what additive should i use to keep car cooler? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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w82drv
05-11-2005, 04:57 PM
my 99 GT has been runnin almost 230(when moving) and rises even more when im still, and i know the normal temp is around 212 or so........ i was wondering is there anything i could or should add to my radiator to keep it cooler than just using regular dex cool 50 50 ????/



thanks...........

jscarano13
05-11-2005, 05:05 PM
Ice.

Mike Jung
05-11-2005, 05:50 PM
Maybe:

Flush & re-fill with new engine coolant (while your at it, maybe change the thermostat - maybe it is partly sticking close).
Which you should have done (changing the Dexcool & re-filling it) already by now.

Use a real 'synthetic' motor oil.


I know after I had my Dexcool flushed & re-filled, & with a thermostat changed...my GA ran cooler.

But why is your GA running at 230F/110C ( & higher when not moving) ?
Are your cooling fans not working ?

What Temperature Engine Cooling Fans Come ON At (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21601)

The PCM commands Low Speed Fans ON under the following conditions:

The engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106C (223F).
The A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1310 kPa (190 psi).
The vehicle is shut off when the engine coolant temperature is greater than 140C (284F) and system voltage is more than 12 volts. The fans will stay ON for approximately 3 minutes.



The PCM commands High Speed Fans on under the following conditions:

The engine coolant temperature reaches 110C (230F).
The A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1655 kPa (240 psi).
When certain DTCs set.

Based on what your saying:
THERE IS SOMETHING NOT RIGHT WITH YOUR GA !
Please get it checked out SOON !


I currently am running 1-notch below (= about 86C/ 187F) to about the middle mark 90C/194F, when moving.
But will climb up to about 2.5 to 3-notches past middle position 90C = about 98C/209F to 100C/212F, when stuck in traffic... & then the engine cooling fans come on & bring it back down to middle 90C/194F position (if not just a little below).

I noticed when using Made in Germany - Castrol Syntec 0W30 (PAO/Ester based) Synthetic motor oil; that my engine coolant temps are a little lower than with Mobil 1 5W30 & 10W30.
This also has been confirmed with someone else with a 98 C5 Corvette (that has digital engine coolant & oil temp gauges) that was one of the original first users of this oil when it came across the ocean to US/Canada.


PS: I am serious thinking the next engine coolant flush & re-fill, to using: Zerex G-05 (http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=10) instead of Texaco/Havoline 'Dexcool' that came in our cars.

BiHStL
05-11-2005, 06:42 PM
there is this stuff called water wetter that i have heard about, but i have no experience with it. You can find it at auto parts stores. Search for it on this site and online, you should be able to find more info

w82drv
05-11-2005, 07:08 PM
hey guys thanks for your posts, any more info could be of value but i thank you for your comments

Mike Jung
05-11-2005, 07:18 PM
there is this stuff called water wetter that i have heard about, but i have no experience with it. You can find it at auto parts stores. Search for it on this site and online, you should be able to find more info

Red Line WaterWetter (http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp)

http://www.redlineoil.com/prdImg/53.jpg


Offtopic:
Red Line also makes expensive $$$ Polyol Ester based synthetic motor oil.

w82drv
05-11-2005, 08:47 PM
ok here i might need yalls help? what kind of motor oil shoud i get made by redline and what weight...?

CruzinGT33
05-11-2005, 09:19 PM
BiHsTL - Have u used this Waterwetter stuff? How much did it cost and about how many degrees did it drop?

jdub
05-11-2005, 09:45 PM
there is this stuff called water wetter that i have heard about, but i have no experience with it. ...i dont think he knows...:)

CruzinGT33
05-11-2005, 09:50 PM
oops, didn't catch that one... what about you Mike?

Mike Jung
05-12-2005, 05:46 PM
...what kind of motor oil shoud i get made by redline and what weight...?

:wow: you got some money to spend on motor oil!
It sells for here locally for $12.99Cdn per US Quart.
[Compared to German Castrol Syntec 0W30 at $7.12Cdn/L @ Walmart & Mobil 1 0W40 at $6.99Cdn/L @ Part Source.]
I have seen it online for about $7.xxUS per US Quart.

Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil (for street use) (http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp).

Based on what I see at: Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil Product Data (http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/4.pdf)

I would recommend 5W30 (winter/or all year long) & 10/30 (summer).
But with me lately thinking of German Castrol Syntec 0W30 (a THICK 30-weight that is almost a 40-weight) & Mobil 1 0W40; I might be inclined to try the 5W40 in the summer/all-year long.



...Have u used this Waterwetter stuff? How much did it cost and about how many degrees did it drop?
About $7US a bottle, I see on online stores.
[IIRC about $12.99Cdn I have seen here locally.]



...what about you Mike?
I never have used the stuff.

You can watch the Demo (http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?productID=53&coolantFlash=1)

Mike Jung
05-12-2005, 05:55 PM
You know this morning (at about 2-5C/36-41F outside) cruising into work on the highway (with a little stop & go traffic).
My Engine Coolant Temp Gauge never went over 90C/194F.
It was mostly 1-notch below the 90C mark.

& coming home this evening (at about 8C/46F outside) on the highway (with stop & go traffic to get out of the downtown core):
My Engine Coolant Temp Gauge only went to 90C, but cooled off to 1-notch below it when the trafffic started cruising.


Note:
In the winter time my Engine Coolant Gauge usually runs 2-notches below 90C.
& in the -25C/-13F outdoor temps, the Engine Coolant Gauge actually goes alittle below 2-notches before the 90C (after the Engine Coolant Thermostat opens around the 90C mark).

