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runasoft
08-11-2006, 12:25 AM
I have a bit of a concern and a little bit of a long story so please be patient with this post and give me your input on all of this.

My car is a 2004 Grand AM SE 3400 3.4L V6 (AUTO). I bought this car with 36,000 miles on it about 5 months ago. Over the course of those 5 months I have done a few things to the car. I got a dual flowmaster 80 with 2.5" Piping, 3" CAI, PRO-M MAF, Gold-Line lowering springs and Kyowa 18" Racing rims with Falken Low Profiles.

Now, before you go on flaming me for what I'm about to say, please just keep reading so you can understand my concern.

Ever since I got the car, I have not been able to peel-out. The car had the stock 15's with some pretty bald tires up front. I could get a small chirp putting it in first and power braking but never more than a second or so.. I tried pulling the e-Brake, power braking and still, it would chirp and then just bog out and start rolling and stop spinning the tires. Is this normal even with the mods I have?

Now, I put on the Kyowa 18's and expected some gains only because each wheel with tires weigh 6 pounds less than the stockers. Nope, I can't even get a chirp out of them now!

I had noticed some pretty bad shake when taking off and accelerating so I figured brakes were sticking and warped roters. I took the front wheels off and inspected the rotors and sure enough, they were rusted on and in horrible condition. The inner brake pads were worn down to hardly anything and the rotors had deep gouges froms this. I replaced the rotors with new ones and put on new brake pads, bled the brakes and topped off the reservoir. I then test drove the car and it's driving horribly. The brakes are sticking almost all the time and under hard acceleration from a stop, the car doesn't want to move. After a little while, the brakes seem to free up but I swear I can feel them holding the car back.

The way I know the brakes are sticking is this. Sometimes I'll get in the car and put the car in reverse and let go of the brake and it won't move under idle, I'll have to give it some gas for it to move. Other times, I'll put it in reverse and let go of the brake and the car will just move freely under idle. Yes, this is on the same surface since I notice it everytime I leave work and I park in the same spot everyday.

Anyhow, ever since I bought the car, I had a noticed a loud crunching sound coming from the driver side caliper when I pressed on the brake pedal. Since changing the brake pads and rotors tho the crunching stopped completely but the brakes stick now...

So I guess my question to you is.. "Should my car be able to freely peel out with my mods and tires/rims that weigh 6 pounds less than stock?"

I'm going to change out the plugs again because I think that my car isn't responing to them properly. This weekend I will be changing out the calipers as well because this is just not acceptable.

- Rudy

Mike Jung
08-11-2006, 05:02 AM
How about changing the brake calipers ?

Or at least take them apart.
Cleaning them up & re-lube them, so they slide properly; so they don't stick anymore.

coupe
08-11-2006, 05:57 AM
First thing i would do is what mike said. Clean up the calipers and greese them real good.

For the peeling out. You should be able to spin them no problem for a decent amount of time. I dont know much about the Falcon tires, are they real sticky type tires? Could you peel out before the pro-M maf? I would remove that junk anyway and get DHP PCM.

Sprucegagt
08-11-2006, 06:44 AM
How about changing the brake calipers ?

Or at least take them apart.
Cleaning them up & re-lube them, so they slide properly; so they don't stick anymore.

Agreed.

For the other problem. You should get rid of the Pro-M MAF and put the stock MAF back in. A DHP PCM would help out much more. How are the maintenance items? Air filter clean? Good oil and filter? New fuel filter? I don't think the plugs are your problem at all.

Finally I would reset the PCM. There is a fuse labelled "PCM BATT" in your underhood fuse block. Pull that fuse with the ignition off. Leave it out for at least 30 minutes. After that reinstall the fuse. Drive the car normally for a few days then test your peel out problem.

runasoft
08-11-2006, 09:43 AM
thanx for all the reply's..

I'm going to replace the calipers this weekend because the calipers i have now I sort of ruined. When I changed the rotors, the pistons on the calipers wouldn't retract so I couldn't take them off so I had to forcefully pry them off and I put a notch in each caliper piston... That right there told me I had some type of sticking problem if niether caliper is retracting all the way...

