P0132 Code Thrown [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

PDA

View Full Version : P0132 Code Thrown


Jake
02-25-2009, 04:20 PM
My buddy got his hands on a tech 2 scanner from his dad and we scanned my car again and it is throwing the code p0132 the first 02 sensor is reading really high voltage it is reading 900+ mV and the rear one is reading 30-40 mV. The rear 02 sensor was supposed to be deleted from my PCM when I sent it in, wouldnt that stop it from coming up on a scanner? I had problems a while back with my A/F ratio pigtail touching on the rear header and shorting out but I didnt see any damage to the 02 sensor wiring itself just the pigtail. Idk if this is somehow related to that I am kinda stumped any input would be appreciated.

Jake
02-25-2009, 04:53 PM
Ok so my buddy now cleared the code and we were driving the car around with the scanner on and the front 02 sensor is now bouncing around between 50 and 800 which he said its normal for it to bounce around like that. And the rear one is now reading 443-447 mV we dont get it lol. Earlier before we deleted the code my volt meter was reading 15-15.2 volts and would hardly drop but now that the code is deleted it is sitting at its regular 14.0-14.2 and isnt moving. Could the code being thrown have something to do with the voltage of the car? That doesnt make much sense to me.

Mattyj724
02-25-2009, 05:07 PM
i dont see how the volts could be higher than 14-14.5 i mean the alternator doesnt produce more than that, and a shortage would be lowering the volts not rasing them, idk how it would be higher

lone_wolf025
02-25-2009, 05:07 PM
That's weird. I recently had issues with that same code but it was intermittent. Have you done any really short trips lately, like several short 5 min hops with hours between them? Could've just been your sensor fouled up...dunno about the voltage though.

As for the rear O2 sensor, the sensor is still plugged in and sending information back to the computer, it just no longer has a code it can throw for that rear sensor being bad.

lvemy3100
02-25-2009, 05:50 PM
DTC P0132

Circuit Description

Heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) are used for fuel control and post catalyst monitoring. Each HO2S compares the oxygen content of the surrounding air with the oxygen content of the exhaust stream. When the vehicle is first started the powertrain control module (PCM) operates in an Open Loop mode, ignoring the HO2S signal voltage when calculating the air-to-fuel ratio. The PCM supplies the HO2S with a reference, or bias, voltage of about 450 mV. The HO2S generates a voltage within a range of 0-1,000 mV that fluctuates above and below bias voltage once in Closed Loop. A high HO2S voltage output indicates a rich fuel mixture. A low HO2S voltage output indicates a lean mixture. Heating elements inside the HO2S minimize the time required for the sensors to reach operating temperature, and to provide an accurate voltage signal. If the PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is above a calibrated amount for an excessive amount of time, DTC P0131 will set.

The HO2S 1 has the following circuits:

A HO2S 1 high signal circuit
A HO2S 1 low reference circuit
A HO2S 1 heater ignition voltage circuit
A HO2S 1 heater low control circuit
A low reference loop circuit
Conditions for Running the DTC


DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0128, P0201-P0206, P0410, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1441 are not set.
The TP Sensor parameter is between 3-40 percent.
The system voltage is between 9-18 volts.
Conditions for Setting the DTC

The PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is more than 890 mV for more than 30 seconds.
OR
The PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is more than 200 mV during decel fuel cut-off (DFCO) for more than 15 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets


The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC


The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Jake
02-25-2009, 07:13 PM
DTC P0132

Circuit Description

Heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) are used for fuel control and post catalyst monitoring. Each HO2S compares the oxygen content of the surrounding air with the oxygen content of the exhaust stream. When the vehicle is first started the powertrain control module (PCM) operates in an Open Loop mode, ignoring the HO2S signal voltage when calculating the air-to-fuel ratio. The PCM supplies the HO2S with a reference, or bias, voltage of about 450 mV. The HO2S generates a voltage within a range of 0-1,000 mV that fluctuates above and below bias voltage once in Closed Loop. A high HO2S voltage output indicates a rich fuel mixture. A low HO2S voltage output indicates a lean mixture. Heating elements inside the HO2S minimize the time required for the sensors to reach operating temperature, and to provide an accurate voltage signal. If the PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is above a calibrated amount for an excessive amount of time, DTC P0131 will set.

The HO2S 1 has the following circuits:

A HO2S 1 high signal circuit
A HO2S 1 low reference circuit
A HO2S 1 heater ignition voltage circuit
A HO2S 1 heater low control circuit
A low reference loop circuit
Conditions for Running the DTC


DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0128, P0201-P0206, P0410, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1441 are not set.
The TP Sensor parameter is between 3-40 percent.
The system voltage is between 9-18 volts.
Conditions for Setting the DTC

The PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is more than 890 mV for more than 30 seconds.
OR
The PCM detects that the HO2S 1 voltage is more than 200 mV during decel fuel cut-off (DFCO) for more than 15 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets


The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC


The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.


