what to order for LIM gasket change? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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Plug
01-25-2006, 02:51 PM
What's going on guys? Well I've been living on borrowed time and it is now time to grab the bull by the horns and tear into my girlfriends '99 GT to replace the infamous LIM gasket. It has been leaking for over a year now and it's too the point where I have to add coolant every 1-2 days.

My question is this. What secrets do you people have to make my life under the hood of this car a little easier??


I will be ordering these parts, am I missing anything??

-LIM kit
-thermostat & gasket
-6 liters of Dexcool
-5 liters oil
-rad cleaner (since I see a golden brown sludge in the coolant bottle)
-RTV sealant (heads)
-pipe sealant (manifold mounting bolts)
-permatex#2 sealant for the block drain plugs
-spark plugs
-possibly a new Serpentine belt

Will brake clean be alright to clean all parts??

Thanx for the help

boost21
01-25-2006, 02:55 PM
looks fine, but has the car ever overheated since it went out?? u can do some serious damage driving with a leaky lim

iceman
01-25-2006, 02:57 PM
Next time please use a thread title that doesn't suck... I changed it.

Have o-rings handy, you'd be amazed how easily they disappear when disconnecting the fuel rail. And we don't have fan belts, serpentine belts yes. Might want to change it while it is off, can't hurt. Maybe some hose clamps, sometimes the heater hoses won't sit right again the way they were w/ those crap stock clamps

Plug
01-25-2006, 03:27 PM
Sorry Ice. I figured guys had seen enuff LIM threads so I went with what I had. Fan belt...my bad.:amraam:

I thought it overheated once, lotta steem com'n out from under hood...but it turned out that I forgot to put the coolant cap back on after a top up.:hammer: But no it has never over heated. I guess I nursed it well.

How messy is it release the pressure from fuel system, and when all is said and done, does it pressureize itself when I go to start it up??

Plug
01-25-2006, 05:29 PM
Just got off the phone with a local GM parts guy and he tells me I need to replace the bolts (8-10) at $11 a piece. I am guessing the man. bolts.

So far the cost of just gaskets and seals are around $320. Does this sound right to you???? Plus fluids and other misc sh!t about $400.

I was under the impression I could do this job for around $200 in my garage. Oh well gotta do it:banghead

eric99gt
01-25-2006, 05:32 PM
don't need the bolts...they just come preapplied with threadlocker. Buy some of that and you're good to go.

eric99gt
01-25-2006, 05:33 PM
I just did one of these as well and it came out to about $150

Plug
01-25-2006, 06:07 PM
Alright here's the low down. Eric thanx for the heads up on the bolts. Ima gonna go your route on this one. :D Saving $100 on the parts with your sug. Still $220 for gaskets. Is it nec to change both valve cover gaskets? Ima gonna do em both but was just wondering.

Just spoke to a local well respected shop on the LIM matter, and he tells me the problem with the leak is not the gasket it is in fact the dexcool crap antifreeze that GM swears by. Alum head, cast block gasket in between gets raped by the Dexcool.:hump:

He says flush the hell outta the motor and by the old fashioned green antifreezee refill and good to go. :applause:

Gm has gotta good little scam going on here with the Dexcool

iceman
01-25-2006, 06:35 PM
I got all the gaskets on ebay.. after incidentals and beer repair was around $100

Plug
01-25-2006, 06:51 PM
I got all the gaskets on ebay.. after incidentals and beer repair was around $100

Ok Iceman you don't need to rub it in.:angel

I can't wait for the parts to arrive ebay so I guess I'm left to pay the price of convenience by shopping local.

Plug
01-25-2006, 06:52 PM
yeah and I'll bet the beer cost more than the parts.

eric99gt
01-25-2006, 07:14 PM
Alright here's the low down. Eric thanx for the heads up on the bolts. Ima gonna go your route on this one. :D Saving $100 on the parts with your sug. Still $220 for gaskets. Is it nec to change both valve cover gaskets? Ima gonna do em both but was just wondering.

Just spoke to a local well respected shop on the LIM matter, and he tells me the problem with the leak is not the gasket it is in fact the dexcool crap antifreeze that GM swears by. Alum head, cast block gasket in between gets raped by the Dexcool.:hump:

He says flush the hell outta the motor and by the old fashioned green antifreezee refill and good to go. :applause:

Gm has gotta good little scam going on here with the Dexcool

another uninformed opinion by your mechanic.....why is this not happening to all GM motors that use dexcool? Just the 3x00?

Plug
01-25-2006, 07:18 PM
another uninformed opinion by your mechanic.....why is this not happening to all GM motors that use dexcool? Just the 3x00?


OK you tell me?

The gasket is made of two materials if I remember correctly and as soon as dex gets between them then the rubber part of the gasket starts to deteriorate. Am I right?

GAGT7386
01-25-2006, 07:27 PM
It has nothing to do with the DEX-COOL, it has everything to do with how the engine sits in our engine bays. The most common places to have the leak is right where the gasket meets in the "v" shaped area. The angle is to steep to have anything seal well enough to withstand the pressure that the engine is subject to on a daily basis. It was poor design that failed these LIM gaskets and why it hasn't been an issue with other cars is because the morons at GM learned from their mistakes and fixed the issue.

