aaand there goes the ABS.. [Archive] - Forum


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12-30-2004, 12:11 AM
well ive done searches and read up on the wheel speed sensor problems these cars have, i pretty much have to get a whole new wheel bearing right? the traction control comes on when driving normally and the car shudders since its messing w/ the spark, or the ABS comes on when i brake and get to 10 mph or less, it takes it a little longer to stop- then both systems completely shut down, ABS and "trac off" lights come on. i havent replaced a wheel bearing myself and dont think i have the tools, took it to Monroe and they said they dont have the equipment to run down the ABS and isolate which wheel it was, Sears Auto doesnt do electrical stuff so pretty much my option is the dealer who wants $59.95 just to do a diagnostic and find out whats wrong with it. i heard soemthing about using a multimeter to check the resistance at the WSS connector and the one thats different is the one that needs replacing, worth a shot? i know a lot of people here already had this or a similar problem

12-30-2004, 08:39 AM
You won't need a new hub assembly unless the teeth are damaged, in which case they're really easy to change anyway.

First, make sure the wire's aren't damaged or unplugged. What kinds of tools do you have access to? Do you have a multimeter? Do you have access to a lift? If you have both, just probe into the WSS with the red, and ground the black. Get each wheel spinning to make sure each if getting a voltage signal.

12-30-2004, 10:02 PM
yeah i can get a multimeter and have a jack and stands, i checked under it today but could barely get to the sensor, the front ones seemed plugged in just a lot of salt and crap on them- taking it in to the dealer :( tomorrow morning, anybody know if theres a TSB i can bring on the wheel sensor/ABS light, or just a lot of people here that have the same problem?

12-30-2004, 10:31 PM
Actually, you do need a full wheel hub/speed sensor assembly here. I do not believe they sell the speed sensors seperately. I just replaced mine.

As for tools, you do not need all that much. A socket/socket driver to undo the join boot behind the rotor and to get the caliper mount off, a huge socket for the wheel axle nut (which you can get for free to borrow from Autozone), and the new part. Just make sure you break free the wheel axle nut before raising the car and taking off the tire. You need all the friction of the vehicles weight on the ground that you can get to break that baby free :)

Fixed it myself about 2 months ago and ABS/Trac Off was fixed instantly and no issues yet. (And I ABS stop all the time on purpose) :) Part of being in the ABS field as an engineer LOL

12-31-2004, 10:11 AM
alright after paying $72.93 for the diag. they said it had thrown like 9 codes for the right front hub assembly and it was at 27,000 ohms or something that was shutting the whole ABS system off, they want $419.50 for it so im just gonna do it myself. the price for the part from the dealer is $270, advance auto has it for $115 with 1 yr replacement. yeah its probly bad to use an aftermarket one but my uncle is a parts dept. manager at allstar chevy so maybe he can get the OEM GM one for cheaper. is this a semi-easy job like it sounds or are there a bunch of hidden stuff to run into when doing a hub bearing?

12-31-2004, 01:20 PM
It's honestly not that bad. I wish I would have taken digital pictures of it when I did mine just recently. And its too bad you paid $73 dollars for them to tell you what could have been read with your own multimeter :) hehe But that's ok. No need to give them anymore money. is how I did mine...

1) Remove any caps needed to get to the Axle nut. For mine, I had to pop out the center cap on the wheel.

2) Break free the axle nut. Borrow the right size from Autozone. Offhand, I do not remember which one I ended up needing. Does anyone here know the right size?? I know it was one of the larger ones. Don't forget to break free the wheel lugs either :)

3) Lift the car

4) Remove the wheel/tire

5) Remove the two bolts holding on the caliper. Have something like a small box ready to set the caliper on, or a hanger ready to hang it from the frame somewhere. Do not let it hang from the brake line. Remove the caliper assy. Remove the rotor.

6) Remove the three bolts from the CV boot. These were pretty tight for me and a general pain in the a$$. I ended up going back to Autozone or Walmart and getting an extension with an adapter for my rachet so I could use my breaker bar and use some leverage. All elbow grease and normal tools here.

7) Unhook the wheel speed sensor from the car.

8) Slide the wheel hub off the axle. Try not to hit from behind the hub assembly, as you will pull at the various joints of the axle. You just need a lot of patience here and tapping back and forth. They make a hub puller, but Autozone here did not have one for me to borrow. Took me abou0t 10 minutes or so to get it off.