Anyhow, as for the MAF LOL I already sold my stock MAF LOL and I paid 150 for this MAF so... I'll do everything you guys said.. I'll even buy another stock MAF...

As for the spark plugs, I am going to change them out because it being my first time changing spark plugs, I had left them at thier factory gap and then I broke 2 spark plugs when putting them in so I bought 1 new one and used an old one.. After I drove it around, I got an "SES" light... So I gapped them at 50 and the car seemed fine but after a couple of days I noticed it would stutter real bad when I would slowly accel.. So again, I regapped the plugs to 60 and the stutter went away except for when I feel the brakes sticking.

I'm not to sure about the tires as far as stickiness goes. I have gotten them to chirp when the brakes don't feel like thier sticking but it's still not good enough for me.

I just really hope it's not an engine problem. It runs strong and doesn't have a knock except for the usual ticking when it's cold but that goes away after about 30 sec.

I change the oil regularly and actually change more often than 3000 only because i drive the car pretty hard. I'm going to switch to Mobile 1 Full Synthetic my next change. I use K&n Oil filters so I know that's not my problem either. I may need to get some new wires... I'll also change my fuel filter and reset the PCM.

Also, when I regapped the spark plugs the 2nd time, I noticed that the ends were all black like burnt almost.. Is this not good? LOL Did I pretty much fry the plugs or is this normal for a couple of days at a gap of 50?

When it comes to getting a different PCM, I noticed that on PFYC.com you have to take the car back to the dealer for them to reset some code but to be a little persistent that they don't reflash the PCM.. What is this all about and what would I say LOL I know the reason for not reflashing of course but wouldn't they be a little suspicious that your saying not to reflash the PCM.

Thanx,
Rudy

Sprucegagt
08-11-2006, 11:49 AM
The plugs being burnt may be from your Pro-M MAF. I would run a stock gap of 0.060. There is no reason to shorten the gap. The DIS system has plenty of power for a 0.060 gap on a stock engine.

Also you will not hear the valves knock from detonation. The knock sensor will detect it long before your ears will and tell the PCM to pull timing. If you actually do hear your valves knock from detonation then you have a serious problem.

The DHP PCM will need a CASE learn procedure done. It really does need to be done so the PCM can provide proper low rpm timing. This can be done without reflashing the PCM. Let the dealer know that you already changed the PCM and you need a CASE learn but to not reflash the PCM. They shouldn't have a problem doing that.

coupe
08-11-2006, 01:08 PM
I know the reason for not reflashing of course but wouldn't they be a little suspicious that your saying not to reflash the PCM.

Thanx,
Rudy

Its not like its illegal man. Straight up tell them you have an aftermarket retune and DO NOT reflash the PCM.

The DHP PCM will need a CASE learn procedure done. It really does need to be done so the PCM can provide proper low rpm timing. This can be done without reflashing the PCM. Let the dealer know that you already changed the PCM and you need a CASE learn but to not reflash the PCM. They shouldn't have a problem doing that.


You can also have a shop do it that has a techII, it dosent have to be the dealer. I personaly wouldnt go to a dealer.

runasoft
08-11-2006, 02:20 PM
Also you will not hear the valves knock from detonation. The knock sensor will detect it long before your ears will and tell the PCM to pull timing. If you actually do hear your valves knock from detonation then you have a serious problem.


when i start the car and it's been sitting and is completely cold I hear a slight ticking sound. I say ticking because it's very light and you actually have to listen to hear it, it goes away after I lightly rev it up so I'm guessing it's just something that isn't quite yet lubricated.... The car has made this noise since the day I test drove it but it didn't worry me because it went away before I even put it in gear.

As for the PCM, that's the next thing I'll do.. The thing is, I have full warranty on the car and i'm not sure if this will be the icing on the cake if you know what i mean.. Now, I haven't taken it in since I did everything to it so I'm guessing that my warranty is pretty much gone by now... I have a 100 dollar deductible so this is why i didn't take it in for the calipers or anything... I can change the calipers for 70 bucks myself...


A list of my mods are as follows...

