oil brands...what do you think [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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BiHStL
08-14-2005, 12:40 PM
Ive been using Castrol GTX drive hard for the last 6 months or so, also ive been using 10w30 since spring time.

My question is, is the brand of oil good, and should i just switch back to the recomended 5w30 (and is it ok to switch back)

boost21
08-14-2005, 12:41 PM
i just switched to mobil 5000 and it seems ok

CrucialTK
08-14-2005, 12:49 PM
I live in a crazy cold place in MD, should I keep 10W-30 in it?

digitalballz
08-14-2005, 03:55 PM
5w-30. anything that is a brand name will be fine in your car. Just dont use some no-name oil, and you should be fine.

badboy2451
08-14-2005, 04:02 PM
mobil1 FS or royal purple(i think its called that) is a favorite around here

boost21
08-14-2005, 04:42 PM
mobil1 FS or royal purple(i think its called that) is a favorite around here

and at over $5 a quart :crying: :crying:

Mike Jung
08-14-2005, 05:33 PM
I live in a crazy cold place in MD, should I keep 10W-30 in it?
Put back 5W30 motor oil back in it; before winter.

10W30 motor oil is ok to use in the summer.

Mike Jung
08-14-2005, 05:38 PM
Mobil 1 ... is a favorite around here


and at over $5 a quart :crying: :crying:
It costs here locally $7.99Cdn/L = $6.45US per Quart for Mobil 1 or German Castrol Syntec motor oil.

Red Line motor oil (http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp) costs $12.99Cdn/quart = $11US/quart.

DevilSlayer
08-14-2005, 05:39 PM
I use Royal Purple 5w-30. I accidentally put in 10w-30 and in a couple months it was winter. During the winter in MD I have no problems with RP 5w-30, but when I put in 10w-30 a couple years ago it would get really thick and you could very clearly feel it, especially when I didn't have time to let it warm up. Yes its $6 a quart, but its worth it in the gained protection, power, and gas mileage.

The_Wraith
08-25-2005, 06:53 AM
Ive been using Castrol GTX drive hard for the last 6 months or so, also ive been using 10w30 since spring time.

My question is, is the brand of oil good, and should i just switch back to the recomended 5w30 (and is it ok to switch back)


I run Mobil 1 5w30 Extend Life, In my 04, v6.

I use Mobil 1 oil in everything I own, lawn mower, air compressor (the owners manul said it would be wise to used it in this one), my wifes 97 5.0 explorer, all my other cars I had... etc...

I usally run it about 5000, then change it.. but with this new extened life it says you can go 15,000, but I will still change it between 5k-6k, beacue I'm just funny that way about my lube. I pay a little extra for the Extend Life, because if they say it can go 15k (they have added more stuff to it) and I change it a lot sooner, I feel good.... :slayer

Braves299
08-25-2005, 10:56 AM
I live in a crazy cold place in MD, should I keep 10W-30 in it?

Frederick isn't that cold man lol. I'm more upset about the humidity we have here in the summer.

Castrol GTX is what I've always used because it's been recommended by a couple of mechanics I know (Dad and brother). Seems to be good stuff.

PLUM_72
08-25-2005, 11:49 AM
Any oil brand is going to be fine provided it's rated with the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) Starburst rating, which is currently SL and SM. This includes the cheap off-brand oils.

Using the latest classification assures that the oil has the additive package that the manufacturer intended for the engine.

I have taken many cars past the 100K mark using the cheap oil found in the local parts store. After all the oil is only going to be in the engine for 3000 miles.

http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf

Mike Jung
08-25-2005, 05:57 PM
Any oil brand is going to be fine provided it's rated with the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) Starburst rating, which is currently SL and SM. This includes the cheap off-brand oils.

Using the latest classification assures that the oil has the additive package that the manufacturer intended for the engine.

I have taken many cars past the 100K mark using the cheap oil found in the local parts store. After all the oil is only going to be in the engine for 3000 miles.

http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf
:nono: I say screw the API rating.
API ratings are weaksauce; even some cheap-ass oils meet that rating.

I prefer to use the current European 'performance' ratings.
Example: ACEA A5 or (even better IMO) A3.

Actually API SM in the synthetic motor oil world, is actually worse (IMO).
WEAKER addictive package (reduction in limits for certain addictives)

Like my '04 generation of German made Castrol Syntec 0W30 synthetic motor oil is only rated API SL.
& will never quailfy as an "Energy Conserving"/'API Starburst Certified' gasoline motor oil because it is too thick -> almost a 40-weight motor oil at normal operating temperatures.
It has too much ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates) (IIRC or something else in the addictive package) to meet API SM spec's.
Even the 'new' generation '05 doesn't meet API SM rating, just API SL lol
But it is ACEA A3 rated :thumbs:
& can go in BMW's (non-M series), all Audi/VW's, all Mercedes (now meets 229.5 spec), & all Porsche's (but Porsche now wants a xW-40 oil in them, but still it met their previous spec's)

But for dino motor oil; API SM is an improvement (must use better base stock of oil).

