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angrysk8r
03-24-2006, 11:52 PM
I did the LIM change, got everything put back together...and now when I start the car it will start but it will rev to about 3k, then the rpms will drop and the car will die, unless i keep my foot on the throttle. Also when it dies, there is smoke coming from somewhere near the front exhaust manifold....I think near the thermostat housing or somewhere around there...it's throwing an SES code and I should be able to find out what it is tomorrow with my friends scan tool, but does anyone know what it could possibly be? I havn't yet been able to bleed the coolant system (but I have added coolant and oil).

ViperGTSR
03-25-2006, 12:02 AM
have u LOOKED at the oil? sounds like something went horribly wrong...

like the coolant is leaking into the oil, and vica versa very fast. I thought maybe at first it was just MAF wasnt hooked up or TB wasnt hooke dback up, then u mentioned smoke...thats not good!

first question: did you make sure to put RTV in the low spot between gaskets where the lim touches the block?
second: is everythign torqued down correctly.

angrysk8r
03-25-2006, 01:44 AM
yes, i torqued everything correctly and did put rtv sealant on the ridges....yea...smoke=scary

angrysk8r
03-25-2006, 12:12 PM
Well whatever SES code was on went off...Now when I start it it doesn't smoke as much or at all (but it still does most of the time)...as long as I keep on the gas petal around 2k it wont die but if i let off the rpms drop, the car revs back up to 3k, then dies...I could really use some help here cause I have no clue what could be causing this...Could it be caused by air in the coolant system (since it hasn't been bled yet)? I'm pretty certain that coolant isn't getting in the oil and oil isn't getting in the coolant...I checked the oil, it looks normal and is up to the full mark, and same w/ the coolant

I can really use any and all help

EDIT: ses code came back on...it said engine misfire detected...it didn't specify a cylender however

EDIT 2: Now there is a high pitch whistle and the idle won't drop from 2500.

dna_dan
03-25-2006, 03:20 PM
Not trying to flame your intelligence or anything, but are you sure you got the right units on your torque wrench? That Haynes manual sometimes give in/lbs and you have to convert it to ft/lbs for the torque wrench. At least that is what I had to do to use my wrench.

If you have white smoke, that is indicative of your cylanders burning oil. The first thing I can think of is if you torqued the valves too much the valve may not seat all the way closed on the downstroke of the pistion. That means you will get some oil past the valve and during the next stroke it will burn. Another possibility of getting oil in the cylander is if there is something wrong with the valve seals, but this is highly unlikely since you did not mess with the springs and retainers.

I am also sure you replaced the pushrods in the correct order? That could have devastating effects on the engine. Bending pushrods, valves, and what not.

The high pitched noise, is it a sucking sound? I have that problem right now and it turns out I have an injector that is leaking ever so slightly. Even thought the fuel rail mounted on the LIM just fine, the injector still isn't seated all the way.

As for the car wanting to die, I would look at the fuel system. Did you make sure the O-ring on the fuel rail was intact and not mutilated? You might have it obstructing the fuel and it's choking off the motor. I mention this only because you say it will run as long as you step on the gas.

Just a few things to check!

BTarb24
03-25-2006, 03:39 PM
i just replaced my headgasket this week... my fuel rail/injectors were a HUGE pain to pop free. Once out, all the o-rings had dust/debri caked on them. We lubed them up real well with grease before putting them back in. If you had the same problem then either an injector might not be seated correctly or possibly, if lubed, some grease is stuck in the injector.

heres how i would troubleshoot:

swap plug wires between the misfiring cyl and another to see if its a bad wire.

I'd swap spark plugs between two cyl holes and see if the misfire changes cylinders. if it does then its a plug.

if ur RPMs are so high then i'd check to make sure that the ball on the throttle cable is seated correctly down slightly into the throttle body half-circle, spring loaded, part.

triple check all vacuum hose and electrical connections.

last resort.. take off the fuel rail and verifiy that you still have all 12 o-rings in their proper place. I found it incredibly easier to have the o-rings on the injectors and not in the sockets before reseating the rail. I heard a story once where someones o-ring got sucked off and stuck in the fuel passage within the rail... but anyway, i'd check the injectors/ o-rings.

you could also, while in there anyway, move the injector for the mis-firing cyl to another cyl and see if your code moves as well. if it does then i'd say bad or clogged injector.


what did your smoke smell like? exhaust, burning fluids, burning rubber? also, stick ur nose in the upper intaker manifold gaps and see if u can smell gas.

does the exhaust out of your tailpipe smell lean?

any fluids under car?

i dont know how.. but you could also do a compression check on the cyls.



that's all i can think of.. hope something out of it helps you. .. oh and my car has only ran for about 10 minutes after the head gasket change, but it was smoking the entire time due to left over fluids on the exhaust manifolds, hopefully that's all your smoke is too.

BTarb24
03-25-2006, 03:42 PM
oh.. and did you make sure to put on both of the injector clips per injector?

