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cardude007617
06-14-2007, 12:54 PM
hi, lately ive been hearing a creaking noise from my front driver's side tire. it seems to only make the sound when im braking and am under 10mph, so like just before you stop. any ideas?

jditch02GT
06-14-2007, 03:13 PM
I have that same thing going on too.

gectek
06-14-2007, 03:17 PM
check out the TSB on here about the kluber lube, its the boot on the caliper, its dry...

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 03:43 PM
whoa what now? in plain noob language please haha

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 03:45 PM
u mean this forum?
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39198

Brken123
06-14-2007, 04:08 PM
That's the one. I just purchased the fluid not too long ago, and am going to do this over the weekend after I get the trans diagnosed. I'll let you know if it fixes it.

One thing you may want to try to determine if it's your caliper.....take the wheel off (I'm hoping you know how to do this as it's pretty simple) and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place. DOn't remove all 4 bolts, just the two that hold the caliper in place. Once they are out, pull the caliper off the rotor, remove the rear brake pad, and push the piston back (slowly, with either a C clamp or any other technique), Once the piston is pushed back, put the pad back in, put the caliper back in place, put the bolts in and tighten them, and then finally put the wheel back on. Get in the car, start it, and pump the brakes a few times. The pedal will go all the way to the floor the first time, and then get firmer each subsequent time you press it. This is normal, so don't freak and think you just broke your car. Once done this, take the car for a ride, and test the brakes. If the noise is gone, then order yourself the fluid, and when it comes in refer to the TBS thread, and lube the piston boots. If the noise is still there, you've got something else going on.

Reason I say this - from my own experience, I learned that pulling the caliper, and putting it back on after moving the piston and all fixed the noise, but it only lasted about 2 weeks before the "creaking" came back again. I've had the fluid for about a week now, just haven't had time to work on the car. I'll post my results after I do this and let you know if it worked for sure or not.

I noticed you said your a noob - if you aren't comfortable taking the car apart, don't. Take it to a mechanic, and let him do it. I would say the dealer if it's under warranty, but since your car is an 01 (it says so in your avatar) I'm guessing your warranty is up. If you don't know what your doing I'd hate to see you end up breaking the brake line or messing up the master cylinder because you drove the piston back too fast. If you attempt it, like i said just slowly and carefully push the piston back.

Good luck, let us know how you make out!

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 04:14 PM
would a garage charge barely anything for this kind of a thing?

gectek
06-14-2007, 08:47 PM
dont take it to a garage if you can work on it urself, all you need is the lub and a size 12 socket and a ratchet, take the bottom bolt out, swing the caliper up all the way, then apply the lube at the top of the boot right inside the groove for the sealing lip. then let it run down. wipe off any excess fluid, put it back on and drive, thats it

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:08 PM
i cant.....and if i get lost, i dont kow anyone i can call. ill just take it to a garage somewhere. how much would be inline for this?

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:11 PM
they will prob charge it out like a brake job..., and there is no getting lost really, its just take wheel off, take bottom bolt out of caliper, turn caliper up, apply lube, put caliper back, put wheel back, maybe someone in ur area can help, say for a 6 pack or so...

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:12 PM
um im 17...no beer....but i nor my family doesnt know of anyone who's knows this stuff, and im having enough of a stuggle getting my rear spark plugs out

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:15 PM
would this fix it for a decent amount of time? or will i find myself doing this every 2 weeks

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:15 PM
okie dokie, well they will prob charge for a 1 hour brake job, itll fix it for good, i did it and have had no probs for 2 yrs

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:28 PM
sweet, so like 50 or 60 bucks?

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:33 PM
prob...

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:35 PM
wow, my dad called the dealer and they said from 100-150

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:37 PM
just go to a brake shop, they can do it

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:54 PM
brake shop??? in 53217..................

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:55 PM
well if there is a dealership there has to be an area mechanic that works on cars, just go there, they might not rape u as bad...

