS all the time, which is why I replaced both wheel hubs when they started failing. ABS is something I know to be useful and worthwhile, so I make that choice to keep it in working order.

danielcastro
08-12-2006, 12:13 AM
i had same problem with a front speed sensor, i was gonna change the hub, but i found that the problem was just the connector and it wasnt conducting the signal. i hope this helps you. i tried adding some piece of cable on each hole.

ford_man1984
08-17-2006, 02:00 PM
this has happened to me aswell b4 spending any money on it check the tire pressure on both front tires make sure they are the same, thats all my problem the right tire was going 5 kph faster then the left which triggered the speed sensor . amazing what 6 pounds of air can do

MBLAX32
09-06-2006, 03:29 PM
Alright, so how about this one..
Finally got a new hub to replace my rear driver's side one which had gone bad, in turn I was also experiencing the famous "SVS/ABS/Trac" light show display in my dash. So they put the new hub on today, checked the old one and sure enough the sensor had gone bad.. after installing the new one the 3 light parade was still on.. hmm.. strange..

After checking the readout on the new hub it was fine nothing shorted or anything, and a signal from the ABS controller was going out just with no return signal. Turns out there's now a short in the wiring which goes from the rear hub up into the car underneath the back seat, along the door sills, down through the firewall and up underneath the battery where the ABS box is located...

Anyone else have this type of ridiculous crap happen? I love the GA but damn I can't wait to get rid of this one..

gectek
11-23-2006, 10:08 PM
I had a similar problem with both my rear sensors. so here is what i thought. both sensors really cant go out at the same time. I had a scan tool at my school, so i used it through the month. same codes. all 3 lights were on, brake, abs and svs. so if both rear sensors are bad, lets see where the wiring goes. tah dah, wiring harness to rear bulkhead connector. ordered a new wiring harness for that, like $28, came with clips and everything installed in all the right locations, go to take old one out and what did i find...a bunch of water and trash was held up in the wire loom. I think this is the root cause of alot of these types of failures. so i took the old harness out, put the new one in, before i plugged the new one in, put di-electric grease in the connector plugs, plugged them in, and its Ronco Time...set it and forget itno problems since, that was 8 months ago, also cuz a few holes in the loom to drain the water so it wont set up.

Metallman56
12-12-2006, 01:57 PM
does anyone know of a national chain that can scan the SVS light for free? also, so far in this post, that i have read, there are a lot of things that seem to cause this problem.

Tire Presure
Wheel Hub
Rear Wiring Harness
Front Left Speed Sensor
Front Right Speed Sensor
Bad/Dirty Connection on the Speed Sensor.

gectek
12-13-2006, 07:02 PM
there is an easy way to test the wheel speed sensors. disconnect the wheel speed sensor(s) and check for the resistance on the sensor itself. the resistance should be between 1000 Ohms and 1200 Ohms. if that is good, life the vehicle and turn the tire fairly fast, book says 1 rev per second, and measure the voltage output in millivolts, it should be more than 100mV at that speed. if it doesnt measure that then replace the WSS.

if it does then you are on to checking the power and ground to the EBCM and the WSS harness side. it is alot easier to have the code read by a technician with a good scan tool, that way you can tell which sensor/wiring you are looking at

GrandSlamGT
12-26-2006, 08:34 PM
Well this has just started happening with my 2002 GT. I only have 65k miles on it. I recently replaced pads and rotors on the car. A couple months later now both lights are on (ABS and Trac Off). I can hear a slight humming, almost not noticable above 45mph so I'm sure a hub assembly is going south. Also when I go to brake while in slow traffic, such as in town, I will get a loud buzz and my brake pedal will push back on me. When this happens, my lights immediatly come on. It seems this is a very common problem, and I think GM should do something about this.

blundon
03-13-2007, 03:55 PM
I got a same problems on my Grand AM GT 1999.
Anybody can share more details for DIY.
SVS/ABS/TRAC off lights are on.
so, dear eaglesrealm, would you give me suggestion for repair myself?
Thanks a lot

ahhh the good old n-body wheel bearing trubles...all of these complaints are all prity much the same.. most of the time the fix is replace the wheels beraring hub kit....but this wont always work..the good old grand ams have an ebcm witch is located behind the front left fender skirt this is a really bad place for carrosion....so u might wanna pull back the skirt and see what the connector and everthing is like...all it may be in the sensor harness. so u could do a check on that. anyways heres a flow chart to help find the problem.....if u guys need anyother codes check or any questions just e-mail me at blundon_19@hotmail.com



DTC C1226 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation




Circuit Description
As a toothed ring passes by the wheel speed sensor, changes in the electromagnetic field cause the wheel speed sensor to produce an AC voltage signal. The frequency of the AC voltage signal is proportional to the wheel speed. The amplitude of the AC voltage signal is directly related to wheel speed and the proximity of the wheel speed sensor to the toothed ring. The proximity of the wheel speed sensor to the toothed ring is also referred to as the air gap.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
DTC C1226 can set when the brake is OFF.

DTC C1226 detects a situation in which the right front wheel acceleration or deceleration is beyond specified limits.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
A malfunction DTC stores.
The ABS disables.
The ABS warning indicator turns ON.
Conditions for Clearing the DTC
The condition responsible for setting the DTC no longer exists and the Scan Tool Clear DTCs function is used.
100 drive cycles pass with no DTCs detected. A drive cycle consists of starting the vehicle, driving the vehicle over 16 km/h (10 mph), stopping and then turning the ignition OFF.
Diagnostic Aids
The following conditions may cause an intermittent malfunction:

A poor connection
Rubbed-through wire insulation
A broken wire inside the insulation
Use the enhanced diagnostic function of the Scan Tool in order to measure the frequency of the malfunction.

