GT1 overheating ??? Head gasket? Please Help. [Archive] - Forum


View Full Version : GT1 overheating ??? Head gasket? Please Help.

10-28-2008, 11:41 PM
I just bought a 2002 Grand am GT1 sedan with the 3.4. Drove it for two weeks running perfectly and all the sudden it over heated. went to the dealer to get a thermostat, water pump, and threw plugs and wires in while I was at it. The dealer service guy said I didnt need a water pump unless it was leaking or making noise so I didnt get the pump. Burped the system by pulling off the two small hoses from the resivor and pressurizing the chamber slightly till water came out of both hoses. I let it idle for an hour and watched the water level. looked good so i shut it off and went to bed. The next morning i let it warm up and loosened the little 7mm bleeder port on top of the heater hose outlet from the water pump got a little air then water and tighened it back up. I left for work and got 10 miles and it overheated again so I puled over let it cool and tried to bleed it again. It kept overheating. rrrrrrrrr!!!!

After work i made sure it was bled again and drove it home. it started to over heat and the heater in the car went cold. then hot again and the temp guage went down again. stopped at napa and got a new cap and it seemed to do fine as I ran errands arround town and went home. The next morning went to wor and What happens? IT OVERHEATS AGAIN!!!! took me 5 gallons of water to get home (25 miles).

Theres no oil in the water, no water in the oil, no steam coming from my exhaust. Could it still be a head gasket? Did I get swindled? Is there anything I could have missed? Please help.

10-29-2008, 05:52 AM
when you let it also have to turn the heat on full blast so the valve opens and lets coolant circulate into the heater core..there could be air in there too...when you let it the bleeder valve while its running...yes youll get coolant everywhere but you can throw some water on it...when your done..thats the way ive always done....

10-30-2008, 11:10 AM
I've had the heater on full hot throughout this whole process.

10-30-2008, 03:19 PM
What about the intake gasket. The mating area along the heads and block to the intake manifold look pretty dirty. could an intake gaskte leak cause coolant loss?

10-31-2008, 06:27 PM
Yes, a separation in the lower intake manifold gasket could cause coolant loss. Overheating, I doubt it. There would have to be massive coolant loss. You are all over the road on what's going on. Did you get a new thermostat? Did you have the dealer "assuming GM" diagnose the overheating problem? Do your fans run on low and then high when the coolant temperature is hot?

10-31-2008, 08:23 PM
LIM/head gasket leaking can cause overheating for sure.

When both of mine went, it overheated every chance it got.

10-31-2008, 09:52 PM
I put a new water pump in last night... still over heating. New Water Pump, Thermostat, and cap so far. burped the system a bunch but heater still wont work consistently. when its hot or warm there is no steam from the tail pipe. water in the oil or oil in the water.

10-31-2008, 09:55 PM
Sound like i should let the dealer do a $100.00 inspection?

10-31-2008, 10:06 PM
Heater core? Sounds about like what my '92 Sunbird did to me.

11-12-2008, 05:01 PM
Well I took it in it was the head gasket..... better yet both heads were cracked.
no leakage on the back head but a small crack between the valves and the fron head had several.

Found reman heads for $155 a piece $25 shipping on each with new valves installed. and ready to bolt on.
Clearwater cylinder head in florida.

Gotta send the old heads back in the box the new ones come in but shipping is prepaid in the origional fee.

I had to buy the head gasket set through the dealer for $154.81
And the bolts were $66.00
Do I need to replace the intake manifold bolts too?

11-12-2008, 05:56 PM
I don't know if you have to but I usually do, it's cheap insurance. They might be torque to yield bolts.

gagt Mechanic
11-12-2008, 10:06 PM
there is a tsb on replacing the lim bolts and revised torque specs, also use lock tight on the diagonal bolts, 80% of the time I do lims, the diag bolts are no longer tight, I think the tsb also says to use lock tight.