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 09:58 PM
oh a regular servce station

gectek
06-14-2007, 09:59 PM
sure, thatll work, as long as they can do brakes also

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 10:12 PM
ok ,thanks man, how much does the lube cost?

gectek
06-14-2007, 10:16 PM
i might have some laying around somewhere...just one tube is enough to really do both sides, so u can use half and save the rest...but a tube of it costs like $10 or so at the dealer

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 10:17 PM
can i try like WD40 or 3M to see if it works? or my teflon bike chain lube?

gectek
06-14-2007, 10:18 PM
no, the lubs actually lubricates and helps seal the boot to the piston

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 10:19 PM
oh its not like a metal on metal kinda thing, like u gotta take it apart to get to it

gectek
06-14-2007, 10:33 PM
no, its the rubber boot on the piston of the caliper, you dont have to take anything apart, just pull the caliper boot away from the piston and apply the lube, thats it, then put the boot back on the piston and make sure itll seal good.

cardude007617
06-14-2007, 10:51 PM
ok i got it now i think

gectek
06-14-2007, 11:02 PM
ko, alot of dealerships wont know what u are talking about when u go to get it, just use the pn and u wont have to worry though

freeze12
06-15-2007, 08:45 AM
I made My own lube as the GM Kluber fluid did not last long. I took some silicone paste like Napas "Sil-Glyde" & then mixed some with a good spray silicone lube till it was just flowable & then applied the mixture under the caliper boot using a syringe with a long tip to get under the boot & lube the caliper piston & seal. i did this before Winter & this mixture has held up well.

Brken123
06-15-2007, 09:50 AM
Beg your pardon, but did you say you don't want to attempt the brake caliper project, yet you are taking the rear spark plugs out - which is something that potentially involves unbolting two motor mounts and jacking the motor up a bit, depending on how you are going about removing the plugs?

cardude007617
06-15-2007, 11:27 AM
you dont have to go thru all that

Brken123
06-15-2007, 12:46 PM
If you have really small hands, no you don't, but removing and reinstalling the plugs against the firewall is by no means easy. If you can pull that off, you can for sure fix your brake issue.

cardude007617
06-15-2007, 12:53 PM
well u have enough room to get back there, i jsut cant see for sh!t back there

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
06-15-2007, 05:14 PM
i have had that problem before and under warranty they replaced the caliper creaking in front drivers side most felt while pumping pedal while sitting still.. no warranty now.. but pads lots of life and rotors the same and not odd marks etc .

my car gets stored in winters ( heated storage ) past years cold storage . no sounds that i can remember when it was put away in storage . I went in to drive it around once a month for first 3 / 4 months but not the last 2 months . the stored area gets alot of concrete dust . so whether the little drive around a few times inside the 3 parking floors caused my brakes to make noise ,once i brought it out of storage ???

first noise i noticed ( scraping noise but not the creaking YET ) at the BACK brakes my freind ( ex mechanic for midas ) said it was the emergency brake being adjusted to tightly at some time .. he did not remove any brake parts but with screw drive carefully pried out the pistons just enough so pads were not touching the rotors. then by hand rotated rotors were pads were not in contact ,to deteremine noise was not caliper or pads but e-brake because it is not used much and maybe to tightly adjusted.

it was a rusty like rubbing scrappy sound like scalely rust . to get rid of most of THAT noise he said stand still and while slow drive press in e-brake handle button hold it in while pulling handle up and down a few times to free up e-brake a bit. seem to work to get rid of most of that noise. still a bit scraping noise not as bad though ..

now took car for long long drive to the valley. it's been back a while and cool damp rainy days since long drive. get into car today still a bit of scraping as mention but now both back rear calipers are creaking loudly BUT i do not feel it in the pedal or hear it while sitting still andf just pumping pedal. maybe that is because the creaking is at the back now ???.

would this be because of just natural drying out of boots or because he just bushed back pistons just enough to clear pads from contact with the rotors for the few mintutes he did it.

i did not pay any attention to noises while i was on that long valley drive which i did .SO DO YOU HAVE TO remove pads etc to lube the boot yes or no

cardude007617
06-15-2007, 06:52 PM
whoa thats alot, my sound is not from the back where the e brake is, my sound is from the front drivers side wheel (brake).
and i guess yes^^

gectek
06-15-2007, 07:58 PM
yes u do...but just the inside pad because it covers the piston.

