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_MARKZ_
09-21-2009, 11:14 PM
I just hooked up an o2 simulator but the light on the sim did not come on while i turned on the car. I hooked up the red 12v sim wire to a 12v o2 wire(white) but that didnt work. Most common place to hook red wire is to the windshield wiper 12v ignition wire but i couldnt find where it is located(under the engine bay). Any pictures of the wiper wire would help or any help to guide me to where it is easy to access would be appreciated thanks.

AaronGTR
09-22-2009, 10:41 AM
I just hooked up an o2 simulator but the light on the sim did not come on while i turned on the car. I hooked up the red 12v sim wire to a 12v o2 wire(white) but that didnt work. Most common place to hook red wire is to the windshield wiper 12v ignition wire but i couldnt find where it is located(under the engine bay). Any pictures of the wiper wire would help or any help to guide me to where it is easy to access would be appreciated thanks.


What kinda O2 sim are you using? The one I used to have plugged right into the stock harness and didn't need any wiring. But anyway there are four wires for the stock O2 sensor. Heater power (brown), ground (black), sensor signal (purple/white), and sensor return (tan/white). All those should have something hooked to them or the cars computer will throw codes either for the signal or the heater.

I don't know of anywhere the wiper power wire would come from in the engine bay. The main ignition power wire for wipers is on the steering column under the top cover. All the controls/relays/fuses for wipers are inside the car and go through the firewall to the wiper motor.

You shouldn't need to touch that though. If the sim needs ignition power, it should get it from the O2 heater power wire when you turn the car on.

_MARKZ_
09-22-2009, 11:01 AM
What kinda O2 sim are you using? The one I used to have plugged right into the stock harness and didn't need any wiring. But anyway there are four wires for the stock O2 sensor. Heater power (brown), ground (black), sensor signal (purple/white), and sensor return (tan/white). All those should have something hooked to them or the cars computer will throw codes either for the signal or the heater.

I don't know of anywhere the wiper power wire would come from in the engine bay. The main ignition power wire for wipers is on the steering column under the top cover. All the controls/relays/fuses for wipers are inside the car and go through the firewall to the wiper motor.

You shouldn't need to touch that though. If the sim needs ignition power, it should get it from the O2 heater power wire when you turn the car on.

Im using a Magnum Tuning adjustable o2 simulator and just installed a new bosch oxygen sensor with one black ,one grey, and two white wires. The sim has 6 wires total, 4 to connect with all sensor wires, one black to connect to chassis, and one red to connect to 12v ignition source. I tried connecting the red sim wire to one of the white sensor heater wires but maybe it was the wrong one. Ill try the other white wire today. But if that doesnt power the sim do you have any ideas of where else to connect it? Nice car btw Aaron, checked it out on cardomain, i like the body kit n supercharger.

AaronGTR
09-22-2009, 11:36 AM
Im using a Magnum Tuning adjustable o2 simulator and just installed a new bosch oxygen sensor with one black ,one grey, and two white wires. The sim has 6 wires total, 4 to connect with all sensor wires, one black to connect to chassis, and one red to connect to 12v ignition source. I tried connecting the red sim wire to one of the white sensor heater wires but maybe it was the wrong one. Ill try the other white wire today. But if that doesnt power the sim do you have any ideas of where else to connect it? Nice car btw Aaron, checked it out on cardomain, i like the body kit n supercharger.


Hmm, never seen one of those sims. If you installed a new bosch O2 sensor what are you doing with the sim then? The sim is supposed to hook to the stock harness in place of the sensor when you get rid of the rear O2 sensor (post cat). In that case you'd be hooking it to the factory harness and using the wire colors I gave you. You just take the sensor out then and put a plug in the bung. Shouldn't be hooking a sim to a sensor for any reason, and can't use a sim for the front sensor. It runs the car. :)

That's weird they have six wires for the sim since it would already have power and ground for the sensor.

_MARKZ_
09-22-2009, 11:58 AM
"If you installed a new bosch O2 sensor what are you doing with the sim then? Shouldn't be hooking a sim to a sensor for any reason, and can't use a sim for the front sensor. It runs the car. :) "

I need the sim for ses light(no cat). I kind of ruined my other sensor by actually cutting the wires and misplacing them;crap so i bought a new oxygen sensor (post or rear) and you said it hooks up to the stock harness(from engine to sensor harness im guessing) but cant you hook it up to the sensor harness(one piece-harness to sensor)? See my sim doesnt have a harness that you can just plug in easy, it has wires you have to splice onto the sensor wires. So am i doing it wrong? Im pretty sure you can connect the sim after the harness and im hooking up the sim to the 2nd o2 sensor, its just that the sim isnt getting any power(12v).

Heres instructions to a simulator similar to mine but with less wires. The wiring is from the sensor to the harness.

AaronGTR
09-22-2009, 01:56 PM
"If you installed a new bosch O2 sensor what are you doing with the sim then? Shouldn't be hooking a sim to a sensor for any reason, and can't use a sim for the front sensor. It runs the car. :) "

I need the sim for ses light(no cat). I kind of ruined my other sensor by actually cutting the wires and misplacing them;crap so i bought a new oxygen sensor (post or rear) and you said it hooks up to the stock harness(from engine to sensor harness im guessing) but cant you hook it up to the sensor harness(one piece-harness to sensor)? See my sim doesnt have a harness that you can just plug in easy, it has wires you have to splice onto the sensor wires. So am i doing it wrong? Im pretty sure you can connect the sim after the harness and im hooking up the sim to the 2nd o2 sensor, its just that the sim isnt getting any power(12v).

