Problems after LIM change. [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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sqdman12
04-11-2010, 12:55 PM
Okay, so i have done some searching and cannnot find any information. I just replaced my LIM gasket. Got everthing back together and started it...Now I have a loud knocking. i have a feeling i might of mixed one of my rods up. i had everthing layed out and marked but some how i still must of mixed them up. So 2 questions.

1. Can i get to the rods just by pulling the valve covers to remove and inspect them, and

2. what are the order that they should be in, i know you have intake rods and exhaust rods. Anyone have a layout??;crap.

thanks in advance.

PS. I let my ex drive this car for about 30,000 miles, I dont think she ever changed the oil from what i seen. I got most of it out and cleaned what i could. Hope that it is not was is causing the Knocking noise

2000 GT Coupe
04-11-2010, 01:32 PM
You can get them just by pulling valve covers, however try torquing the rocker arms down to proper specs first. Though if you bent one of the push rods you might be SOL.

Also if you mixed up the order you may be SOL as well, buy a new set.

sqdman12
04-11-2010, 01:44 PM
You can get them just by pulling valve covers, however try torquing the rocker arms down to proper specs first. Though if you bent one of the push rods you might be SOL.

Also if you mixed up the order you may be SOL as well, buy a new set.

I know that they are tight, i went over them twice. So i will pull them and inspect them i guess and see whats going on. Is there anywhere that I can referance what rods go there?

2000 GT Coupe
04-11-2010, 07:37 PM
I know that they are tight, i went over them twice. So i will pull them and inspect them i guess and see whats going on. Is there anywhere that I can referance what rods go there?

Just being tight is not enough, they have to be torqued to the correct amount. as too tight will cause binding and possibly valve not seating.
New ones can go in any spot only after breaking in do they need to go back to the same spot they came out of. IF you do not have which went where clearly marked I do not know of a way to find which was where.

2000 GT Coupe
04-11-2010, 07:39 PM
Damn it looks like you poured tar in there.

AaronGTR
04-11-2010, 09:38 PM
Just being tight is not enough, they have to be torqued to the correct amount. as too tight will cause binding and possibly valve not seating.
New ones can go in any spot only after breaking in do they need to go back to the same spot they came out of. IF you do not have which went where clearly marked I do not know of a way to find which was where.


That's not really going to make a difference on these cars, as far as putting them back in the exact same place. With the hydraulic lifters and oiling and whatnot they get very little wear and don't really "wear in" to one specific location. If you put one exhaust pushrod in another exhaust place, it's not like your engine is going to blow up. You just have to make sure you put the correct length in the right place. Also being that they are pedestal mount and self adjusting, getting them too tight it's very doubtful they would bind or hold the valve open. It's not going to go any lower than the mating surface on the head. You might strip the hole in the aluminum head though. The main purpose for the torque spec is to make sure they are tight enough to not come loose but not so tight you strip the hole.


To the OP, the exhaust push rods are longer than the intakes. If you are standing at the front of the car facing the engine...
From left to right on the front cylinder bank is: exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, intake, exhuast.
From left to right on the rear cylinder bank is: exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust.



oh yeah, and your ex is retarded. Everyone knows car have to have oil changed. That **** looks nasty! I'd be cleaning out as much of that as possible (I'd pull the heads if time/money isn't an issue) then rebuild and run with some cheap oil and seafoam through it a couple times to clean it out, then put some good oil back in.

2000 GT Coupe
04-11-2010, 09:57 PM
good to know Aaron, I would still be careful to not mistake them if possible. How much longer are the exhaust ones do you know. when I had mine out I did not look at them very closely.

AaronGTR
04-11-2010, 10:31 PM
They are noticeably longer. About a quarter inch or so. I think the intakes are like 5.7" and the exhaust are 6".

sqdman12
04-12-2010, 10:16 AM
That's not really going to make a difference on these cars, as far as putting them back in the exact same place. With the hydraulic lifters and oiling and whatnot they get very little wear and don't really "wear in" to one specific location. If you put one exhaust pushrod in another exhaust place, it's not like your engine is going to blow up. You just have to make sure you put the correct length in the right place. Also being that they are pedestal mount and self adjusting, getting them too tight it's very doubtful they would bind or hold the valve open. It's not going to go any lower than the mating surface on the head. You might strip the hole in the aluminum head though. The main purpose for the torque spec is to make sure they are tight enough to not come loose but not so tight you strip the hole.


To the OP, the exhaust push rods are longer than the intakes. If you are standing at the front of the car facing the engine...
From left to right on the front cylinder bank is: exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust, intake, exhuast.
From left to right on the rear cylinder bank is: exhaust, intake, exhaust, intake, intake, exhaust.



oh yeah, and your ex is retarded. Everyone knows car have to have oil changed. That **** looks nasty! I'd be cleaning out as much of that as possible (I'd pull the heads if time/money isn't an issue) then rebuild and run with some cheap oil and seafoam through it a couple times to clean it out, then put some good oil back in..



I can't remember what the spec were, but I followed the book and used the tourqe specs. Thanks for the layout. I'm gonna try to just pull them from the valve covers and inspect them and see what's up. I wiped out all the sludge that I could get to. Could that be clogging one of the lifters? Also, what could I run through there to help clear that out??

Mike Jung
04-12-2010, 12:40 PM
...Also, what could I run through there to help clear that out??
So people on BITOG forum swear by: http://www.auto-rx.com

PhantomLover007
04-12-2010, 12:57 PM
Did you use the Haynes manuals? Supposedly, some of the torque specs in the book are off on certain items from what I've heard..

zukiracer19
04-12-2010, 01:12 PM
that motor looks like it got neglected... lol

SSRacer
04-12-2010, 02:49 PM
I had the same thing happen when I did mine. took it to the dealer and they said I needed new lifters.

Well after the face I realized what could have happened was some coolant that ran out when removing the LIM could have gotten into the lifter valley and clogged a lifter's oiling passage.

sqdman12
04-12-2010, 03:10 PM
Did you use the Haynes manuals? Supposedly, some of the torque specs in the book are off on certain items from what I've heard..



I had a haynes manual for back up and mainly used the LIM walkthrough from the fourm. I used the specs from the walk through.

As for the engine being neglected, my ex said she always changed the oil at the shop up the street from her. Too bad they never had a record of the car going there. So that would make it about 30k without an oil change. Im hopking to pull the rods this weekend to see whats up. come to think about the knocking sound. I did get it once or twice before i started working on it when I was driving it. It just wasnt this loud and went away after a few min.

PhantomLover007
04-12-2010, 03:28 PM
as for the engine being neglected, my ex said she always changed the oil at the shop up the street from her. Too bad they never had a record of the car going there. So that would make it about 30k without an oil change.

ouch!!!!

sqdman12
04-12-2010, 08:51 PM
ouch is an understatement