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MegaHyp
01-15-2005, 04:30 PM
Hey guys, whenever i fully press my brake pedal they make a creaking noise. when i have my radio turned down, it is very noticable and can be heared inside and outside the car. does anyone know what it could be? something wrong with the caliper and is there an area where i can lube them up at all?? thanks.

Blackrider
01-15-2005, 04:54 PM
Hey guys, whenever i fully press my brake pedal they make a creaking noise. when i have my radio turned down, it is very noticable and can be heared inside and outside the car. does anyone know what it could be? something wrong with the caliper and is there an area where i can lube them up at all?? thanks.
This usualy has to do with the caliper piston being warped, You will need to replace the caliper. Or rebuild it. I got rebuilt ones for 69 dollars a side with a 40 dollar core charge, i have had them for 8 months no issue.

ram444
01-15-2005, 05:16 PM
thanks becouse mine are doing the same thing and i had no idea what it was im shure thats it.

brsexton
01-15-2005, 05:17 PM
NO, your calipers DON'T need replacing. This is a TSB for the noise...Its very simple

Brake Noise/Creak During Slow Speed Braking (Lubricate Brake Caliper)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu

2004 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

1999-2004 Oldsmobile Alero

1999-2004 Pontiac Grand Am

Condition
Some customers may comment on a creak type noise occurring when applying the brakes. It is usually heard only during slow speed brake maneuvers. If this condition exists, it should be able to be duplicated when the vehicle is not moving by depressing the brake and listening for the noise from the wheel-well/caliper area.

Cause
This condition may be caused by a caliper piston to seal interface issue during brake apply. If the caliper is removed and the piston is pushed back, the noise may be eliminated. This is usually only a temporary fix.

Correction
DO NOT REPLACE CALIPER.

To repair this condition, lubricate the entire circumference of the seal at the caliper piston interface using Kluber Fluid and the following procedure:

Remove the wheel and reinstall two lug nuts. This will hold the rotor to the bearing surface so debris does not fall between the surfaces and cause lateral runout (LRO).
Remove the bottom bolt from the caliper assembly without disturbing the hydraulic system.



Swing the caliper assembly up so the caliper assembly is facing upward.
Thoroughly clean the piston boot with GM approved Brake Clean. Pay particular attention to the area where the boot interfaces with the piston.
Using compressed air, dry the piston/boot area.



Remove the cap from the tip of the bottle and carefully insert the tip, P/N 89022161, between the boot and piston, inward of the piston boot groove.
From the top side of the piston (reference diagram), inject the lubricant. With the caliper in the tilted position, the lubricant will flow down and work its way around the entire circumference of the seal. Let the caliper body assembly remain in this position for a minimum of 2 minutes to allow for the fluid to completely work its way around the seal.
Push the piston into the seal to ensure the lubricant is on both the piston and seal surface.

Important
Excessive fluid could appear as a failure and lead to a comeback. To prevent unnecessary future repairs, it is important to only use one bottle per side and make sure excess fluid is wiped away.


Wipe away any excessive fluid.
Reassemble the caliper to the vehicle. Tighten
Tighten the caliper bolts to 31N·m(23 lb ft).

Repeat steps 1- 9 on the opposite side of the vehicle, if necessary.
Pump the brake pedal to push the caliper piston back into place.
Reinstall the wheel and test drive the vehicle to verify repair.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description

89022161
Service Kit -- Kluber Fluid



Important
The service kit will consist of a "one--time use only" bottle which will service one caliper.


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

H9702
Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (One Side)
0.3 hr

H9703
Brake Caliper -- Lubricate (Both Sides)
0.6 hr




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

Blackrider
01-15-2005, 05:19 PM
Go ahead lub your caliper slide pins that could be the problem to, But i'm pretty much going to garantee your going to be replacing that caliper :)

MegaHyp
01-15-2005, 06:06 PM
Thank you for the TSB!

brsexton
01-15-2005, 06:57 PM
Go ahead lub your caliper slide pins that could be the problem to, But i'm pretty much going to garantee your going to be replacing that caliper :)



Its not the slide pins that need the lube. Its the piston itself that becomes dry and rubs the rubber seal. This new lube that GM choice to use, should correct the problem. Many people have had this done now and have had no noise since. Many people have replaced their calipers only to have the same noise come back within a few months with the new ones. So before you spend any money on calipers, I would try this TSB.