If the customer's comments reflect that the amber ABS warning indicator is ON only during moist environmental changes (rain, snow, vehicle wash), inspect all the wheel speed sensor circuitry for signs of water intrusion. If the DTC is not current, clear all DTCs and simulate the effects of water intrusion by using the following procedure:

Spray the suspected area with a five percent saltwater solution. Add two teaspoons of salt to twelve ounces of water to make a five percent saltwater solution.
Test drive the vehicle over various road surfaces (bumps, turns, etc.) above 24 km/h (15 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
If the DTC returns, replace the suspected harness.
Thoroughly inspect any circuitry that may be causing the intermittent complaint for the following conditions:

Backed out terminals
Improper mating
Broken locks
Improperly formed or damaged terminals
Poor terminal-to-wiring connections
Physical damage to the wiring harness
Resistance of the wheel speed sensor will increase with an increase in sensor temperature.

Use the following procedure when replacing a wheel speed sensor or harness:

Inspect the wheel speed sensor terminals and harness connector for corrosion and/or water intrusion.
The wheel speed sensor and jumper harness should be replaced if evidence of corrosion or water intrusion exists.
Test Description
This test checks the wheel speed sensor for the proper resistance value.

This test ensures that the wheel speed sensor generates the proper voltage.

This test checks for a short between the wheel speed sensor high and low circuits.

This test determines if a wheel speed sensor circuit could be shorted when the EBCM is connected.

Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

Important: Zero the J 39200 test leads before making any resistance measurements. Refer to the J 39200 user's manual.


Important: Difficulty may occur when trying to locate intermittent malfunctions in the wheel speed sensor circuit.
Do not disturb any of the electrical connections. Change the electrical connections only when instructed to do so by a step in the diagnostic table.


1
Was the ABS Diagnostic System Check performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS

2
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Inspect the right front wheel speed sensor and the right front wheel speed sensor harness connector for physical damage.
Is there any physical damage?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 3

3
Inspect the following components for physical damage:

The right front wheel speed sensor jumper harness

The right front wheel speed sensor jumper harness connectors

Is there any physical damage?
--
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 4

4
Disconnect the right front wheel speed sensor directly at the right front wheel speed sensor connector.
Use the J 39200 with the J 35616 in order to measure the resistance between the right front wheel speed sensor connector terminal A and the right front wheel speed sensor connector terminal B.
Is the resistance within the specified range?
1040-1160 ohms
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 16

5
Select the A/C VOLTAGE scale on the J 39200 .
Spin the right front wheel by hand while observing the voltage reading on the J 39200 .
Is the voltage equal to or greater than the specified voltage?
100 mV
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 16

6
Disconnect the EBCM connector.
Use the J 39200 with the J 35616 in order to measure the resistance between the EBCM connector terminal 9 and the EBCM connector terminal 22.
Is the resistance within the specified range?
OL

(Infinite)
Go to Step 7
Go to Step 8

7
Inspect the EBCM connector for the following conditions:
- Damage

- Poor terminal contact

- Terminal corrosion (These conditions may cause a short between the EBCM connector terminal 9 and the EBCM connector terminal 22.

Inspect the remaining terminals of the EBCM connector for the following conditions:
- Damage

- Poor terminal contact

- Terminal corrosion

Are there signs of poor terminal contact, corrosion, or damaged terminals?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 8

8
Inspect the wiring of CKT 872 and CKT 833 for signs of damage that may cause a short between CKT 872 and CKT 833.

Are there any signs of damaged wiring?
--
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 9

9
Inspect the harness connectors of CKT 872 and CKT 833 for signs of damage that may cause a short between CKT 872 and CKT 833.

Are there any signs of damaged connectors?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 10

10
Reconnect the EBCM harness connector.
Reconnect the right front wheel speed sensor harness connector.
Install a Scan Tool .
Test drive the vehicle at a speed above 24 km/h (15 mph) for at least 30 seconds.
Use the Scan Tool in order to read the DTCs.
Does DTC C1226 set as a current DTC?
--
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 18

11
Select the Data Display on the Scan Tool .
Select ABS Data.
Monitor the wheel speed sensor speeds.
Use the following procedure to drive the vehicle when testing the wheel speed sensor:
Slowly accelerate to 65 km/h (40 mph).
Slowly decelerate to 0 km/h (0 mph).
Is the speed of the right front wheel speed sensor constantly higher or lower than the speed of the three remaining wheel speed sensors?
--
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 17

12
Replace all of the terminals that exhibit signs of poor terminal contact, corrosion, or damaged terminal(s). Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

13
Replace the damaged wiring harness that causes the short between CKT 872 and CKT 833. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

14
Replace the damaged wiring harness connectors that cause the short between CKT 872 and CKT 833. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

15
Replace the right front wheel speed sensor jumper harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Jumper Harness Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

16
Replace the right front wheel speed sensor. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

17
Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS
--

18
The malfunction is intermittent or is not present at this time.

Refer to Diagnostic Aids for more information.

Is the action complete?
--
System OK
--



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

iceman
04-25-2007, 11:42 AM
Does anyone know if the "AutoTap" OBD2 scanner can scan ABS codes, and if it can, how?

Autotap can only query the PCM. It cost what, like $265? I sold mine and got a tricom from www.obd-2.com, it will talk to all devices on the class 2 bus, including abs, ebc, pcm, bcm, radio, blah blah. and it costs less.

yahuli
05-04-2007, 12:33 AM
Ok, how about this?

I've been having the same problem (ABS/TRAC OFF/SVS lights) with my 2000 GA SE since I first bought it and have discovered that disconnecting and reseating the connectors takes care of things for a short while. Then during inclimate weather (rain, snow, etc) it begins acting up again. What do you guy think about this?

