Replace both Idler Pulleys 3.4L [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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AuroraGuy
11-18-2009, 10:11 AM
On my 00 GAGT 3.4L motor, I am replacing the serpentine belt and was wondering since i am in there, if it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace the $15 idler pullys.

I got a squeak/squeal and I am sure it's one of them and the car has 81K on it.

Anyone know if they are reverse thread and/or the torque for the replacement pullys?

eBandit
11-18-2009, 10:28 AM
I got mine for about $12, but have had to change both of them under warranty within a year already.

I don't remember them being reverse thread, but I would have to check to be certain.

When I did my Tensioner pulley I went ahead and did the belt (needed it anyway) and both idler pulleys. After I took them off I could tell that one didn't feel smooth when I spun it so good thing I checked them. I replaced both but kept the one that seemed OK and sit it aside.

I'm sure someone on here know more, so I am curious to know if the aftermarket ones are not near the quality of the factory ones are. Might be why mine have had to be warrantied?

I didn't know the toque and my manual didn't say (has ranges for various bolt sizes listed).

AaronGTR
11-18-2009, 04:54 PM
They are normal threaded. Replacing the tensioner is definitely a good idea too. Stock ones tend to go bad after a while and sometimes the casing around the spring cracks and causes a rattling noise. I use an aftermarket dayco brand tensioner on mine and it's casing design and spring are much stronger.

rocketfast123
11-19-2009, 12:43 PM
I would go ahead and do it. Those plastic idler pulleys snap right right off the bolt when they go bad. It starts off as a grinding sound when the motor is cold.

eBandit
11-19-2009, 09:14 PM
I sure didn't like the design of the replacement tensioner pulley I bought though.

The arm is made so that it comes closer to the body so that I was no longer able to use a ratchet to put into the 3/8" drive slot on it. When I did my a/c compressor I was able to just use a wrench from below cause it has that tab or whatever on the lower part, but when I went to change a idler pulley under warranty I made my own 3/8" drive breaker bar that was less deep than a ratchet or breaker bar and it works just fine now. Just cut off the end of a cheap Harbor Freight impact extension and welded it to a piece of flat stock.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/9708/img1664w.jpg