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
06-16-2007, 03:53 PM
i bought the 2 bottles of KLUBER from the gm dealer. the fluid comes in plastic bottles not much bigger then eye drop bottles , and you get about a 1/4 inch deep amount . bottles are not even 1/8 filed if i used that measurement correctly. IS THAT ALL YOU NEED.

hope i do not mess up and or spill any . not much in each botlle to work with. the bottles come in sealed up gm bags and labels on bottles are not proper labels but more like type lteered labels. my price about $11 cdn. for the 2 together.

do you need to pile up it wee bit of the boot to get the fluid under or behind. or will it creep it's way in threw any non-visible gaps between boot and piston

freeze12
06-16-2007, 05:31 PM
You have to get a small screwdriver or something else between the boot\seal & piston and apply the fluid so that it covers the piston surface,i just took the screwdriver & ran it around the piston & applied the lube...be very careful not to rip the piston boot\seal!

gectek
06-16-2007, 07:43 PM
no dont use a screw driver, just pull the boot back with ur finger. u dont have to pull the entire boot up, just a small spot to apply the lube, then let the lube run its course. put it at the very top of the piston and itll run both ways down to coat the entire boot seal. thats it

cardude007617
06-17-2007, 03:06 PM
is this harmful? like can i let it go for awhile without any problems?

williamGT
06-17-2007, 03:48 PM
I just worked on my brakes today, I lube everything pins seals caliper and behind the pads. no more creaking

Quaf069
06-20-2007, 11:17 AM
Kluber Fluid. I had the same problem. Its like $5 a bottle. I couldnt find it at any of the local stores. I ordered it at GM Parts Direct.

It looks like a nasal spray bottle, but is only filled like 1/4 way up with. Take a q-tip and apply it under the rubber boot of the piston on the caliper. Try to get it as far up and around as your can. You'll probably need a few q-tips.

You might not hear a difference right away, but give it a day or two and you won't hear anything. I did mine like a year ago and no more creaky sound.

Hope it helps

Quaf

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
06-20-2007, 12:05 PM
Quaf069.. Thanks For Q-tip ...tip

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
06-27-2007, 06:35 PM
Did Mine Today . Remember My Creaking Is In The Rear Disc Rotors. I Threw A Ton Of Lube In There From Gm. Still Had A Smig Left.... I Only Drove It Around Trailer Park And Then A Mile Or 2 Up Strett . Brought It Back Still Creaking ... I Hope It Goes Away With More Driving . What I Pain In The Butt Doing It .

gectek
06-27-2007, 11:22 PM
ok is it more of a rotational creaking or a steady sound...sounds like maybe a warped or unparallel rotor maybe, or a bent hub assy

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
06-28-2007, 11:57 AM
I ONLY HERE IT AT A CREAMPING SLOW DRIVE . AS I AM BRAKING VERY LOUD CREEKING. WOULD NOT THINK IT WOULD BE A BENT HUB ASSEMBLY . ASPECIALLY WITH THE EXTREMELY LOW MILEAGE ON THE CAR EACH YEAR STILL AT 74,000 KLMS.

NO PROBLEM WHEN IT WENT INTO STORAGE , THEN IT APEARS VERY QUICKLY JUST AFTER COMING OUT . PUT SOME MILES GOING THE VALLEY 45 MINTUTE DRIVE UP AND THEN 1/2 HOUR BACK and drove around up there a bit .

WARPPED ROTOR , COMMON BUT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BACK. i am guesssing that before the creaking came along , and as soon as very day possibliy , it came out of storage i had a sound like it was a rusty rotors scraping sound. a brake mechanic here took screw driver to gentley prie brake pads away from rotor .

then we rotated rotor. still heard scraping. so ruled out calpiers or pads causing that rusty scraping sound. he said emergency brake was adjusted at some point a wee bit too tight, and were i do not use it much it seated it self in just a bit .

he suggested hold buton in on emergency handle a pull it up and down a few times to try to break that seated area and maybe loosen it up just enough.... it got rid of MOST not all of the niose.

then a few days later we did the valley trip.

did not pay attention to any nioses while going to and coming back from valley.

then car sat a few days in a lot of rain cool days. then when i drove it again a heard the creaking niose . other folks here say that the scraping sound and what little we did with the scraping , has nothing to do with the creaking it was just going to come along.

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
07-07-2007, 06:25 PM
i did that plus used a q-tip to apply it to the inside of the boot. now have driven it a bit not alot and not steady . but still have same sound. rear rotors , pads , piston and seal all look great . i use a bottle of the kluber on each side turns out that is quite alot of lube for the job per side. now i added nickle anti seize to the thread part of the slider bolts .

i did not put type of lube on to the longer thinner smooth barrel shpe part of the slider bolts that sit or slide into those small ridged shape protection boots. reason i did not lube that part or end of the sliders , is because there was no lube apartly on them when i took them out . that is the only thing i can think of my self they may need lube.

the sliders and for that the calipers made no noise when i assembled everything back to gether then by hand mover the calipers inward and outward.

different that the pads when i filp up and out of the way the calipers stay on the rotors. . but never touched them to take them off the rotors either.

