Stock bin vs 1.5

[puckyou]

Should I start with the editable stock bin for my vin or the 1.5 bin for my vin?

[SpyhunteR]

you should be able to edit both of them.

[lvemy3100]

IMHO...you are much better off starting from a full stock file..

if you have a diff MAF sensor than stock or are using diff injectors you will want to make the basic adjustments for those parts to the stock bin before attemting to tune.... you can find info on how to make those changes via the gmv6pcm.com forums...

[Sprucegagt]

Should I start with the editable stock bin for my vin or the 1.5 bin for my vin?

You have more reading to do young padawan.

[puckyou]

You have more reading to do young padawan.

I know, alot of reading still to do.....

Just wondering though with with file though I should start? I have gotten the stock bin but still waiting on the 1.5 bin.

MP racing states, stock bin, so I'll start with that.....

[Sprucegagt]

What you will have to do is take the 1.5 file and convert it back to stock. Then upload that stock file to your PCM. All the other PT scanner functions should work for you then.

Now as for converting the 1.5 file, there is an easy way to do it and it's been explained more than once on the DHP forums. Your reading should uncover how to do it.

[puckyou]

What you will have to do is take the 1.5 file and convert it back to stock. Then upload that stock file to your PCM. All the other PT scanner functions should work for you then.

Now as for converting the 1.5 file, there is an easy way to do it and it's been explained more than once on the DHP forums. Your reading should uncover how to do it.

Do I have to covert the 1.5 bin to stock if I already have a unlocked stock bin to flash to the PCM?

[Sprucegagt]

No. I take it you downloaded the 99 GAGT stock file from the DHP forum.

[lvemy3100]

if its a file emailed to you from DHP then you are fine....

if not then whats your VIN #... I may be able to send you a stock file for your car more than likely...

[puckyou]

if its a file emailed to you from DHP then you are fine....

if not then whats your VIN #... I may be able to send you a stock file for your car more than likely...

Its a file emailed from blemke on DHP.

I pm'ed you my vin#.

[lvemy3100]

I got ya covered...


PM sent back...

[puckyou]

I got ya covered...


PM sent back...

Flashed over and everything works great......now time to start tuning......

Do you have any suggestions on things that I should change right out of the gate?

[SpyhunteR]

Flashed over and everything works great......now time to start tuning......

Do you have any suggestions on things that I should change right out of the gate?

speed limiter delete!





get on a dyno and log your car at WOT to see what your a/f looks like, how much timing the car is giving you, what kind of knock you're seeing, and from that info you start your attack for more power.

[puckyou]

Installed the bin that Mark gave me.

I have yet to do any tuning as I want to change my fuel filter and spark plugs. Right now I am seeing ltft's of -16 at idle, which is really rich. Will this be corrected with proper tuning? At startup, I can smell fuel.

[SpyhunteR]

when you start tuning you'll end up seeing the results you need. well when tuning in the right direction.

definitely start with cleaning up the idle first.

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, minus 16 at idle is too much so you need to fix that. Idle is usually where you start anyway. If you have an AFPR, check your fuel pressure, and if it's high turn it down to maybe 44-46psi at idle. If no AFPR don't worry about it and skip to next step. Dial down the flow rate in the injector table in steps until your LTFT at warm idle is at least within +/- 4. From there you start doing your VE tuning and MAF tuning to smooth out the rest of the fuel. You always start with fuel at idle, then cruise, part throttle, WOT... then tune ignition timing, trans settings etc. There are some fuel injector cut offs that you'll want to turn off in some of the traction control and speed gov tables. Again, all this stuff is in the tuning guide and the forum if you'll take some time to read it. ;) No one said it's a fast process.

[Sprucegagt]

Yeah, minus 16 at idle is too much so you need to fix that. Idle is usually where you start anyway. If you have an AFPR, check your fuel pressure, and if it's high turn it down to maybe 44-46psi at idle. If no AFPR don't worry about it and skip to next step. Dial down the flow rate in the injector table in steps until your LTFT at warm idle is at least within +/- 4. From there you start doing your VE tuning and MAF tuning to smooth out the rest of the fuel. You always start with fuel at idle, then cruise, part throttle, WOT... then tune ignition timing, trans settings etc. There are some fuel injector cut offs that you'll want to turn off in some of the traction control and speed gov tables. Again, all this stuff is in the tuning guide and the forum if you'll take some time to read it. ;) No one said it's a fast process.

Why do you still promote this outdated way of tuning? You set the injector flow rate based on the injectors your using. If there stock, you leave it stock. If there larger you take your stock injector flow rate and divide it by the new value. Convert that number into a percentage and use that number to multiply the stock table with PT. The -16 LTFT values you attack in VE and MAF tuning. Everything else I agree with.