Mike Jung
08-25-2005, 09:42 PM
Ive been using Castrol GTX drive hard for the last 6 months or so, also ive been using 10w30 since spring time.

My question is, is the brand of oil good, and should i just switch back to the recomended 5w30 (and is it ok to switch back)

(If not using synthetic motor oil.)
Yes, Castrol GTX dino oil is good.

I also heard was good things about Pennzoil & Mobil Clean 5000 dino oil.



Put back 5W30 motor oil back in it; before winter.

10W30 motor oil is ok to use in the summer.
Yes, it is ok to switch back & forth different oil grades, for different seasonal climates.

Mike Jung
08-25-2005, 09:46 PM
I use Royal Purple 5w-30.

Yes its $6 a quart, but its worth it in the gained protection, power, and gas mileage.
Protection is questionable, to some.
(But not defintely not bad.)

Power & gas mileage:
Properly because the RP oil sheared down to a 20-weight oil by the time you changed it.

DevilSlayer
08-25-2005, 10:38 PM
Protection is questionable, to some.
(But not defintely not bad.)

Power & gas mileage:
Properly because the RP oil sheared down to a 20-weight oil by the time you changed it.
I was reading the UOA on the BITOG forum. I remember someone saying that theres probably a lot of blow-by from this guy's LS1 that lowered the oil's TBN and caused it to lose a little weight. And anything syn oil is probably gonna protect a good amount better then cheap ass oil. And screw API. API just released a new set of standards that lowers the amount of additives, and additives are what enhance the oil (longer life, better friction reduction, reduced oxidation, reduced foaming, etc.) I'm pretty sure Royal Purple does not meet API standards.

PLUM_72
08-27-2005, 08:22 PM
:nono: I say screw the API rating.
API ratings are weaksauce; even some cheap-ass oils meet that rating.

I prefer to use the current European 'performance' ratings.
Example: ACEA A5 or (even better IMO) A3.

Even the 'new' generation '05 doesn't meet API SM rating, just API SL lol
But it is ACEA A3 rated :thumbs:
& can go in BMW's (non-M series), all Audi/VW's, all Mercedes (now meets 229.5 spec), & all Porsche's (but Porsche now wants a xW-40 oil in them, but still it met their previous spec's)

But for dino motor oil; API SM is an improvement (must use better base stock of oil).

So you're gonna spend top dollar for an oil to go into a GM3400 engine? Maybe you should save your money and use the cheap stuff and change your oil a little more often. All that money you save you can put it in your piggy bank and save for the prize Mercedes Audi and Porsche cars you quote.

Take a look at the GM 3400 and compare it to a top of the line european engine. They're not even in the same class when it comes to internal specs. But hey it's you're money....waste it.... LOL!!
:heh:

Mike Jung
08-27-2005, 09:24 PM
Any oil brand is going to be fine provided it's rated with the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) Starburst rating, which is currently SL and SM. This includes the cheap off-brand oils.

Using the latest classification assures that the oil has the additive package that the manufacturer intended for the engine.

I have taken many cars past the 100K mark using the cheap oil found in the local parts store. After all the oil is only going to be in the engine for 3000 miles.

http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_MotorOilGuide_2004.pdf
:nono: I say screw the API rating.
API ratings are weaksauce; even some cheap-ass oils meet that rating.

I prefer to use the current European 'performance' ratings.
Example: ACEA A5 or (even better IMO) A3.

Actually API SM in the synthetic motor oil world, is actually worse (IMO).
WEAKER addictive package (reduction in limits for certain addictives)

Like my '04 generation of German made Castrol Syntec 0W30 synthetic motor oil is only rated API SL.
& will never quailfy as an "Energy Conserving"/'API Starburst Certified' gasoline motor oil because it is too thick -> almost a 40-weight motor oil at normal operating temperatures.
It has too much ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates) (IIRC or something else in the addictive package) to meet API SM spec's.
Even the 'new' generation '05 doesn't meet API SM rating, just API SL lol
But it is ACEA A3 rated :thumbs:
& can go in BMW's (non-M series), all Audi/VW's, all Mercedes (now meets 229.5 spec), & all Porsche's (but Porsche now wants a xW-40 oil in them, but still it met their previous spec's)

But for dino motor oil; API SM is an improvement (must use better base stock of oil).
So you're gonna spend top dollar for an oil to go into a GM3400 engine? Maybe you should save your money and use the cheap stuff and change your oil a little more often. All that money you save you can put it in your piggy bank and save for the prize Mercedes Audi and Porsche cars you quote.

