Ticking on a 1999 Grand AM GT [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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mjtr21
07-26-2007, 11:46 PM
Okay well I have a ticking noise on my 3.4 engine. I have read so many posts saying that it could be either the lifters or just piston slap. How do you tell the difference? My car does the ticking no matter the temperature of the engine. It does it when the engine is at operating temperature too. So I think that eliminates the piston slap. I also just had the LIM job done about 10,000 miles ago. Right now I have 85,000 miles and this is the first time I have ever heard this noise. So what are your opinions as this noise is getting to be very annoying? Please and Thanks

mjtr21
07-27-2007, 09:20 AM
okay i lied. when i started the car up this morning there was no ticking noise whatsoever. then as the car warmed up and i drove about 2 miles down the road it started the ticking. so my issue is that the engine ticks when its warm only.

nate2023
07-28-2007, 12:29 AM
My friends vehicle does that but he knows why, his makes noise when it warms up, he know hes throwing a rod bearing becuase he replaced it cause he couldn't find an oversized one. Does the noise come from kinda near the bottom or in the wheel wells?

XtremeGaGt00
07-28-2007, 01:13 AM
the 3400 motor is notorious for the "ticking noise"...my car does it now with 92000 miles on it and has done it since probably about 45000 miles, maybe try replcing the lifters..get rid of some of it, the piston slap your just gonna have to deal with...inless you wanna dump more money into the motor...my .02 cents

mjtr21
07-28-2007, 04:16 PM
yeah i can hear the noise if i listen near the left wheel. i could also hear it when i listened near the pcv valve. so its in that area. today i had my car sitting in the driveway and i went into my house for a few minutes and came back out and when i got back into the car the SERVICE ENGINE SOON was flashing. so one of the cylinders was misfiring. would this help any? and by the way i dont think its piston slap because i read that that noise only occurs on a cold start. my noise doesnt start until the engine gets warm.

3x3
07-28-2007, 04:17 PM
If the sound is coming from the side of the engine where the serpentine belt is, you might want to check the belt tensioner. It's a $40 part new and a 15-minute job to replace it.

mjtr21
07-28-2007, 04:23 PM
oh and i should also say that there is a power loss too. when taking off from a stop, the engine hesitates.

mjtr21
07-28-2007, 04:24 PM
no, the noise is coming from the drivers side of the engine.

XtremeGaGt00
07-28-2007, 04:54 PM
if the check engine light is flashing, that def means its misfiring and when the light flashes, it is catalyst damaging, menaing your catalytic converter is beings damaged by the unburnt fuel..

mjtr21
07-29-2007, 09:14 AM
yes yes i already know that. well today im going to get the code checked and im going to get some seafoam and put it in oil. a friend told me that should help with the noise. well im still up for other suggestions.

mjtr21
07-31-2007, 03:40 PM
*update - today i was on my way to get my oil changed out and i heard a chime so i looked and my oil pressure light came on. it only comes on when i am idling. when i push the gas the light goes out. also the Service Engine light was on for P0305 but it went out. i checked the spark plug and it was fine. or does this indicate that the lifter(s) isnt working for cylinder 5? I know that something isnt working right in cylinder 5. the engine still ticks and i still have power loss but not as bad as before. i also added a quart or Rislone in place of a quart of oil. i also got 10 w 30 castrol gtx put in. my mechanic said that if enough oil pressure builds up that lifter should start working again, is that right? thanks in advance.

fo44rd
07-31-2007, 06:25 PM
hmmmmm....sounds like a dying oil pump or a greater problem mounting if you have to start using a heavier oil to maintain oil pressure.

mjtr21
08-01-2007, 03:55 PM
no i dont think so. please does anyone else think i need to replace the lifters or what? again is my car is misfiring in cylinder 5 does that mean a lifter in that cylinder isnt working? well tomorrow i am going to do a compression check to see what comes up.

cardude007617
08-01-2007, 04:17 PM
i dont know but i used to have this like funny vibration knocking noise at start up before i changed my plugs, they were the bosch +2s i think and i changed to TR55s and it fixed that but sounds like u have somethin more serious

hass
08-01-2007, 07:57 PM
Mine has the annoying ticking noise as well.
Been doing that for a while lately.

Only does it until the engine warms up, then it's not very noticeable.