[AaronGTR]

Why do you still promote this outdated way of tuning? You set the injector flow rate based on the injectors your using. If there stock, you leave it stock. If there larger you take your stock injector flow rate and divide it by the new value. Convert that number into a percentage and use that number to multiply the stock table with PT. The -16 LTFT values you attack in VE and MAF tuning. Everything else I agree with.


Because thats what it says to do in the tuning guide and it works for me. Again, if it's wrong maybe they should change it?

Why do you continue to give wrong info? You can't get an accurate injector flow rate with the method you described. It didn't work for me. The 42lb injectors where to large of a percentage increase over stock so the math didn't work because it gave a negative percentage which you can't multiple by (duh). Not to mention the different spray characteristics and how the injector reacts to short vs long opening. You can't get a solid starting number that way. You have to just start off reducing by 30% for example and keep lowering it until you get close. That's how I was told to do it on the DHP forum, I did it, it worked... period.

Not to mention the fact that if you can't get the fuel close enough to start with you might not even be able to keep the car running in SD mode in order to tune the VE table. That was the problem I ran into and I still have yet to do a VE tune because last year I couldn't even keep the car running, and I just put insurance back on it yesterday. I have the LTFT close at idle now though, and according to the last of what I read on the forum I may have to just make some preliminary changes to the VE table before even doing a VE tune in order to keep it running because of the nature of the mods I have. The stock VE table is just too far off. I guess I'll find out.

[puckyou]

The original tuning guide has been outdated for over a year. Everyone on the DHP boards knows this. Instead, the current accepted guide is JerryH's guide. Get access to it.



22.5 / 42.5 = 0.529 = 52.9 %

Where do you see a negative number anywhere?



Stock VE can be way off if he is using a non-stock cam. If not, then the stock VE table will be close enough to keep it running while tuning.

kids, kids, no need to argue.

Right now I have stock injectors, SC, and a stock cam. After alot of reading on gmv6pcm, I see that, stock injectors, stock IFR. But I could see where he is coming from in decreasing the IFR alittle to bring the LTFT of my level down some before the VE and MAF tuning.

I will start with the tuning outlined in the tuner guide first to see how it affects my LTFT first, then if I don't see a change I will bump down the IFR some %.

[Sprucegagt]

Agreed. I'll drop the arguement and my previous post.

[puckyou]

I was looking at my IFR for my bin and noticed that the numbers are 4.10 flat across the board from kPa 0 to kPa 100?

[Sprucegagt]

That's normal. The GA IFR table does not vary like the GP one does.

[puckyou]

That's normal. The GA IFR table does not vary like the GP one does.

Thanks....

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, the GA has the same number in the IFR table. My understanding from what I've read on the DHP forum is that even different years of the GTP's some had scaled IFR tables and some where just one number like ours. The important thing is that which ever way it is, each cars VE table is tuned to account for it. So you could take the time to do all the calculations and scale your table, but since you have to do a VE tune and change the VE table anyway, you might as well save the trouble and just use one number. It works just as well. :)

Thats another reason I think it's important to get a good base number to start with too before VE tuning. I want my VE tuning to be more accounting for changes in the engines volumetric efficiency and less adjusting for incorrect injector scaling to fix fuel issues. I feel this should give a more balanced tune for the wide range of operating conditions since the VE table is the base fuel table the pcm works off of for all the other fuel modifiers. I have no testing to verify this of course... I'm just basing it off what I've read about tuning fuel injection systems. It may not be possible to even test accurately without the kind of budget GM has.

[puckyou]

Disconnected the MAF today to see how the car would run without it. When I put the car in gear, it shifted harder (clunked) as opposed to shifting with the MAF connected? Is this normal?

[AaronGTR]

Yeah, when it goes into SD mode the trans always shifts hard. PCM uses MAF signal for some reason as part of controlling the line pressure. That's one reason we all think it's so stupid that RSM removes the MAF in their SC setup.

[puckyou]

thanks, I was sweating...

[westerndragon]

Why do you still promote this outdated way of tuning? You set the injector flow rate based on the injectors your using. If there stock, you leave it stock. If there larger you take your stock injector flow rate and divide it by the new value. Convert that number into a percentage and use that number to multiply the stock table with PT. The -16 LTFT values you attack in VE and MAF tuning. Everything else I agree with.

Young Padawan your schwartz is flacid the great AGTR god has spoken and it is so.


i know its an old thread i just couldnt resist

[AaronGTR]

Very old thread... we've all learned a lot more about tuning since then, and still learning. That guy doesn't even come on these forums anymore though. Everyone here got tired of his 'ish. lol