Tierod end install question [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum


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11-06-2009, 08:27 PM
Shame on me for even having to ask this.

Just replaced the tierod end on my car. I couldn't remember how tight to make the castle nut, so as a few people suggested, I cranked it down tight (60ft-lbs or more maybe?) and noticed the hole for the cotter pin was significantly higher than the top of the castle nut. Does this make sense? I've replaced a few tie-rod ends before and they were never like that. Any thoughts?

11-07-2009, 02:31 AM
Out of curiousty, how difficult/time consuming is replacing one in your own garage? Reason being I will be attempting doing my left side myself soon.

11-07-2009, 02:07 PM
OP: You're going to have to remove the castle nut and separate the tie rod from the knuckle again. Hopefully you didn't damage the knuckle by tightening it down that much. When reinstalled just make sure that the tie rod isn't loose in the knuckle from side to side.

When putting on tie rods that use castle nuts, I always tighten it down until its good and tight with a wrench. Just make sure that the notch in the castle nut is flush with or slightly lower than the hole in the tie rod. Also make sure its lined up. After that you're good.

2nd poster: Replacing an outer tie rod is a 15 minute job. Its the alignment that you NEED to do afterwards that's the killer. Sure you can count the number of turns when removing the old tie rod but that's not as accurate as having it aligned. Seeing how toe is the alignment angle that causes the greatest amount of tire wear I'd have it aligned.