Blackrider
01-15-2005, 07:13 PM
Its not the slide pins that need the lube. Its the piston itself that becomes dry and rubs the rubber seal. This new lube that GM choice to use, should correct the problem. Many people have had this done now and have had no noise since. Many people have replaced their calipers only to have the same noise come back within a few months with the new ones. So before you spend any money on calipers, I would try this TSB.
I replaced my Calipers with aftermarket rebuilt ones witch correct this problem. I dont know about anyone elce but i dont like ripping my caliper apart. in the end its going to be about the same price for a rebuilt kit and less hassle to replace the caliper.

eaglesrealm
01-15-2005, 07:32 PM
I am glad brsexton brought reason to this discussion. You should NOT have to replace your caliper for this issue.

Blackrider
01-15-2005, 07:35 PM
What ever, I did it cost me very little i'm confident in my repair, and i didnt have to rip apart your caliper do what you want :rolleyes:

rizer
01-16-2005, 01:54 AM
Mine started doing the same thing right after i got new rotors. From any slow speed, pumping the brake sounds like a couple going at it on a sqeaky bed

brsexton
01-16-2005, 05:50 AM
You don't have to rip apart the caliper. You just swing the caliper up and inject the lub around the pistion seal. You don't have to take the caliper apart. Infact, you don't even have to take the caliper off the car. This repair takes like 5mins. It takes longer to jack the car up and remove the wheel longer then it takes to put the lub in.

AznGA
01-16-2005, 12:08 PM
When I used to have this problem, I had my dealer lube the piston under warranty and the noise came back. For some reason, I don't hear anything now.

AaronGAGT
01-16-2005, 12:41 PM
I did it the TSB way and it fixed the problem... its really easy.

videoman
01-16-2005, 03:38 PM
I had a very similar issue, and told the dealer about the TSB I read about. They said there are two issues both that have the same circumstances. In my case I had to have the whole caliper replaced. The other has to do with the TSB posted.

They said the other issue is the boot surounding the piston needs lubrication and makes a somewhat similar creeking noise and my issue has to do with the piston itself.

action
01-17-2005, 11:53 AM
I followed that TSB as well when I had that same noise. That was almost a year ago and the sound hasnt come back. Like already stated, its a very easy repair and very cheap. Replacing the calipers for this repair would really be overkill. Kinda like painting the whole car for a door ding!!!

ImpetuousRacer
01-22-2005, 02:26 AM
Well I tried to lube it with can of silicone spray lubricant. Didn't work worth a damn. It was "Pyroil" brand from Checkers/Schrucks/Kragen. Then I tested the stuff on my finger. Was like water.

So I ordered the actual "Kluber Fluid" from GM. And what do you know, stuff worked like magic. The creaking was loud an obnoxious, I didnt think it would work, but it did. The Kluber Fluid was very slippery, yet viscous. I believe it's a synthetic Gear Oil that can withstand high temps.

"With their excellent spreading capacity, lubricity and heat dissipation properties, lubricating oils are as valuable as gold when it comes to protecting friction points. Lubricating oil is made up of base oil and additives. The success of Klüber's lubricating oil is based on just the right combination of ingredients. Depending on the application, our products protect against friction, wear and corrosion, are neutral towards the materials involved, approved for applications in the food industry, resistant to high temperatures and rapidly biodegradable"

Some real Silicone Lube might work, just dont buy the cheap crap like I did.

