AHHH!! Nitrous doesn't work!

[Dr_Kyle]

okay I was um....testing it on a closed course tonight...and when I hit the switch, NOTHING! My purge switch works fine (they're both wired from the same source so a short isn't the cause).

So I get home and pop the hood... When I hit the switch, it makes a noise like it's filling, but it doesn't spray. The filling noise is also MUCH quieter than the filling-air-rushing-in sound that it normally makes. The line hooked to the FPR jerks and the blue piece it's attached to ices over with a thin frost (I don't know really how to describe that part, I'm a Florida boy :p).

All electrical connections are soldered and to the best of my knowledge they are in the right order. Besides, the solenoids click and stay (no shuddering like a loose connection) until I flip the switch off. The kit worked for the past two days, but now nothing!


Maybe a bad/shot solenoid? This was a used kit so I have no idea how many times it's been used. Plus, it worked just yesterday!

ANY help is appreciated!

[PACE]

TURN ON THE BOTTLE:p

j/k...that is strange. I would disconnect the hose right after the solinoid and then spray and see if the juice will spray out from the solinoid....If it doesn't then you have a fried solinoid...as long as you are able to purge....Are both solinoids connected to the same distrobution block?

[Dr_Kyle]

lol ohhhh the bottle... :D hehe j/k

yeah they're both connected to the same one. How much do you think a new solenoid would run me? $60? $80?

[seeya]

sounds like you may have a bad solenoid. try taking one off of your set up and use only one at a time. the only reason there are two solenoids is for safety incase one does not close.

run your line from the bottle to one solenoid, then hook up your fuel pressure regulator (the blue piece that frosts over) to the other side of the same solenoid. hook your line that runs to the nitrous sprayer (nozzle) to the fpr. do this for both solenoids to figure out which one is not working.

only other thing i can suggest is to get a fluke (or some other meter/tester) and probe the wire connections while activating the nitrous at WOT. You can do this while the car is parked and running by hitting the N2o switch mounted at the throttle.

CAUTION!... Don't do this unless you remove the N20 nozzle or black hose so that you are not spraying notrous into the engine. Point the N2o nozzle away from the intake. You will risk damaging your engine if you don't.


Good luck...

[PACE]

My wet kit only had 1 N2O solinoid......


....They are about $100:(

And you can spray the engine all day as long as its not running :D

[seeya]

Originally posted by ECAP

And you can spray the engine all day as long as its not running :D


Very true...


Sorry... most of NOS's come with two solenoids. Didn't know what kit was being used.

[PACE]

Yeah, Mine was a Nitrous Works Kit....I'm not sure what Dr. Kyle is running.........

Doc,
IF you are running a kit that has 2 N20 Solinoids....just find the broken one and remove it!!! To me a 2 soliniod kit is just a way for the manufacturer to make more $ (or justify their high price)...I ran 1 fuel soli and one N2O Soli and Never once has a problem......If anything they stick CLOSED like yours is now! I would still check all the electrical first though.

[Dr_Kyle]

Originally posted by ECAP
Yeah, Mine was a Nitrous Works Kit....I'm not sure what Dr. Kyle is running.........

Doc,
IF you are running a kit that has 2 N20 Solinoids....just find the broken one and remove it!!! To me a 2 soliniod kit is just a way for the manufacturer to make more $ (or justify their high price)...I ran 1 fuel soli and one N2O Soli and Never once has a problem......If anything they stick CLOSED like yours is now! I would still check all the electrical first though.

Yeah that's what I was thinking. But I'm afraid that if they can stick closed, they can stick open too. :eek: I am pretty sure I know which one it is too. The blue piece that connects to the FPR still jerks when I hit the switch. It is connected between the two solenoids, so that means that it has to be the last one right? Since the first one clearly is doing the job, this is my best guess. Unfortunately, I won't be able to play with it until next week! Grrr!

Thanks for the replies though, I appreciate it. :thumbs:

[Quick_GT]

Are you using a dry or wet nitrous system? Wet systems use 1 nitrous solenoid and 1 fuel solenoid. If you are using a wet kit and the nitrous solenoid does not work and you activate it the car will almost die (loose all power), because you are injecting extra fuel from the fuel solenoid but no nitrous. If you have a dry kit you may have a bad nitrous solenoid. Are you using a Hobbs pressure switch in the fuel line that shuts off at low fuel pressure? Are you using a full throttle switch, if so it may need to be adjusted. My brother was using a nitrous system without the full throttle activation switch and hit the button before the throttle was fully open, heard a loud bang! It looked like a M80 went off in the air filter box, carnage everywhere.

I have had solenoids go bad and also stick open, sometimes they stick open if debris is in the line or even in the bottle. It's not good when you fill up the air filter plenum with nitrous from a sticking nos solenoid. Usually activating the system a few times closes it. If the solenoids are old it wouldn't hurt to replace them, it's not worth the problems they can cause. Summit and Jeg's sells the Nos brand solenoids Fuel $63 and nitrous $78.

[Dr_Kyle]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that! hehe... BAD KYLE! :nono:

Yeah it is a DRY kit.

[Dr_Kyle]

okay, my theory was correct. It was the final solenoid in the series. I went ahead and put my purge solenoid in place of the fried one. The kit works fine now, I just don't have a purge kit :( So until I get a new solenoid, I wll have no intimidation button... lol

Thanks for the help guys!

[GTPguy99]

hey Kyle look into a rebuild kit for the solenoid should be cheaper and its easy to do :)

[Dr_Kyle]

is it something I can do myself? I can get a new one of these on Ebay for about $40... would the rebuild be cheaper?

[GTPguy99]

i dont know the price :( contact NOS i took one of mine apart its real easy theres a spring and like 2 other parts in there reallly easy :)

[Dr_Kyle]

Okay, I found a rebuild kit for about $38. In case anyone else is interested, here is a link to it on summitracing.com: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=21157