Re-attaching rear defroster tab [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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WhiteyGAGT
02-01-2010, 01:56 AM
Recently I found that my rear defrost wasnt working. The light came on but it didnt help the window. Today I took a more detailed look and found that the driver side tab has come off.
My question is, can I make it as simple as soldering it back on or do I need to do a more extensive repair and get the kit? I want to spend as little as possible since Im not big on bucks right now but I want it done right of course.
So, please provide me with sufficient knowledge on whether or not its advisable to solder it back on or not.
Thanks in advance.

GA2000GTSpeed
02-01-2010, 02:50 AM
well is the metal part broken? or did it completely come off the window??? If it completely came off i'm pretty sure that places like Autozone has the glue for it, if the metal tab broke... well im not really sure lol

Mike Jung
02-01-2010, 08:12 AM
Also, you can try taking it to an auto glass place.

Saber326
02-01-2010, 02:49 PM
the problem is that the factory solder joint breaks. just solder it back and it will work fine. i have had this happen to me and this fixed it. good luck with the repair!

Undersexed
02-01-2010, 03:43 PM
Looking at fixing both sides in my cousin's GA and wondering the best way to go too... Called the glass shops around here and no one does it, but one guy said to place it back in place and put some JB Weld on it, but I don't know about that... I've also heard that if you don't solder it correctly and apply too much heat for too much time, you can risk shattering the rear glass, so... still looking around for the best method here also...

AaronGTR
02-01-2010, 08:20 PM
You could probably do it with a butane torch since it will heat up the solder quickly and you don't have to leave it on the glass long. I solder everything with a torch now 'cause it's so much easier. I definitely wouldn't use an electric gun on it.

WhiteyGAGT
02-01-2010, 11:28 PM
did it completely come off the window??? if the metal tab broke... well im not really sure lol
I believe it just came off. Its like.... the plate (for lack of better words) it still there but the piece thats black with another metal prong type thing attached to is it hanging freely.


As far as soldering goes, Ive never had any experience with soldering around glass but I have a few hours of soldering in my computer maintenance class my senior year of high school (last year) and I did pretty good with that so Im fairly confident in my abilities. Ill check up for any further advice.

Saber326
02-08-2010, 01:15 PM
If yours broke like min did, there will still be a metal surface attached to the window.

1) put a peice of cardboard under the operation site in case any solder drips it wont burn the carpet on the rear deck.
2) spread a tiny amount of flux on both surfaces to be joined.
3) place your soldering wire between the mounting surface and the tab.
4) put the soldering iron on top of the middle of the tab being sure not to apply too much pressure. this will heat up the tab enough until the tab itself melts the solder.
5) if needed, you can keep feeding soldering wire into the joint, as the capilliary action will suck the molten solder between the joint. be sure not to apply too much pressure as this will reduce the amount of capillary action.
6) once soldering is complete, use something to hold the tab in place while you remove the soldering tip.
7) wait about 15-30 seconds for the solder to cool then stop holding the tab, and the bond is made.

and also, there is no freaking way the window is going to crack from the heat. use a soldering iron or gun. do not use a torch.


/ /
/ / - soldering tip
/_/
====== - tab
~ ~ ~ -flux
----------------------------------soldering wire
~ ~ ~ -flux
====== - metal surface on window

WhiteyGAGT
02-08-2010, 06:49 PM
My dad asked someone and he said we can also use super glue or something. Will that work?

WidbyJ
02-08-2010, 09:29 PM
Super glue WILL NOT work properly. It acts as an insulator. You need the eletricity, quite a lot actually, to get through as easily as possible. The soldering Iron is the only good solution, no flames. Soldering on glass is perfectly fine, that's how I make stained glass windows...

Laser57
02-10-2010, 07:11 AM
If the metal prong on the window is still attached and the plug is just hanging there then just plug the black plug back onto the metal prong on the rear window. It snaps on and off because I unpluged it when I tinted my back window.

stonemason90
02-12-2010, 10:40 AM
If yours broke like min did, there will still be a metal surface attached to the window.

1) put a peice of cardboard under the operation site in case any solder drips it wont burn the carpet on the rear deck.
2) spread a tiny amount of flux on both surfaces to be joined.
3) place your soldering wire between the mounting surface and the tab.
4) put the soldering iron on top of the middle of the tab being sure not to apply too much pressure. this will heat up the tab enough until the tab itself melts the solder.
5) if needed, you can keep feeding soldering wire into the joint, as the capilliary action will suck the molten solder between the joint. be sure not to apply too much pressure as this will reduce the amount of capillary action.
6) once soldering is complete, use something to hold the tab in place while you remove the soldering tip.
7) wait about 15-30 seconds for the solder to cool then stop holding the tab, and the bond is made.

and also, there is no freaking way the window is going to crack from the heat. use a soldering iron or gun. do not use a torch.


/ /
/ / - soldering tip
/_/
====== - tab
~ ~ ~ -flux
----------------------------------soldering wire
~ ~ ~ -flux
====== - metal surface on window

i have a similar problem but the plate thing actually came unattached from the glass. is the soldering method that your reffering to for this problem?

edit... or is it to re attach the wire to the metal plate?

stonemason90
02-12-2010, 10:41 AM
also if you put a wet rag on the outside of the glass it should soak up some of the heat if your that worried about it.

