Problem with the A/C? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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bryan1727
07-12-2006, 07:38 AM
I searched but could not find my answer unless I missed it, I'm at work so I don't have all the time in the world to read through everything.

Last night on my ride home I was stopped at a light and as I started going I heard a loud bang. The A/C was on when the bang happened. I was a few minutes from home so I continued home, when I got there I noticed what I believe was water leaking from underneath the car. Soon after I got home I noticed condensation in the air vents and a clicking noise everytime I turned the AC on or off. Any idea?

pyro
07-12-2006, 07:43 AM
hmm, check your a/c condenser?

coupe
07-12-2006, 07:54 AM
Your A/C condensates (sp?), so that where the water is coming from under the car. As far as being in the vents, thats weird. Does your A/C clutch rattle when the A/C is off?

bryan1727
07-12-2006, 08:01 AM
the only noise that comes from the a/c is when I turn it on and off. Its a strange clicking noise. The a/c still works and blows semi cold air, not as cold as before it happened

MagusXIII
07-14-2006, 08:21 PM
Last night on my ride home I was stopped at a light and as I started going I heard a loud bang. The A/C was on when the bang happened. I was a few minutes from home so I continued home, when I got there I noticed what I believe was water leaking from underneath the car. Soon after I got home I noticed condensation in the air vents and a clicking noise everytime I turned the AC on or off. Any idea?
Was it really hot that day? It is possible that the pressure relief valve may have popped open to vent excess refrigerant to the atmosphere. That clicking noise I suspect is your compressor. IIRC, your AC system does not use a traditional clutch but rather a variable venturi compressor. This way, when it is not that hot, rather than cycle a traditional clutch on and off, the compressor venturis get larger thus reducing system pressure until the cooling is needed again and the venturis close down to increase system pressure. Mind you, I am really taking a shot in the dark here so please do not put too much faith in my response. I have had no experience with variable venturi compressors and I am only going by a basic understanding of their operation. But is it possible that the clicking sound you hear is the system trying to build up pressure before the compressor is fully engaged.

The first thing I would do is get out your trusty Haynes manual or other service manual and look up the proper operating pressures for both the low side and high side. Then find a buddy (or rent if possible) with a manifold gauge set that is for use in r134a systems. Get your pressure readings. My gut feeling tells me that you probably lost some refrigerant when that pressure relief valve (what believe to be the cause of the bang based on your description) and that your system is low, hence the reduced cooling effect. If you are low, just get a simple r134a recharge kit and add a little bit at a time until you are within proper operating pressures.

PS: I feel very bad for those needing to buy r134a these days. Isnt a 30lb cylinder close to 200-250 dollars US? I bought a 30lb cylinder 4 years ago at BJ's Wholesale club for 80 dollars and autozone was selling them for 100 dollars.

white97gt
07-23-2006, 09:36 PM
question about the a/c. does any one knows where is the low pressure valve on a 97 GT 2.4? I 'm trying to recharge my wife's car a/c and I just can't find it?

MagusXIII
07-27-2006, 03:07 PM
question about the a/c. does any one knows where is the low pressure valve on a 97 GT 2.4? I 'm trying to recharge my wife's car a/c and I just can't find it?
My friend and his fiancee just got back from vacation today and I will try to ask her as she has a 98 GT 2.4.

However, have you tried following the inlet line from the compressor back towards the accumulator? The low side port is between the compressor and the accumulator. GM does seem to like to hide some of the ports as my high side port on my Cav is hidden below the plastic radiator guard thingy just above the radiator. If you do not know which of the 2 lines is the low pressure line out of the compressor, it will always be the bigger diameter of the two.

lone_wolf025
07-27-2006, 07:00 PM
PS: I feel very bad for those needing to buy r134a these days. Isnt a 30lb cylinder close to 200-250 dollars US? I bought a 30lb cylinder 4 years ago at BJ's Wholesale club for 80 dollars and autozone was selling them for 100 dollars.

You sure you're not thinking of R-12? That seems awfully excessive.

MagusXIII
07-27-2006, 07:19 PM
You sure you're not thinking of R-12? That seems awfully excessive.
Positive. I could have sworn I saw it for that cost. To jog my memory, I looked up the cost of a cylinder online.

http://autorefrigerants.com/traditionalrefrig.htm

Not sure what places like AutoZone charge but I bet it is pretty close. I suspect they are just jacking up the price so that it discourages the backyard mechanic from doing a simple recharge or even servicing the system themselves.

MagusXIII
07-27-2006, 07:24 PM
question about the a/c. does any one knows where is the low pressure valve on a 97 GT 2.4? I 'm trying to recharge my wife's car a/c and I just can't find it?
I got a hold of my friend. He did not provide a photo because...the low pressure port is on the bottom of the compressor. To access it, you must do it from underneath the car. Best to use wheel ramps rather than a jackstand.

lone_wolf025
07-27-2006, 07:25 PM
Wow! When did 134a get so expensive?