1. Unplug sensor connectors
2. Spray with contact cleaner/WD40 to help remove corrosion or dampness
3. Plug connectors back in
4. Coat plug ends (where wires go into the connectors) and area where the plugs butt together with some silicone caulking in order to deter further moisture infiltration.
5. let vehicle sit over night for caulking to cure.

Do you think that this is a viable solution, or is there something better to keep the dampness out of these connectors?

Thanks!

iceman
05-04-2007, 01:08 AM
Also.. dielectric grease, don't caulk electrical connectors

yahuli
05-04-2007, 05:44 PM
Also.. dielectric grease, don't caulk electrical connectors

right- I was talking about putting the caulking on the outside of the connectors where moisture might seep in. I definitely wouldn't caulk the actual electrical connections- that's just stupid. But yes, dielectric grease is a great idea for on those- thanks! :applause:

iceman
05-05-2007, 05:57 AM
Still, I would not do that. To take apart the connector if you have to do it, means the wire coming out the back. I would still shove dielectric grease in there, it will do the trick, I promise :)

wtselig07
11-27-2007, 05:05 PM
Had the same problem and I am a mechanic.

The wires going into the sensors have a tendancy to stretch and eventually break with the turning of the wheel. They tell you not to try and fix them and will try to sell you the whole hub assembly just for the abs connecter and wire.
Just pop the wheel off and thouroughly inspect them before doing anything. If anything of the wires are broken just solder them back together and make sure you use heat shrink. (This isn't done by mechanics because 1. Going by the book you're not supposed to repair any ABS wire. and 2. It covers our a**es so we don't get comebacks.) They say soldering the wires adds resistance to the wire and doesn't give proper ABS wheel speed readings yada yada yada but it works fine for people that don't have a lot of money to waste. I had to do it on mine and thus far no further problems. Just because the insulation isn't torn apart doesn't mean the copper wire inside isn't broken.

Any other questions feel free to ask...

FunkZ
02-01-2008, 12:27 PM
We had icy slush on the roads this morning to contend with and on the way to work I had the ABS, CVS and Trac Off lights come on. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted to clear them but after driving a short distance they came back on. Did this a total of 4 times. While the lights were on neither the traction control nor ABS was working. Didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating, braking or just driving as to what was triggering it.

So anyway I had it scanned, fully expecting it to be something in the front but the tech said it came up with both rear wheel sensor codes. So since this is the first time this has done this in the 3 weeks owning the car, and just coincidentally the first real inclement weather I've driven the car in, what's the chances it is simply ice/water got into the sensor connector? Guess I'll try blowing out the connector with compressed air and then using something like dielectric grease, see if that fixes it?

gectek
02-01-2008, 11:22 PM
I had a similar problem with both my rear sensors. so here is what i thought. both sensors really cant go out at the same time. I had a scan tool at my school, so i used it through the month. same codes. all 3 lights were on, brake, abs and svs. so if both rear sensors are bad, lets see where the wiring goes. tah dah, wiring harness to rear bulkhead connector. ordered a new wiring harness for that, like $28, came with clips and everything installed in all the right locations, go to take old one out and what did i find...a bunch of water and trash was held up in the wire loom. I think this is the root cause of alot of these types of failures. so i took the old harness out, put the new one in, before i plugged the new one in, put di-electric grease in the connector plugs, plugged them in, and its Ronco Time...set it and forget itno problems since, that was 8 months ago, also cuz a few holes in the loom to drain the water so it wont set up.

quoted for validity...try and open the harness and see if there is water or trash in it or not...

mekaneck
02-07-2008, 11:44 PM
I love it when I get great information from these type of forums, especially from newbies.

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showpost.php?p=867537&postcount=40

excellent post. I measured my GF's wheel sensors. Much higher than 1160 ohms. Replaced RF wheel hub. Saved $400 from dealer. Keep up the good work!

Point of reply?
GOOD JOB BLUNDON!

Ajaxus
02-16-2008, 07:09 PM
So I get the intermittent SVS/ABS deal, is it the same if it's just an intermittent SVS light only with no ABS?

Cause I've been getting that alot the last few days..

gectek
02-17-2008, 01:35 PM
alot of times the svs light is the daytime running lamps are not working correctly, like a blown bulb or something

Ajaxus
02-17-2008, 07:51 PM
alot of times the svs light is the daytime running lamps are not working correctly, like a blown bulb or something

that would make sense..condensation finally blew one of my bulbs..new headlights/bulbs in the spring ftmfw?

thanks

gectek
02-17-2008, 11:15 PM
de nacho, and dont ask me how i know that GM has an actual trouble code for blown headlamp and or DRLs not working properly...they laugh when u pull the car in the stall the relay clicks and only one light goes on and ur going through the scan tool looking for codes and a guy goes hey your light isnt working

xrw600
03-27-2008, 01:59 PM
I had that EXACT same problem. And for a long time just couldnt figure it out. When i was under my car i checked the connectors for my wheel speed sensors, they looked pretty good, not dirty or anything. after about three times looking underneath, i happend to look at the wires where they go into the hub. I had a severed wire, it was causing it to loose connection when i hit a bump or hit a little water. So i took and soldered the wire back into place. It's a pretty tight spot, had to take the tire off to get to it, but that fixed it for a while. But later on the lights came back on, this time i had a feeling it might be the connector. It was on my Passenger front rim, so i took and cut the connector off and re-wired a brand new one. Wrapped it and insulated it with silicone. I've never had a problem since. Hope this helps. Just keep in mind, just cause the connector looks ok, it might not be.

