Car won't start....... [Archive] - Forum


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05-09-2009, 11:00 PM
Well I just bought a 2002 GAGT Coupe a little over a month ago. Only problems I noticed was the wheel bearing or sensor, the stock Monsoon HU screen wasn't working, and the constant clicking from the dirty multi-function switch. The Trac Off, SVS, and ABS lights are on. A couple weeks later the Security light came on a few times while driving. Replaced the stock HU with an after-market one with the proper kit. One day at a gas station the car wouldn't turn over. Security light was flashing. Called dealership and they told me about the 10 minute reset. Have had to reset once a week since. The Security light has been on constantly for the last week.

Was sitting in a parking lot tonight talking on my cell. Shut the car off and left the stereo going. Radio clicked off like normal. Finished my call and turned the key. Nothing. Didn't turn over. Figured it needed a reset again. Dash lights up and all the lights go out except for the flashing air bag and SES. No flashing Security light. Radio doesn't even come on. Head lights dim when the key is turned to start. Hear a click coming from behind the glove box.

Almost killed the battery couple weeks ago and when I turned the key on the radio didn't come on. She barely turned over and started. Figured the battery is dead tonight so got a friend to give me a boost. Didn't make a difference. What's going on? Is it that retarded Passlock? Sorry for the long post.

2000 GT Coupe
05-09-2009, 11:35 PM
Sounds like the passlock if you do not want to replace the ignition there is a way to add a resister and fool the system
here are a couple of links that can help.

I found that link in this topic

I would however look into doing like on the first link, easier access for one.

05-10-2009, 07:53 AM
That's what I was thinking but the security light is not on or flashing when the key is in the ON position. Instead the Service Engine Soon light is on. First time I've seen that light come on. I'm going to do that resistor bypass as soon as I can find the time.

Will disconnecting the battery reset the security system? I'm thinking of trying that first. The car is still sitting in that parking lot about 20 minutes from home. It's really windy and raining today. Very cold outside. Lobster season started last week and I don't have much free time. So I may not be able to get back to the car until tomorrow.

My first concern is getting the car home. I'm in the Magdalen Islands on the opposite end from any garages or tow trucks. Getting it towed could be costly.

So can it be the security system even if the security light is not on? Why would the Service Engine Soon light be on even though the engine isn't running? And why is the radio not coming on?

05-10-2009, 12:35 PM
I would say start checking fuses. That could be your problem with the radio. Another thing to check would be the starter. Could be that the solenoid is getting stuck and not engaging and thats why you are getting the clicking. With the SES light on I would see if anyone you know has a code puller or see if you can rent/buy one from the parts store. That will tell you exactly whats going on and give you a better idea of what to check into

I dont think that it is the passlock since there is no flashing security light and it is actually making noise or doing something when you turn the key

05-10-2009, 01:02 PM
i had a problem like this when i relocated my batt in the trunk. it would barely crank if at all. and everything was dim, had a bad ground from the batt. to the chassis, cleaned and made a better connection and its been fine since

05-10-2009, 02:18 PM
The SES light is on when the car is not on. It's just the way it is. I don't know the reasoning behind it. Your problem very well could be your ingnition cylinder. It's a common problem on the GA. Something I read that you may want to try is getting another key made and see if that works. I know some people have problems when the key is severely worn down to the brass. I can't guarantee this'll work, but it may get you up and running in the meantime.

Also, this may sound stupid, but make sure you have your car in park. Maybe even shift into gear and back into park. Perhaps it's not fully engaging and could potentially cause the car not to start.

05-10-2009, 04:56 PM
The clicking is coming from inside the car. Sounds like it's coming from behind the glove compartment. It's not the same click that my dirty multi-function switch is causing. I have no idea if there is clicking coming from the engine bay cause it was really windy and I couldn't hear.

My after-market HU has not come on once before. Couple weeks ago when the battery was almost drained. She barely started and then the HU came on.

The headlights dimmed quite a bit when I turned the key. If nothing happened then where was the power going? And why did the security, ABS, SVS, and trac off lights disappear only to be replaced by the service engine soon? All I did was shut the car off?

Someone said there's a guy down here with a reader/scanner. I'm assuming it's an all-purpose one. Would that read the error code or do I need the special GM scanner?

2000 GT Coupe
05-10-2009, 05:08 PM
any obd II scanner should work to read the engine codes, the SES light, but the SVS will not be read by most generic scanners.

05-10-2009, 08:30 PM
Alright I have an update. Managed to convince my father to give the car a boost considering he was travelling that way. Didn't do anything. Wind is so strong now that he had to hold the hood to keep it steady. We learned a couple things.

First, there is no clicking coming from the engine bay. So either the solenoid(sp?) is stuck or it's not the problem.

Second, the battery seems good. Headlights are bright but still dim when the key is turned to the start position. Maybe a loose battery cable or dirty posts.