Thanks for the help Eren00GT!

eren00gt
01-22-2005, 08:55 AM
Well I tried to lube it with can of silicone spray lubricant. Didn't work worth a damn. It was "Pyroil" brand from Checkers/Schrucks/Kragen. Then I tested the stuff on my finger. Was like water.

So I ordered the actual "Kluber Fluid" from GM. And what do you know, stuff worked like magic. The creaking was loud an obnoxious, I didnt think it would work, but it did. The Kluber Fluid was very slippery, yet viscous. I believe it's a synthetic Gear Oil that can withstand high temps.

"With their excellent spreading capacity, lubricity and heat dissipation properties, lubricating oils are as valuable as gold when it comes to protecting friction points. Lubricating oil is made up of base oil and additives. The success of Klüber's lubricating oil is based on just the right combination of ingredients. Depending on the application, our products protect against friction, wear and corrosion, are neutral towards the materials involved, approved for applications in the food industry, resistant to high temperatures and rapidly biodegradable"

Some real Silicone Lube might work, just dont buy the cheap crap like I did.

Thanks for the help Eren00GT!

No problem. I think I bought a name brand silicone spray from walmart but I can't remember what it is. As long as you found something to use that solves the problem. I think that creaking was going to drive me to complete insanity, so I had to try the silicone spray cause someone else on here had done it and it worked for them.

tranceokido
01-22-2005, 10:42 AM
didn't read what most had to say but i read some. I noticed someone said just pushing the piston back in works and I can certainly vouch for that. When I replaced my front brakes...that is when I noticed it stopped...mostly likely due to the fact you have to push the piston back in. I did however forget to lube it up so this will probably come back again..but no big deal

ImpetuousRacer
01-22-2005, 12:25 PM
Yeah, it sucks when you got your nice clean car sittin on wheels rollin up to a light, and then it makes loud creaking noise, just makes your car look twice as ghetto. The thing is that the brakes are still fully functional, so its not a "necessaity" to fix.

It's a shame that I saw another forum where everyone replaced calipers because noone knew about the TSB. No dealers on my side of town stocked it, and im in Phoenix, AZ huge city. So I know that these guys prob have no idea about the TSB, and the dealerships are just charging people for new calipers.

I've had this problem for about 50k miles. I'm glad I finally found the cure!

NorKoastal
01-22-2005, 02:41 PM
I got this problem... LoL nobody around here knows what "Kluber Fluid is"

brsexton
01-22-2005, 04:05 PM
I tried WD-40, it only worked for a thousand miles and it was back.. So the stuff from GM should last.

Mike_99GAGT
01-22-2005, 08:02 PM
this may also me a cause......pull the break pad out.....look around the edges of the steel part of the pad for a shiney part (evidence of rubbing) where the pad seats itself in the caliper....lube that up put her all back together.....i found when the rotors get a slight warp, the pad will 'wiggle' in the caliper, hence rubbing slighty on the caliper...kind of like a turky call would work....and goes "reee reeeee reeeee reeeee".....i used bearing grease on this, but that only lastest about 2 months......then i stuck little rubber pads in that area....that worked great, untill eventually the break pad pinched through the rubber......but at least i know the exact location of the noise.....hope this helps someone....just my experience....

thanks
out

NorKoastal
01-22-2005, 08:18 PM
I found a dealer that has the Kluber fluid (40 miles away) Now I want to make sure I put it in the right place... Do I spray into the piston opening between the piston ring and the body of the piston housing????

LaFFi
03-30-2005, 10:37 AM
The dealer I normally go to because they seem like fair people said they never heard of the TSB, but they read over my print out. They said it sounds like it would work and that they'd look at my car. But they didn't want the TSB from me, and they said they had special lubricants to use. It makes me wonder what they'll actually do. They told me at most $60 if it takes them an hour.

I think I'll give it a shot.

grandam-wpg
03-30-2005, 02:25 PM
I am on my third new right front caliper and 2nd new left front caliper due to the creeking noise. Hell its under warrently so I dont mind. They tried lubing the pistons and it did jack, so every time they have replaced them. This is in a period of 2 years. I guess its the way I use my brakes.