Dirtball
04-06-2008, 09:01 PM
I had noticed more "road noise" in the last week, and now I assume I know why. Since I have more noise AND my abs/svs/trac off lights are coming on should I just assume that I have a hub going bad, or should I take the time to crawl under and check wires? It's DEFINITELY making more roadgoing noise.

Money is really tight for us right now... trying to figure this out and avoid the dealer...

Thanks in advance for ideas/opinions... I know you can't diagnose over a computer, I'm just looking for opinions, folks...

bryanw0087
04-06-2008, 10:03 PM
Yeah thats def a bad hub, i had the same problem twice now, and its always been a bad hub

Dirtball
04-07-2008, 07:41 AM
Can you check these hubs the old-fashioned way... jacking a corner up and lifting up and down on the tire to feel for play? If I spin the tire am I likely to hear a difference in the bad one with no load on the bearing and few RPMs on the hub? I've never owned a vehicle with sealed hubs before. I know I can do the work once I determine the bad one.

Is the dealer the only place to get that code read? Someone earlier in this thread asked if there was any other place but I didn't see an answer.

Ajaxus
04-07-2008, 11:19 AM
Can you check these hubs the old-fashioned way... jacking a corner up and lifting up and down on the tire to feel for play? If I spin the tire am I likely to hear a difference in the bad one with no load on the bearing and few RPMs on the hub? I've never owned a vehicle with sealed hubs before. I know I can do the work once I determine the bad one.

Is the dealer the only place to get that code read? Someone earlier in this thread asked if there was any other place but I didn't see an answer.

Some places like autozone or pepboys or even local parts stores will offer services to scan for codes. If they don't around you, I'm sure they could probably direct you to someone who can.

Dirtball
04-07-2008, 11:46 AM
My local Autozone scans for sEs codes but not sVs codes, unfortunately... I had it checked and they got NO codes. I think someone earlier in this thread mentioned that they only check sEs, but it was old enough that I had hoped that had changed. I might go back and see, making sure I know what they need to check for now. We also have O'Reilly's and Advance nearby... need I try them instead?

Thanks for the response.

Ajaxus
04-07-2008, 01:00 PM
Hm, can't remember if O'Reilly's does scans or not, it wouldn't hurt to check. And like I said, if they don't do the scans or in this case not the right scans, ask them if they know anyone who does (and at affordable prices)..that way you don't end up driving all over and wasting your own time and money.

Lab Rat
04-07-2008, 01:09 PM
Try Midas or a bigger chian brake shop. They may scan you for no fee or cheaper than the dealer. Pretty sure the code will say which sensor, then replace that hub.

Dirtball
04-07-2008, 01:11 PM
LOL... which is why I queried if you could check them the old fashioned way.

I appreciate the advice and will act upon it. Our Autozone actually has a couple of oldtimers who know their stuff and who have lived in our small town all their lives. If anyone knows the proper place to send me it'll be one of them.

SSRacer
04-07-2008, 02:08 PM
I'm having this problem intermittently as well. Pretty sure it's just the sensor or wires on mine. A few years ago my mom got run off the road in my car and hit a large mound of concrete. It broke the aluminum steering knuckle on the pass side and she drove it two blocks to home like that. I replaced the knuckle with one from a junk yard, new hub, new lower ball joint and new half shaft.

My guess is I have some not so perfect wires under there too.

Caputo777
04-14-2008, 01:35 PM
I just brought my car to the shop last week for this problem (yet again) and they read 2 codes...one was to replace the front left assembly..so they did hoping both the codes they got (one was a history code whatever that means) would go away.

Within minutes of picking my car up the 3 lights came back on so I brought it back in today. I just got a call that they are still getting the one code but need to do probably 1-2 hours of diagnosing to figure out the problem.

In the past when I've had my assemblies replaced it would take care of the problem - does what I've been told today make any sense to anyone? I don't know what else could possibly be throwing that same combination of lights: SVS, ABS and Trac off.

bryanw0087
04-14-2008, 02:27 PM
I just brought my car to the shop last week for this problem (yet again) and they read 2 codes...one was to replace the front left assembly..so they did hoping both the codes they got (one was a history code whatever that means) would go away.

Within minutes of picking my car up the 3 lights came back on so I brought it back in today. I just got a call that they are still getting the one code but need to do probably 1-2 hours of diagnosing to figure out the problem.

In the past when I've had my assemblies replaced it would take care of the problem - does what I've been told today make any sense to anyone? I don't know what else could possibly be throwing that same combination of lights: SVS, ABS and Trac off.

possibly a exposed wire is gounding? or getting water on it somewhere along the lines causing it to send the error code?

Caputo777
04-19-2008, 08:46 AM
possibly a exposed wire is gounding? or getting water on it somewhere along the lines causing it to send the error code?

Well the ended up finding that the terminal in my battery was stripped and I was only getting 8 volts of power causing an ABS issue when I'd hit the breaks. They replaced the battery and some wiring and now the guy is saying the lights will come on and off randomly while driving...thats worrisome because it seems like this problem always involved coming on and then staying on until you turned the car off. I don't even know where he's planning to go at this point...

plastic_indian
04-28-2008, 08:08 PM
N bodies (not to mention C, G, K and W) are notorious for front hub problems. The ABS wheel speed sensor is integral to the hub. Typically, code C12xx stored is an indicator of a hub/speed sensor failure. Of note, TSB 03-04-18-001 indicates availability of a revised axle nut and revised torque specification to help prolong the life of these hubs. GM P/N for the nut is 10289657 (new nut is silver, old nut was a black unit with a sheetmetal cage) and torque spec is 173 lb ft (old unit spec was 284).

