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aiixon
08-23-2009, 01:12 AM
Known problems: Cylinder 1 misfire. Major/quick overheating. Temperature gauge not working. Gas gauge not working. Coolant loss (Internal?? Whatever doesn't disappear quickly shoots out the overflow hose once it gets hot after a few minutes.) Steamy/smokey exhaust. Rough Idle. HVAC doesn't control the temperature of heat/cold that comes out.


So I did a compression test on all the cylinders. Results:

1 - 175
2 - 187
3 - 197
4 - 182
5 - 190
6 - 173

I noticed that upon removal of the spark plug from cylinder 1 that there was a lot of some kind of liquid on it, looked like oil. So I put it in a cup of water and half of the liquid just kind of dissolved away, so I'm assuming it had water in it?? Another thing I noticed is that when I was holding the key for the starter to crank, the back cylinders (1, 3 , 5) try to crank faster and more consistently than the front ones.
I can't find the specs on cylinder compression so what are the ranges?? Also does anyone have any input on tests to do or what the problem is if they have experienced this?

aiixon
08-23-2009, 02:07 PM
bump

aiixon
08-23-2009, 02:11 PM
and i know thermostat would explain at least a couple of those symptoms, if not more..

BMOBYLE
08-23-2009, 07:48 PM
sounds like a horrible lower intake gasket leak. compression could still be good but coolant would just fly into the motor. what does it look like around that LIM? usually coolant flying out of the res bottle means the coolant is being pressurized by the motor. older dodges are notorius for this. got a coolant system/pressure tester? can rent one from local autozone but they must have the right adapter for the 3.4L's and i believe you gotta crimp off that side hose there when you do it(drain hose).

oh and check oil dipstick see if there is coolant in it. depending on how severe that leak is internally it could burn the coolant it as well.(out your exhaust)

Haughee
08-23-2009, 08:10 PM
My older Toyota did close to the same thing. Mine was a bad head gasket around cylinder six. Coolant would seep into the chamber and cause air to get into the Cooling system, and water pump, which then would cause my motor to overheat.

2000 GT Coupe
08-23-2009, 08:57 PM
I believe the compression you list is all within spec. 150 or greater is what gm calls for on this engine I think.

aiixon
08-23-2009, 09:22 PM
im dreading the answer is going to become head gasket like i suspected... im just trying to completely diagnose it to where i have a 100% answer before i spend over $200 on gaskets and head bolts and tear the engine apart...

aiixon
08-24-2009, 04:55 PM
bump

hass
08-25-2009, 02:32 PM
headdd gasket.
or lim.

might as well go to heads while you're there though.


Compression looks fine.
What you generally go by, is that they're all within 10-15% of each other, regardless of motor.
But for real, search. it's all headgasket/lim symptoms.
oil might look milky too.
Or still a light color (as if you just put it in) even after 3k miles, when normally it'd be a darkish black/brown color.
Considering you've been overheating it, it should most likely be black/brown under normal conditions.
But since it's leaking... it's probably not :p

aiixon
08-25-2009, 07:33 PM
could i have warped heads??

KmGADfw
08-28-2009, 06:17 PM
This is most likely a minor head gasket leak or cracked/warped head - nobody can tell until you open it up. If you want to confirm it, do this:

Open the coolant bleed valve and turn on the engine. If coolant shoot out with bubble, then it is most likely head / HG related. If coolant just drip out without air bubble, then it might be the LIM gasket.

How is your oil - clean or milkshake like? When was the last time your spark plug and wires replaced? How many miles on the car?

aiixon
08-28-2009, 10:18 PM
110,000 miles. clean oil. new plugs. stock wires but they provide good voltage.

k ill check on the bleed valve but which one are you talking about???

lone_wolf025
08-28-2009, 10:52 PM
110,000 miles. clean oil. new plugs. stock wires but they provide good voltage.

k ill check on the bleed valve but which one are you talking about???

I think its the one on the black "bar" right above the valve cover.

aiixon
08-28-2009, 11:08 PM
okay is it just a normal valve like you push the pin in?

KhellendrosxS
08-29-2009, 07:07 AM
Youll need a small wrench to turn it.

Just be very careful as it is made of brass and you can round off the edges quite easily.

KmGADfw
08-29-2009, 08:27 PM
110,000 miles. clean oil. new plugs. stock wires but they provide good voltage.

k ill check on the bleed valve but which one are you talking about???

The wire will provide good voltage as long as it is not broken physically, but it will have inconsistent voltage and that will cause misfire and maybe damage to other electronic equipments (i.e.: distributor, alternator) - this is from personal experiences.