Gold-Line 1.75" Lowering Springs
KYOWA 18" Racing Rims w/ Low Profile Tires
TYC Black Headlights
TYC Carbon Fiber Tailights
Full CAI
PRO-M MAF
Dual Exhaust w/ Flowmaster 80 (deleted resonator)

I pretty sure that an exhaust and cai don't void your engine or tranny warranty but i think the springs may void your suspension warranty which transfer over into your brakes stuff.. Let me know if I'm being dumb here.. hehe

- Rudy

Sprucegagt
08-11-2006, 02:33 PM
Suspension and brakes are two completely different systems. Your brake system should not be voided from having lowering springs. If so then I would complain about it to the manager and if that doesn't work go above him/her. Don't even bother trying to explain this to the service rep., they don't care.

The ticking noise on cold start up is common on 3400 and 3100 engines. As long as it goes away once it warms up, I wouldn't worry about it.

If your worried about your warranty with the PCM, then do what Coupe said and just find a service station that has a Tech II.

runasoft
08-11-2006, 02:35 PM
Suspension and brakes are two completely different systems. Your brake system should not be voided from having lowering springs. If so then I would complain about it to the manager and if that doesn't work go above him/her. Don't even bother trying to explain this to the service rep., they don't care.

The ticking noise on cold start up is common on 3400 and 3100 engines. As long as it goes away once it warms up, I wouldn't worry about it.

If your worried about your warranty with the PCM, then do what Coupe said and just find a service station that has a Tech II.

cool.. thanx for the info.. I'll see about finding someone in my town with a TechII LOL It's such a small town I don't think anybody would have that.. May have to drive to the nearest big city... How much do you think it would cost for them to do it? $50.00??

Sprucegagt
08-11-2006, 02:37 PM
Probably depends on there hourly rate. The procedure itself doesn't even take 5 minutes. But they will probably charge and hour labor to do it. That's usually the case with hooking up a Tech II. I personally have never had to do this. Since having Powrtuner I can do it myself.

el nino
08-11-2006, 11:13 PM
i have the same problem, iv never been able to peel out!! a chirp here and there but never peel. could anything else be causing this except the brakes and callipers????

runasoft
08-11-2006, 11:15 PM
Probably depends on there hourly rate. The procedure itself doesn't even take 5 minutes. But they will probably charge and hour labor to do it. That's usually the case with hooking up a Tech II. I personally have never had to do this. Since having Powrtuner I can do it myself.

I have a question about the techII... is that the same as an OBDII ?? I talked to a friend who owns a service shop and he said that that's what they use to clear codes or whatever but is this what he needs to use to clear the code when I install the new PCM?

Thanx,
Rudy

el nino
08-13-2006, 11:16 PM
ok nvm i guess i was just not pulling the e-brake hard enough:D problem solved, impressed a few chicas too.... good thing they dont know jack about cars.

runasoft
08-17-2006, 11:52 PM
well i think I have seemed to have fixed my problem for the most part anyways. I bought a set of calipers from autozone and slapped those in with no problem. Bled them a few times and all was well with the test drive. I couldn't find the fuse for the PCM BATT so I just unplugged the battery and left it off for over an hour. The shifting is super smooth now and I drove it easy for about 40miles before I got on it. Still shifting very smooth even at WOT.

I think I may have a problem with the back brakes sticking just a wee bit on take off but after the initial jump they let loose, this is still something I'm going to have a look at.

As for burning out, I did a pretty nice burnout the other day and went through all 4 gears.. it was hell for my tires but it felt good to finally be able to do something like that. I paid for it of course because I did it standing still and got melted rubber and asphalt all on the inner fender wells and the side of the car which was horrible taking off..

Thanks for the help guys.

- Rudy

eaglesrealm
08-18-2006, 09:58 PM
thanx for all the reply's..

I'm going to replace the calipers this weekend because the calipers i have now I sort of ruined. When I changed the rotors, the pistons on the calipers wouldn't retract so I couldn't take them off so I had to forcefully pry them off and I put a notch in each caliper piston... That right there told me I had some type of sticking problem if niether caliper is retracting all the way...


I know this is not valid anymore, because you already changed your calipers.
However, how did you ever mess up a caliper piston by removing your caliper?
Two slider bolts and off it comes. If it sticks, you can pry carefully between the caliper and the outside diameter of the rotor.