View Full Version : One for the experts
07-14-2006, 05:43 PM
Yesterday my car started, but then died within 2 seconds. It started and ran on the next attempt and then ran all the way to the park. We played tennis for a couple hours and came back to the car. It started, then died in 2 seconds for the first two attempts. All following attempts, the starter would roll over, but the car would not start. I got it towed home.
At the house, we did spark tests on all 6 lines and they all sparked fine. It has new plugs all the way around (3 months old). We pulled plug 2.. wouldnt start. we pulled plug 4 and it fired right up. We put plug 2 back in and it fired back up again. put plug 4 back in and it fired back up and ran smoothly. I tried it off and on about 5 more times then, and tried it about 5 more times randomly throughout the day.
I came out at 8AM and it turned on fine. I had to go somewhere at 4PM and it fired up fine.. but i had a feeling that i should probably turn it off and try again to make sure. The car wouldn't start the second time.
I pulled plugs 2/4 again.. both reeked of fuel. i tried starting it with the 2 plugs out and it was a no go. I put them back in (5 minutes later) and it started up for 3 seconds then died and wouldn't start up again.
Im pretty sure that it's flooding itself, but not sure why or what/how to test. Any ideas, pointers, suggestions? Feel free to throw any ideas out and i'll do my best to check them. Thanks everyone.
07-14-2006, 05:48 PM
Possibly the IAC Sensor or maybe the Passlock .
07-14-2006, 06:08 PM
when it wont start, we still get spark and fuel, so this would rule out the passlock right? I assume that passlock would at least cut fuel off (though i am not positive).
IAC - Does anyone have a way to test this? Also, when the car does start (and stays running) it runs perfectly fine.. RPMs are normal and there is no stuttering.
Over the last few days i did notice that there was slightly less power than usual. Also, a couple nights when i went to leave work i had to start the car twice. I didn't really take notice at the times that it happened though because it ran fine after i fired it back up.
Anyone know of any other sensors that either wouldn't provide enough air or would send too much fuel?
07-14-2006, 06:26 PM
Just wanted to add that no codes are being thrown.
07-14-2006, 06:43 PM
07-14-2006, 07:02 PM
yea, TPS, MAF and O2 are the sensors i have on my list... though I am not sure how to test any of them.
Anyone have any ways of testing these sensors or know if they would cause this kind of effect on the car starting?
07-14-2006, 09:05 PM
When you say it starts and dies, does it start up and idle for a second or does it imediately stall, if it stalls, probably could be your fuel filter, had the same problem on a Yukon when the fuel filter got messed up after running the tank dry, most of the time it would fire and stall right out, and once in a while it would start up fine... hope it helps
07-14-2006, 11:38 PM
it would start and then stall out.
90% of the time(when it's broken) it will crank over, but will not fire up. When pulling the plugs they reek of fuel, so it definitely has gas. It really seems like it is getting flooded, but I'm not sure what would cause that.
I will change the fuel fiter just to be safe tho, thanks.
Any other ideas?
07-15-2006, 06:57 AM
I tried it again this morning and had no luck. it would crank over but not fire up. i did notice that i didn't hear the fuel pump though.. so I left the key in the ON position and pressed the bleeder valve on the fuel rail. No fuel came out at all so there wasn't any pressure. I did the 10 minute passlock reset and the car fired up. Sorry for dismissing this earlier, though i figured that since i could smell fuel on the spark plugs that they had fuel.. guess i was wrong. This also explains why it would start for 2-3 seconds then sputter and stall... it just burnt the last bit of fuel in the lines until it ran out.
I've done lots of searching and it looks like i can either, live with it and do the reset often.. or i can replace the ignition cylinder. Is this correct or could it be something else?
OH, and the security light never blinked. It would be on whenever i turned the key to the ON position, however so was the batt, service soon, and oil pressure(i think) lights... basically the common pre-start lights. But the security never flashed. The one odd thing that it DID do was that it would be on up until i tried to turn the car over and then it would be off until i turned the car off.
07-15-2006, 11:32 AM
i hate passlock!
07-16-2006, 10:49 AM
with my last post, does everyone really think it is passlock? It matches the symptoms except for the part about the security light not blinking.
I don't want to spend the $115 on the ignition cylinder if i don't have to. Is everyone fairly certain?
Also, it has been running fine since my last post.
07-17-2006, 10:55 PM
That's definitely a passlock problem.
When passlock has a problem it'll still run the fuel pump but it won't trigger the injectors. The fuel smell on the plugs is likely just leftovers. Try getting professional injection flush and replacing the passlock sensor.
07-18-2006, 07:39 AM
There's an easier fix. You can find the correct resistance for your key. Cut the two wires going in to the ignition cylinder. Wire a resistor in line with these two wires that matches the resistance in the key. And your set.
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