This is a pretty critical part, folks, and your safety is on the line. Don't buy the cheapo AZ part. If you can't afford a dealer or genuine Delco unit, at least get a premium line from napa (BRG line code, an SKF unit) or carquest.

All this is not to say that a 'trac' light means you have a bad hub, but it's certainly a likely culprit.

Caputo777
04-29-2008, 02:50 PM
Well the ended up finding that the terminal in my battery was stripped and I was only getting 8 volts of power causing an ABS issue when I'd hit the breaks. They replaced the battery and some wiring and now the guy is saying the lights will come on and off randomly while driving...thats worrisome because it seems like this problem always involved coming on and then staying on until you turned the car off. I don't even know where he's planning to go at this point...

Well I am stuck with those lights for the rest of the time I decide to keep my GA...apparently after ruling out everything else he determined it must be a problem with the controller...said he soaked it with some dielectric grease hoping for the best...nothing. He said replacing the controller would be $2000+ seeing as how my car is 8 years old and has 107k on it, I'm not even considering that.

surreal_awakeni
04-29-2008, 05:07 PM
Assuming that it actually is the control module (I might consider a second opinion), GM Parts Direct has the control module for a 2000 Grand Am listed at $494. And I can guaran-****in-teeee that there's not $1500 worth of labor involved. I think there's a slight difference between 99 and 2000 models, but 99 only lists .8 hours of shop time to replace the module.

Edit: I stripped a 2000 GAGT for parts a few years back and if memory serves me correctly, it was set up the same as the 99 Alero I have. The control module is inside the drivers fender. Remove the plastic inner fender, then look behind the washer reservoir. 2 bolts hold it in. Pull it out, unplug it, reverse the procedure to put it back together. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this for the 2000 models.

landa220
08-14-2008, 10:18 AM
I had the same problem (occaisional lights, etc.) for quite a while. After replacing several hubs and still having the warnings after a short period of time I decided on attacking the connection as well.

THIS time I focused on the ABS wiring harness (connector) on the hub. I disconnected it, cleaned it very well, then used some radio tuner cleaner on it. You know the good old spray stuff we used to use on radio volume controls to clean it and stop the static, etc.

Then I let it dry, then reconnected it and used several layers of heat resistant electrical tape etc. to hold it firmly in place.

It's been two years, and I haven't had another ABS/Trac Off light come on.

Hope this helps,

Landa

KNIGHTRDRX
12-23-2008, 11:00 AM
My car is in the shop for those reasons now.
I had my front brake pads replaced and on the way home the 3 lights came on.
I went back the next day and blamed the mechanic. there was no way these came on by coincidence. He tried to reset the lights but it didn't work.
Finally the owner did a code check and explained it has nothing to do with changing the brake pads. The wire is bad on the left side for the sensor. I did notice a month ago i was hearing some creaky sounds from the left wheel when i turned the wheel...then it went away..That probably has nothing to do with it.

The list price is $140 for the wheel bearing and he gave me a discount on the labor.\\

On a side note, I was also stunned to find my Remsa Ceramic front Brake pads which I bought in April and had installed at a garage , were worn out just 15,000 miles later.
While the previous two standard sets on the car lasted 50,000 miles each.

djcrowd
01-09-2009, 12:12 AM
coulde be the bearing he came with the abs sensor he might be finished

ga2001gt532
01-20-2009, 08:43 PM
i got the same problem i replaced the right one about a month ago but my lights only come on when i crank the wheel all the way to the right but never to the left could it be just a short in the wire somewhere. also my brake light comes on and my curise control won't work when that happens

Mattyj724
02-08-2009, 07:15 PM
wheel speed sensors i think in all of the grand ams are messed up, thats what kept throwing my light on

Izzy
03-11-2009, 11:38 PM
Is your ABS, TRAC, and SES light on? If they are on steadily, more than likely the wires to your wheel speed sensors have become brittle due to water, salt, ect... If they come on and off, followed by a shifty jerk then more than likely the wires are falling apart and the lights will soon be on constantly. I've seen this a thousand time like this and bought 99-00 GAGT's off people simply because a garage said it was going to cost more than they thought the car was worth. You can fix this for under $100 with a couple ordinary car tools, a second jack, and some loaner tools from Autozone....that's right! Loaners. Autozone will loan you the hub puller and 34mm axle nut socket, you will however be asked to put a deposit down on them, which will be completely refunded to you when returned. http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/6434/loanerpartsfromautozone.jpg

Don't bother asking Autozone to run a scan using their scan-tool to assess the codes. ABS codes will not show-up. One of these days maybe they will combine the 2 systems and we'll be able to read them with one affordable scan-tool. But, no worries, 9 out of 10 times it's the front-right speed sensor. You can use an inexpensive (under $10) DVOM (digital voltmeter) to test them, just make sure it can measure up to 2000 ohms.

