Rough spec for toe on front wheels? [Archive] - Forum


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09-30-2009, 08:15 PM
I gotta replace a tie-rod end and I'm debating if I wanna be cheap and get a rough idea of the toe or if I should just bite the bullet and pay for an alignment. I know that anytime you do suspension work you should get it aligned but its just toe here. I'd rather not dish out $70 for a tech to tighten the rod by a couple turns and say its good to go.

So roughly what's the spec in something I can measure? Are our cars spec'd to be toe-in or toe-out?

Mike Jung
09-30-2009, 09:05 PM
I don't know it this helps, but here is one of my alignments.

How do these read outs look ?

Left Front:
Camber (0.7 to -1.3) = -0.5
Caster (5.2 to 3.2) = 4.6
Toe (-0.05 to 0.15) = 0.05

Right Front:
Camber (-1.3 to 0.7) = -0.6
Caster (3.2 to 5.2) = 4.6
Toe (0.15 to -0.05) = 0.06

Total Toe (-0.10 to 0.30) = 0.11
Steer Ahead (-0.05 to 0.05) = -0.01

Left Rear:
Camber (0.5 to -1.1) = -0.5
Toe (-0.08 to 0.13) = -0.01

Right Rear:
Camber (-1.1 to 0.5) = -0.6
Toe (0.13 to -0.08) = 0.02

Total Toe (-0.15 to 0.25) = 0.01
Thrust Angle (-0.20 to 0.20) = -0.02

I would get the alignment done after the tie rods are changed.

09-30-2009, 09:34 PM
Yea...that's an awfully small amount of toe.

09-30-2009, 09:38 PM
Supposed to be close to zero for a factory alignment.

09-30-2009, 10:31 PM
Actually you're supposed to have some positive toe in both wheels on a FWD car.

When you've moving the wheels actualy toe-out a bit. So the small amount of toe-in when stationary helps to offset this. I usually align FWD cars to +0.10 degrees of toe on each front wheel. Never had a problem.

Toe is so hard to measure accurately you should just buck up and pay for an alignment.

Edit: Actually the front wheels on all vehicles toe-out a little bit when moving. So yeah, a little toe-in while sitting still is a good thing. Helps with straight line stability.