White plastic window guides [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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FunkZ
05-18-2009, 08:27 PM
Heard something snap in my driver's side door when I went to put it up today, then pieces hitting the bottom of the door. I can hear the motor still working but the glass fell the whole way down.

So I pull the door panel off and am able to raise the glass by hand and duct tape it in place for now. I fished these out of the bottom of the door. I assume I need 2 new guides, however am unsure whether I need to purchase a whole new regulator assembly or are the guides still available separately? I saw part numbers of 12335483 and 12335485 listed in another thread, but coming up empty on those.

The sashes appear to be okay, at least the rear is. The front one I guess is still glued to the glass.

Malibu Glow
05-18-2009, 08:30 PM
Ouch. Well you're gonna need a new regulator actually. that piece is part of the track that is connected to the window and the electric motor. At least you window didn't slam down and break.

plastic_indian
05-18-2009, 09:17 PM
TSB #01-08-64-018E may apply here:

Try P/N 22697622 (LH front and RH rear) and P/N 22697623 (LH rear, RH front) to repair run channel guides.

FunkZ
05-18-2009, 10:05 PM
Thanks! those are the part numbers I was looking for. But ouch! $25 each plus GMpartsdirect's outrageous shipping charges? For that price I wonder if it would not be better to just pick up the whole new regulator w/motor, Advance has it listed for $99.

*Wait, RockAuto has Sherman part# GM206 listed as LH front power window regulator sedan Grand Am 99-05 $36.79
That surely can't be the price for regulator w/motor can it? Or would I have to swap my motor?

juanvan
05-20-2009, 08:59 AM
Your best bet is to look for one in a junk yard or similar or on ebay.
Those clips are a PAIN have replaced all of them on on 4 doors of my car.
Some how they all broke with in a week of each other - Strange..

And don't get the one's with the green pullies, they will scratch tint..

FunkZ
05-25-2009, 04:53 PM
Ordered the regulator from RockAuto on Tues, got it on Fri. It's the whole regulator assembly without motor for around $44 shipped. And it had white pullies. The one I pulled out had green ones. Other than color they looked identical though?

Swapped it out today, took a little over an hour. There's just 3 bolts holding the motor to the regulator. The hardest part was getting the gunk off the glass from the duct tape I had put on to hold it up all week.

juanvan
05-26-2009, 06:31 AM
goof off, Acetone would have taken it off - You will have to re wax after them though.

They do look identical but they are not. Or at least the one I got was not.
Have rolls on the window from where it was hitting after the window went down. Messed up the tint pretty good.

2001GrandAmGT
05-26-2009, 06:49 AM
mine just did that...you have to love how the grand ams are like the only cars to use plastic in the window system...i am replacing my regulator today.

FromTheInside
05-26-2009, 04:32 PM
What I did with both of my windows when they failed:

I bought new $47 regulators on eBay and immediately put a bunch of gorilla glue inside of the plastic pieces everywhere while making sure not to get any on the track or anything. I kept checking back every hour and I pressured the foam that the glue was causing in and it created a nice hard and rock solid block that has been flawless for over a year. I hear sometimes that the ebay regulator motors fail so keep your old one just in case.

FunkZ
06-29-2009, 05:01 PM
What a piece of crap. The Sherman regulator failed today after only a month of light use. The cable was off the pulleys, all bound up and wrapped around the motor gear.

RockAuto has great customer service fortunately and is shipping a replacement.

Billy the Kid
07-11-2009, 09:19 PM
I researched the threads here, and found these excellent posts on how to fix the white clips on power windows.

I ordered the parts from GMPD, and tried to install them. On the rear clip, I had to remove the metal "L" bracket, push it through the plastic clip, and then spent hours trying to make it fit back onto the black plastic cemented window lug. I finally loosened all of the bolts holding the regulator in place, and forced it to fit. The now window tends to bind as it rolls upward.

So, my questions are:

Is there some sort of adjustment I could tinker with to make the rear plastic clip move just 1/4" higher in the track?

I ordered part #'s 22697622 for LH Front and 22697623 LH Rear for the drivers door on my 2000 year Grand Am GT Sedan. Did I order the right parts?

Any help is appreciated,
Bill

FunkZ
07-15-2009, 02:28 PM
It sounds like you replaced the plastic guide on your regulator without removing the regulator from the door? If that's the case, I would loosen all 5 bolts that mount the regulator, then operate the window to where it isn't binding, then retighten the bolts.

Also wonder if whether the guides are different enough to require relocating the sash on the glass?

Billy the Kid
07-18-2009, 12:10 PM
It sounds like you replaced the plastic guide on your regulator without removing the regulator from the door? If that's the case, I would loosen all 5 bolts that mount the regulator, then operate the window to where it isn't binding, then retighten the bolts.

Also wonder if whether the guides are different enough to require relocating the sash on the glass?