The bleed valve is actually a small copper screw in front of the engine, on the left hand (if you look from the front of the car) - this valve is used to bleed air bubble out of the coolant system normally.

aiixon
09-03-2009, 12:01 AM
Replaced thermostat and cleaned all parts around it like MAF sensor, throttle body, air filter, etc..

Problems fixed: Cylinder 1 misfire and associated code/SES light. Steamy exhaust. Heater.

Problems:
- Smoke comes out of the coolant reservoir, tested this with a combustion leak tester kit (Screams head gasket?).
- Overheating
- Temperature gauge not functioning
- Gas gauge not functioning


Overall synopsis: Car runs a lot better now and is very smooth. Only major problem left is coolant overheating way too fast and shooting out of the overflow hose, and also there is exhaust coming out of the coolant tank.

One thing I noticed is that I think my cap for the reservoir isn't sealing correctly unless I push really hard on it with my hand.

So should I just order the head gasket set? Or could it be something else still?

KhellendrosxS
09-03-2009, 04:14 AM
Replace the coolant reservoir cap. Its o-ring is very delicate and can be knicked or broken by cross threading and/or over tightening which does not allow it to seal tight and will result in coolant overflow instead of coolant circulation. Its about a $5 part and should only be tightened as much as the average woman can undo.

KmGADfw
09-03-2009, 06:47 PM
Only major problem left is coolant overheating way too fast and shooting out of the overflow hose, and also there is exhaust coming out of the coolant tank.

One thing I noticed is that I think my cap for the reservoir isn't sealing correctly unless I push really hard on it with my hand.

So should I just order the head gasket set? Or could it be something else still?

This is exactly what happened when I had a minor head gasket leak. I first thought it was the coolant reservoir cap /tank and replace both (which is needed) and the problem still exist. After the head gasket is repaired, the problem went away totally.

aiixon
09-03-2009, 10:50 PM
alright. i'll get that replaced, but that still doesn't account for the smoke coming out of the radiator. head gasket??

Pontiac GIRL
09-04-2009, 07:49 AM
I had to replace all my intake valve cover gaskets because they leaked from that wonderful orange antifreeze (eats gaskets) I also got in on a lawsuit that someone was sueing GM because of this and it paid for my repairs on my car. I would say that is the problem. check your radiator fluid I am sure it has oil in it too. ;-( By the GM still does not want to say this is a problem with the antifreeze. It happened to a truck my bro has and he replaced his gaskets, changed from orange anti freeze back to the green.

RPO3
09-04-2009, 12:26 PM
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Pontiac/Grand_Am/2000/cooling_system/intake_manifold_gasket_failure_coolant_light_is_on .shtml

http://www.dsengine.com/gmgasket/index.html

aiixon
09-09-2009, 11:25 PM
WOT-Tech head gaskets = reusable, correct?

KmGADfw
09-10-2009, 09:59 AM
WOT-Tech head gaskets = reusable, correct?

No, they are not. You have to get new head gasket set (which include all necessary gasket for head gasket replacement, which includes the head gasket and LIM gasket). You can get them from RockAuto for about $180.

Have you done the bleed valve test? Bubbles comes out of it?

aiixon
09-10-2009, 09:19 PM
So if I get that gasket set and do the head gasket swap, I would have to buy a-whole-nother set if I want to take my engine apart again? I can't use that gasket set?? Seems like junk.... How do people even mod their engines...

And no I did not, but I did a combustion leak test and I failed. It's a gasket/head problem, I'm sure now.

KhellendrosxS
09-11-2009, 04:22 AM
So if I get that gasket set and do the head gasket swap, I would have to buy a-whole-nother set if I want to take my engine apart again? I can't use that gasket set?? Seems like junk.... How do people even mod their engines...

And no I did not, but I did a combustion leak test and I failed. It's a gasket/head problem, I'm sure now.


Once gaskets get 'crushed' by the re-torquing of the parts on top of them they are no longer able to provide an adequate seal once the part(s) are removed in the future. That is the way gaskets work unless your gaskets are made of something like aluminum with rubber o-rings (which is done for some throttle bodys nowadays).

Simply put, new gaskets are cheap insurance when installing new parts. You wont find a single gasket for this car that you should be re-using.

When you pull the heads off be sure you send both to a machine shop to have them checked for flatness because if they are warped and you put it back together then you just wasted a ton of money and time.

aiixon
09-11-2009, 03:05 PM
my friends dad owns a machine shop so im sure he will check them out/machine them for free or relatively cheap, but let's say on the off chance he won't do me a favor, how much roughly does it cost?

BOOTMASTER
09-11-2009, 09:32 PM
I payed around 100 for mine to be checked and milled back to flat, and new valve seals while he was at it...

but they were warped, so cheaper if they don't need milled

aiixon
09-12-2009, 10:01 PM
k thanks..