Saber326
02-26-2010, 12:59 PM
the method i mentioned was to attach the tab back to the plate. the plate attached to the window is also attached to the wires going through the rear window. so if it came off, im afraid u will have a pretty tough time getting your defroster to work again. this is going to take some precision soldering if that is the case. The plate will need to be connected to the wires again. if you are not experienced at soldering, take it to a shop to get it fixed.

stonemason90
02-26-2010, 06:52 PM
the method i mentioned was to attach the tab back to the plate. the plate attached to the window is also attached to the wires going through the rear window. so if it came off, im afraid u will have a pretty tough time getting your defroster to work again. this is going to take some precision soldering if that is the case. The plate will need to be connected to the wires again. if you are not experienced at soldering, take it to a shop to get it fixed.

so what would i do? lay a line of solder connecting all the wires, then solder the plate back on?

Saber326
03-01-2010, 10:05 AM
i think the best thing you can do would be to post some good pics of the broken connection. it would be much easier to help you after that.

stonemason90
03-01-2010, 06:05 PM
http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b456/mickell122590/Photo-0213.jpg

thats what broke off...

edit: please bare with me i took it with my phone my actual camera is broken...

datencio
03-03-2010, 12:57 AM
Mine did the Exact thing. Don't mess around with soldering ,wet rags and such.

Go to Carquest and for 9 bucks you can buy the adhesive specifically designed for reattaching the defroster foot. You must use adhesive that is impregnated with a conductive material. The adhesive from carquest is pre-mixed and impregnated with copper. The procedure is pretty much sailor proof and you won't have to worry about damaging the defroster wireways or breaking your rear window.

10 minutes to apply, give it at least 24 hrs to cure before turning on your defroster.

We all want to save money but in this case a couple of bucks are well spent.

datencio
03-03-2010, 01:07 AM
Here is a photo of mine before I repaired it. I repaired it about 2 years ago and no problems.

1HOT SE
03-03-2010, 01:27 AM
I had the exact same thing happen to my GA. I bought this bondable appoxy stuff in a small pouch (size of a quater) that has silver flakes in it. This "rear window defrost tab repair kit" is specifically designed for this. The pouch has a hardener in it and you mash the whole package to activate. It is like a glue but it is metal conductive. cut a small hole in the pouch, apply a small amount -no too much- to the applicator and re-attach tab. You can pick this up at Canadain Tire stores, Part source, NAPA, ...I guess in the US it is AutoZone or something. I had recieved Quotes at a windshield repair shop that wanted $80-90 to fix. This repair kit was around $6

Saber326
03-05-2010, 08:33 PM
that is the problem that occurs. use the method i mentioned earlier to solder it back in place. the metal plate is still attached to the window. the conductive epoxy stuff sounds like it may be a bit easier. solder is basically free though for the amount it would take to do this job.

datencio
03-06-2010, 02:38 AM
Soldering would be less expensive if you already have the iron, solder and flux.

The trouble you run into is if you are not proficient at soldering, you can really botch it.

I wouldn't be too concerned about glass damage because you would have to leave the soldering iron on for quite awhile to affect the glass. It's the wire-way that would take the abuse from overheating. You could delaminate it from the glass or melt it to the point where you no longer have a viable place to solder to.

My experience? 30 years electronics technician and micro miniature repair.

stonemason90
03-06-2010, 09:33 PM
Soldering would be less expensive if you already have the iron, solder and flux.

The trouble you run into is if you are not proficient at soldering, you can really botch it.

I wouldn't be too concerned about glass damage because you would have to leave the soldering iron on for quite awhile to affect the glass. It's the wire-way that would take the abuse from overheating. You could delaminate it from the glass or melt it to the point where you no longer have a viable place to solder to.

My experience? 30 years electronics technician and micro miniature repair.

i just thought of something... i have tinted windows. could the heat melt the tint?

Saber326
03-08-2010, 03:22 PM
they should not have tinted over this area. if you look close enough with good light, you can probably see the edge of the tint. the plate shouldnt get hot enough to melt the surrounding tint, especially if you use flux and get it done fast. if you let the iron sit on there forever, then its a possibility.

stonemason90
03-08-2010, 06:49 PM
they should not have tinted over this area. if you look close enough with good light, you can probably see the edge of the tint. the plate shouldnt get hot enough to melt the surrounding tint, especially if you use flux and get it done fast. if you let the iron sit on there forever, then its a possibility.

actually when the guy had the tints done they cut the tint off almost flush with the inside trim and he cut it almost on the plate like theres probably a mm between the plate and the tint. its not cling on tint btw... its real glued on tints, so you see why i dont wanna mess it up....theyre expensive to have fixed....

Saber326
03-09-2010, 10:03 AM
sounds like your best bet is the conductive epoxy. you could also take a razor blade and remove some of the unneeded tint covering the plate. Thats if you are worried about melting if you do decide to solder it.

stonemason90
03-09-2010, 08:26 PM
sounds like your best bet is the conductive epoxy. you could also take a razor blade and remove some of the unneeded tint covering the plate. Thats if you are worried about melting if you do decide to solder it.

i might use the epoxy because a friend of mine just bought a pack of it for his defogger that just broke off so i might just use whats left over from what he has.

nolimit
10-14-2011, 01:04 PM
Afternoon Gentlemen, I too discovered that my passenger side rear defroster tab was broke off. I came here and read around and decided to choose the Epoxy method made by Permatex. My local store is O'reily. I went in and ordered the $13 epoxy followed directions like it said. Instead of the 24 hr set time. I waited a week. It was cool this morning so a great time to try out the repair to see if it worked. Nope, still the same.. apparently if one side don't work neither will the other? The rear defroster light comes on but the window doesn't clear up on either side. Any suggestions ??

bricooper78
10-14-2011, 10:07 PM
drive fast enough nothing catches you from behind????

idk man, i just popped mine off while cleaning my back window (i know, hulk smash!) today, and now my hopes are dashed..
i'll let ya know if that stuff fixes mine, i'm probably going to go nab a tube tomorrow or sunday