Now, it would be a lot easier to be in a garage with a hydraulic lift to test each wheel, but it can be done simply by jacking them up and testing them individually. Start with the front-right. After taking the wheel off, find the wires leading out the back-left side (as you are facing it). http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2476/speedsensorlocation.jpg
Use a flat headed screw driver to pry apart the silver clip holding the sensor connectors onto the splash shield and then disconnect them. Once disconnected, set your DVOM to 2000 ohms and place the leads on the terminals inside the connector to the speed sensor as shown, doesn't matter what order when testing resistance. http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7229/testingspeedsensor.jpg
A new hub assembly will usually register between 1050 and 1250 ohms. I've seen some others a little higher and some a little lower, older, worn ones will usually register a bit lower. Now if you have an intermittent ABS light, use some alligator clips to hook-up the DVOM to the leads and move the wires around to see if the reading on the DVOM shorts (reading "0"). Sometimes the break in the wire is close to the connectors, in which case if you are familiar with soldering you can repair the break by doing so. However, if the break is close to the axle, I would advise against it, due to the proximity of the axle to the sensor wires. If you get a reading of "0" when testing the sensor, there's a short somewhere in the connection from the terminals in the connector to the wires leading to the sensor. If you get a "1" when testing the sensor, it's a bad sensor. As you can see in the following pic, there are a lot of ways for water, salt, and corrosives to get into the connector and wire housing as seen below. While you are testing the speed sensor, you might as well check the resistance through the connector leading to the computer just to make sure there isn't a short that way or in the computer board. You should get a reading of "1" on all when checking this. http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1589/testingwirestocomputer.jpg
After testing all speed sensors for the proper resistance, if they all check out, you may want to purchase an ABS code reader before continuing. This will give you an indication where the break in the wiring is. The code will tell you which sensor is bad and then you can follow the electric to find where the problem is. If you get a reading of "0" or "1" across one of the sensors, you'll have to order the whole wheel hub assembly. The sensor, bearings, and hub cannot be replaced separately. They are all one piece. Autozone sells them for around $110, you can order them at this link for $86.51 plus tax with free shipping to 48 states. http://www.thecarpartwarehouse.com/chevy-malibu-pontiac-grand-am-olds-alero-cutlass-hub-hub--h009-item.html
Once you receive the new sensor, test it right out of the box. Make sure it is within specs (usually around 1100 ohms). If it's not, return it. Once you have a good hub assembly, you need to start taking the other off. This should take about an hour, maybe two if you are new at it. [NOT ALL OF MY PRACTICES ARE SAFE. I JUST USE WHAT I GOT AROUND ME. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CAR IS SUPPORTED IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE APPLYING A LOT OF FORCE TO IT SO IT DOESN'T FALL ON YOU OR ON THE GROUND] After the car is jacked up, put the wheel under the chassis, just behind the wheel well by the front passenger door, or use some stands. Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on, as shown below. http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2863/removingcaliperbolts.jpg You don't need to compress the caliper piston, just slide it off the rotor and set it down on something so you aren't stretching the hose.
Remove rotor and splash shield. Place 34mm axle nut socket over axle nut and hit a couple times with a hammer until socket is on the axle nut far enough so it doesn't fall off. Don't pound all the way on or you'll have some fun getting it out. Connect to wrench and remove. You may need to place an extension bar over the axle wrench to get it moving. http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2822/removingaxlenut.jpg
Once axle nut is removed, place hub puller to face of hub and tighten 3 wheel nuts over the bolts through the hub puller. Using your wheel nut wrench, tighten the screw into the hub puller to push the axle back out of the bad hub assembly. http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4636/pullinghubassembly.jpg Your hub assembly won't move at all, while the axle will be pushed back out of it. Once backed out, remove hub puller. Now take out the three bolts holding the hub assembly on. http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8149/3bolts.jpg This is where I used a second jack to raise the arm to remove the top nut to the hub assembly. http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6623/jackituptogetitoff.jpg After all bolts are removed, you may need to use the flat head screwdriver and a hammer to help loosen the hub assembly. Don't worry about damaging it, there's pretty much nothing you can do to fix it, and more than likely (especially if it's a front hub) the bearings probably needed to be replaced anyway. Once old hub is removed, you may need to do a bit of cleaning. Take some steel wool or if you're lucky enough to have a dremmel, clean the flange surfaces, wipe off, and apply a bit of dielectric grease to prevent any water from seeping in. You can also apply some of this to the top of and any areas of the connectors where water could penetrate it. Then wrap the wires with some electrical tape.
Once cleaned, put splash shield back and insert new hub assembly, being careful of the placement of the wires to the connector. You want them near the top, or the wires will be stretched and more than likely the same thing will occur as soon as you make a sharp turn. http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1066/hubinstall.jpg Make sure grooves line up and push axle from back slightly. Put axle nut back on and tighten, this will pull axle back into position. reconnect speed sensor connectors and push clip back onto splash shield. Put rotor back on, slide caliper back into place (should slide back in) and tighten bolts. Put wheel back on, and start up the car. Your ABS lights might not even come on, if they are you may need to take the car for a drive around the block above 10 mph. The lights should clear up automatically, but if they still come on, recheck the connections. The terminals may not have aligned in the connectors, or you might have 2 bad sensors. Good luck, have fun!

PhantomLover007
03-12-2009, 03:16 PM
Nice guide man.

DefaZe
03-12-2009, 04:09 PM
Could this have happened if I was drifting into a bunch of snowbanks and completely filled my wheels and under body with snow? What that guide right there says fits my exact situation to the tee, except it's my SVS not SES light that's on.

landa220
03-13-2009, 09:05 AM
Excellent tutorial. I can testify, it's not that hard of a job with the right tools.

I even got a lifetime warranty on the hubs, (Murray's Discount Auto) which I utilized a couple of times until I realized my problem was the connections.

