yehhh....i installed the monroe quickstruts and sway bar bushings [Archive] - Forum


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05-18-2007, 05:23 PM
I installed the Monroe quickstruts and moog front/rear endlinks and front swaybar bushings today...everything went as planned..but longer than expected as there are a few things that were unexpected. Monroe emailed me back saying the springs they use are the equivalent to those of the SE model....The car looks higher then before but probably because the springs are not yet settled but the ride is way better now. The creaking noise is gone as i assume the strut mounts of the oringal struts were bad (181000kms on them). Few things to know:

1) Passenger side swaybar bushing bracket bolt holds the power steering line as well.
2) Swaybar bushing brackets are 15mm bolts. Remember to mark on the swaybar where the previous bushings were so that that it easy to know where to put the new ones.
3) Easier to install front endlinks by raising control arm with a floor jack.
3) Big subframe bolts are 13/16 bolts. Need lots of muscle and heavy duty torque wrench to tighten to 180lbs/ft Front ones are easy to get with deep socket

- When working on the front sway bar put the jack stands on the rails that lead up the end of the rear crossmembers. This way you can put the floor jack on the rear crossmember inorder to lower it when installing the bushings.

Transmission nuts and bolts are 15mm and torqued to 89ft/lb

4) Small rear crossmember bolts are 15mm. Tighten to 52lb/ft
5) Strut top mounting bolts are 14mm and tighten to 18lb/ft
6) Front struts knuckle bolts are 13/16 and tighten to 133lb/ft
7) Rear strut knuckle bolt nuts are 11/16 and tighten to 89lb/ft
8) Rear struts are harder to install then front ones as getting them in and out are a pain.
9) Once you get the struts roughly inline with the knuckle use a large C-clamp to line up the holes . I then use a long screw driver in the bottom knuckle hole to pull down to line of the holes vertically and then put the top bolt in before putting the bottom bolt.
10) If the rear steering knuckle bottom bolts do not go easy you will have to remove the caliper and hang it on the strut springs. This will give you room to hammer in the bottom bolt.
11) Impact wrench works wonders (I have a 300lb/ft 24V CMT cordless one which was able to remove all the bolts/nuts above as well as lugs with no problem).
12) The steering to knuckle bolts will not go all the way in when you hammer them back in the last 10mm will just remain out. Use the impact on the nuts to tighten them until the bolt goes all the way in. Then torque it with the torque wrench.

I think that it.

05-18-2007, 05:40 PM
Yea, since I have issues with my aftermarket struts and springs, I am getting the Quickstruts all around.

Your ride height should get lower once the new springs are settled. As far as the springs that come with it, I really wouldn't care even if they are softer than stock GT springs because I think it's hell of a deal. If you get all the factory GT parts from GM, you will probably end up spending twice as much.

05-18-2007, 05:51 PM
I got mine from seemed to be only place that had both fronts and rears available for a decent price....came to around $794US including shipping to Toronto ON. About $900 Canadian + 192 tax and customs total $1100 canadian. GM was charging me alot just for the struts + labour...would come to $1700 canadian...quickstruts include springs and new strut mounts.