Brakes gone clean after pad swap HELP! [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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resevil83
03-15-2005, 03:00 PM
I installed new rotors and pads on my ga and this was about a month ago. The pad on the left side was smoking after I installed them. It was really cold outside. It did this for like 4 or 5 days and then stopped. I had everything done right, I thought. I have done this before and had no problems. I completely compressed the caliper and I also lifted that rubber boot that is around the piston and shot some white lithium grease in there. It made my clicking noise go away so I was happy. Now my question is, could my caliper on my drivers side have gone bad? The left side did not do this. What's the deal?

wilridher
03-16-2005, 08:43 PM
does the car pull to the left when stopping?

Rogue9
03-17-2005, 02:45 AM
did u put grease under the PISTON or on the sliding caliper bolts..?

are u supposed to lube the piston?

Malaclypse
03-17-2005, 04:39 AM
You aren't supposed to lube the piston... but you're supposed to lube the caliper slide bolts every time you remove them.

Did you install ceramic pads? Those are known to create extra heat while they're breaking in. This would explain the smoke. It would also explain a squeal (when braking) a few thousand miles down the road.

action
03-17-2005, 01:53 PM
Lubing the piston is actually part of a TSB in the warranty section of this site to correct the creaking calipers complaint.

You are supposed to also clean and lube the caliper slides with high temperature grease at least every 20-30k kms, I usually do mine twice a year.

resevil83
03-20-2005, 03:08 AM
well i lubed both the slides and the under the piston. Anyways... I definately hear the wear indicator on my left side goin crazy. So I'm wondering... Is my caliper broken? Easy to replace? I'm kind of ticked because now I need to re-buy the pads. I think I might just take it in. Are there any aftermarket brakes I should get? I dont have 17 inch wheels though.

action
03-21-2005, 12:32 PM
Are you sure its the wear indicator??? Sometimes new pads squeel during break in, depends if they're organic, metalic or ceramic.

Could be a sticky caliper, I had one stick the summer and smoke a set of pads, I cycled it with a c-clamp flushing some new fluid through it and its been fine ever since.

Rogue9
03-21-2005, 01:14 PM
Are you sure its the wear indicator??? Sometimes new pads squeel during break in, depends if they're organic, metalic or ceramic.

Could be a sticky caliper, I had one stick the summer and smoke a set of pads, I cycled it with a c-clamp flushing some new fluid through it and its been fine ever since.


Same... except I bought a reconditioned unit. =)

Oh NEVER follow the torque specs in the GM manual for 2001 GA/Alero's.

I had to return 3 calipers cause I tried to torque the brake line into the caliper to the specs and I stripped them.
1st time thought it was just the caliper.
2nd got me thinking..
3rd... well yea... u get the idea.

It lists something like 43 ft pounds...
eh I forget.

Molson
03-21-2005, 01:38 PM
did you clean off the anti-rust oils on the rotors with brake cleaner before you installed them?

resevil83
03-21-2005, 03:05 PM
didn't really clean the rotors... What do you mean cycling? I don't know what you mean... Should I just have them flush my break fluid and re-do the pads or whatever? I don't have much money... I'm pretty sure its not just the pads, I got them from pfyc, the passenger side was smoking for like 3 days and what not... I'll check the pads today... But I honestly think its the wear indicator.

action
03-22-2005, 08:14 AM
When you install new rotors, you have to use brake clean (its an aerosol cleaner that eveaporates quickly and leaves no residue) to clean off the packaging oil. New rotors are coated in oil to prevent rust while they're sitting on the shelf.

For cycling the piston, what i did was when I pushed back the piston, I'd crack the bleeder to get some of the old fluid out, closing it before I stopped operating the clamp. then you slowly apply the brakes to push the piston back out. Make sure you check the fluid level in the resevoir.

If you have a buddy, you can bleed them the old fashioned way with a buddy pumping the pedle while you operate the bleeder, or you can have a shop do it for you. It really doenst hurt to flush your brake fluid every couple years, heating/cooling and the fact that brake fluid can easilly become contaminated from moisture warrants fluid change.

resevil83
03-29-2005, 09:39 PM
at what mileage should I have my break fluid flushed? Ohh adn the problem was... I didn't clean the left rotor off with the break part cleaner... so that smoke was the packaging oil and my pad going nuts.... It caused that side to overheat... the mechanic told me that my break pad is now permanently ruined and I need to buy new ones... He said that my pad has soaked up the oil and will eventually crack... does this sound correct? It only makes sense... The squeaking, I thought was the break pad wear indicator but it happened to be rust on the rotor.. I guess if you dont clean off new rotors you can do some major damage... especially when they heat up and cool down fast (winter time) so what pads should I buy now? same ones from pfyc the ceramic ones?