lim repair part questions [Archive] - Forum


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03-28-2007, 08:48 AM
lims gone out on the car. ive gotten all the gaskets, a new belt, all my oil and fluid. but ive been reading and see that i may need orings for the fuel rail and injectors if i remove the injectors from the lim. can you guys verify what o rings i need or should have just in case. btw the new felpro permadry plus lim gasket is the metal gasket with the rubber seals i had a hell of a time figuring out which one was this new design i picked it up at advance auto for anyone else who may be in search. also i still need to pick up a torque wrench and a floor jack any sugestions on where to go to pick one up for cheap and what size torque wrench should i get or does that only matter on what sockets i have to mate up with the wrench im assuming i need a 3/8ths.


03-28-2007, 10:23 AM
make sure its and inch pound wrench and 3/8 would be best. Take my advice, if the injectors look fine sitting in the lim and you are not having missfires, leave them alone. Alot of people who do this for the first time have a hell of a time with the injectors after removing the rail. I did, i couldnt get them to seat right so i could get the return line threaded again. And when i did the harness for them was all screwy so i had to take it apart again. Other than that take your time and you shouldnt have any trouble.

03-28-2007, 01:45 PM
well i went to advance auto and got a 3/8th torque wrench that does in/lbs for 20 bucks its got lifetime warrenty. had to go to the dealership to get my tb gasket cuz no one else had them instock so while i was there i picked up a bunch of o rings got a distributor o ring a coolant one and one for the fuel rail, then the injector o rings so hopefully thats everything i needed my table is filled with parts waiting to go on. when im done ill write up a big part list w/ part #s if i have them cuz that so far has been my biggest problem just trying to figure out everything i needed. ill take pics too if i get the chance.

03-28-2007, 03:48 PM
sounds like you have everything you need. Good luck.

03-28-2007, 06:07 PM
Be very careful when installing the injectors- the o-rings are a tight squeeze and rip/tear easily. (I used a rubber mallet to tap in the rail - that might not be recommended - but I couldn't push the rail in by hand)

03-28-2007, 06:58 PM
For the love of pete, use some grease on those injector O-rings before you install them into the manifold. A very light coat of white chassis grease works well.

That and I don't know why everyone disconnects the fuel lines from the fuel rail AT ALL. Those fuel lines are flexible enough. Just remove the bolts holding in the fuel rails, pull up to unseat the injectors, unbolt the line brackets from the side of the head/block, then pull the rail out of the way and use a bungee cord to hold it in place. There's ALOT of room to work with.

The only thing you have to watch out for is the injector O-rings slipping off the injectors and sitting on the LIM. Just look for those immedeatly and reinstall on the injectors.

03-30-2007, 07:37 PM
so far i havent been having good success. the coolant flush kit i bought wouldnt splice into the lines dont know why used the smallets tee in the prestone kit and it didnt work, also found out my 20 dollar torque wrench doesnt go down low enough in in/lbs it only goes down to 120in so im ****ed andhave to go return it and spend 70 on the craftsman that will go low enough should have checked it 1st but ive been trying to watch my money since i dont have the money for these repairs as it is.

end rant hope fully tomarrow will go better.

03-31-2007, 09:09 AM
Get your torque wrench from Harbor Freight... low cost, good tools

03-31-2007, 11:29 AM
good tools...haha thanks i needed a laugh. they are tools, but good tools, umm no. if you buy any tools from there just make sure that the place is close, because it will be costly on gas when u have to go back there numerous times to get a replacement due to a broken tool. if you need a tool right now to get the job done and dont have good cash for quality tools, go to harbor freight or oreillys and AZ have cheaper brand tools like performance tool, made in china. then save up some money and go craftsman or SK, Matco, Mac, etc...

also the harbor freight torque wrenches have been known to be out of calibration from day 1 and they dont click in reverse, which is bad for changing ring gear bolts...but if thats all you can afford then just keep that in mind

i would look at local pawn shops or retool, they have good stuff and alot of it is under warranty from the tool makers with trucks that run around

03-31-2007, 01:23 PM
I should have said, good tools for the cost... Though, I have never had any problems with the tools I have bought from them, (I myself would purchase better quality tools for long term) in a pinch such as the one from the OP, I'd go there.

03-31-2007, 05:34 PM
I'll vouch for Harbor Freight torque wrenches being out of spec right from the box.

The one I bought was cranked up to 35 lb/ft when I took it out of the sealed package. I've broken valve cover bolts with that thing when it was set to 6 ft/lbs.

Go buy a Craftsman torque wrench. 5 - 75 ft/lbs in 3/8" drive. They cost about $80 but you won't have any problems with it.

04-01-2007, 03:35 AM
If this is your first time tackling the job, do yourself a favor and leave the fuel rail on the LIM and remove it all as an assembly. Problems with the fuel rail extended a job that could of been done in 2 days into a job that took a week and a heck load of troubles.

Just replace the throttle body gasket, egr gaskets, and the upper and lower intake manifold gasket. Also while you have everything apart, it's good to spend $10 and buy a new thermostat with a new tstat gasket.

Also the pushrod order is very important. Make sure you organize the pushrods exactly how they were removed and reinstall them exactly that way.

Organize every bolt you remove and label all wires, and make sure when reassembling that you torque to spec and tighten all bolts!! I accidently didn't tighten the bolt that holds the heater pipe into the t-stat when I did it and once my temp got high enough and the tstat opened i basically wasted a whole jug of coolant and had to buy more, smoke all over and smelled real bad.

Really the fuel rail gave me the most trouble out of everything, it was almost the only problem I had. Follow the walkthrough on here minus the step to remove the fuel rail and I bet you tackle this in 2 days flat and have no trouble.

And as for flushing the coolant, all I did was drain all the coolant from the drainc0ck under the radiator. Closed it, filled the resevoir with warm water and circulated it through the system, then drained again. I repeated this once more and my coolant was pretty well flushed, just do it until clear water starts coming out of the drainc0ck.

04-01-2007, 11:58 AM
well what i would do is either borrow a good digital camera or buy one and return it later, and take alot of high res pics before u start, while disassembling and during reassembly, itll save alot of time