Kinda like reading chinese to me haha. I really appreciate the input Mark and I pm'd you again.

Jake
02-25-2009, 11:31 PM
That's weird. I recently had issues with that same code but it was intermittent. Have you done any really short trips lately, like several short 5 min hops with hours between them? Could've just been your sensor fouled up...dunno about the voltage though.

As for the rear O2 sensor, the sensor is still plugged in and sending information back to the computer, it just no longer has a code it can throw for that rear sensor being bad.

The only driving I do is 10 miles highway and back to work. Sometimes around town but not really. I guess I will put my old pcm back in and see what it says, a SES light will still be thrown because the rear 02 sensor but I will be able to scan it again and see if it still throws the high voltage code.

The code only seems to be thrown when it is cold as well. I was driving all around earlier after it was cleared with no problems but as soon as I leave home tomorrow morning I am sure it will pop up again.

lone_wolf025
02-26-2009, 12:07 AM
The only driving I do is 10 miles highway and back to work. Sometimes around town but not really. I guess I will put my old pcm back in and see what it says, a SES light will still be thrown because the rear 02 sensor but I will be able to scan it again and see if it still throws the high voltage code.

The code only seems to be thrown when it is cold as well. I was driving all around earlier after it was cleared with no problems but as soon as I leave home tomorrow morning I am sure it will pop up again.

Seems a lot like a fouled sensor to me which is anything from a tune that needs to be updated, leaky injectors, or just a bad sensor. Your mods are almost identical to mine cept that I don't have a full exhaust or my TB installed (still).

My case the sensor was getting fouled up on short 5 min hops but after a long drive it'd shut off after 3 cycles. I took it to my mechanic and they told me the sensor was going "ape****" since I hadn't had it tuned since I put on the headers and P&P upper and lower. I haven't seen the light come back on since I got it tuned by Mark, but then again I haven't been doing super short trips either.

Personally, I'd leave your current PCM in as going back to a stock tuned PCM is just gonna make matters worse as the comp will be going nuts trying to compensate for all the additional airflow.

Jake
02-26-2009, 12:26 AM
Seems a lot like a fouled sensor to me which is anything from a tune that needs to be updated, leaky injectors, or just a bad sensor. Your mods are almost identical to mine cept that I don't have a full exhaust or my TB installed (still).

My case the sensor was getting fouled up on short 5 min hops but after a long drive it'd shut off after 3 cycles. I took it to my mechanic and they told me the sensor was going "ape****" since I hadn't had it tuned since I put on the headers and P&P upper and lower. I haven't seen the light come back on since I got it tuned by Mark, but then again I haven't been doing super short trips either.

Personally, I'd leave your current PCM in as going back to a stock tuned PCM is just gonna make matters worse as the comp will be going nuts trying to compensate for all the additional airflow.

I just got my pcm back from Mark a few weeks ago so it isn't the tune. And it isn't the injectors, when we had it on the Tech 2 everything was reading 100% normal except that front 02 sensor. Maybe it's a $hitty sensor but I thought 02 sensors lasted a lot longer than 50k miles haha.

Jake
02-26-2009, 10:56 AM
I expected the code to be thrown again on a cold start but I drove all the way to the place where I get my haircut and it was fine (Bout 5-6 miles away). Then after I left tehre it came on about 2 minutes later... What do I do from here? New 02 sensor? Could the rear one not being plugged in affect the way the front one reads?

cardude007617
02-26-2009, 12:20 PM
so you havent changed your upper O2 yet? if not, i'd grab one off ebay to save a few bucks. rock auto even isnt bad price wise......

lone_wolf025
02-26-2009, 12:26 PM
The rear O2 has nothing to do with the front sensor. They're two completely different systems. Since your tune is good, and you said your injectors are good too its possible its a bad sensor. I'd tell ya go for a long drive say a solid 15-20 min (long enough to hit full operating temp) turn off the car and let it cool down completely (3-5hrs) and drive it around a few more times to get that 3 cycles the comp needs to turn off the light. If it goes off its a fouled sensor. If not, its likely a bad sensor.

Jake
02-26-2009, 03:41 PM
The rear O2 has nothing to do with the front sensor. They're two completely different systems. Since your tune is good, and you said your injectors are good too its possible its a bad sensor. I'd tell ya go for a long drive say a solid 15-20 min (long enough to hit full operating temp) turn off the car and let it cool down completely (3-5hrs) and drive it around a few more times to get that 3 cycles the comp needs to turn off the light. If it goes off its a fouled sensor. If not, its likely a bad sensor.

I am kinda leaning towards a bad sensor but I will do what you suggested. Thanks a bunch for all the input.