Heres instructions to a simulator similar to mine but with less wires. The wiring is from the sensor to the harness.

The problem is you are trying to splice it into the sensor wiring while leaving the sensor in place. The wiring diagram they have there is not the correct way to draw an electrical diagram so it is hard to understand. The proper way to do this though is to completely eliminate the rear O2 sensor. You wasted your money buying another one. The sim should just be wired directly to the wire harness on the car (the one going to the engine computer).

Of course, the real easy way to do this is just buy a tuned pcm with the sensor codes turned off. Then you don't even need a sim and you won't get any check engine lights. You do know getting rid of the cat was a waste of time too right? You aren't going to see much gain from it.

_MARKZ_
09-22-2009, 02:15 PM
The problem is you are trying to splice it into the sensor wiring while leaving the sensor in place. The wiring diagram they have there is not the correct way to draw an electrical diagram so it is hard to understand. The proper way to do this though is to completely eliminate the rear O2 sensor. You wasted your money buying another one. The sim should just be wired directly to the wire harness on the car (the one going to the engine computer).

Of course, the real easy way to do this is just buy a tuned pcm with the sensor codes turned off. Then you don't even need a sim and you won't get any check engine lights. You do know getting rid of the cat was a waste of time too right? You aren't going to see much gain from it.

I know removing the cat was stupid, i learned the hard way. With the SES light on it seemed as if i was running rich and lost power. The exhaust shop talked me into it lol. They said my cold air intake, no cat, with my cat-back exhaust would be the best combination. Overall though, my car is ALOT faster than it was stock. But back to the thread, i just switched my red sim wire to the other white oxygen sensor heater wire and Wahlah the blue LED light came on, on the sim. Car seemed to run smoother but SES light is still on. While working on the car i had the battery disconnected for about 15 min, but usually i leave it off for longer(like 40 min) and SES light turns off. I had to go back to work right after so i couldnt leave the battery off for too long. Will the SES light go off by itself if sim is working properly after a few cycles or will i have to disconnect battery to reset code and wait to see if it comes back on?

AaronGTR
09-22-2009, 06:48 PM
Yeah, with the cat removed and the rear sensor not working the pcm may mess with the fuel and ignition timing because the cat's an emissions control device and the pcm thinks something is wrong with it so... I usually recommend a high flow cat to people looking for an upgrade but you don't even see the most gain from it until you get headers because the stock exhaust manifolds are the most restrictive part. :)

For your question about the SES light, if t he sim is now working properly then yes the light will turn itself off after several driving cycles without detecting a problem. It will keep the codes stored in the pcm for quite a bit longer but those will eventually disappear too. Or you can go to an auto parts store and borrow their OBD2 scanner and have the codes cleared. Either way.

_MARKZ_
09-23-2009, 09:50 AM
Thanks for your input. Im going to get the SES code cleared today and see if it reappears after a few driving cycles but i have another question. Since my simulator is adjustable and allows the user to adjust the signal coming from the sensor(meaning it allows you to run richer than factory settings), should i try running richer with my upgrades or should i keep my factory setting signal? Or which is better to be running(with intake and cat-back exhaust), rich or stoich?

AaronGTR
09-23-2009, 11:44 AM
Thanks for your input. Im going to get the SES code cleared today and see if it reappears after a few driving cycles but i have another question. Since my simulator is adjustable and allows the user to adjust the signal coming from the sensor(meaning it allows you to run richer than factory settings), should i try running richer with my upgrades or should i keep my factory setting signal? Or which is better to be running(with intake and cat-back exhaust), rich or stoich?


That sensor has nothing to do with fuel adjustment. It only tells the pcm that the cat is working. If there's an adjustment on it, it should only be to adjust the output to the correct setting for the post cat sensor. IE the computer looks for a voltage signal between a certain range to tell that there is no oxygen left in the exhaust and the catalytic converter is burning everything up, so that signal should stay pretty close to the same range.

The front O2 sensor signal has to go up and down with changes in the air/fuel ratio so that it can adjust fueling. You can't use a sim on it because it can't stay at a constant state, and you want it to be accurate. Also the O2 sensor only adjusts fueling below 70% throttle so it won't make any difference for your mods.

_MARKZ_
09-23-2009, 11:51 AM
That sensor has nothing to do with fuel adjustment. It only tells the pcm that the cat is working. If there's an adjustment on it, it should only be to adjust the output to the correct setting for the post cat sensor. IE the computer looks for a voltage signal between a certain range to tell that there is no oxygen left in the exhaust and the catalytic converter is burning everything up, so that signal should stay pretty close to the same range.

The front O2 sensor signal has to go up and down with changes in the air/fuel ratio so that it can adjust fueling. You can't use a sim on it because it can't stay at a constant state, and you want it to be accurate. Also the O2 sensor only adjusts fueling below 70% throttle so it won't make any difference for your mods.

I see, cool thanks for clearing that up for me. All i want is for my car to run at full pontential with no error codes. Thanks again for all your help man. I hope that the simulator will do its job and keep the SES light off.