Kind Of A Tough Question About Heads...

[Sorry_Officer]

I have a set of used heads in the shop getting worked on and I would like to know what I should do for the valves and the valve springs. Are there special ones I can get?? Where can I get them?? Which ones do I need??

Basically right now all the shop is doing is smoothing the bowl out and P&P as much as they can. Is there anything else I should have them do?? I would like to order the valves and valve springs if I need them and have them install them.

Also where can I get a high quality head gasket for thi when I actually switch out the heads..........

Sorry for all the questions, but I do not know much about the heads and just want to make sure everything is top notch and done right..........

[Hurricane]

You shouldn't have to replace the springs as the weight of the springs should be matched to the cam to prevent floating valves by running to light of a spring and running a heavier spring than necessary really doesn't add anything as far as I know.

As for the valves, it depends on whether or not the shop is enlarging the area that the valve sits on (Ithink it's called the the valve seat but I'm not sure). In other words, as long as the valve is the right shape to seal the port properly it's not necessary.

I don't think there are any other head gaskets out there other than the OEM ones. Not sure though.

[mfuller]

Hurricane brought up some very good points. Generally valve springs are matched to cam profile, although I have found that the LA1 experiences a bit of valve float around 5900-6000rpm. When I am at the track, I tend to keep the revs high (that's where my powerband is), so I'd like to find something slightly stiffer. Another option is to shim the stock valve springs, although there exists a higher possibility that something will fail. Stiffer valve springs also will increase valvetrain noise and may decrease mileage.
Larger valves would be nice since a cam is not possible on the LA1 (unless you get a re-grind), but again, you want a good seal at the valve seat. You may want to call SI Valves to find out if they offer anything compatible with our heads. If they don't, just work with stock valves - swirl-polish the stems, be sure the valve guides are smooth, and pay special attention to where the port floor curves down to meet the valve seat (this is called a "short side radius", and can be a place of major flow restiction).
They should be gasket matching the ports for you. You want the intake ports slightly rough for proper air/fuel mixture, but there should not be any waves, gouges, or low spots. The exhaust ports should be polished mirror-smooth.
Bowl work is where most gains are usually found. This consists of the roof of the valve pockets and the valve guide boss. Just smooth it out as best you can. The valve throat is the smallest diameter in the valve pocket just above the valve seat. A general rule is that the valve throat should be about 85% of the valve diameter.
Have them polish and match the combustion chambers, and finally gasket match the lower intake manifold - the port exits for the intake manifold should be just like the intake port for the cylinder head. If you're really going gonzo, have someone do a multi-angle valve job for you - it will help flow at low valve lift.
Note: depending on the condition of the heads, you may need to have them surfaced for a good seal with the head gasket. Only remove as much as is absolutely necessary.

[Sorry_Officer]

Hey Matt, I think I am just going to print out your email and hand it to them........:D

[Daysan]

I had my heads done a month ago, but I'm in Ireland for 10 months, so I can't install them. Since there isn't any after market springs, they compressed them according to the cam measurements. Also, there isn't any room to increase the valve size. I'll call them in a few hours and get the exact measurements and what they did.

[Sorry_Officer]

How did they get measurements?? I picked up a spare set of heads from a bone yard and that is what they are working on.....so they really have nothing to go by. I trust them to all hell, their rep is unmatched up here with the f-body guys. Do they need anything besides the heads??

As far as the gasket, no one makes a aftermarket gasket?? I should probably give them a gasket set to go by, ya think??

I hate not knowing anything about this stuff............

[mfuller]

Originally posted by Sorry_Officer
As far as the gasket, no one makes a aftermarket gasket?? I should probably give them a gasket set to go by, ya think??

I hate not knowing anything about this stuff............
Fel-Pro makes valve stem seals and head gaskets -
Fel-Pro head gasket set, part # 9071PT - about $15US
Fel-Pro valve stem seals, part # SS70829 - about $25US

Fel-Pro also does a head gasket set (part # HS9071PT) for about $130...not sure what it all includes for that price.

[bszopi]

The Fel-Pro head gasket set includes everything required when replacing the heads (except the head bolts). This includes the head gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, TB gasket, valve seals, thermo gasket, injector gaskets, etc...

You will need to buy this anyway, since they will need to replace the valve seals. From there, they can also use the intake gasket to match up the ports and such.

[Daysan]

Thanks! I was told they didn't make anything for our cars.

[jaketuff]

Very glad to hear that you are all doing headwork. It should be very productive. How much have you guys paid for the heads? And they are current 99+ Generation spec right?

Thanks

Pat

[Sorry_Officer]

I bought a set of used heads from a bone yard off a 01' GT with 14,000miles on them. They costed $150.00 for the pair. The head work is costing about $650.00. Install is going to be $850.00 along with my headers, so not only will my heads be done I will also have headers. So I am looking for low to mid 14's:D NA

[Daysan]

I got my heads for $80 on Ebay and had them done for $650 also. I'm doing the install myself though, S&S headers is using my car for a prototype, so I get a free set.