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
07-16-2005, 10:36 PM
grandam-wpg.. how are you able to get caliper after caliper replacements etc under warranty when you car is a 2001 and it's now 2005. my car is a 2000 gagt and 69,000 klms and still underwarranty til june 2006. extended gmp warranty . i had under the 60,000 klms some where under 60 k, the frt drivers side caliper replaced . can not remember if they charged me or not. noise just came back today. nova-scotia cdn

Ridenour
07-16-2005, 10:40 PM
ur like 4 months too late

Quaf069
09-08-2005, 01:39 PM
I think I have the same problem. Seems like its on one side though. Also I notice If I press down on the break while the car is parked or in reverse, there is no noise. Is this happening with anyone else (the park and reverse no noise) ?


Thanks

coupe
09-08-2005, 02:00 PM
Ive had this problem since day one. Im just lazy.
All of you are right actually. Some calipers need to be replaced (dont have to) or just lube like the TSB says (also dont have to). Try lube first, replace if ya want after that. Dont have to do either if your just lazy or broke as a joke. Its not a MUST fix.

turbotoad
01-04-2006, 08:35 PM
My 03' GT just started doing this yesterday with 45,000 miles on it (replaced warped front rotors and pads at 30,000). The left front creaks really bad when pushing the brake pedal while the vehicle is stopped or barely moving. It sounds like a horror movie door opening......ccrrreeeeeeeakkkkkkk!!!

Anyway, I just got done tearing apart the left front where I cleaned then greased the slide pins, and also greased a few metal-to-metal contact points on the pad retainer clips & pads, plus where the piston touches the inboard pad's metal backing plate. Well, after a quick test ride the creak is STILL THERE!

Of course I did all that work before doing a search and reading this thread! Oh, well, looks like I'll have to try the Kluber fluid method.

ImpetuousRacer
01-04-2006, 08:54 PM
haha, yup. I did the same thing. Drove me nuts, and as u can see by some of the reading, most of the dealerships/mechanics didnt know about the TSB. I tried some other lubricants in there without success, and the Kluber Fluid worked perfectly, and lasts!

Malibu66
01-06-2006, 01:03 PM
Good Post. I have been battling this for a few months now. I just replaced the rotors and pads (they needed them anyway) and so far the noise has gone away. I guess I see if it comes back.

Exodus
01-06-2006, 01:43 PM
My car started doing the same thing. But it sounds like its coming from the brake pedal itself. The brake pedal sqeaks annoying as hell

Exodus
01-06-2006, 01:47 PM
Oh yeah this happens when cars not even moving. Car will be in park and I apply pressure to the brake to change gears and it friggen sqeaks

NorKoastal
01-06-2006, 01:52 PM
If you swing open the caliper you will se the actual piston that moves toward the outside of the car.. Surrounding that is a rubber gasket.. Flip that puppy up a bit and surround the whole circle (outside that meets the rubber) with kluber fluid.. You may want to unbolt the caliper so you can tilt it up to ensure coating the whole area.. If that doesnt work get some silicone spray and shove the straw in there and go at it.. This combo worked for me..

Exodus
01-06-2006, 02:00 PM
So its not only my car, its one of those stutttttttering turn signal sounds. Add a new annoying defect to the list.

turbotoad
01-06-2006, 09:39 PM
The Kluber lubricant kit is availible online at:

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

Just put the part # 89022161 in the part number search field. The kit costs just $3.12 each (one caliper) but they really it you hard for shipping and handling ($9.95 !!!) :wow:

The kit is $5.49 (List) at the dealer, so you can save $7.58 by making the trip to you local dealership. But for those who either can't stand the dealership experience or don't have the time to go there, you can order it online.

jhmace
01-07-2006, 09:21 AM
If you swing open the caliper you will se the actual piston that moves toward the outside of the car.. Surrounding that is a rubber gasket.. Flip that puppy up a bit and surround the whole circle (outside that meets the rubber) with kluber fluid.. You may want to unbolt the caliper so you can tilt it up to ensure coating the whole area.. If that doesnt work get some silicone spray and shove the straw in there and go at it.. This combo worked for me..