Jake
02-26-2009, 07:14 PM
K now the light went off on its own and never came on the whole ride home, I am leaning towards the sensor even more now. Can they be cleaned or does a dirty sensor just need to be replaced?

lone_wolf025
02-26-2009, 08:53 PM
K now the light went off on its own and never came on the whole ride home, I am leaning towards the sensor even more now. Can they be cleaned or does a dirty sensor just need to be replaced?

Sensor only gets dirty if you've got something else wrong. You could replace the sensor on the assumption its going bad, but I'd put money that its getting fouled from too much fuel in the exhaust before I'd bet on it only going bad intermittently. Personally, if I had the equipment I'd want to test the injectors to make sure none of them are leaking or that they're all spraying correctly. If you know without any doubt that all your injectors are good, then I would replace the sensor. But I'm funny about replacing parts so...

Jake
02-26-2009, 10:20 PM
Sensor only gets dirty if you've got something else wrong. You could replace the sensor on the assumption its going bad, but I'd put money that its getting fouled from too much fuel in the exhaust before I'd bet on it only going bad intermittently. Personally, if I had the equipment I'd want to test the injectors to make sure none of them are leaking or that they're all spraying correctly. If you know without any doubt that all your injectors are good, then I would replace the sensor. But I'm funny about replacing parts so...

Well if one or more of the injectors were spraying incorrectly wouldnt it cause the a/f ratio to be messed up? WHen we had it on the tech 2, the a/f ratio was normal under WOT, mid throttle and idle as well.

lone_wolf025
02-26-2009, 10:24 PM
Well if one or more of the injectors were spraying incorrectly wouldnt it cause the a/f ratio to be messed up? WHen we had it on the tech 2, the a/f ratio was normal under WOT, mid throttle and idle as well.

I dunno to be honest.

cardude007617
02-26-2009, 11:10 PM
wouldnt bad injectors cause funny idles and make the car run funny? like wouldnt the combustion be "off" a bit and uneven so to speak?

Jake
03-03-2009, 02:32 AM
Light comes and goes as it pleases now. I went a little while (Idk like 2 months) without my tuned Pcm. Now, the a/f ratio reads normal but is it possible that during the time I was on the stock pcm it was running rich and fouled up the 02 sensor? It seems Rand (Coupe) had the exact problem I did with his a/f ratio pigtail getting burned by his headers and his thread on here and gaoc never had an ending so I am left playing the guessing game.

If it helps my gas mileage has also gone down, from about 22-23 mpg to about 20. My plans for next week are new spark plugs and most likely a new 02 sensor. If the light still comes on I guess thats 1 more thing I can eliminate being the problem. How do you test injectors?

cardude007617
03-03-2009, 12:18 PM
well that mpg change can be because of weather or just slightly different driving habits.
so what controls or reads the O2 sensor? just the pcm or is there something in between. i ask because I am wondering if something got focked up from shorting the **** out of the sensor with that pigtail (my pigtail for the record lol).

Jake
03-03-2009, 03:41 PM
well that mpg change can be because of weather or just slightly different driving habits.
so what controls or reads the O2 sensor? just the pcm or is there something in between. i ask because I am wondering if something got focked up from shorting the **** out of the sensor with that pigtail (my pigtail for the record lol).

Well thats what SpruceGaGt said in Coupes thread that frying those wires shorted out his sensor, but at the same time if it was a serious problem with the sensor wouldn't that make the light stay on constantly instead of going on and off? Idk there is multiple things it could be but my friends dad is going to lend us the Tech 2 this weekend and we are going to for sure find the problem if it takes us all day because it is driving me nuts.

Jake
03-13-2009, 06:32 PM
We hooked the Tech 2 to it again last weekend and once again there was nothing out of the ordinary. We checked each injector as well and nothing. No misfires either. We changed the plugs and wires as well that day and the plugs werent erally that dirty so its obvious the car isnt actually running rich but for some reason the Pcm thinks it is. My friends dad says he is 99% sure the problem either lies within the Pcm or the 02 sensor itself. I have never heard any complaints about Mark from Mp Racings tune jobs so I am going to rule out the pcm for now and change the 02 sensor early next week. Pretty much everything else has been checked/tested so it is one of those 2 things we think.