I did loosen all of the bolts, and that's how I was able to get a forced fit, and less binding, but it still isnt right.

Now Im wondering if the "LH front", and "LH rear" is in reference to when the regulator has been removed from the door, as opposed to what I did.

Any thoughts on that?

pongagt
07-20-2009, 12:11 AM
I have been having window regulator problems again with my 99 coupe. I replaced the driver's side a couple years ago with a ebay replacement and the wire came out of the motor almost instantly. I ended up using the plastic pieces on the factory regulator. That one broke because the sash came off the window. A couple weeks ago the other sash came off the window and that took out the plastic pieces i had replaced. I replaced that regulator with another ebay one but i kept the factory one just in case. The day after i put the door panel back on, i heard a bad noise from the passenger door. You guessed it, something in the original passenger regulator broke. I ordered a right side regulator from the same place i just bought i just bought the driver's side. Well i opened the regulator box today and found the metal brackets that attach to the window sashes were upside down. I was able to flip one of them but the other one i had to grind off the notch that holds it in and replace the bracket with one off the factory regulator. It bolted up to the door alright but one of the sash holes is a little off like the poster mentioned. I did not bolt it up yet because i noticed that the window goes the opposite direction that it is supposed to. I figure it is totally screwed up or it is the one for the other door in which case i don't know if it will work. I emailed the seller to see if i can switch some of the pins on the connector around. I am thinking about taking the plastic pieces off this one and putting them on the factory regulator which will probably outlive the replacement.

I have learned that you better make sure both of your window sashes are attached real good because if one comes off, it will take out the plastic pieces on the regulator. I like the idea of reinforcing the plastic pieces with glue. I might use the jb weld that i used to attach the sash. I don't know if there is a downside to doing this or if it will help and if the metal brackets need to have a little play in the plastic pieces.

FunkZ
07-20-2009, 10:42 AM
I can't imagine LHF and LHR referring to any orientation other than as the parts sit in the door. Aside from that, if the rear guide is " lower in the track than the front, perhaps the cable stretched? I don't know of any adjustment other than possibly take top and bottom bolts out of the rear track and slot the holes in the door to allow you to raise the track slightly. Or you could try to get the rear sash off the glass and position it with a spacer? Don't know how easy that would be to do though without breaking it.

After the 1st replacement regulator cable jumped out of the drive wheel and got bound up around the motor gear, my 2nd replacement has so far been working okay. I cringe every time I operate the switch however. Thankfully the RockAuto parts carry a lifetime guarantee.

pongagt
07-20-2009, 02:09 PM
I got my passenger side window working by taking the plastic pieces off the ebay replacement regulator and putting them on the factory regulator. I must have got the regulator from the wrong side of the car and it would not bolt up. The rear thread in the window sash was at least 1/2" over the hole in the regulator bracket and there was no way to tilt the window enough to line it up . If rockauto has a lifetime warranty, i will buy them from there anymore. It's pretty crazy why we have to worry about this pita so much. Can you imagine if you had to pay someone to fix this thing.

Billy the Kid
07-20-2009, 06:30 PM
I can't imagine LHF and LHR referring to any orientation other than as the parts sit in the door. Aside from that, if the rear guide is " lower in the track than the front, perhaps the cable stretched? I don't know of any adjustment other than possibly take top and bottom bolts out of the rear track and slot the holes in the door to allow you to raise the track slightly. Or you could try to get the rear sash off the glass and position it with a spacer? Don't know how easy that would be to do though without breaking it.

After the 1st replacement regulator cable jumped out of the drive wheel and got bound up around the motor gear, my 2nd replacement has so far been working okay. I cringe every time I operate the switch however. Thankfully the RockAuto parts carry a lifetime guarantee.

Visualize it.

If you insert the clips from the back of the regulator (as I did, because I didnt remove it), the slots in the clips (where the metal "L" bracket goes) are under the cable bead it snaps into.

If you insert the clips from the front of the regulator, the "L" bracket slots in the clips would be above the cable bead.

The more I think about this (and try to visualize it), the more I think I simply installed them wrong.

Ill have to find the time to check this out soon.

Bill

FunkZ
07-21-2009, 06:39 AM
If rockauto has a lifetime warranty, i will buy them from there anymore.
I should clarify the Sherman regulators on Rock Auto have a lifetime warranty. They are only $32-$35 + shipping. The Dorman regulators (which come with motor) are lifetime warranty too. Advance also sells the Dorman regulators.

*EDIT - use discount code 19978081555961 for an extra 5% off your order. Expires 9/20/09

FunkZ
09-29-2009, 11:48 AM
Well the replacement regulator just failed, in exactly the same way. Cable comes out of the spindle and gets all bound up around the motor gear, window won't go up or down.