Good work.

chuckclose1
05-25-2009, 01:16 PM
I am having the same problem. ABS, Trac Off and SVS lights come on occasionally. Already took it to a mechanic, who hooked it up to a computer, and told me he could find nothing. Should the sensor be replaced maybe?

exactly what my car di last night. when i turned the car off and on again it was out. it came on when i made a sharp u turn and hit the brakes at the end of the turn

RPO3
05-26-2009, 05:46 PM
Eww, that old bearing needed jesus

neo10246
07-05-2009, 09:57 PM
This happened to me for about six months and then the lights just stayed on all the time. Turns out it was the wheel hub assembly and the mechanic has to hook it up to a ABS computer for a reading not the usual code reader. Also the wheels were making an irritating humming noise for the last month before repairing. One hub cost me $290.00.

realestdriver
08-01-2009, 07:02 PM
My problems is I have the trac/abs light, but no SVS light(I know it works). The light used to come on every few days, but now it is on as soon as I crank the car. My passenger side wheel bearing has been replaced twice, but I'm not sure about the driver side. Connections have been checks. I hate being without traction control right now; its been raining for the past two weeks. Maybe I'll replace the driver side, any suggestions before I do that.

mekaneck
12-08-2009, 05:53 PM
In case this happens to anyone else: I replaced the front left hub 2 years ago, and the ABS light recently came back on. After taking off the wheel, I could see that the ABS wire had somehow got caught on something and it was sheared off. Meaning even if I replaced the hub, there was nothing for the hub to plug into. So I needed a new hub as well as a new wiring harness. The dealer wanted $150 for the harness, but after looking around, I found one for $30 at rockauto.com. The OEM part number (for my '02 GT) was 12167654 (L) and 12167653 (R). Dorman makes replacements, and their part numbers are 970008 (L) and 970009 (R). Search for these Dorman numbers on rockauto and you will find the part. You can also get them at Autozone for $45 but they are a special order item.

landa220
12-08-2009, 07:05 PM
In case this happens to anyone else: I replaced the front left hub 2 years ago, and the ABS light recently came back on. After taking off the wheel, I could see that the ABS wire had somehow got caught on something and it was sheared off. Meaning even if I replaced the hub, there was nothing for the hub to plug into. So I needed a new hub as well as a new wiring harness. The dealer wanted $150 for the harness, but after looking around, I found one for $30 at rockauto.com. The OEM part number (for my '02 GT) was 12167654 (L) and 12167653 (R). Dorman makes replacements, and their part numbers are 970008 (L) and 970009 (R). Search for these Dorman numbers on rockauto and you will find the part. You can also get them at Autozone for $45 but they are a special order item.

Wow! That's great news, thanks. I'm going to look into that immediately since my low traction light comes on regularly as well as my ABS... light. This is after I've replaced and reconnected my harnesses too many times to do it again. I think it's just old and worn out.

The option of replacing the harness/wire as you did sounds like it will fix my problem. I'm on it! I'll let you all know how it goes.

Thanks again.

Oh! I almost forgot to ask, did you install the new part yourself? How difficult was it? I'm wondering where does the other end of this harness connect too since I've never considered replacing it.

mlog
12-08-2009, 09:59 PM
My ABS light came on intermittently, often when I turned a corner, and it was a failed hub assembly (wheel bearing) on one side.

mekaneck
12-14-2009, 05:09 PM
Oh! I almost forgot to ask, did you install the new part yourself? How difficult was it? I'm wondering where does the other end of this harness connect too since I've never considered replacing it.

Yeah, I actually ended up getting the part from O'Reilly Auto for $36.99 because I could get it sooner. But yes, I installed it myself. The harness just has the plug on one end that goes into the brake hub, and then just wires on the other. It comes with crimp connectors, so you basically just cut off the existing harness on the car (the new harness is long enough to route up to near the back of the headlight, where the ABS harness joins a bundle of other wires), and crimp on the new piece. It was pretty easy. I removed the small splash shield that was in front of the control arm, on the inside of the wheel well. Just have to remove two bolts and two push-in fasteners, and it comes out. This gives you access to see where the ABS harness on your car routes to. It's also where I made the splice, since it's a pretty protected area, above the frame rail and inside the splash shield. You don't want to just cut off the harness on the control arm because your splice would be sitting right there constantly bombarded with rocks, rain, ice, etc.

So if you have a wrench and a pair of wire cutters & crimpers, you can do this job easily.

landa220
12-14-2009, 07:08 PM
Excellent, thanks for the info.

I'm going to do it since I'm sick and tired of those lights coming on every time I turn the wheels or so. It's just that it's gonna be in the '20's temperature wise here in Michigan for a while. I have to weigh how much I want to get under the car on cold concrete to do it. lol

Thanks again.

76TA01GAGT
01-24-2010, 03:07 PM
To check myself, we read 1050 drivers front, 0 on passenger front, around 1100 passenger rear and again about 1100 drivers rear. So, about 99.9% changing the passenger front hub will fix this (SVS, ABS, traction control light)? Thanks for comments, I am tryin to not just throw money at this car, but it seams like its happenin anyway...........

76TA01GAGT
02-06-2010, 12:34 PM
Update, received a new front hub, took the tire off and wired the new one up, started car and no lights, problem verified! Now all I have to do is actually change it, next weekends project........

03GAGTdriver
02-17-2010, 06:40 PM
I have a similar problem with my 03 GT, and I'm looking for answers to this problem. I have the same 3 lights (SVS, ABS, Trac off) but I also get a brake light along with it occasionally. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas about this. I have replaced almost everything on this car, it's starting to get ridiculous, but i love the car so much. Info would be appreciated. My next step is to check all the wires and module to see the condition these are in. Little history on this car in the past year has been 2 new hubs up front, master cylinder, lower intake gasket.