But now the SES light came on.
Then about 20 miles later, the Change Oil light came on.
Meh.
Just changed the oil about 80 miles ago too.

Anyone have any problems using 10W-40 oil?
I've used that the past two oil changes for the summer.
Using 5W-40 on the next oil change, since it gets kinda cold here in Buffalo.

mjtr21
08-01-2007, 08:23 PM
yeah but my problem is my ticking only comes up when the engine is warm. my engine never ticks when its cold. also the light that came on with my car was the low oil pressure light. and if i rev the engine to 800 RPMS or higher the light goes out.

Sprucegagt
08-02-2007, 06:16 AM
If you have to rev the engine to keep the oil pressure light out, then you have a serious problem. The miss could be caused by any number of things, but I don't think a collasped lifter could do it.

mjtr21
08-02-2007, 02:51 PM
yeah well i took the car to my mechanic and he said it could be the oil pump or the rod bearings could be going. so more than likely i will need another engine put in.

fo44rd
08-02-2007, 08:53 PM
i dont know but i used to have this like funny vibration knocking noise at start up before i changed my plugs, they were the bosch +2s i think and i changed to TR55s and it fixed that but sounds like u have somethin more serious

Those bosch plugs +2, +4, or otherwise are garbage plugs. I have heard nothing but horror stories about them and I used them once (the +4's)and the cars idle quality was noticable worse then with acdelco R43TS6's. The kick in the sack is they costed like $6.99 a plug.

cardude007617
08-02-2007, 09:08 PM
haha ya, those bosch plugs are a lil scary. how about bosch spark plug wires....i somehow have those on my car too

fo44rd
08-03-2007, 06:43 PM
haha ya, those bosch plugs are a lil scary. how about bosch spark plug wires....i somehow have those on my car too

Never tired them. I now have a good hook-up at an AC-DELCO and MOTORCRAFT wholesaler. I think the delco wires are less for me then the BOSCH (AUTOZONE PREMIUM BRAND) WIRES. So I wouldnt even bother buying them. The HYPE on those +2 AND +4 PLUGS was too tempting to pass up. They did slightly improve the fuel mileage, but the idle quality went to hell. I only have 31K on my car as of right now. I haven't had to do plugs and wires yet.

nate2023
08-03-2007, 08:53 PM
If you are losing oil pressure the ticking noise could be that you are about to spin a bearing. if thats the case then heavier oil will only quiet the problem a little. i'm wondering if the misfire and some of the noise might be a compression ring being damaged. OR when the LIM went and it leaked antifreeze into the oil you could've lost oil viscosity and wore a lot of parts down. Don't flame me, but thats the problems i had in my other 2 grand prixs before i got rid of them. next time you change the oil, lets it run down a smooth white surface and look for metal particles, it make the oil look like gold almost. :) Hope these help.

mjtr21
08-04-2007, 01:14 PM
yeah so would a compression test tell me anything? should i get one done? are there any other kinds of tests i can do before getting another engine?

cardude007617
08-04-2007, 01:37 PM
Never tired them. I now have a good hook-up at an AC-DELCO and MOTORCRAFT wholesaler. I think the delco wires are less for me then the BOSCH (AUTOZONE PREMIUM BRAND) WIRES. So I wouldnt even bother buying them. The HYPE on those +2 AND +4 PLUGS was too tempting to pass up. They did slightly improve the fuel mileage, but the idle quality went to hell. I only have 31K on my car as of right now. I haven't had to do plugs and wires yet.

so you think i should look into getting thoes off some day too? im stuck between MSD and taylors.

nate2023
08-04-2007, 10:17 PM
Cut open your oil filter at some point and look for metal particles

fo44rd
08-04-2007, 11:29 PM
so you think i should look into getting thoes off some day too? im stuck between MSD and taylors.

