View Full Version : Oil pan/Oil temp gauge ??
02-10-2011, 11:13 AM
Is there anywhere on the oil pan that is drilled and tapped that would be ideal for mounting the oil temp sensor. I have a autometer mech. gauge and I was looking to put this in, but I dont exactly want to drill and tap the oil pan so I thought id ask first.
02-10-2011, 01:05 PM
This is on the front of the block. #2 is a dummy sensor. You can take that sensor out and install your tubing for the gauge there. I would highly recommend an electric gauge with a sending unit. Just so if the tubing were to crack or come un-attached to the gauge you won't have oil dripping into the car.
But anyways just unscrew that sending unit and ziptie the plug somewhere and hold onto the unit in a toolbox or something for if you want to take the gauge out.
You might want to put a T fitting on it. The stock sending unit is a dummy sensor so it will kick a light at you if something goes below 5psi.
02-10-2011, 03:31 PM
Yeah, I have a elect oil pressure sensor and have the sending unit located in the stock one (no ses for the stock one being gone) but I was trying to figure out if there was somewhere else to get the temp probe in at. The oil temp gauge doesnt have oil flowing through the lines.....it just has a temp probe which reads the temp of the oil. I might have to try the t fitting idea if I cant find anywhere else....thanks for the quick post
02-10-2011, 04:05 PM
Your best bet is to T that one. I wouldn't bother with taking off the pan to drill and tap it.
02-10-2011, 05:09 PM
First of all, the thing circled as #1 is the engine knock sensor and you can't take that out. Secondly, the #2 thing is not a "dummy" sensor. It's not a sensor at all, it is a pressure switch. It only closes when there is less than 5psi of oil pressure and turns on a light on the gauge cluster. The PCM doesn't read oil pressure per-se, but it should see that the switch is closed and grounded when the ignition is on but the engine isn't running, and that the switch turns off when the engine is started and oil pressure goes up. Some years have a DTC for this and some don't. I have seen cars with it removed that don't have the code turned off and it always pops up in the PCM, but doesn't set an SES light.
The easiest thing to do is put a T fitting on that port of course. But if you put both the pressure sending unit for your gauge and the stock switch on it, then there is no place for a temp sensor.
However there are two main points I'd like to make. 1) since the oil at that point is just pressurized but not circulating, all you are really going to get is a static temp reading (mainly heat soak off the block), and not much of the actual change in oil temps. 2) If you don't have an oil cooler, then there is NO point in having an oil temp gauge. What is it going to tell you?... not how efficiently your non-existent cooler is working.
Oil typically takes a little longer to warm up than coolant, but my experience has been that once the engine is warmed up the oil stays within 5 degrees of the coolant. Is your coolant temp 220? Then your oil is probably 215-225. ;) The oil temp isn't going to change a great deal or very fast either unless you have a significant increase in thermal load, such as running boost, high compression, or nitrous... in which case then you should have an oil cooler anyway and will have a convenient place to put a sensor. I have a block adapter with a remote oil filter mount and a B&M oil cooler. There is a NPT T-fitting in the return port of the block adapter that places my temp sensor right in the oil stream returning from the cooler. That is the optimal setup. In any case, there are no unused threaded ports in the oil pan that you can use.
(don't have a pic of the block adapter right now, but here's the setup)
02-12-2011, 05:04 PM
Here's a couple more pics. Block adapter, hose routing, placement of the temp sensor and T fitting etc...
I'll have to double check my install one of these days, but it looks like I actually may have put the temp sensor in the supply line instead of the return line from the cooler. Not sure why I would have done that though. I'd have to remove the block adapter and check the oil passages to make sure which port is supply and which is return. Anyway, pics...
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