I asked RA if they'd let me sub a different mfgr, even if I have to pay the difference, but they claim they've sold dozens of this particular part and only ever taken 3 back for failure. Not sure if I'm just unlucky or if for some reason my car is causing them to fail. The glass slides up/down easily enough in the tracks, can't imagine any other reason for the cable to get bound up other than a mfgr defect.

Good thing for the warranty but paying the return shipping is going to get ridiculous if I have to keep replacing these every 1-3 months.

pongagt
09-29-2009, 01:30 PM
Well the replacement regulator just failed, in exactly the same way. Cable comes out of the spindle and gets all bound up around the motor gear, window won't go up or down.

I asked RA if they'd let me sub a different mfgr, even if I have to pay the difference, but they claim they've sold dozens of this particular part and only ever taken 3 back for failure. Not sure if I'm just unlucky or if for some reason my car is causing them to fail. The glass slides up/down easily enough in the tracks, can't imagine any other reason for the cable to get bound up other than a mfgr defect.

Good thing for the warranty but paying the return shipping is going to get ridiculous if I have to keep replacing these every 1-3 months.

The exact thing happened to one of my replacement regulators. I ended up taking the plastic pieces off and using them on my original regulator. Never throw the original regulators away. The non-dealer replacements are junk. Only the clips are useful. Make sure your window sashes are firmly attached to the glass. Every time one broke off for me if took out my plastic clips and continued this nightmare with a car that i otherwise have no complaints about.

FunkZ
09-29-2009, 03:01 PM
Yup I wish now I had kept my original regulator with the broken clips, I'd try my hand at swapping them.

pongagt
09-29-2009, 07:49 PM
Yup I wish now I had kept my original regulator with the broken clips, I'd try my hand at swapping them.

It's not the easiest thing to do but i have done all of mine without breaking one. They slide in at the end of the tracks. I have a rockauto warehouse a couple miles from me so it wouldn't be hard for me to keep returning them.

edindial
10-20-2009, 06:24 PM
I have had some difficulty replacing the window guides on my 99 GAGT drivers side window. The left L bracket is sitting about 2-3 inches higher than the right side of the regulator. Only one side actually hooks on the guide and I am afraid to force and break the clip or plastic regulator guide. Earlier on I read that loosening the bolts on the regulator may help force the window on to the guides. Any other options or steps that my help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
ED
99GAGT

THEEMUTT
10-20-2009, 07:00 PM
Forgive me as I completely skimmed this post... But for what you need:
I have spare clips for the Drivers regulator (the white ones along with the metal mount's) - It's what you need to fix it cheap without buying a regulator

BUT.. The window mount (black piece bolted to regulator mount) is not suppose to slide off of the window. You can try to glue it back on with window silicone (body tech will know the exact name) But in a shop we would just replace the window.

76TA01GAGT
01-23-2010, 04:15 PM
What I did with both of my windows when they failed:

I bought new $47 regulators on eBay and immediately put a bunch of gorilla glue inside of the plastic pieces everywhere while making sure not to get any on the track or anything. I kept checking back every hour and I pressured the foam that the glue was causing in and it created a nice hard and rock solid block that has been flawless for over a year. I hear sometimes that the ebay regulator motors fail so keep your old one just in case.


Anyone have a parts numbers or who the person selling on Ebay was? My son and I heard the dreaded "crack" as the window would not come back up, we now have a handful of the white plastic pieces........

daxx
01-24-2010, 10:40 AM
You guys make me feel a little better about my GA. I'm running around with three of the four window regulators broken right now - both fronts (already replaced with GM regulators and have broke again) and the passenger rear (original fitment). Only the drivers rear window is working, and that was replaced with a non-GM part five years ago and is still working fine. Going to be hitting up A1Electric again when spring gets here - not buying any more GM window parts.

Funny thing is, the original front ones failed about a month apart, and the replacements *also* failed about a month apart... conspiracy? Hmmm....

bigray122
06-16-2010, 01:47 PM
Forgive me as I completely skimmed this post... But for what you need:
I have spare clips for the Drivers regulator (the white ones along with the metal mount's) - It's what you need to fix it cheap without buying a regulator

BUT.. The window mount (black piece bolted to regulator mount) is not suppose to slide off of the window. You can try to glue it back on with window silicone (body tech will know the exact name) But in a shop we would just replace the window.

Okay, here is the deal. Called Dealer by my house. The 22 & 23 part number are supposed to be what are needed for my coupe drivers door. That said, Rockauto.com has both the guides (45348 & 45349) and the actual window clips part # 38480 that bolt to the metal and attach the window.

Sure would be nice to see an actual step-by step on this....

CrimsonGT
06-17-2010, 07:01 PM
Sure would be nice to see an actual step-by step on this....

http://www.a1electric.com/grandam.htm

Hope this helps you i just had the drivers side on mine replaced not long ago.

OH2GT
01-19-2013, 07:15 PM
Freakin awesome CrimsonGT. That's exactly what I needed! You rock!