So, does this stuff actually go into the brake system mixing with the brake fluid or does it not go that far?? It sounds like(according to the instructions) that you are injecting this oil into the brake system. Kind of worries me to do that, but I guess I'll see better when I get the caliper off.

turbotoad
01-09-2006, 07:29 PM
Just picked up a kit from a GM dealer tonight. The bottle only contains about a 3/4 teaspoon worth of lubricant.

---------------------------

jhmace:

"So, does this stuff actually go into the brake system mixing with the brake fluid or does it not go that far?? It sounds like(according to the instructions) that you are injecting this oil into the brake system. Kind of worries me to do that, but I guess I'll see better when I get the caliper off."

The Kluber fluid is injected between the piston boot-seal and the piston itself. There should be an o-ring or some type of bushing that seals the piston to caliper interface. Unless this o-ring/bushing is torn or damaged I don't think much, if any of the Kluber fluid can get into the caliper and mix with the brake fluid. And even if a trace amount did get mixed into the brake fluid, the brake fluid does not flow back into the rest of the brake system. It would stay confined within that caliper.

NorKoastal
01-12-2006, 01:26 PM
So, does this stuff actually go into the brake system mixing with the brake fluid or does it not go that far?? It sounds like(according to the instructions) that you are injecting this oil into the brake system. Kind of worries me to do that, but I guess I'll see better when I get the caliper off.


NOOO!!! It doesnt come close..... You are injecting the fluid into the area inbetween the side of the caliper and its housing... No fluid makes it back into the brake fluid system.

nascarnate326
01-12-2006, 01:37 PM
Wow, mine does this too. I hate going through drive-thu's with brand new rotars and brakes, but a noise that sounds like i will be crashing through. Thats for the info everyone.

AznGA
01-12-2006, 09:35 PM
I have this problem too. I can't afford to get new calipers, so lubing would be the only option for me. But doesn't water get into the calipers? So lubing is only a temp. solution? I don't think this is a big deal. The brake should still work fine. I don't expect my car with 87k miles to be noise-free.

Black01gt1
01-13-2006, 09:58 AM
I'm assuming that I am expiriencing the same problem. I can feel it in my brake pedal, its almost like the spring is getting caught on something, but I checked everything and it is not, and I hear the creeking rather loudly. I had a friend pump the brake pedal while I sat next to the drivers side front tire and definately heard it.

brsexton
01-25-2006, 08:12 AM
Well its been over a year since I put the lube in my calipers and I still have NO creaking. So the lube really works. I assume I will re-lube them during me next brake job just to be on the safe side.

Y2KGA
01-25-2006, 06:28 PM
I just had my pads replaced a few weeks ago and now I have that creaking noise in my left caliper. I just brought it back to my mechanic and he said it was the caliper but its not worth changing. I am thinking of buying the kluber fluid and asking him to put it in for me. The TSB estimates about about 15 minutes per caliper. Is it really that quick?

Has anyone taken any pictures for a how-to yet?

NorKoastal
01-26-2006, 12:03 AM
It IS that quick... You can really do this yourself... Make sure you get the tip of the kluber fluid inbetween the rubber grommet and the circle piston.

dcb2001gt
01-29-2006, 11:44 AM
It is the Caliper slide pins. I just had the same problem. the rubber boot on the pins gets a hole in it and then the pins corode. Do not listen to all the people saying it is the piston. They are wrong!!! Pull the wheel and take a look at the caliper slide pins, I will bet any amount of money that one of them is corroded. Come boys who wants to bet???? Half the people on this site have no idea what they are talking about, check the easy stuff first before moving on to the bigger stuff.

eaglesrealm
01-29-2006, 06:59 PM
It is the Caliper slide pins. I just had the same problem. the rubber boot on the pins gets a hole in it and then the pins corode. Do not listen to all the people saying it is the piston. They are wrong!!! Pull the wheel and take a look at the caliper slide pins, I will bet any amount of money that one of them is corroded. Come boys who wants to bet???? Half the people on this site have no idea what they are talking about, check the easy stuff first before moving on to the bigger stuff.


