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pontiacguy20025
02-09-2008, 10:49 AM
My car turns off sometimes when im driving. The steering locks and brake locks to. No check engine lights. Nothing appears in the dash. I cant start my car for a long time after try for several minutes. Finally it turns on. Please help... I need to fix this by today or tomrrow. Preferably today cause junk yards and auto parts stores are open.

What it does.

1.)hazard switch is in continuous buzzing.
2.)the powerlocks (lock and unlock)

pontga00
02-09-2008, 11:44 AM
Does your security light come on?

pontiacguy20025
02-09-2008, 01:24 PM
Nope no security light. When it first happend i thought it would be that (10min wait reset type thing but it wasnt). No lights at all turn on. Its just weird. I dont want to take it to the dealership cause they want to charge $90 to hook it up to the diagnostic machine. I just bought and replaced an oxygen sensor, and also bought an alarm. I just started working. :( it sux.. Its like everytime i start to make money or get a job i have to start spending money on my car for repairs. If the security light was on but not blinking what would that mean??

I)ark-ChiLD
02-09-2008, 01:32 PM
do you have any engine mods...or is it completly stock?

pontiacguy20025
02-09-2008, 01:40 PM
all i have is an intake, header, and full custom exhaust. I checked all fuses, the fuel pump works, just change the fuel filter, also have a new oil change, and i just changed the oxygen sensor yesturday. I really dont know what it could be. the only thing on my mind right now is something to do with security. I had no alarm last 2 weeks and it turned off on me. i also just got an alarm yesturday so i know its not that. Ignition switch?? i really dont know.. :(

I)ark-ChiLD
02-09-2008, 02:14 PM
describe your problem in a little more detail, when the car turns off...and you go to turn it back on...what exactly happens? Does it turn on...then turn off after a few seconds?

pontiacguy20025
02-09-2008, 11:57 PM
No it does not turn on right away. Its like if my battery were day. It just cranks, thats all it does. Well i narrowed it down already. I think its the ignition switch. if it were the fuel pump it should have failed already. The car started to fail on me about 2 weeks ago. Today i found out something else.

First time i turned the key in the ignition to the on position i didnt hear the fuel pump kick in.

Second time same thing.

Third time i finally hear the fuel pump turn on. I turned the car on and then i turned it off to see if it were to repeat the same thing. well it did.

Ignition switch??? anyone?? I know its not the crank position sensor. Cause if it were that check engine or some other light would have turned on.

Elderas
02-10-2008, 02:46 PM
my guess would be either a bad pump, frozen lines, or pooched injectors. something to do with the fuel system anyways. i dont think its possible for the battery to stop working for 10 min then come back on.

though i just noticed u live in TX so frozen lines might be a strech.

iceman
02-10-2008, 03:08 PM
I'd start w/ switch as well, lot of people have problems with them.. after that electrical system

pontiacguy20025
02-10-2008, 08:15 PM
how would i find out thats what it is? I spent about $300 this weekend just replacing parts. Would a diagnostic test show the ingition switch failing?? How will i ever know if theres not check engine light or any other lights in the dash? my car is weird.

DoCDooM
02-27-2008, 09:15 PM
Hey man, I had the same problem (excluding the door lock business) the OEM fuel pump on these cars fails in a most miserable and long, drawn out fashion.

My car stopped at highway speeds twice before I finally figured out that there was a fuel problem.

Here is the quick check, open your hood, go to the passenger side of the engine and unscrew the cover on the end of the fuel rail.

Inside is what looks like an oversized tire valve (pin in the tube), get a rag and use a plastic pen to press on the pin, gas should just SHOOT out, if it dribbles then your fuel pump is failing.
(and it will take months before it actually goes T*ts up)

Replace the entire fuel tank module and get AFTERMARKET parts Genuine GM is an analog for expensive and badly engineered. The aftermarket module costs the same or less and will actually work for a few years.

Expect to pay about $450 for the unit but this will also fix you erratic fuel gauge problems and any fuel pressure regulator issues that may be peeking at you.

GM recently changed their recommendation for this repair to JUST the fuel pump, (I expect this is purely in the interest of profiteering at the customer's expense as the module replacement fixes too many repeat visit services to your gas tank.

Last year you could not buy the pump by itself and I had to get the whole module.

The gas tank can be safely removed, serviced and replaced by one man, a floor jack, two jack stands, and a cheap socket set in about one easy hour.

FYI the hazard light relay buzzing is very neatly and extensively covered in a thread on this site, the problem is caused by the lead free solder used on the circuit board inside the hazard light switch, this relay also handles your turn signals so it is an issue. The solder starts to crack and connections are lost inside the switch.

There is a TSB on that problem and a possible free repair in the offing from GM, IF your car's VIN happens to be between the ones they list, this problem is extremely common but GM only covers it between 1999 and 2001 (I think)

The hazard light switch can be taken apart and repaired very cheaply but ONLY if you are pretty good with a soldering iron, this is an electronics thing, a mechanic will simply spend $200 of your bux to replace the part.

Cheers and best of luck man.

Dan


how would i find out thats what it is? I spent about $300 this weekend just replacing parts. Would a diagnostic test show the ingition switch failing?? How will i ever know if theres not check engine light or any other lights in the dash? my car is weird.

DoCDooM
02-27-2008, 09:18 PM
Hey man, I had the same problem (excluding the door lock business) the OEM fuel pump on these cars fails in a most miserable and long, drawn out fashion.

My car stopped at highway speeds twice before I finally figured out that there was a fuel problem.

Here is the quick check, open your hood, go to the passenger side of the engine and unscrew the cover on the end of the fuel rail.

Inside is what looks like an oversized tire valve (pin in the tube), get a rag and use a plastic pen to press on the pin, gas should just SHOOT out, if it dribbles then your fuel pump is failing.
(and it will take months before it actually goes T*ts up)

Replace the entire fuel tank module and get AFTERMARKET parts Genuine GM is an analog for expensive and badly engineered. The aftermarket module costs the same or less and will actually work for a few years.

WARNING; INCOMING TECH SPEAK and GROWLING!

Expect to pay about $450 for the unit but this will also fix you erratic fuel gauge problems and any fuel pressure regulator issues that may be peeking at you as well as gas tank vapour leaks.

GM recently changed their recommendation for this repair to JUST the fuel pump, (used to be the whole module, I expect this is purely in the interest of profiteering at the customer's expense as the module replacement fixes too many repeat visit services to your gas tank.

Last year you could not buy the pump by itself and I had to get the whole module.

The gas tank can be safely removed, serviced and replaced by one man, a floor jack, two jack stands, and a cheap socket set in about one easy hour.

FYI the hazard light relay buzzing is very neatly and extensively covered in a thread on this site, the problem is caused by the lead free solder used on the circuit board inside the hazard light switch, this relay also handles your turn signals so it is an issue. The solder starts to crack and connections are lost inside the switch.

There is a TSB on that problem and a possible free repair in the offing from GM, IF your car's VIN happens to be between the ones they list, this problem is extremely common but GM only covers it between 1999 and 2001 (I think)

The hazard light switch can be taken apart and repaired very cheaply but ONLY if you are pretty good with a soldering iron, this is an electronics thing, a mechanic will simply spend $200 of your bux to replace the part.

Cheers and best of luck man.

Dan


how would i find out thats what it is? I spent about $300 this weekend just replacing parts. Would a diagnostic test show the ingition switch failing?? How will i ever know if theres not check engine light or any other lights in the dash? my car is weird.