Jake
04-07-2009, 09:40 PM
Well after further investigetion I have found this. The car will only kick the light on when the car is at 2100-2200 RPM's or more for 30 seconds (AKA highway driving) My a/f ratio gauge starts to read rich at this time until I let off the gas and it goes back to normal. I've tested it numerous times and that is the only time the light will come on. Everytime it was on the scanner we only tested it at idle or going slow so that could be why we never found anything. Hopefully this weekend I wil lget the Tech 2 again and I will see whats going on at WOT. Or at least whe nthe car exceeds 2200 RPM's.

lone_wolf025
04-08-2009, 01:29 PM
Well after further investigetion I have found this. The car will only kick the light on when the car is at 2100-2200 RPM's or more for 30 seconds (AKA highway driving) My a/f ratio gauge starts to read rich at this time until I let off the gas and it goes back to normal. I've tested it numerous times and that is the only time the light will come on. Everytime it was on the scanner we only tested it at idle or going slow so that could be why we never found anything. Hopefully this weekend I wil lget the Tech 2 again and I will see whats going on at WOT. Or at least whe nthe car exceeds 2200 RPM's.

I noticed a while back that on continuous long highway trips (two stop and starts) I get the same code flagged, but once I do "city" driving it goes away. Keep us posted...I'm leaning towards O2 sensor.

Jake
04-08-2009, 02:10 PM
I noticed a while back that on continuous long highway trips (two stop and starts) I get the same code flagged, but once I do "city" driving it goes away. Keep us posted...I'm leaning towards O2 sensor.

Same exact thing mine is doing. Goes away after a little city driving. Maybe my problem isn't related to my mods then I will have to pull out the 02 sensor and check it out.

lone_wolf025
04-08-2009, 02:42 PM
Same exact thing mine is doing. Goes away after a little city driving. Maybe my problem isn't related to my mods then I will have to pull out the 02 sensor and check it out.

Considering we have close to the same mods I'm not too surprised. How many miles are you on? With the original sensor too right?

Jake
04-08-2009, 03:31 PM
Considering we have close to the same mods I'm not too surprised. How many miles are you on? With the original sensor too right?

I just broke 52k yesterday on the original sensor yes. I am thinking running the car all winter + without a tuned pcm for a while it was running really rich and maybe just jacked up the sensor. Although my spark plugs didn't show much sign of running rich.

lone_wolf025
04-08-2009, 05:57 PM
I just broke 52k yesterday on the original sensor yes. I am thinking running the car all winter + without a tuned pcm for a while it was running really rich and maybe just jacked up the sensor. Although my spark plugs didn't show much sign of running rich.

I mentioned the matter to a mechanic and he seemed to think the sensor was bad. Apparently most O2 sensors are only rated for 50k miles he said and I've got near the same mileage. Gonna hit 54k pretty soon.

Jake
04-08-2009, 06:12 PM
I mentioned the matter to a mechanic and he seemed to think the sensor was bad. Apparently most O2 sensors are only rated for 50k miles he said and I've got near the same mileage. Gonna hit 54k pretty soon.

Hmm, I thought they were good for like 100k+ miles. I will for sure pull the 02 sensor this weekend or maybe tomorrow and check it out.

lone_wolf025
04-08-2009, 06:54 PM
Hmm, I thought they were good for like 100k+ miles. I will for sure pull the 02 sensor this weekend or maybe tomorrow and check it out.

That's what I thought too...technically any emissions related component is supposed to work for 8yrs/100k miles...but if a mechanic is telling me that many fail after 50k I'm inclined to believe him...but I'll ask my reg mechanic the same thing.

Jake
06-25-2009, 08:40 PM
Bump for another question. Are 02 sensors year specific? I am thinking about going to get one from the junkyard to test if that will make the code go away, if it does I guess that means it is the front 02, which I am still leaning towards big time, just haven't had the time to fix it completely nor have I had the motivation to because only in the past week the light has been on for like 4-5 days. Before that, has only come on a handful of times in the past couple months.

lone_wolf025
06-25-2009, 10:10 PM
Bump for another question. Are 02 sensors year specific? I am thinking about going to get one from the junkyard to test if that will make the code go away, if it does I guess that means it is the front 02, which I am still leaning towards big time, just haven't had the time to fix it completely nor have I had the motivation to because only in the past week the light has been on for like 4-5 days. Before that, has only come on a handful of times in the past couple months.

Probably is the sensor...at this point you've checked most everything else so it wouldn't surprise me that much. Sensor and/or wiring to it. Keep us posted.

Jake
06-25-2009, 10:29 PM
Probably is the sensor...at this point you've checked most everything else so it wouldn't surprise me that much. Sensor and/or wiring to it. Keep us posted.

We were going to check it out tonight and put on my polished front valve cover but before we began I found something else interesting, a little group of wires below the front header were touching on the header since last year when I installed them I am guessing, and melted it away to almost bare wire. Am glad I saw this now, mainly the wires going to the starter were touching, so I zip tied them out of the way and covered a lot of them in some nice heat wrap stuff. But after I fixed that I didn't get a chance to look at it or do my valve cover :(. We did however briefly inspect the wiring of the sensor and that appeared to be ok, so I am sure it is the sensor itself as well.

roadie
10-22-2011, 02:15 PM
so what was it?