View Full Version : Bad Water Pump
05-05-2009, 04:32 AM
My 2000 GASE (2.4L) has a bad water pump (coolant gushes out of the weep hole). What all is involved in replacing this? I asked because some of the garages in our area are quoting me about $500- mostly labor because they claim that a lot of stuff needs to be stripped out in order to find enough room to do the work.
It's a difficult situation here; we're disabled and just spent over $500 getting a new spring and struts (due to the fact that my mother hit a nasty pothole and broke the left spring). It required most of our disability benefits just to pay this bill (so we're living nearly completely broke for the month). Then the pump goes out the same day we got the garage paid! To top it all off, we're in a very rural area with no public transportation of any kind....and stiill owing $4k to the bank for a car that's useless to us, and I have some very serious illness that requires multiple doctor visits each month.
Anyway, some information might be helpful; sorry for the whine, and thanks in advance.
05-05-2009, 12:56 PM
You can still run it with it not working right, just would not do it a lot.
Seems like the water pump on the 3.4 is a little harder then the 2.4 - here is the list of things to do
Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain out the coolant from the cooling system when the engine is cool.
Disconnect the electrical connector to the oxygen sensor and remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
Remove the following bolts and studs: the coolant inlet housing bolt connecting the exhaust manifold, the bolt to the exhaust manifold to the brace, the studs to the manifold to exhaust pipe and the bolt to the coolant inlet housing to water pump.
Disconnect the following parts from each other: the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe by pulling the pipe downward, the oil pan from the coolant inlet pipe, the camshaft housing from the brake vacuum pipe, the cylinder head from the exhaust manifold, the heater outlet pipe from the heater hose and the timing chain cover from the tensioner.
Loosen and remove the water pump bolts to the engine and the bolts from the pump to the timing chain. Remove the water pump with the cover assembly and remove the cover from the pump.
Install the new pump with new gaskets. Replace the cover and tighten the bolts by hand. Attach the pump to the engine and tighten these bolts by hand.
Attach the pump to the timing chain housing nuts and the coolant inlet pipe to the cover. Also tighten these by hand.
Torque all bolts to the following specifications after all bolts have been inserted and hand tightened: the chain housing nuts to the pump assembly to 19 foot pounds (26 Nm), the water pump assembly to the cover to 124 foot pounds (14 Nm), and the water pump cover to the coolant inlet pipe assembly to 124 foot pounds (14 Nm).
Reattach the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold, tightening the nuts to 11 foot pounds (15 Nm), the coolant inlet pipe to the oil pan, tightening the nuts to 19 foot pounds (25 Nm), and reattach the timing chain tensioner, tightening the bolts to 89 foot pounds (10 Nm).
Reconnect the camshaft housing and the brake vacuum pipe and reattach the front cover, tightening the bolts to 106 foot pounds (12 Nm).
Reattach the exhaust pipe and the manifold, tightening the bolts to 26 foot pounds (35 Nm), the exhaust manifold to the brace, tightening the bolts to 41 foot pounds (56 Nm) and the nuts to 19 foot pounds (26 Nm), the manifold to the exhaust pipe, tightening the nuts to 26 foot pounds (35 Nm), the heater pipe to the heater hose and reattach the exhaust manifold heat shield, tightening the bolts to 124 inch pounds (14 Nm).
05-08-2009, 04:45 PM
Fixed! Thanks for the info. :)
Now it seems like I've got a bad pulley bearing... not a huge deal compared to the other stuff. People stare at me out in public when I drive by because it's loud!
Anyway, thanks again.
vBulletin® v3.7.2, Copyright ©2000-2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.