2000 GT Coupe
02-17-2010, 08:58 PM
a good first step would be to read the abs computer, see what the problem is.

76TA01GAGT
02-20-2010, 10:54 AM
FYI, if you have a gear puller it will work inplace of the hub puller. Project took about 45 minutes total. **the information above it the only reason it went so quick, thanks to all those who posted!

djkm
05-22-2010, 12:57 AM
I had a similar problem with both my rear sensors. so here is what i thought. both sensors really cant go out at the same time. I had a scan tool at my school, so i used it through the month. same codes. all 3 lights were on, brake, abs and svs. so if both rear sensors are bad, lets see where the wiring goes. tah dah, wiring harness to rear bulkhead connector. ordered a new wiring harness for that, like $28, came with clips and everything installed in all the right locations, go to take old one out and what did i find...a bunch of water and trash was held up in the wire loom. I think this is the root cause of alot of these types of failures. so i took the old harness out, put the new one in, before i plugged the new one in, put di-electric grease in the connector plugs, plugged them in, and its Ronco Time...set it and forget itno problems since, that was 8 months ago, also cuz a few holes in the loom to drain the water so it wont set up.

where is this bulkhead connector located? thanks

GrandAmGTTT
01-02-2011, 07:38 AM
what would cause my traction control and ABS lights to go off but throw no codes for it.....?

madmike77
02-16-2011, 03:44 PM
the wheel hub assembly's go on these cars alot i have a 2002 and have 70,000 miles and i replaced the fronts twice in 5 years the first time i got raped by a mechanic the second time i did it myself you can get them for around 100 bucks and if you ever put together a model car when you were younger you very well should be able to replace them your self especially if you have access to air tools. you dont need any gear pullers or crap like that your hands should be able to pull the old one out and put it in the new ones the 3 bolts that hold them in are behind the hub and i believe need to be torqed to 70 lbs but do a little at a time so the sit right or you will be replacing them again very soon!

mlog
06-12-2011, 10:33 AM
I thought I would see what you folks think. I have been getting "low trac" lights when I make sharp left turns at low speeds. Sometimes the ABS fail light illuminates. The code is C1226 (right front excessive speed variation). That's the only code.

I had the same problem about two years ago. At the time I had the right front hub assembly replaced by my local garage. I'm guessing it was an aftermarket hub, but I don't know where they got it. All was well for the last couple of years. The low trac and ABS fail indications had completely disappeared until about a month ago. Now they're back. I'm getting the same symptoms as before.

I had the same garage, which has generally been pretty reliable, look at the problem again. I think there has been an increase in road noise, but the technician didn't think it was so noisy. They told me that the bearings were solid and had no play. They said the tie rod on the left side had a little play, but it wasn't that bad yet. They did replace the brake pads on the front. What do you think?

It never acts up when driving over bumps. It never acts up when turning right or when it's wet. The low trac light is most likely to occur when taking off from a complete stop while turning sharply left. What should I do? It's getting annoying, and the problem is getting more prevalent. I'm afraid the brakes will wear out again.

Thanks for any suggestions and input. It's a 1999 GA GT with about 120k.

mlog
06-17-2011, 05:02 PM
bump

Braves299
10-05-2011, 10:29 AM
I only have a Trac Off light and ABS light on -- NOT the SVS. Same problem?

Pauljp
10-05-2011, 11:55 AM
Try checking your wiring from the hub in the wheel well.
Maybe it is being pulled when the wheel is turned sharply.
Check for wear or cracks.
Try cleaning and greasing the contacts with dielectric grease.

handymandan98
11-20-2011, 04:29 PM
Great write up! This helped me determine my front left hub needed to be replaced and check out what I found in the process. My steering knuckle is cracked.. who knows how long I've been driving like that! I guess it's a good thing that sensor went out or I wouldn't have found this until it was too late.

WidbyJ
11-21-2011, 08:38 PM
Lucky find! Of course you checked the A-arm closely too, it looks like a curbing hit to me...

handymandan98
11-22-2011, 12:19 PM
I'm pretty sure it was from an accident about a year ago. I swerved into the median on the freeway to avoid hitting a large truck tire. In some places in Hawaii the wall is only a foot from the fast lane so I slammed right into the wall at 70mph. Long story short, I see now that the repair shop screwed me over on this one. My car was $400 away from being totaled so to save the job for them, they apparently failed to mention a cracked steering knuckle to me or my insurance company :mad::mad: They did all the cosmetic repairs and I've babied the car since. I'm kinda pissed that only now I'm finding this but at the same time I'm thankful my wheel didn't fall off while driving over the last year!

thapunisha333
08-16-2012, 12:37 AM
hate to revive the thread but, the 3 lights from the sensor pop on randomly for me and is prolly the connection cuz the previous owner crashed into a snow bank. When i reverse my LOW TRAC light pops on for a few seconds. is this related to the speed sensor and assembly or something different?

aggresiveAM
11-08-2012, 12:16 PM
i have been dealing with this issue since i bought my car and if after the first time you replace each wheel bearing or rotor the lights come back on then do not replace your wheel bearing anymore until they start to make a loud groaning noise that increases with acceleration. The issue with all of these cars is the pigtail wiring harness that comes from the electronic abs module to either of the front wheel bearing plugs. Over time or just randomly the wire can become damaged from salt, hot engine oil or coolant spilling on it or hitting something. When you drive or most likely when you turn the wheel all three lights and in some cases the red brakelight will come on because the wire has formed and break in it somewhere and it disconnects. The lights will stay on until you turn the car off and turn it back on and trip the break again. To fix this issue you must purchase the abs wheel bearing pigtail wiring harness and get underneath the car and wire it up in replace of the old wire. I discovered this almost a 3 years ago with the help of a Midas. The wiring harness can be ordered at most autoparts stores for around 80 dollars.

P.S. You can two wheel bearing front or rear on ebay for 60 dollars a pair. Made hear at Detroit axle. the makers of most of the OE parts for GM cars

04GaGT1981
01-29-2013, 11:54 AM
yea wow, my 04 coupe does the same thing, i just shut it off, restart the car and it will go away for an inconsistent ammount of time, seems like i got a whacked sensor too


hey since were asking about sensors.....why would my tire pressure light never come on even with a flat tire?

PhantomLover007
08-06-2013, 04:45 AM
ABS/Trac off/SVS came on this morning.. Yay!!