Take a look at the GM 3400 and compare it to a top of the line european engine. They're not even in the same class when it comes to internal specs. But hey it's you're money....waste it.... LOL!!
:heh:
What's with the flaming ?
Did I attack you ?
I was just stating facts.

German Castrol Syntec motor oil is considered by some, to be one of the best OTC, PAO blended with Ester base synthetic motor oil.
It is the same cost as Mobil 1 PAO based synthetic motor oil.
& I choose to use a synthetic motor oil for it's benefits.
Why shouldn't I be a choosey shopper when it comes to synthetic motor oil, when it is the same price as others.

Are you saying all users of 'synthetic' motor oils in our GA's are stupid ?
I know that I am glad that I have synthetic motor oil when:
it is -25 to -30C [-13 to -22F] outside & my GA is parked outside 24/7;
it is over 35C [95F] outside & you are stuck in downtown traffic with the AC on.

I have my oil changed every 6-months with German Castrol Syntec 0W30 & a Napa Gold (Wix) over-sized oil filter.
I could of decided to go 1-year (that synthetic motor oil could easily handle that) or if the oil change monitor goes off; but I decided to be on the conservative side.
At 105K km [65K miles], if you look in my crankcase: you will see no varnish or sludge.
When a GM dealer did my LIM gasket repair (under warranty), they were surprise how clean the inside of my engine was at 75K km [46.6K miles] & 5-years old.


Not that it is any of your business !
I save just over half of my paycheques net; & it is not like I make much either (I am just a lowly paid service Rep.).
It goes into stock based mutual funds & a retirement portfolio of mutual funds.
All my 'assets' are earned by me; & non were given to me.
I also offer advise in my Mom's investments; even though she has a personal financial advisor, that manages her money.
& also offer any investment advice IMO to close co-workers that ask.

& you must be stupid to put money in the 'piggy' bank, to be eroded by inflation.
or if you are talking about in a bank account: you'll have about 50% tax on the interest earnings to be taxed on your income taxes (aleast in Canada).


Even GM TSB talking about oil spec's for GM vehicles in 'foreign' countries call for ACEA A3 rated oil, if API SL oil is not available.
See thread: Motor Oil Viscosity ? (http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31096)
Which is stupid, considering ACEA A3 is like one of the top spec's for high-performance & long-life of a motor oil; & is clearly superior to API spec's.


So know what you are talking about before posting.


If you want to talk about oil fine, but if you want to flame me STFU.

scotiez
08-27-2005, 09:34 PM
I use Mobil 1 5w-30 in my 2004 GT. I wanted synthetic because of the cold temps in the winter here. Using Mobil 1 5w-30 in the winter, makes it start like its the middle of summer here with better cold starting protection. Sure it may cost more to buy it, But i now change it at 6000 miles instead of 3000, so the cost is pretty much the same. Also most of my driving are short intown trips, so using synthetic gives better protection for that kind of driving.

Mike Jung
08-28-2005, 12:25 AM
Talking about additives in motor oil:

It is kind of funny the new Mobil 1 EP synthetic motor oil that has 36% 'more' additives in it, does NOT meet API SM.
(While the new generation of Mobil 1 synthetic motor does.
Except Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W40: which is just re-bottled Mobil Delvac 1 diesel engine synthetic motor oil; that is heavy in additives.)

Mobil 1 EP is just rated API SL.

lol

brsexton
08-28-2005, 07:05 AM
I use Castrol GTX in my Ecotec.. It is fine so far.

PLUM_72
08-28-2005, 07:18 PM
There is no reason to flame...There is also no reason to spend more than two bucks for a quart of oil either. Many people, myself included have taken cars over 100k and 200k miles by using cheap motor oil avalable at the parts store. The oil at the local parts store usually has the latest API grade.
If you wanna spend money on pricey super oil...go for it, its your cash. But make no mistake you'll do just as well, mileage and performance with plain jane dino oil.
:balla:

stangdude
08-28-2005, 08:22 PM
Synthetic oil is great for had driving conditions like cold weather or high heat, but for most of the country that experiences both, I'd just stick with a conventional 5w30 oil. As far as brands, I've seen the guts of many motors and am sold on the performance and protection from Valvoline and Castrol oils. Quaker State is okay, but I'd stay away from Pennzoil, it creates a wax based sludge in the motor. I've personally run Valvoline in my last car, (91 cougar) and after 150k miles had to tear the top end off of the motor, and the inside looked brand new, hardly no wear, that sold me on Valvoline right there, It's the same thing I run in my Grand Am now. 5w30 conventional with changes every 3k miles.

spartan0199
08-30-2005, 12:01 PM
SuperTech 5W30 motor oil from Walmart - 90,000 miles and counting.