i wounder if i again jack it up on each rear corner at a time take each wheel at a time and apply the brakes gentily and slowly ( same as when i hear it when driving ) as someone rototes the rotor by hand has i gentlely apply the backs will help me here the noise and pin point it then.

on these 2000 gagt 's rear disc brakes ,do you put any grease or other on the back of the pads the part that does not contact the rotor. i ask because i have seen mechanics do that to other cars at times .

i would hate to have to get rid of brake parts that have lots of life left in them if it is only a noise problem. loud noise creaking mind you. my self i would love to just spray some kind of lube all over the brakes . but i hear that is not a good idea. do not hear the creaking on hard braking or higher speed braking. do not hear it up front where they are known to creak , done that been there. have to be slowly 10 klms give or take a bit and hold pedal down gently and gradually . not pumping it .

gectek
07-09-2007, 09:43 PM
you service the rears just like the front, and also put some lube on the pins, they need it. that is a cause of the noise right there as well, if you dont lube them they can either break or sieze in the bore, either leaving you with no brakes, or brakes that wont disengage. do that asap...

blazerk5drew
07-10-2007, 04:56 AM
hey i noticed the brake topics are up and i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a gt rear disc conversion for my 2000 se

williamGT
07-10-2007, 05:00 AM
hey i noticed the brake topics are up and i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a gt rear disc conversion for my 2000 se

search. and welcome to the site.
http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30456&highlight=disc+brakes+conversion

timka86
07-10-2007, 07:41 AM
i did that plus used a q-tip to apply it to the inside of the boot. now have driven it a bit not alot and not steady . but still have same sound. rear rotors , pads , piston and seal all look great . i use a bottle of the kluber on each side turns out that is quite alot of lube for the job per side. now i added nickle anti seize to the thread part of the slider bolts .

i did not put type of lube on to the longer thinner smooth barrel shpe part of the slider bolts that sit or slide into those small ridged shape protection boots. reason i did not lube that part or end of the sliders , is because there was no lube apartly on them when i took them out . that is the only thing i can think of my self they may need lube.

the sliders and for that the calipers made no noise when i assembled everything back to gether then by hand mover the calipers inward and outward.

different that the pads when i filp up and out of the way the calipers stay on the rotors. . but never touched them to take them off the rotors either.

i wounder if i again jack it up on each rear corner at a time take each wheel at a time and apply the brakes gentily and slowly ( same as when i hear it when driving ) as someone rototes the rotor by hand has i gentlely apply the backs will help me here the noise and pin point it then.

on these 2000 gagt 's rear disc brakes ,do you put any grease or other on the back of the pads the part that does not contact the rotor. i ask because i have seen mechanics do that to other cars at times .

i would hate to have to get rid of brake parts that have lots of life left in them if it is only a noise problem. loud noise creaking mind you. my self i would love to just spray some kind of lube all over the brakes . but i hear that is not a good idea. do not hear the creaking on hard braking or higher speed braking. do not hear it up front where they are known to creak , done that been there. have to be slowly 10 klms give or take a bit and hold pedal down gently and gradually . not pumping it .

I have that same thing too. Where do/did you get your brake pads and rotors?

It's just crappy pads/rotors. It pays to pay more for the "quiet" pads and higher quality rotors. Nothing you grease will fix this, unless you wanna grease the surface between the rotor and pad ( don't try it).

I bought the lifetime warranty pads for 20$ at murrays. they last me about a year and i never have to pay again.

You can go with the higher quality 50-60$ pads, with only a 2 year warranty, and they will most likely last the two years, or they may not ( have not tried it) so you may end up paying another 50-60$.

Unless your steering wheel vibrates when you brake, that's your problem.

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
07-10-2007, 10:40 AM
well i RE-lubed them again yesturday . with lp lube + kluber + permatex lube . i put it on the back of the pads / slides which i did not do last time ... and then of course put it on and under the piston boot.

took it for the same time and distance driving which would normally allow me to hear the noise . but so far no niose . is it truely gone ( only ) more driving aspecially in hot weather i figure will tell. is it gone for a while or for good ???

PS: only one guy that i know of , in all the brake creaking noise thing , mention grease on the back of the pads or on the 2 c shape ends of / opposite side of caliper from the piston that make contact with the pads . thanks

CUSTOMGAGT2000SEDAN
07-11-2007, 10:56 PM
seems to be gone . hopefully til the brakes ware down til they needed to replaced.