Dcb2001gt, you may very well be correct. However, there is also a chance the others are right. The procedure they have discussed is part of a known problem with this system. Regardless, why don't you try treating people with respect?!?

Ajaxus
01-29-2006, 07:06 PM
couldnt have put it better myself. there are usually many things that could cause problems on here dcb, not one. you could have constructively offered an alternative that could be the problem. there are members on here that are mechanics by trade, gm employees, and avid modders that do their own work. their knowledge is very good, do not assume because you have found alternatives for problems that you know all and that everyone else is wrong.

being constructive and helpful is good, but the attitude expressed in your post isnt exactly one trying to be helpful. you might find that being positive when offering help will get you alot further.

edit: altho the specific alternative you mentioned wasnt mentioned yet, if you kept reading you would have seen the slide pins mentioned a few times as a possibility. along with a tsb, issued by GM, on such an issue.

chevy355blazer
01-29-2006, 07:37 PM
Just lube everything, caliper slide pins, and the boot. Mine is only coming from the rear it seems like. I got an 04 with 30,000 on it. Or just turn ur radio up. If ur pins are corrdied pull em out and use a bench grinder with one of those stripping wheels on it not a normal stone grinder. The kind with a whole bunch of metal little hairs on it. sorry brain fart cant remember what they are. that will clean all the corrosion off and then lube it up. Put it back on and go.

charbygt
03-11-2006, 04:16 PM
I had the creak almost a year ago, and had the lube trick done while showing the TSB to the dealer. The mechanic also showed me the seal on the piston had rolled inside out allowing dirt to get inside. I had a new "seal kit" installed at the same time. The last 2 months I have been getting the creak again on the drivers side. Funny, it went away for a few days as I was thinking of taking it in. Do I spend more to remove the creak temporary or have the caliper replaced with a jobber?

Dirtball
04-10-2007, 08:51 AM
Man it was nice finding this thread (sorry for starting a new one). My creak is driving me APE!!! Drive through windows are the absolute worst. As someone else said, you have a great looking car and it makes this horrible, "I don't take care of my vehicle" sound. I hope the Kluber Lube is still readily available.

FuriousG
04-10-2007, 10:51 AM
I've had this sound for about a month or two now and I'm sitting at around 52K miles. Thanks for digging this one back up because with summer coming on, I plan to drive with my windows down more often and that noise would have driven me crazy.

Now, since I'm over in Germany and getting things through GMpartsdirect is a serious pain in the butt, can anyone help me out with the purchase of this stuff? I'll send you the money through Paypal and give you the address to ship to. GMPartsDirect won't accept my credit card since the billing address on it is an APO address and they don't have an option for APO shipping. I've ordered once from them before but I had to ship through my BIL and that took alot of extra time. If anyone can pick up the lube from a dealer or even order it online and let me know how much I owe them then I'll be happy to pay them back and throw a little extra cash in for the help.

Dirtball
04-10-2007, 12:20 PM
Mine started right at 50,000 miles. I don't have a free weekend for about a month, but I'm going to jump right on it at that time.

stillriza
04-10-2007, 01:12 PM
:worthless

anyone??

coupe
04-10-2007, 01:15 PM
pics of what?

skwim
05-12-2007, 03:21 PM
Hey guys, I have a 1999 Chevy Malibu with this same problem. I found your thread, and did the silicone lube trick with success. I took pictures for those of you who wanted them. It was really easy. I have ordered some Kluber Lube from my local GM Dealer, but my wife is taking the car on a 550 mile trip tomorrow, and I wanted it good for that.