Plug
01-25-2006, 08:10 PM
Well any rate Ima still going to run the old school green antifreeze when I put it back together. No harm in that right. As long as I flush it really good and don't mix with orange.

What is a good coolant system cleaner available? I want to get the sludge out of the motor.

MattBatt
01-26-2006, 12:11 PM
Maybe some hose clamps, sometimes the heater hoses won't sit right again the way they were w/ those crap stock clamps

I'm not a mechanic let's just get that out of the way first.
I have had a slow very slow radiator leak for over a year and a half now. I had the system pressure tested a new thermostat, a new overflow/radiator cap, finally the problem got bad enough that I tracked it down to the hoses going to and from the heater core (actually the guy at just brakes did but it had become very obvious) so i replace them (what a pain in the ass the lower ones are) but it is still leaking but now it's up top where the quick disconnect is. Discount Autoparts and Napa don't have the quick disconnect and before I go running up to GM I just wanted to know If Iceman you had problems with new hoses or the old hoses? I can see the old hoses are all disformed from the clamps but are the screw and band type hose clamps better?

MattBatt
01-26-2006, 04:20 PM
here is an update I went to Autozone and I had to buy a Hose repair kit or extender kit or something like that it came with two clamps and a brass fitting to put between two hoses. Not really all that important except that I'm ****ed that it cost $5.
I take off the hose pull off the GM clamp, put the generic one on, put it together, start the car to bleed the air out and the quick disconnect is peeing all over my engine bay. It has a tiny hole in it and it's just squirting all over the effing place. The disconnect has two levels and the hole is on the bigger size so I jammed the hose up around it and put both clamps back on gm to hold the hose tight and the generic to hold the hole closed.
I couldn't get the "speed Clip" off and I have had bad luck with these things before on the fuel filter.
So I'm giving up and going to take it to Tuffy or Pep Boys or a "Real Man" who can take off the Speed clip.

Plug
01-26-2006, 05:05 PM
So is it ok to use the old head bolts with thread lock??

eric99gt
01-26-2006, 05:25 PM
head bolts are torque to yield. i.e. you need new ones.

Plug
01-27-2006, 10:56 AM
you posted earlier in this same thread that

[QUOTE]don't need the bolts...they just come preapplied with threadlocker. Buy some of that and you're good to go.[QUOTE]

So which is it

GAGT7386
01-27-2006, 04:14 PM
Just did mine about 3 months ago, just go buy some threadlocker and you're fine.

iceman
01-27-2006, 05:00 PM
lim bolts - threadlock
head bolts - torque to yield - replace

eric99gt
01-27-2006, 05:26 PM
Just got off the phone with a local GM parts guy and he tells me I need to replace the bolts (8-10) at $11 a piece. I am guessing the man. bolts.

So far the cost of just gaskets and seals are around $320. Does this sound right to you???? Plus fluids and other misc sh!t about $400.

I was under the impression I could do this job for around $200 in my garage. Oh well gotta do it:banghead

you posted earlier in this same thread that

[quote]don't need the bolts...they just come preapplied with threadlocker. Buy some of that and you're good to go.[quote]

So which is it

No...as you can see. You said the manifold bolts right up top there. And I gave you the answer for that. Then you asked about the head bolts. I answered you again about those. Different parts of the motor.

Plug
01-28-2006, 12:57 AM
Yea I realized that after I logged out and went out to the garage to start stripping the engine down. Sorry my bad.

Any ways all done the LIM I am going to leave it over night to let the RTV cure and flush the cooling system out tomorrow with the block drain plugs out. I cleaned out the coolant bottle and holy sh!it I could not believe the amout of sludge in there.

I hate that initial moment of truth when you take her out for a test drive.

Hope she holds. I am confident in my work but there is always that little bit of doubt. I don't want to have to go in there to repair it again.

Chevylover54
01-30-2006, 08:27 PM
One thing that wasn't stated enough was make sure you have o-rings for your fuel line to fuel rail connection. That is probably the most overlooked thing. When I changed my LIM gasket I found out the hard way. Got everything back together and saw the fuel leak from that connection.

Plug
01-30-2006, 09:53 PM
LMAO yeah I lost one to the vacuum. I boiught a few xtra so in case i lost more. I put the LIM on with new rtv, torqued the bolts then guess what happens....I lost an injecter o-ring down inside the LIM. Fkuc I say...pull apart the LIM and fish out the said 0-ring and clean the mating surfaces and reapply rtv then back together with the LIM.

I couldn't help but to laugh cause I knew in the back of my mind that it was probly gonna happen.

Plug
01-31-2006, 02:19 PM
Here are a few pics I took of the LIM. Notice the contamination in the water gallery. It was completely plugged but I stopped to grab a pic.

Plug
01-31-2006, 02:23 PM
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2222979/4 For cleaner pics.

Graxall
01-31-2006, 04:49 PM
I got my UIM and LIM done about 5 monthes ago, at first it was my LIM leaking so i went to get that done and when the mechanic took my UIM off it was cracked at the corner where a bolt holds it in so i had that done too, after discount because i knew the owner of the shop, cost me around 600 for everything...3-4days to do...no problems since..

edit: oh yea heres some pics of it > http://www.cardomain.com/ride/690319/6