Third, there is definitely a click coming from behind the glove box. It clicks when you turn the key to start, and again when you turn the key back. What is it?

Checked the neutral switch. Will not turn over in park or neutral. Tried holding the key on while shifting from one to the other.

Couldn't check any fuses because the wind is too strong. May not be able to stop the door from flying off the hinges. lol The radio still is not coming on. Am thinking maybe a fuse blew for the ignition. Looking through the manual I see there are two ignition switch fuses and one ignition system fuse. I'll have to wait till tomorrow during the day when the wind dies down.

Kinda fed up now. Am picturing the bill for the tow to the crooked GM dealership here. I think whatever tripped the SES light is preventing me from starting the car. Arg!!

05-10-2009, 10:04 PM

are you keeping a charge in the battery when it does run,
is a boost kinda mandatory?
sometimes alternators can kinda "fade" they dont always just quit they can have a really hard draw on your battery and not charge the battery properly leading to voltage issues

the click sound at "on" and back could be the blower motor for the vents can you get air from the vents at "on"?

05-11-2009, 05:18 AM
Have never needed to boost it before. My father says the battery cables could be lose or the posts are dirty. Enough charge is going through to run all the lights but not enough to start the car. Possible I guess. But that still doesn't explain why the HU is not coming on. The radio can't draw that much charge.

Wouldn't the battery light be on if the alternator was getting bad?

I'm gonna go check to see if the blower is working and inspect the battery and cables later today. Cause of the high wind we didn't go fishing this morning. Probably head out just before lunch so I won't be able to get to the car till after supper. Gonna check all the fuses too.

GM seriously screwed up with these cars. Car working fine, shut it off for ten minutes, car then dies all by itself. lol

05-11-2009, 09:21 AM
Hopefully the battery isn't toast.

Was just talking to the good dealership in PEI. Said the bulb for the Security light may have burnt out. This may have tripped the Service Engine Soon light. So the Security light is flashing but I don't see it. So I'm gonna try the 10 minute reset. Here's hoping.

He didn't know why the radio wasn't coming on though. Whenever Passlock was acting up, the radio still worked. Hopefully a fuse is blown.

05-12-2009, 08:30 PM
Okay I'm officially stumped. Went back to the car tonight. When I turned the key I noticed the Security light was not burnt out. Only light that stayed on was SES. Radio didn't come on either. Left the key on for 12 minutes but didn't start. So Passlock was not tripped.

Checked all three ignition fuses and they looked fine.

Now here's the strange part. I got a scanner/reader from buddy along with a quick tutorial on using it. With the key off I connected the reader. Soon as I plugged it in the door chimes came on. Because I have an after-market HU, the chimes come from a little speaker behind the HU. Came with the harness. I normally can't hear them, they're too quiet.

Turned the key on and all my normal lights came on. So now I have the original 4, Trac Off, SVS, ABS, and Security (which isn't flashing), plus the new light SES. The reader gave error code P0128 which is "Coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature. My radio also came on. Tried to start her but the battery is now too weak. Only turned over twice. So now I just need a boost to get the car home.

So what is this error code? It wouldn't erase it. Seems like the car was in some kind of lock-down and the reader unlocked it. What is going on and will it lock up again?

05-13-2009, 02:01 AM
the search button gave me this for the code...
as far as the starting issue, don't have any ideas atm.

05-13-2009, 03:06 AM
well im not sure what causes that to happen but i do know that i had that happen to me twice in addition to the passlock tripping manytimes... lucky for me im a tech so i have my own scanner and my car would do the same thing too... its as if the whole car went on lock down because nothing would work. and i really mean nothing, not even the key fob to unlock the doors... but for some reason by plugging something in to the dlc 3 it "unlocked" everything and the car would start, run, and function properly... then i got tired of dealing with that and decided to do the pass lock by pass. i havent had any problems since, and its been atleast a year since i did it...

do the by pass, it worked for me (and many others) im sure it will work for you too

also if im correct, its normal for and ses light (or check engine light) to be on while the key is "on" and the engine if off. and that goes with any car.

05-13-2009, 06:47 AM
Here is the starter schematic for my 2003 GAGT.
I know that you have a 2002 but it will give you a bit of direction.

Suffice it to say, there are a lot of fuses, switches, relays and modules involved in simply starting this car. You say that you don't hear any clicking coming from under the hood, but there should be. There is a starter relay in the fuse box under the hood that should click when you turn the key to Start. Perhaps it is too windy for you to hear it, but you should be able to feel it by putting your fingers on top of the relay and have someone turn the key to Start. You can swap this relay with another one that is in the fuse box if you think that it is bad.
Also, in my car, there is another fuse in the left fuse box of the instrument panel. All of these must be good in order to start the car
At the very least, if you follow your red power cable from the battery, it will lead you to the starter. On the starter is another cable (PPL on my schematic coming from the starter relay) that controls the solenoid. Put a meter or 12vdc test light on that wire and have someone turn the key to Start. If you get voltage there then the starter should turn. If it doesn't, then either you have a bad starter, dead battery, bad ground or something of that nature. At least you will know that all the switches, fuses, relays and modules before that are good.
Try it and let us know what happens.