BTarb24
03-25-2006, 03:44 PM
sorry, one last thing.. also, not sure how, but possibly check/test your O2 sensors. your comptuer could be receiving a bad reading and over-compensating until it goes too lean/rich and smothers itself.

digitalballz
03-25-2006, 04:49 PM
white smoke means your burning coolant not oil. 02 sensors almost always go bad when doing a head gasket, but not as often when doing an intake. good possibility that the injectors arent aseated correctly, allthough there is no need to take them out of the intake in the first place.

angrysk8r
03-25-2006, 05:28 PM
I did a double check on all the smoke...it's definately coolant that I accidentally got on the manifolds
When I reinstalled the pushrods, I made very sure that they were in the correct order...so I'm certain that they aren't the problem, I'm also very sure I torqued them right (according the the haynes specifications) and the torque wrench I used had units in in/lbs (besides...could you imagine tightening those side lim bolts to 115 ft/lbs instead of in/lbs!?)
I've also tried doing the plug wire switches, it didn't make any difference at all, although I'll purchase some new plug wires to see if they will help
There aren't any fluids or coolant under my car (I guess I got the LIM on right :-) Before I changed it the old one was leaking all over)
I checked all the electrical connections, coolant connections, fuel connections, pcv lines, etc and they all looked allright
The code the car gave me was P0300...which means multiple/random misfires if iirc, and from what I've read above I'm pretty sure it must be the fuel injector o rings...although I dont smell fuel...I tried to reuse the old ones because I didn't want to make another trip out to the parts store :banghead

I'll go to napa or somewhere and get some new o rings and clean the injectors, and hopefully that should fix it

dna_dan
03-25-2006, 11:51 PM
Ah yes you are correct, if the car was burning oil the smoke would be "blue". :amraam:

Smoke of any kind coming out the tailpipe is bad bad bad. Make sure it's just burning off the motor and not coming out of your tailpipe.

As for your leaky injector, I can tell you I have one leaking right now, and I don't smell fuel at all. It seems to leak more air when the engine is hot and the metal expands a bit.

The o-ring I was referring to is the one opposite the fuel regulator. I think it's called the fuel return. It screws into the fuel rail and there is an o-ring in there. The first time I had mine apart, I didn't take note of it. I put it back together and it never leaked like others here reported. The second time I had mine apart, I found out that the o-ring was not sitting in the right groove on the flange and I had actually screwed the flange against it and ripped the gasket to hell. It was enough to keep it from leaking, but it was mangled to hell. I was suggesting that perhaps you have this gasket obstructing the flow of fuel in the rail.

digitalballz
03-26-2006, 03:02 PM
If the injector is not seated correctly then it will create a vacuum leak and cause your car to stall/run like ish. As for smoke out of the tailpipe, if you just didi a big job 99.9% of the time you spill crap in the motor, or exhaust in some way. once you figure out what is causing the stalling let it run to clean out all of the crap in there.

angrysk8r
03-26-2006, 03:21 PM
Ah yes you are correct, if the car was burning oil the smoke would be "blue". :amraam:

Smoke of any kind coming out the tailpipe is bad bad bad. Make sure it's just burning off the motor and not coming out of your tailpipe.

As for your leaky injector, I can tell you I have one leaking right now, and I don't smell fuel at all. It seems to leak more air when the engine is hot and the metal expands a bit.

The o-ring I was referring to is the one opposite the fuel regulator. I think it's called the fuel return. It screws into the fuel rail and there is an o-ring in there. The first time I had mine apart, I didn't take note of it. I put it back together and it never leaked like others here reported. The second time I had mine apart, I found out that the o-ring was not sitting in the right groove on the flange and I had actually screwed the flange against it and ripped the gasket to hell. It was enough to keep it from leaking, but it was mangled to hell. I was suggesting that perhaps you have this gasket obstructing the flow of fuel in the rail.

There was no smoke coming out the tailpipe, it was all on the manifolds
and I took a second look at that o ring...its in pretty bad shape...do you know the exact size or can I just go to napa and ask them for the fuel return o ring?

also, now that I have the injectors outside of the fuel rail...is there an easy way to clean them myself?

dna_dan
03-26-2006, 07:15 PM
That o-ring was difficult for me to find. The dealer didn't even carry it. I would not suggest putting in any old o-ring. That o-ring is fuel tolerant so it doesn't get decomposed by the fuel. If you slap any old o-ring in there, it might eventually decompose, running that crap through your motor, then your fuel rail will piss gasoline all over the motor and you will have a big mess on your hands. Do it right the first time and make sure you get the right one. I took my chewed up o-ring down to the auto place and actually measured that sucker with calipers. This isn't a fix you want to do twice.

About cleaning injectors, I just squirted some gumout on mine and cleaned them a little bit. From what I gather, they arent' the most durable of parts. When you seat them back in, the o-ring portion should completely go into the intake, and the tapered seal should be seated on the manifold.