BiHStL
05-12-2005, 07:47 PM
yeah i havent used it, but im probably doing a radiator flush next weekend and i might as well try this stuff out!

tonystewart
05-12-2005, 08:43 PM
I'm not too keen on engines, but doesn't it make sense that the engine would be hotter in traffic? When you aren't moving there is little or no airflow through the engine. The downfall of ram air is that when you aren't moving it is a very restrictive set up. Let me know what you think. Also, it has probably been a topic before but I feel lazy right now; does engine oil make that much of a difference? Say a regular 5 w 30 versus that Synthetic junk.

amd_hcds
05-12-2005, 11:48 PM
Ummm....WIth my car I got some problems in summer cause summer kills in here , It's about 55C in the afternoon , I flushed my Radiator last week and added new coolant mix and my mechanic recommended that I remove the Thermostat so the water flow won't be stopped at all. When I turn on the A\C the temp. is 105C or a little less , Is that normal? But when I turn the A\C off it's around 90C or a bit less.

Mike Jung
05-15-2005, 10:06 PM
...does engine oil make that much of a difference? Say a regular 5 w 30 versus that Synthetic junk.

The engine coolant cools the top of the engine area.
The engine oil does cool the lower half of the engine, by removing heat from it.

Heat Removal

While most of the engine's heat is absorbed by the cooling system, about 10 to 20 percent of engine heat is absorbed by the oil. Furthermore, engine oil is the principal coolant for the pistons, main bearings, rod bearings and camshaft. The oil must be able to absorb the heat, store it, and release it without ever compromising its own stability. The rate at which this absorption, storage and release occur is known as the heat transfer coefficient. The faster the rate, the better the oil.

Oils also have a heat capacity, which is the amount of heat the oil can absorb before a change in overall oil temperature occurs. Much of this has to do with the polarity of the oil. Polarity is a characteristic of the individual molecules that make up an element; it helps determine the stability of those molecules, and therefore that element. Synthetic oils are more stable than conventional petroleum oils under high temperatures; this enables synthetics to outperform their petroleum counterparts by approximately 10 percent in the area of heat transfer. Furthermore, it means synthetics will absorb 5 to 10 percent more heat before a change in oil temperature occurs.

Petroleum oils are not only less efficient at removing heat, they also begin to break down significantly above 275 degrees F. Unfortunately, temperatures at high stress areas within the engine-like cam and follower contact areas, pistons, etc. can routinely exceed 400 degrees F. Petroleum oils may boil away or vaporize, at these temperatures, leaving high stress areas without adequate protection.

In addition, conventional petroleum oils react with oxygen at high temperatures to form acids, which then combine to form varnish deposits that coat the metal. The varnish deposits formed by this process, which is called oxidation, will reduce the ability to transfer heat, and will build up to cause sludge and ring sticking.

Remember, synthetic bases are more stable partly because they are formulated without reactive carbons, which have a tendency to react with oxygen. The more stable molecular structure of modern synthetic oils enables these products to resist this harmful oxidation, as well as vaporization. Red Line's synthetic motor oil, for example, will still lubricate at temperatures in excess of 700 degrees F. This resistance to breakdown means a cleaner oil, and a more durable one.


...that Synthetic junk.
You got to be kidding :rolleyes: :nono:

How is synthetic junk ?

tonystewart
05-16-2005, 06:01 AM
Like I said, not too keen on engines. Thank you for answering my question though. I just never thought it would be worth paying that much more for oil. Next change I'll definitely get it. Also my friend's rx8 actually seized because of synthetic oil. A couple months later they said not to put it into rotary engine vehicles. This makes me a little nervous.

Mike Jung
05-16-2005, 06:19 AM
Like I said, not too keen on engines. Thank you for answering my question though. I just never thought it would be worth paying that much more for oil. Next change I'll definitely get it. Also my friend's rx8 actually seized because of synthetic oil. A couple months later they said not to put it into rotary engine vehicles. This makes me a little nervous.
Synthetic motor oil is definately better.

But is it worth the extra $$$ ?
To me it is.
Cleaner running engine, a little lower operating temps, better cold start ablities in the winter, longer oil life oil changes (without the worry of the oil being shot), & some say better gas mileage because there is less fiction in the engine.

When buying 'synthetic' motor oil in North America:
You have to be a educated shopper; as in '98 Castrol won a court ruling to 'label' their Made in US - Castrol Syntec line synthetic, when it is made with hydro-cracked 'dino' oil.
So most 'synthetic' motor oil now is made with hydro-cracked dino oil as their base oil.
So I would say pick a synthetic motor oil like Mobil 1, that is easily found over-the-counter; as it is still uses PAO's as it's base oil, which is real synthetic.
The Made in Germany- Castrol Syntec 0W30 oil that I use is PAO's with some blending of Esters in it as it's base oil.
There are other synthetic motor oils that use PAO's (& Red Line uses Esters) as their base oil, but you have to research it before buying.

Yeah, the Mazda rotary engine is a questionable application; so I heard.
In the RX-7: it was a :nono: , unless you buy the specially made synthetic oil that was made for it in racing . The engine would burn the oil by design.
But I heard the RX-8 it was suppose to be ok though :confused:

intrikitemo
05-16-2005, 08:25 AM
Maybe:

Flush & re-fill with new engine coolant (while your at it, maybe change the thermostat - maybe it is partly sticking close).
Which you should have done (changing the Dexcool & re-filling it) already by now.



you should be changing ur rad fluid every 2yrs if its the regular green ****..

but since i believe they all come with the 5 yr coolant...u should have changed that LAST year.. check if its "acidic" if so.. u better have that changed..

when it becomes acidic it corodes ur rubber hoses not only that internal engine parts :D :D