Mine is bone stock factory. No MODS. So iwould stick witht he factoruy ones. It looks like you have been moding, so if more performance is your goal the factoryu ones are not going to get you that.

mjtr21
08-06-2007, 03:49 PM
yeah sorry to bug your little conversation there but i have some updates. my low oil pressure light hasnt come on in about 5 days and there is hardly any hesitation now. and my SERVICE ENGINE SOON hasnt come on for about a week now. so my problem might be clearing up but i still have that stupid ticking noise. i brought it to 4 different mechanics and 1 said it was rod bearing, 2nd said it was lifters, 3rd said it was lifters, and 4th said it could be either but more likely lifters. the mechanics told me that if it was the connecting rod or rod bearings it would be louder and sound more solid. but my noise is just a tap/click noise. they each told me different prices but what would and ideal price range be to get the lifters redone? please and thanks.

fo44rd
08-06-2007, 10:53 PM
yeah sorry to bug your little conversation there but i have some updates. my low oil pressure light hasnt come on in about 5 days and there is hardly any hesitation now. and my SERVICE ENGINE SOON hasnt come on for about a week now. so my problem might be clearing up but i still have that stupid ticking noise. i brought it to 4 different mechanics and 1 said it was rod bearing, 2nd said it was lifters, 3rd said it was lifters, and 4th said it could be either but more likely lifters. the mechanics told me that if it was the connecting rod or rod bearings it would be louder and sound more solid. but my noise is just a tap/click noise. they each told me different prices but what would and ideal price range be to get the lifters redone? please and thanks.

I think tghe lifter are pretty expensive. Like at least $40 a piece X 12 of them. Plus other part and I amnot sure what labor goes for in your area but I am guessing at least $500. AT LEAST, if it is done right.

nate2023
08-07-2007, 04:36 PM
What about the low oil pressure light, low pressure caused your lifter mishap, what if you lost pressure again, not to scare you but, what if it comes back, probably should get that checked also.

fo44rd
08-07-2007, 11:11 PM
What about the low oil pressure light, low pressure caused your lifter mishap, what if you lost pressure again, not to scare you but, what if it comes back, probably should get that checked also.

Excellent point. If low oil pressure re-appears with the new lifter job it is an excellent chance of wiping them out too.

mjtr21
08-20-2007, 04:56 PM
well my car died on me last night about 20 feet from my driveway. i coasted in and now it wont start. well i shouldnt say that because it does start. what happened was i was driving down the road and getting close to my house and the car started chugging and hesitating bad (no hills just flat road). and the low oil pressure light came back on again and then the car just shut off. i havent had my oil pressure light come on in a couple of weeks either. so i parked it in my driveway and checked oil and it was fine. i tried starting and i had to hold in start for about 5 seconds and when it started the car was shaking and dies after about 5 seconds. thats all it does now. so what does anyone think happened?

fo44rd
08-21-2007, 06:32 PM
well my car died on me last night about 20 feet from my driveway. i coasted in and now it wont start. well i shouldnt say that because it does start. what happened was i was driving down the road and getting close to my house and the car started chugging and hesitating bad (no hills just flat road). and the low oil pressure light came back on again and then the car just shut off. i havent had my oil pressure light come on in a couple of weeks either. so i parked it in my driveway and checked oil and it was fine. i tried starting and i had to hold in start for about 5 seconds and when it started the car was shaking and dies after about 5 seconds. thats all it does now. so what does anyone think happened?

No idea.


My advice is to start a new link. People might have made original comments on the original topic and dont check this one anymore.

BTarb24
08-31-2007, 06:21 PM
any news on this? Mine is doing the EXACT same thing yours was. I have a 99 gagt with ~135k miles. over the last week it developed a fairly loud ticking sound (not the normal slight tick during warmup i used to always hear). I already did my LIM and head gasket about a 1.5 years ago. I meticulously torqued everything down to spec and aside from this I haven't had any trouble.

It has the oil pressure light when I let off the gas as well. It seems to only do this on warmer days. In the evenings it is perfectly fine.

The sound comes from the drivers side of the engine, just like yours. It is loudest under the PCV.

I always change the oil between 4k-5k miles... when i heard the sound and saw the light I changed it the next day, but this made no difference.

Sometimes when I come to a stop and idle the car will start to sputter slightly... once it stalled, but started right back up. If i put it in nuetral while stopped and rev slightly it runs fine. .. it just doesn't seem to like idling for some reason.

Sprucegagt
08-31-2007, 06:52 PM
When did the oil pressure light come on?

BTarb24
09-01-2007, 11:43 AM
When did the oil pressure light come on?

on hot days, after the car has warmed up, it comes on when i take my foot off the gas and the car idles. it does not happen every time, but it seems to be more frequent with higher temperatures.

Sprucegagt
09-01-2007, 01:31 PM
Sounds to me like you have some worn out bearings or oil pump.