DevilSlayer
08-30-2005, 01:32 PM
SuperTech 5W30 motor oil from Walmart - 90,000 miles and counting.
90,000 miles on the oil? Assuming you've run 90k on the car using that brand.

Braves299
08-30-2005, 01:34 PM
^I think he means that's what he's used for the last 90,000 miles. I'm sure he changes it often though.

The_Wraith
09-01-2005, 05:40 AM
Yeah I noticed that too, not sure what the SM standard is, but the Mobil 1 EP is ACEA A1,B1,A5,B5, isn't the A5 a tough Euro standard?

This is what I put in my car.


Talking about additives in motor oil:

It is kind of funny the new Mobil 1 EP synthetic motor oil that has 36% 'more' additives in it, does NOT meet API SM.
(While the new generation of Mobil 1 synthetic motor does.
Except Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W40: which is just re-bottled Mobil Delvac 1 diesel engine synthetic motor oil; that is heavy in additives.)

Mobil 1 EP is just rated API SL.

lol

Mike Jung
09-01-2005, 08:57 AM
Talking about additives in motor oil:

It is kind of funny the new Mobil 1 EP synthetic motor oil that has 36% 'more' additives in it, does NOT meet API SM.
(While the new generation of Mobil 1 synthetic motor does.
Except Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5W40: which is just re-bottled Mobil Delvac 1 diesel engine synthetic motor oil; that is heavy in additives.)

Mobil 1 EP is just rated API SL.

lol
Yeah I noticed that too, not sure what the SM standard is, but the Mobil 1 EP is ACEA A1,B1,A5,B5, isn't the A5 a tough Euro standard?

This is what I put in my car.
ACEA EUROPEAN OIL SEQUENCES - 2004 (http://www.acea.be/ASB/Download.nsf/Category0Files/F5167E6B75D68AF5C1256F4600263CD9/$File/ACEA2004%20oil%20sequences-DEF.pdf)

ACEA A/B : gasoline and diesel engine oils:

Basic Gasoline engine oil = ACEA A1/B1
"Oil intended for use in gasoline and car + light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPas.s...."

Yes, ACEA A5/B5 is a 'higher' standard.
"Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear
rate viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s...."

The highest performance standard being ACEA A3.
"Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils,
and/or for sever operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer."
High temperature / High shear rate visocity of 3.5 & up.


ACEA A5 oils are generally thinner than ACEA A3 rated oils.
A5 generally meets 'energy conserving', A3 generally doesn't.
A3 having a HT/HS rating of 3.5 or greater will not shear or burn off as fast as an A5 rated oil (that has a HT/HS rating of less than 3.5).

Mike Jung
09-01-2005, 09:13 AM
...not sure what the SM standard is...
API Engine Oil Classifications 2004 - Passenger Car Engine Test Category For API SM (http://www.infineum.com/information/api-passenger-sm-2004.html)


ILSAC GF-4 Standard For Passenger Car Engine Oils (http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/ILSAC%20Final%20Standard%20January%2014,%202004%20 rev%20060104.pdf)

GM Supports Latest ILSAC Engine Oil Upgrade (http://www.gm.com/automotive/fueleconomy/oil_upgrade.html)

"...Note: Most oils will not display the ILSAC GF-4 designation.
To tell whether an oil which has the API Starburst symbol is also ILSAC GF-4, it may be necessary to look for the API S designation (usually found in the donut-shaped symbol on the back of an oil container).
If it says API Service SM, the Starburst oil will be GF-4.
If it says something else (like API Service SL or API Service SJ), the oil is most likely not ILSAC GF-4."

spartan0199
09-02-2005, 05:36 AM
Yes, I meant I've been using inexpensive (cheap!) oil since I bought the car. Change it every 5,000 miles.

nascarnate326
09-08-2005, 08:42 AM
I use Mobile 5000. I think its the best out there. $2.36/ quart for me.

D0M1N8R
09-09-2005, 11:41 PM
Screw synthetic oils.. Too much money. I get the factory recommended 5w-30 year round. I dunno bout most of you but its worked great for them -10F days and them 105F days with AC on.

Ive also heard that once you go synthetic you must continue using synthetic oil because switching back to normal oil may damage the engine. Is this true?

Mike Jung
09-09-2005, 11:45 PM
...Ive also heard that once you go synthetic you must continue using synthetic oil because switching back to normal oil may damage the engine.
Is this true?
:nono:

D0M1N8R
09-09-2005, 11:47 PM
oh boy.. guess some questions are better off not asked at all? LoL

Wait till I have a talk with the so called mechanic that said that.

DevilSlayer
09-10-2005, 09:12 AM
Its more like you'll get best results if you continue to use the same brand and grade of synthetic oil. Switching back and foward won't damage the engine, but you won't get the results you're expecting.