What pulley is this??? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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mzrmatt
12-26-2006, 10:51 PM
pulley busted in half, which one is it???

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/angelluv98/100_3472.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/angelluv98/100_3470.jpg

cavingman
12-26-2006, 10:52 PM
tensioner
makes the belt stay tight against the others

LoboMan7409
12-26-2006, 10:57 PM
yep, not too hard to replace luckly I just had to do mine. Picked a new one up from auto zone for 14 bucks and took me about 15 min to replace

mzrmatt
12-26-2006, 11:02 PM
thanks. :D

gonna pick one up in the morning.

mzrmatt
12-26-2006, 11:11 PM
did you buy just the pulley or the whole tensioner arm assembly???

LoboMan7409
12-26-2006, 11:33 PM
I just bought the pulley, there is just a bolt holding it to the tensioner itself. Or you can do the whole thing for 27 bucks I think it was. What you are going to want to do it take off the whole thing, take the old pulley off, put the new one on, then put the assembly back on. But be careful because there is a little notch thing that needs to line up with the pulley.

stangdude
12-27-2006, 08:36 AM
Depending on your funds (I know they can be tight this time of year) you may be better off spending the extra $10 on the whole tensioner. It's just a coil of spring steel inside there that will wear out eventually. Personally, I'd rather take it apart once. Plus, when it does go out, it comes with a new pulley when you eventually replace it, so you'd be wasting your money if it decides to go out in another 10k miles. busting that pulley wasn't all that easy on that spring.

mzrmatt
12-27-2006, 10:19 AM
yeah i just went ahead and bought the whole assembly, gonna fix it after I get off work.

dna_dan
01-03-2007, 03:03 PM
Were you able to get this on your car? I bought the whole assembly from Autozone and the arm on the tensioner was not curved like the OEM one. As a result, when I placed it on the car I couldnt get my socket driver into the hole to relieve the tension in order to put the belt on. It's a slight variation in the design, but in my case, I couldn't use it at all and I had to take it back.

I don't know about you guys, but my local Autozone doesn't really carry jack for our cars. I have been going to Winchester auto, which I think is the same as Napa auto stores. Every thing I buy from them is awesome and they know their parts!

mzrmatt
01-03-2007, 03:21 PM
Were you able to get this on your car? I bought the whole assembly from Autozone and the arm on the tensioner was not curved like the OEM one. As a result, when I placed it on the car I couldnt get my socket driver into the hole to relieve the tension in order to put the belt on. It's a slight variation in the design, but in my case, I couldn't use it at all and I had to take it back.

I don't know about you guys, but my local Autozone doesn't really carry jack for our cars. I have been going to Winchester auto, which I think is the same as Napa auto stores. Every thing I buy from them is awesome and they know their parts!

I ran into the same problem when I installed mine. The socket would not fit. I rented a serpentine belt tool from Advanced Auto, basically a handle with 3/8" drive on the end, it work perfectly.

dna_dan
01-03-2007, 03:31 PM
That sucks. Damn cheap copycat taiwanese parts!

Sorry I couldn't save you a trip.

BHermis
02-13-2007, 05:54 PM
How difficult is it to replace the tensioner assembly? Do you just take off and then bolt on?

dna_dan
02-13-2007, 06:38 PM
How difficult is it to replace the tensioner assembly? Do you just take off and then bolt on?

First you have to take off the belt.

I use a 3/8" socket driver to relieve the tension, then slip off the belt.

The tensioner assmebly is just bolt off and on like you mentioned, with a single bolt. Just make sure it's in the same orientation at the old one.

Put the belt back on and you're good to go.

BHermis
02-13-2007, 07:35 PM
Dang, oh well I dropped it off at the mechanic today and they will work on it tomorrow. I should have just drove it back home and did it myself. I drove about 4 miles with the brand new belt rubbing against the tensioner(not the pully). Should i go ahead and throw a new belt on along with a new tensioner?

dna_dan
02-13-2007, 09:49 PM
Dang, oh well I dropped it off at the mechanic today and they will work on it tomorrow. I should have just drove it back home and did it myself. I drove about 4 miles with the brand new belt rubbing against the tensioner(not the pully). Should i go ahead and throw a new belt on along with a new tensioner?

Change the belt if it needs it. I don't remember what the rated # of miles as for the belt, but if it has 70% of more of the expected life gone, I'd change it.

Also depends on what they charge you to replace it.

BHermis
02-14-2007, 05:20 PM
Ok, well the shop called and they fixed a problem I was having with the MAP and now i can either pick it up and drive like 5 miles back to my house and change it or let them do it for 180. It is currently rubbing against the tensioner very slightly. Do I risk it and drive it home and do it or do I let them change it? I do feel confindent in my ability to change the tensioner i am just afraid a couple more miles and i could A. damage the braket that holds the tensioner, B. break the new belt, C. damage another accesory. It is only rubbing very slightly but enough to smell burning rubber a little.

dna_dan
02-14-2007, 09:52 PM
Ok, well the shop called and they fixed a problem I was having with the MAP and now i can either pick it up and drive like 5 miles back to my house and change it or let them do it for 180. It is currently rubbing against the tensioner very slightly. Do I risk it and drive it home and do it or do I let them change it? I do feel confindent in my ability to change the tensioner i am just afraid a couple more miles and i could A. damage the braket that holds the tensioner, B. break the new belt, C. damage another accesory. It is only rubbing very slightly but enough to smell burning rubber a little.

For one, if your tensioner is dammaged, I wouldn't be putting a new belt on it because it's just going to dammage the belt. Secondly, I can't imagine why a new belt would smell like it's burning unless it was installed improperly, or the state of the tensioner is wearing down the belt. Thirdly, at $180 to change the tensioner and the belt, you're better off just calling a tow truck for about half that price to get it to your house 5 miles away, then doing the work yourself.

If you aren't mechanically inclined, I wouldn't recommend you do the work yourself.

Pitter98
02-15-2007, 11:27 AM
I would say just make the 5 mile drive back and not worry about it. Worst case you shred the belt and have to buy a new one - in 5 miles it's not gonna do any damage. It's still gonna cost you less then half to buy the belt and tensioner than it would to have them do it.

BHermis
02-15-2007, 06:22 PM
Update: Drove it back my self and replaced it. Everything was fine... but now my fuel feed line is leaking where it connects to the fuel rail. Any quick fixes possible or do i have to take the UIM off again and unbolt the line and change the oring?

dna_dan
02-16-2007, 12:03 PM
Update: Drove it back my self and replaced it. Everything was fine... but now my fuel feed line is leaking where it connects to the fuel rail. Any quick fixes possible or do i have to take the UIM off again and unbolt the line and change the oring?

Definitely sounds like the O-ring. Did the shop have your UIM off? Perhaps they removed the fuel line in something they did and F-ed it up? I'd take it back to the garage that worked on your car, because those things don't just go bad unless someone cracks open the fuel line.

BHermis
02-16-2007, 02:33 PM
I am not sure if they messed with the fuel rail. I know they did take the UIM off to get to a wiring harness. I did take off the fuel rail when i did the LIM but it did not leak for the little amount of time I drove it, and then it started leaking after I got it back. It is possible they took it off to get to the wires... I think I might give them a call.