Replacing serpentine belt [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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FuriousG
09-23-2008, 08:39 AM
Just a quick question before I attempt to do this myself. Where do I need to place my jack and jack stand to replace my serpentine belt? I saw one thread that mentioned using a block of wood and the jack under the oil pan but I always thought using the oil pan to support the weight was a no-no. Can it support it easily or is it likely to sustain damage if I try it?


Also, can someone tell me if I'm on the right track here or if I'm headed for failure?

I plan to put the jack under the engine and raise it just enough to feel snug. Then I plan to loosen the engine mount near the belt and I'm told that will provide about an inch of clearance. From there, the mechanic told me that I can loosen tension on the belt with the tensioner pulley and remove the old one. Then simply reverse the process to install the new gatorback belt.

Anything I'm forgetting?

stillriza
09-23-2008, 09:22 AM
Just a quick question before I attempt to do this myself. Where do I need to place my jack and jack stand to replace my serpentine belt? I saw one thread that mentioned using a block of wood and the jack under the oil pan but I always thought using the oil pan to support the weight was a no-no. Can it support it easily or is it likely to sustain damage if I try it?


Also, can someone tell me if I'm on the right track here or if I'm headed for failure?

I plan to put the jack under the engine and raise it just enough to feel snug. Then I plan to loosen the engine mount near the belt and I'm told that will provide about an inch of clearance. From there, the mechanic told me that I can loosen tension on the belt with the tensioner pulley and remove the old one. Then simply reverse the process to install the new gatorback belt.

Anything I'm forgetting?

That is exactly how I did mine a few weeks back. I also used wood under the oil pan. It is a 2 person job..at least for me it was.

Getting the belt of and raising the engine and prep was only about 30 mins to do..but getting the belt back on was much trickier.

intmd8r
09-23-2008, 10:59 AM
X2

Once the mounts were unbolted, it took all of 3 seconds to get the belt off. It took me 30+ minutes to install the new belt though. What a bitch. That is mostly because I attempted it by myself. It is much easier with a buddy releasing the tension on the belt tensioner while you "thread" the new belt around the propper pulleys. I'm not saying that it can't be done, it's just easier.

You are both right and wrong about jacking up a car by the oil pan. The oil pan can not support the entire weight of the vehicle, so jacking up the fron end by the oil pan only is a no no. However, if the engine mounts are unbolted, it will stand up to the weight of the drive train, and is the only proper way to move the engine clear for this job.

FuriousG
09-23-2008, 11:05 AM
Can't you thread all the other pulleys first and then do the tensioner after all the others are in place? I don't have anyone to help me out (except my wife but I'm not sure how much strength will be needed...)

Then again, if you guys were able to get it done by yourself then I should manage just fine. I'm not on any time restraints so I'll wait until I have plenty of time to get the job done. Thanks for the info!

surreal_awakeni
09-23-2008, 11:20 AM
I've never required a second person to do this. I can do this by myself in under 10 minutes. It's really not that difficult. Jack the engine as already outlined. When you are putting the new belt on, thread it around all the pulleys except for the top idler pulley. You need to keep tension on the belt so it stays on the pulleys, and then release the tensioner and the belt should slip onto the idler pulley fairly easy since there's no lip on it.

SSRacer
09-23-2008, 12:34 PM
Damn...you guys are slow. Only took me about 15 min to get the new belt on by myself...lol

Nick-G
09-23-2008, 12:39 PM
Damn...you guys are slow. Only took me about 15 min to get the new belt on by myself...lol

Same here even when I had the supercharger on the car it still only took me like 10 min.

stillriza
09-23-2008, 12:51 PM
Well I was a virgin then. (my first time installing a serp belt)
First times are always the hardest.:heh:

KhellendrosxS
09-23-2008, 05:04 PM
I can change mine in 15 min and that included jacking up, undoing mounts and lowering. I suppose having the s/c on and off so much has made me a pro.

Its really not that hard, just start with the bottom pulleys and work your way up.

Dirtball
02-22-2009, 03:42 PM
Is the tensioner the one on the left that has the triangular bracket under it/going up to it? You stick the socket on the nut down in the triangular piece?

If I'm correct, which way do you move it? Clockwise or counter? I've changed many serpentine belts on many cars but this one has me stumped. I tried the pulley I'm talking about earlier today and couldn't move it one way or the other... though I'm really strong and was worried about breaking or stripping something, so I didn't really try as hard as I could.

I think my tensioner pulley is starting to "sing", so I want to get it replaced. I'll replace the belt at the same time.

Thanks for any help...

KhellendrosxS
02-22-2009, 03:56 PM
As you stand looking at the belts Im pretty sure its the pulley right below the alternator if thats not the one its in that general area. You need to insert your tensioner bar or ratchet into the square hole and push it towards the firewall to relieve the tension.

Dirtball
02-22-2009, 07:17 PM
Dang... I saw that, but it looked huge... way too big for a socket... I'll look closer at it... matter of fact, it looked like a place to hook an engine puller to me... LOL.

Thanks for the info...

2000 GT Coupe
02-22-2009, 09:59 PM
You actually got to lift the engine to replace the belt............WTF stupid design I would say.
Typically tensioner should be 1/2 drive ratchet which does look big but should not look like a place to hook engine puller.

KhellendrosxS
02-23-2009, 05:01 AM
Dang... I saw that, but it looked huge... way too big for a socket... I'll look closer at it... matter of fact, it looked like a place to hook an engine puller to me... LOL.

Thanks for the info...

Yeah, you dont need a socket...just the ratchet itself. There is a square hole that it fits into at the center of the pulley.

Does your car have a belt diagram? It should show you where all of this is. As for getting the belt out once its off you have to put a board under the oil pan and carefully jack it up until the jack touches the board. Then undo the motor mount that is on the side of the engine with the belt system. You may have to give the jack a few more pumps as the weight of the engine is transferred to the jack.

bigstribs
02-23-2009, 07:31 AM
15mm accually

Dirtball
02-23-2009, 11:19 AM
Thanks for the replies... I didn't get a chance yesterday to look at it again but I will this afternoon.

I have the belt diagram but it only has the routing, not how to release tension on the idler pulley.

I know how to do everything else, AFAIK, because I've changed the belt on my mother's Park Avenue; it has to be close to the same procedure (except for releasing the tensioner, which was simple to figure out on that 3.8).

I'll figure it out or be back... it's very frustrating to look like a dummy, as I rarely have trouble figuring out simple things... this one just stumped me.