05-16-2009, 06:15 AM
Any update on this?

05-16-2009, 07:59 AM
so your battery isn't staying charged either?

05-16-2009, 04:36 PM
The Security light flased for a while and then while in Bristol TN. I turned the key and nothing! There was a GM mechanic there and he said the car was in theft mode, told me about the reset and I gotit home. Took it to the dealership and they replace the Body module? aboutn a $400. part but it fixed it.
Good Luck

05-20-2009, 10:10 AM
First off, sorry about not updating. Fishing has kept me extremely busy. Lots of wind and a severe lack of sleep. 6 more weeks. Blah.

Checked the battery cables briefly and the ground wire. Cables look good and are tight. Lots of rain meant I haven't been able to actually work on the car. I have been meaning to touch up the paint on a couple spots and am going to try to get the car in a friend's building this weekend to do it. While it's in there the battery is coming out and put on a charger, the alternator will be tested, and Passlock will be bypassed.

Haven't had any problems with the battery lately. I'm thinking that it's fine till I get home in August. Having to leave the key on for 10 minutes to reset the Passlock may have drained it. The last few times it happened was at night so all the lights were on.

The car locked itself up again Saturday. Only light that stayed on was the SES. Again the door chimes and radio didn't come on. Had to go get buddy's reader/scanner. This time I made sure both the scanner and car were off. Soon as I plugged it in the door chimes came back. Turned the key and the radio came on. Car started like normal. SES went out soon as the car started and the scanner said there were no error codes. The Security light and the other three stayed on like normal.

I'm thinking that instead of the security light flashing and forcing me to reset it, the car is deciding to just lock up completely. So my first concern is bypassing Passlock because I don't have a scanner to unlock the car with. My question is which method should I use? The easy way with just one resistor or the complicated way where you measure the resistance and then try to match it with a combination of resistors?

05-28-2009, 05:23 PM
Cleaned my battery cables and battery. There was a bit of corrosion around the positive terminal but overall it was pretty clean.

Finally got time to bypass Passlock. I went behind the glove box instead of the radio. I followed a tutorial on or something. The link is here somewhere. Couple questions now. First the guy said pin A6 was yellow and B6 was black but mine was reversed. Looking at his pics I think he made a mistake.

Anyway, I reconnected the battery and turned the key on. The Security light came on but didn't flash? The guy said I would have to do a reset to get the BCM to store the new resistor value? Well the car starts fine but the Security light is always on now? WTH?

Kinda worried now. When that light was always on the car would sometimes lock up requiring a scanner to unlock it. Sounds like the connection is bad, like I basically just cut the yellow wire. But I disconnected the battery a couple times after and the car still starts fine. Thought you couldn't lose battery power if you just cut the yellow wire? So there must be a connection?

Anyway here's what I think, well guess what's wrong:
1. BCM gone.
2. Bad connections/corrosion on connector to BCM.
3. French guy at the Source store gave me a resistor out of the range of possible values.
4. Remote starter somehow interfering? It's not a bypass kind though. It's old.

Anybody got any ideas? Am I alright or is the car gonna lock down or require a reset? Why is the Security light on? Can the special GM scanner tell me the problem? Help!

05-28-2009, 05:43 PM
dont quote me on this but i believe when you bypass passlock the light will always be on, but it doesnt matter

2000 GT Coupe
05-28-2009, 06:14 PM
I did the bypass on mine couple of days ago I do not get the security light on.
all the bypass does is tell the bcm that the required resistance is there.
you will need a scanner that can read the bcm and other modules codes.

05-29-2009, 02:33 PM
Not sure who has a meter down here I can borrow to test that resistor. Hopefully the BCM is still good. Heard it's prettty expensive.

I think the guy made a mistake in his tutorial. His pics look the same as mine. The wires are in the opposite places he said they were. As far as I can tell anyway. I assume I used the proper wires because there's only one yellow wire in the center connector at the BCM. Also the Security light came on.

Getting frustrated now. I'm fishing lobster from this little island in Quebec for the next 5 weeks. It's like 200 km long. No Pepboys or Autozone here. One crooked GM, a Toyota, a Ford, and a Honda dealer. Might be 2 other garages down here. Everyone on the island mostly does their own repairs. Also add the fact that except for this liitle english town of 500 people, the whole island only speaks french. I do not. So I think I'm gonna wait till I get back to PEI to figure out what's wrong.