Sludge in the engine, clean it up or just let it be? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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B0000rt
07-08-2006, 09:47 PM
So I started the LIM removal.


It's my 2nd day at it (6hours total) and I've finally removed the LIM!


There seems to be quite a bit of sludge buildup, I guess I really can't do anything at this point, but I've heard of guys throwing their heads and intake manifolds into a large bucket of carb cleaner overnight, but I don't have enough expertise to remove the heads, or do I... While it's out, shoudl I just goahead and remove the heads and soak them in some carb cleaner overnight?


It's a 3100 with atleast 200k kms on her, and 376k kms on the body (engine was replaced from a junker when the body was at 290k kms and I figure the engine had atleast 120k kms on it already).




http://www.cs.yorku.ca/~cs231104/sludge.jpg

timka86
07-08-2006, 10:53 PM
I"d clean it up. that's sludge is just going to end up back in the engine. I just used Simple Green engine degreeser, spray it on, let it sit for ten minutes, and then use a bruch with plastic bristles, or nylon bristles,

I didn't have that much build up, it would be wise to clean it.

Bonnor
07-08-2006, 10:56 PM
if u didn't it would just cause problems down the road there buddy

B0000rt
07-09-2006, 12:04 AM
if u didn't it would just cause problems down the road there buddy

With 376k kms already ticking, you think the car really has that much longer to live :p

The thing is, the block and heads look like that too. Isn't it quite another huge job to take off the heads?

GTJEFF
07-09-2006, 12:16 AM
With 376k kms already ticking, you think the car really has that much longer to live :p

The thing is, the block and heads look like that too. Isn't it quite another huge job to take off the heads?


Fock it, get a Haynes and dig in.

Panacea
07-09-2006, 12:25 AM
Run Seafoam through the crankcase?

B0000rt
07-09-2006, 12:28 AM
Run Seafoam through the crankcase?
But something's bound to break off and clog an oil passge or something critical :(

I may just take off the heads if it doesn't involve too much work. But then again, cleaning up the heads won't really do much, as the block probably looks like that too! :(

digitalballz
07-09-2006, 09:42 AM
You need to change your oil more often. I dont know if they have it in Canada, but we use this stuff called lube guard. they make products for every part of your car, but the engine cleaner, and additive work great. Before you change the oil you put in the cleaner, and let it run for 10 - 15 mins, then change the oil, and add the additive after. Works great!

Mike Jung
07-09-2006, 09:58 AM
If you are not going to take apart your engine to clean it.
(Don't forget what is in your oil pan too!)

You can try a couple of treatments of:
Auto-RX (http://www.auto-rx.com)

People at Bob is the Oil Guy.com forums (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi) swear by it.

& (/or)
Running some Diesel heavy duty engine oil for a few oil changes (during the summer) wouldn't hurt either; to help clean it it.
(Diesel heavy duty engine oils has more detergents in it.)

Mike Jung
07-09-2006, 07:03 PM
PS: Check & Change the PCV Valve !

digitalballz
07-09-2006, 07:17 PM
good call

B0000rt
07-09-2006, 10:25 PM
PS: Check & Change the PCV Valve !
Yeah, but I think I inherited the sludge, if you look at the heads, they're in much better shape, than the underside of the LIM as seen in the picture.

Oil change was always done at less than 5k kms on dino, and less than 10k kms on syn.

B0000rt
07-10-2006, 12:50 AM
Well regardless, I started to scrape/clean the underside of the LIM..

Oh man it's taking forever :(

Should I throw in a flushing oil (0W30 or something) before I put in my real oil?

@PCV change, it's usually swaped at my yearly 'spring cleaning' heh I need sleep, the carb cleaner fumes are getitng to me :drool:

Mike Jung
07-10-2006, 09:31 AM
Should I throw in a flushing oil (0W30 or something) before I put in my real oil?...
lol Made in Germany - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 synthetic motor oil is my regular oil lol
(A different viscosity oil is not going help clean it.)

I think you mean fill it up with cheapest dino oil & filter with a flushing solvent/cleaner.
& after following the instrustions: do a oil & oil filter change.
It is controversy whether or not that is too strong/fast of a cleaner; causing big chunks to break apart.


IMO: Use a Diesel heavy duty engine oil for awhile until fall comes.


PS: What brand/type of "synthetic" motor oil were you using to 10K km/ 6.2K miles ?

B0000rt
07-13-2006, 10:00 AM
lol Made in Germany - Castrol Syntec 0W-30 synthetic motor oil is my regular oil lol
(A different viscosity oil is not going help clean it.)

I think you mean fill it up with cheapest dino oil & filter with a flushing solvent/cleaner.
& after following the instrustions: do a oil & oil filter change.
It is controversy whether or not that is too strong/fast of a cleaner; causing big chunks to break apart.


IMO: Use a Diesel heavy duty engine oil for awhile until fall comes.


PS: What brand/type of "synthetic" motor oil were you using to 10K km/ 6.2K miles ?
Sorry I meant to say 0W-20
(I got the information from here: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#flushing )

I finished it and threw in some Wallyworld Tech2000 10W-30 and will change it in 1000kms. As for a solvent/cleaner, I'm just going to leave it, I'll let the sludge in the lower half be, I really only need/want her to last another 20k kms.

The synthetic brand I was using was Valvoline. I had bought a boatload it from Walmart back in 2003 or 2004. (It was something like $20 CAD for 5.4L :D ) I always used that Fram Synthetic filter (which supposedly is supposed to last upto 11k kms)