9) Reverse everything. Take your new one and slide it on. It should go on very easy, no need to force. Make sure before you put it on, that the new wheel speed sensor wire is routed how you need it. After putting the new hub on, connect the speed sensor to the car.
Put the three bolts back on into the rear of the wheel hub. Hand tighten the axle nut. Put the rotor back on. Put the caliber assy back on. If the brake pads have drifted out a bit, you may have to slowly push the caliper piston back in a little to give yourself more clearance when you try to slide the pads back over the rotor. Put the wheel back on. Lower the car. Finish tightening the axle nut and wheel lugs.

Again, this is just how I went about it and things worked out well. I used the Aftermarket one you are speaking of from Autozone. Why use an OEM again in this case. It is not like they are going to last any longer? Right? :) Good luck!!

12-31-2004, 01:52 PM
sweet, thats some good info, thanks a lot il probly get to that tomorrow (assuming autozone is open and i'm feeling ok lol )

12-31-2004, 09:18 PM
No problem, just wish I could help you and remember what size axle nut it is. It is mostly just a job of patience and elbow grease.

01-01-2005, 02:24 PM
its a 36 mm axle nut socket, i just dont have a 1/2 in driver for it just a 3/8 haha off to sears- il get this yet

01-01-2005, 02:37 PM
your life will also be alot easier with some PB Blaster to loosen those three bolts with. I have removed these before and it helped immensely. Also a three jaw gear puller will help seperate the hub from the axle. If you look at the axle there is a hole for the pointed part of the gear puller. Attach the three jaws to the hub and use the wratchet and socket to remove the hub. It is alot faster that pnding on it with a hammer and safer too.

01-02-2005, 12:00 AM
yeah, i should get some of the PB stuff, i got pretty far tonight til i got to the caliper bracket, got the caliper off but the bolts for the bracket WOULD NOT budge, i used a few diff. kinds of wrenches and even an impact gun and ended up rounding one of the bolts, i might try again but might have to bring it somewhere too- wouldnt be too hard of a job except for that, should i have a torque wrench too? i used my friends air compressor/impact wrench which made the axle nut a ton easier

01-02-2005, 09:53 AM
yeah def dont use and impact on anything besides possible the axle nut. I actually just stick a screw driver in the brake rotor vents and wedge it against the caliper bracket and use a breaker bar for the axle nut. works everytime. As far as the calpier bracket I had the same prob, but i figured out if you use a 3/8 breaker bar and a shallow 6 point socket you will get it out. you may need to use a small hammer to shock the nut when you use the breaker. just act like you are going to loosen the nut like normal with the breaker, but instead of pulling on the bar with all your might hit it with the hammer until it loosens and then you will be good. I hope this all makes sense.

01-02-2005, 06:50 PM
Oh yeah, I forgot about how big of a pain the Caliper bolts are the first time you take them out. I have had my caliper bracket off a few times and its easier since that first time I did it!!

01-02-2005, 11:15 PM
yep rounded the bolts, im gonna have midas or a garage put the bearing on for me tomorrow, shouldnt be more than an hour or two of labor which is around $130-140, which including the cost of the bearing is STILL less than what the dealer wanted ! haha wouldntve had the five hours of fun ripping half the front end apart though- at least i saw my brake pads are still pretty good lol

01-04-2005, 11:55 AM
well had it doen by sears auto, $308 including the new bearing with warranty(ABS/Trac ligths are finally off!) installation, alignment, rotate and balance all 4 wheels plus the two bolts i rounded off :doh: also found out i had a bent rim, im guessin best place to get one of those is the junkyard? just 15" steelies- glad everythings fixed now thanks for the help everybody

01-07-2005, 09:58 AM
well thought it was fixed but both ABS and Trac lights came on yesterday :doh: went to autozone to get the codes scanned to see what side it was and it came up with nothing-

they had an acton OBD 1 & @ scan tool and it said system pass-no trouble codes. on my first estimate from the dealer when i paid $70 for the diagnostic, it said exactly: "need the right front hub assembly replaced C1222, C1225, C1226, C1232, C1233, C1291, C1293" so i guess the dealer used a different tool or can you scan the BCM too?

01-07-2005, 06:46 PM
I replaced the driver's side front wheel bearing, and the ABS?Trac Off light was off for a month or so. Now it is coming back on, and staying on. Any suggestions?

01-07-2005, 08:41 PM
Hmmm, that is very odd. Almost always, it is a wheel hub/speed sensor that causes that symptom. I would look for a cheap garage that can scan ABS codes cheaper that $70. I pay $36 here at a local shop. And yes, Autozone cannot read the ABS codes.