View Full Version : My battery keeps dieing
10-27-2007, 10:48 PM
Hello, im having problems with my battery discharging. It is a brand new battery, i was blaming my alternator but i took it to check at AutoZone, and it passed the test. Idk what it could be, the modifications that I have done are: HID's for headlights and fog lights, i ran new wiring on the fog lights, the wiring has a relay and a fuse. Another mod is an aftermarket stereo, now the stereo's ignition/power is connected straight to the radio amp/trunk release fuse. Does anyone have an idea of what could be the problem? and also, how much can i ask for my car, because im planning to sell it: its a 2001 grand am gt, with 100k, i did a complete tune up at 97k (spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, transmission oil change at 99k, and engine oil changed every 3k), viper alarm with remote starter, Hids on headlights and fog lights, aftermarked stereo with dvd player, brand new tires, and so far thats what i remember. I have barely used the car for 4k miles. well and sorry for changing the theme of the thread. Thanks in advance.
10-27-2007, 10:52 PM
is ALL of your stuff completely off when u turn the car off?
10-27-2007, 10:55 PM
yes, although the stereo doesnt turn off when i turn the ignition off, i still turn it off manually, I have never left something on.
10-27-2007, 11:04 PM
hmmmmm check your chassis grounds....make sure they're good and if theres any rust, clean em up.
i dont know at the moment what else it could really be.
10-27-2007, 11:07 PM
Sorry, but which ones are the chassis grounds?
10-27-2007, 11:12 PM
if you have your headlights wired right up to the car and not through a relay setup, it is negatively switched; meaning that if the ballasts are touching the frame/grounding they may be staying on, but do not have enough power to actually light up the bulbs, this would kill your battery.
10-27-2007, 11:19 PM
Ok, I connected my ballast to the stock headlight wiring, i placed the ballast to a bracket holder that holds the ballast, i screwed the holder (its metal) to the same screw that holds the honk. The other ballasts are hanged from the intake. Do you think that might be the problem?
10-27-2007, 11:20 PM
I installed the Hids around July and the first time my battery died was around mid october, and i replaced it with a new one, and a week later it happened again.
10-27-2007, 11:22 PM
if you have metal ballasts and their making contact with metal of your car i'd say it could be the problem...its just something to check. I know someone who had the same problem with an impala and this was the cause.
10-27-2007, 11:23 PM
OK, ill give it a check. Thanks
10-28-2007, 12:11 AM
Oh this may sound rather dumb, but what kind of battery did you replace the old one with? The stock battery comes with a foam sleeve that is supposed to insulate the battery a little to prevent it from discharging. Some replacement batteries may need that.
Also run an ammeter in series with the battery and check your draw with the car off. It sounds to me like you have a parasitic draw problem. When you have the meter hooked up, and if you see a significant draw of more than half an amp I want to say (Anyone have the parasitic draw spec?) then start pulling fuses and relays one by one until the number drops. This goes without saying, but pull the fuse check your number and then put it back just so you don't mix them up.
10-28-2007, 12:52 AM
Anything over 20 mA I would consider a parasitic load. Normal load for vehicles with all modules asleep is usually 8 mA or so. A phone charger will register at around 50 mA. A bad BCM usually draws around 120 mA or higher.
Actually, now that I think of it there tend to be alot of BCM problems in the GAs because of its location. Sometimes condensation will drop onto the BCM. After that it will seep into the case and cause a fair amount of corrosion to build up inside the module on the circuits. This can cause electrical accessories not to work, security issues or parasitic loads.
10-28-2007, 09:19 PM
My battery is an Everstart. So far i have disconnected the acc cable of the radio from the radio amp/trunk rel fuse, and connected it to the wipers so that it will have power only with the ignition on, hopefully my problem ends. The reason i think its that, is because when i got my head unit installed, the connected the amp power cable to the acc, therefore the amp is always on and the speakers were always on also.
10-28-2007, 09:53 PM
^ That would definitely do it.
Who installed your radio again?
10-29-2007, 08:28 PM
some local shop. they charged 50 dollars. The reason i didn't finish installing it, was because of the amp, but i saw that they connected the amp remote to the radio power. Its kind of late, but o well. Now I learned.
10-29-2007, 08:50 PM
its the radio, i just had the same problem, kept killing my yellow top.if you dont have to use key to tuen stereo on it means its getting power and eating your battery quickly.
first disconnect battery and let sit, use a voltage meter and check the voltage, let a hour go by and check again, shouldnt be any change, check an huor later and still shouldnt be any change, as long as your battery does this then you know the battery is good.
next take stereo out while you have battery out would be good idea. hopefully they didnt cut the harness. go to another shop and ask them for a wiring harness and an antenna adapter for your particular car. it is simple to hook up, follow the wiring diagram on the harness, if you arent good with wire crimps just use electirical tape. you will have two wires you will pu together, take one wire and braid the wires into a Y, do the same with the other, stick bothe wires together, now u have 4 wires, take one from one wire and one from another and twist, do the same to the other two, then take those 2 braided wires and twist as well, then use balck electircal tape. do this for each wire until done. wires you dont use put electircal tape on the ends.im telling you it is simple.
plug the harnesses together and install battery and see if it works. just make sure there is no bare wires, if you see sparks, dont be spooked, it may hurt a little, but not alot.
if you want just hook up all the wires besides the speaker wires and test to see if it works, once it does work, then hook up all the other wires. if you are hooking up an amp, the remote wires needs to be added to the braid "remote antenna"
this is where your problem is, believe me i just spent the entire year tracing this down in my car and felt so stupid once i figured it out, never could figure out why the radio stay illuminated when i closed the doors.
just pray they didnt cut the damn factory wire harness. if you have any problmes pm me and ill give you my cell and ill help you more. it is only as difficult as you make it.
10-29-2007, 08:51 PM
i just reread your last post, if they hooked the amp that way as well, you have the amp and the radio eating you battery, disconnect that **** now and pm me, ill help get it right man.
10-29-2007, 09:04 PM
but if he went to a shop, id hope to GOD they hooked it up with a harness at least..... and didnt just hack the GM garness all to hell
10-29-2007, 09:08 PM
well thanks for the info. Well everything is connected now, now im going to let time pass to see if that was it.
10-29-2007, 09:09 PM
Does anyone have a radar on their grand am that marks the voltage on the battery
? Mine is marking 13.8-14.0 while running, and on stops longer then 5 secs it starts dropping to 12.5-12.6. Is this ok?
10-29-2007, 09:10 PM
OH, and it is connected with the wiring harness, is just the acc from the radio that was connected to a fuse that had power all the time.
11-04-2007, 09:28 PM
so all fixed now?
11-05-2007, 11:28 PM
Yes, its all fixed now, Thanks a lot to everyone.
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