Though I think if they really want to keep the backyard guys from doing it they should just require an ecco certification to buy/handle the stuff like they did with R-12.

bryan1727
07-27-2006, 07:27 PM
Was it really hot that day? It is possible that the pressure relief valve may have popped open to vent excess refrigerant to the atmosphere. That clicking noise I suspect is your compressor. IIRC, your AC system does not use a traditional clutch but rather a variable venturi compressor. This way, when it is not that hot, rather than cycle a traditional clutch on and off, the compressor venturis get larger thus reducing system pressure until the cooling is needed again and the venturis close down to increase system pressure. Mind you, I am really taking a shot in the dark here so please do not put too much faith in my response. I have had no experience with variable venturi compressors and I am only going by a basic understanding of their operation. But is it possible that the clicking sound you hear is the system trying to build up pressure before the compressor is fully engaged.

The first thing I would do is get out your trusty Haynes manual or other service manual and look up the proper operating pressures for both the low side and high side. Then find a buddy (or rent if possible) with a manifold gauge set that is for use in r134a systems. Get your pressure readings. My gut feeling tells me that you probably lost some refrigerant when that pressure relief valve (what believe to be the cause of the bang based on your description) and that your system is low, hence the reduced cooling effect. If you are low, just get a simple r134a recharge kit and add a little bit at a time until you are within proper operating pressures.

PS: I feel very bad for those needing to buy r134a these days. Isnt a 30lb cylinder close to 200-250 dollars US? I bought a 30lb cylinder 4 years ago at BJ's Wholesale club for 80 dollars and autozone was selling them for 100 dollars.
you were dead on, took it to the dealer because my car is still under warrenty and was told that my pressure relief valve popped open and some hose exploded. I forget exactly what it was but I do remember them telling me the pressure relief valve popped open

white97gt
07-27-2006, 07:31 PM
r-134 you can can get it anywhere now a days. you can get those 1 lb bottles from walmart with the pistol grip attachment to it to do it yourself. you can even get the oil to lubricate the compressor. as far as the low pressure line I had seen it at one time when I got the radiator changed but now I can't seem to find it.

lone_wolf025
07-27-2006, 07:47 PM
Isn't it buried near the firewall or am I thinking of the high side?

MagusXIII
07-27-2006, 08:06 PM
as far as the low pressure line I had seen it at one time when I got the radiator changed but now I can't seem to find it.
Jose, as I posted above, it is pretty well hidden. You are best getting your car up on ramps and charging it from the bottom. My friend's fiancee has a 1998 2.4L GT and he looked for me tonight. I told him a member on a Grand Am forum needed AC help.

MagusXIII
07-27-2006, 08:16 PM
Wow! When did 134a get so expensive?

Though I think if they really want to keep the backyard guys from doing it they should just require an ecco certification to buy/handle the stuff like they did with R-12.
That eco certification, aka the EPA's Section 609 certification, can be obtained rather easily by anybody. Simply having Sec 609 will allow you to buy R12 freely. In fact, there is a site out there that allows you to obtain your 609 certification online.

http://www.epatest.com/e_home.html

white97gt
07-28-2006, 09:03 PM
last time I have seen it it was right underneath the car. I had some major work done on my car and now i can't find the damn thing. I look for it again. thanks for the help.

white97gt
07-29-2006, 08:49 AM
well finally got the a/c fixed this morning. that thing is blowing cold air again. the only problem i have is that I have to replace the heater core cover. I broke it taking it off when I replaced the heater core last year and now it leaks cold water on the passenger side. thanks for the help fellows. only if i could fix my tranny in my 97 taurus sho now

Korben
02-05-2008, 10:51 AM
;crap So, my cold air with the AC isn't coming out. The air is still blowing and it's semi cool/lukewarm. Should I just recharge the 134A coolant or what? And anyone got the steps on how-to?

Thanks

SSRacer
02-05-2008, 11:28 AM
It's winter...don't worry about it...lol

Probably just needs a recharge. Had mine done this past summer for the first time. Had them use the dye as well and there were no leaks. The guy at the shop told me to run the AC a few times during the winter too keep all the seals lubed because what can happen is they can shrink in the winter allowing the gas to escape, then when summer comes along, they expand again and there is no leak.

Korben
02-05-2008, 03:18 PM
It's winter...don't worry about it...lol

Probably just needs a recharge. Had mine done this past summer for the first time. Had them use the dye as well and there were no leaks. The guy at the shop told me to run the AC a few times during the winter too keep all the seals lubed because what can happen is they can shrink in the winter allowing the gas to escape, then when summer comes along, they expand again and there is no leak.

It was 82 degrees outside yesterday......I'm not laughing.

timberwoof
03-18-2008, 11:33 AM
Well I think my compressor finally took a dump.

I was driving home from the beach, and turned the AC on. Well there was an immediate loss of power (big Loss), and a loud rattling from the very front of the car. I'm guess that it's from the AC Clutch. Being near the coast the humidity is horrible and we use the AC all the time (for my son's sake more than ours)

I will try to post a vid of what the car is doing here sometime this week so you guys can get a better perspective. Now granted the AC still blows cold, but the rattling only happens when its turned on. Oh yeah and don't forget the loss of power. <<Guess that is from the AC clutch as well dragging the motor down.

Opinions?