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black02gt
09-17-2010, 03:39 PM
put new starter and ign switch in and still will not do anything( no clicks or anything). was told maybe a security issue cause i had the radio out during the new parts. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advanced.

black02gt
09-17-2010, 08:06 PM
no help???

bricooper78
09-17-2010, 08:31 PM
aside of there are several starter problems lately, i dunno man sorry

Pauljp
09-17-2010, 08:41 PM
Another guy is having the same problem as you.
Go here: http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84028 and read my post #6.
Don't put the keys in for this test, you don't actually want it to start.

black02gt
09-17-2010, 08:48 PM
Another guy is having the same problem as you.
Go here: http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84028 and read my post #6.
Don't put the keys in for this test, you don't actually want it to start.

thanks. yeah we did this with the new starter with key on and car started then turned right off.

Pauljp
09-17-2010, 09:26 PM
You said that when you turn the key, nothing happens.
If you just want to check fuses first....
Do you have a 12 volt test light or a meter?
Open your hood.
Take the cover off the fuse box beside the drivers strut tower.
Meter "IGN SW BATT 1" fuse #5 - it is a big one at the bottom left and should always be 12 volts. Check both sides of it.
This power goes to your ignition switch and STARTER RELAY #11.
Now locate "CRANK FUSE" #54 - small 10 amp fuse at the top center.
It should not have any power to it until someone turns the ignition switch to the START position.
Have someone turn the key to START while you meter both sides of fuse #54.
You should have 12 volts there ONLY when the key is in the START position.
This power goes to your "CRANK VOLTAGE" sensor of your Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
When your PCM sees this voltage, it will activate the "STARTER RELAY COIL CONTROL" and send a ground to your "STARTER RELAY" #11 in the fuse box under the hood.
This will activate the relay and send power from the big fuse #5 previously tested directly to your small wire of the starter solenoid, that I suggested you test on the previous post.

- If you DO NOT get any power at CRANK fuse #54 when the key is in the start position, then it is your ignition switch or wiring.
- If you DO get power at CRANK fuse #54 when the key is in the start position AND you have completed the starter test in my previous post, then it must be your PCM or your starter relay #11 or wiring.
You can eliminate the relay by swapping it with another matching one in the fuse box. There are several of the same type in there.

One side note: the starter relay requires power to it's coil which goes through Fuse #5, your ignition switch, "PCM ACC" fuse G located in the left instrument panel fuse box (check that) then through the "PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH" before it goes to the relay.
If all the other things I mentioned above checks out, then we can test this part next.

Try all this stuff and let us know how it goes.

03gagt
09-21-2010, 10:11 AM
My car had a problem like this. One of my push rods was broken, in which the security system kicked in (didn't allow me to start my car) either untill I got the push rod fixed, or a replacement motor. In this case a replacement motor. If I remember right, we had to turn the key to ON, (not start) so all the dash lights come on. Roll the windows down and lock the car from the inside. Shut the door and wait 15 minutes. Reach in through the window and take the keys out of the ignition and use the remote to unlock the car --YOU HAVE TO HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON AT LEAST 5-6 TIMES-- and get in and it would start. BUT this might not be the same problem you have.

black02gt
09-29-2010, 06:35 PM
My car had a problem like this. One of my push rods was broken, in which the security system kicked in (didn't allow me to start my car) either untill I got the push rod fixed, or a replacement motor. In this case a replacement motor. If I remember right, we had to turn the key to ON, (not start) so all the dash lights come on. Roll the windows down and lock the car from the inside. Shut the door and wait 15 minutes. Reach in through the window and take the keys out of the ignition and use the remote to unlock the car --YOU HAVE TO HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON AT LEAST 5-6 TIMES-- and get in and it would start. BUT this might not be the same problem you have.
thanks i will try that... nevermind dont have remotes

Mike Jung
09-29-2010, 08:39 PM
My car had a problem like this. One of my push rods was broken, in which the security system kicked in (didn't allow me to start my car) either untill I got the push rod fixed, or a replacement motor. In this case a replacement motor. If I remember right, we had to turn the key to ON, (not start) so all the dash lights come on. Roll the windows down and lock the car from the inside. Shut the door and wait 15 minutes. Reach in through the window and take the keys out of the ignition and use the remote to unlock the car --YOU HAVE TO HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON AT LEAST 5-6 TIMES-- and get in and it would start. BUT this might not be the same problem you have.
:wtf...umm, no LMAO lol

Try this instead:
SECURITY LEARN
1. Attempt to start the car by turning the key to the Start/Run Position.
2. Observe that the vehicle fails to start and that the security light is illuminated.
3. Release key to the 'ON/Accessory' Position. (DO NOT turn key to the 'off' position.)
4. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key in the 'ON/Accessory' Position for no less than 11 minutes.
5. Turn key to off position and allow the vehicle to remain in the 'OFF' position for no less than 30 seconds.
Repeat steps 1-5 for 3 cycles.
On 4th attempt, car should start.
NOTE : Since this is a fairly long procedure, You should limit all electrical sources, such as disconnecting headlights, to prevent discharge of battery. (you can also engage the ebrake prior to turning the key to keep the headlights from turning on.)

NOTE 2 : It is SAFER to wait LONGER than 11 minutes, but it is not safe to wait less time. I.e. 12 minutes instead of 11 minutes should be safe; however, waiting 10 minutes instead of 11 minutes is not safe.

Properly executed, this procedure should take approximately 35 minutes to complete.

black02gt
10-02-2010, 02:07 PM
:wtf...umm, no LMAO lol

Try this instead:

nope didn't work

Pauljp
10-02-2010, 04:51 PM
Did you check the voltages like I mentioned in post #6 ??

black02gt
10-02-2010, 05:54 PM
yes all that is fine

GranGT05
10-08-2010, 09:49 PM
I have a 05 GAGT and the car just died and tried to restart and gauges light up but nothing happens and then the gauges didn't even light up,No security light is on and the power windows will not work nor will the blower motor with the key on.???? WTF???? Headlights come on bright and radio comes on,,,blinkers work.

99blackgagt
10-15-2010, 01:22 PM
having the same problem...turn key to ON and lights on guages come on for a bit then go off...then i try to start the car and it has a hard time turning over. if i give it a little gas right when it turns over it will usually start...then it may rev up a little like normal and die again...i think there is a bad connection in the ignition switch and it is not holding its power in the ON position. any ideas?