BTarb24
09-01-2007, 01:49 PM
where is the oil pump located? Is it a bolt-on or is it located inside the bottom half of the engine? I know it's not above the heads since i've changed the head gasket and didn't see it.

traingeek087
09-01-2007, 04:59 PM
ok I dont keep up on this forum that much b/c I just dont have the time but I can throw out some infromation that may be helpful. I am in school for automechanics and we come across this stuff here and their.

1.) RARELY will your oil pump ever "go out". The pump is submerged in oil (lubricant)
2.) Lifters will "tick" high pitch, also consider the speed of the engine when it's idling. A camshaft moves 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft, so time the tick to the cam, is it the same? or is it faster?
3.) A bearing is going to "knock" lower pitch than a lifter. power break the engine when your stopped and see if it gets louder or goes away
4.) Drain your oil and when you do it put a flashlight up to the oil when it's draining. if it is sparkley there is metallic flakes in it.

Also, what kind of oil did you say your running?

BTarb24
09-01-2007, 05:22 PM
I took the oil cap off and was looking at the lifters in the valve cover while it was running. The ticking was definitely not happening at the same speed that the lifters were going up. I would say it was closer to 50% of their speed.

What does this mean? and would it be why the low oil pressure light comes on?

ps: sound is hard to describe without comparison, but I consider it to be more of a low-pitched sound. It's definitely more of a solid, in the depths of the engine type of sound. it did not get louder when I opened up the oil cap.

I had 5w30 oil in there, but when i changed it this week i put 10w30 to see if it would make a difference.. but nope.

traingeek087
09-02-2007, 11:05 PM
if it's not at the same speed as the lifters then it's not the cam. that would make it 50 percent faster, basically the crankshaft or lower engine. Maybe main bearings or a rod knock? It's hard to tell w/o having the car right there. One thing is for certain, lack of lubrication can't be it if your running 5/10w30 for oil. did you ever run the thing with low oil? I have a couple days off here from school and I've got a few books on engine diagnosis, when i get some time i'll do some searching to see if i can find anything. Good luck in the mean time.

fo44rd
09-02-2007, 11:29 PM
Sounds to me like you have some worn out bearings or oil pump.

bingo

the main bearings.

BTarb24
09-03-2007, 11:56 AM
I don't have my repair manual handy. Will I have to pull the engine to change out the main bearings?

BTarb24
09-03-2007, 12:00 PM
did you ever run the thing with low oil?

No, it has never run on low oil. It had a LIM leak a couple years back but I only ever saw coolant coming out of the engine. I never saw any in my oil when doing changes and when I took off the LIM gasket the rubber on the gasket was in good shape for all the internal sections.


I have a couple days off here from school and I've got a few books on engine diagnosis, when i get some time i'll do some searching to see if i can find anything. Good luck in the mean time.

That would be an incredible help. Once I know what I need to replace I am always good to go. It's finding out what is bad that is the tough part!

BTarb24
09-03-2007, 12:19 PM
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us80022.htm

this is a decent link that goes over oil pressure and its causes. It might help someone that searches later on.

BTarb24
09-03-2007, 02:17 PM
After doing lots of reading I'm thinking that if I do the project then I'll want to replace my timing chain while I'm in there since it's never been done and I have 140k miles. Also, being that I have some hard knocking I probably have bad bearings so replacing my main and rod bearings would be a good idea.

Here's the part list i've accumulated so far:

$12 oil pump screen
$15 rod bearing set
$40 timing chain
$20 main bearing set
$55 oil pump (maybe)

How does this sound to everyone?

Should I also get the crank and cam sprockets for the timing chain change or are they generally not necessary? (assuming they look ok when I'm in there)

Should I replace the cam bearings?

fo44rd
09-03-2007, 11:38 PM
$55 oil pump (maybe)

?

spend the $55 and get a new oil pump if your going through all this.

traingeek087
09-04-2007, 07:43 AM
yea i'm gonna stick with fo44rd on this one. I'm betting it's the bearings.

BTarb24
09-04-2007, 11:51 AM
the haynes expects you to have disassembled the entire top end down do the block and have removed the pistons and rods before you pull out the crankshaft. Does anyone see a problem with removing the crankshaft with all of that still intact ? (i would obviously disconnected the rods though.)

Also, is it possible to change the crank and rod bearings without completely removing the crank?

BTarb24
09-04-2007, 11:58 AM
migrated problem over to: http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70649