A Few Problems...Help? [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

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GeorgeMaN
02-18-2011, 09:32 PM
Hey there,

First off, I'd like to say that i'm somewhat new to this forum. :) I've made an account a while back, but I have been really busy with work lately and haven't had time to post around yet.

Anyways, I own an Automatic 99' GA Se, as showed in my profile picture, and i'm having a few problems with the car. Nothing major I don't think, but hopefully someone can tell me whats going on so I can further look into this.

-When I start the car, and leave it idle for a few minutes, the tachometer stays just under 1000, when it should obviously be lower.

-When I purchased the car about a year ago, it never came with a keyless entry remote. I'm not sure how to check to see if there is a transmitter inside the car, but I know that when I press the lock button inside the car once, and close the door...a few seconds later it locks and honks the horn/flashes the lights.

-When I make left turns and sometimes right turns there is a clicking sound that occurs. Would this be the wheel barrings that need to be changed?

-Every time I start the car, the Check Engine Light is ALWAYS on. I've tried to fix this many times, with many fails. I've taken it to a mechanic, and they don't know whats wrong with it. The weird thing is, when I changed my battery not to long ago it was off for about a week, then went back on...and stays on again.

-Lastly, a few minutes after driving, both the ABS and TRAC OFF lights come on. I would like to fix this, as it's very annoying and distracting while driving. Usually it happens when im turning, or I go over a set of train tracks or bumps on the road.

I'm very sorry to bother you guys, but if you able to provide some help then that would be perfect. I bought the car about a year ago, and plan to have it for a while. I love Grand Am's, and would love to put a bit of work into this car to make it my baby. I've already done a set of things such as minor touch ups, a fully new audio system, and actually today I had a new bumper painted and installed on the vehicle. (Old owners went over one of those concrete bricks in a parking lot, and broke a part of it).

Thank you very much for your help.
It is greatly appreciated. :)

SuburbGT
02-18-2011, 09:43 PM
1. does the idle go down after a few minutes?

2. not sure about the transmitter, i know that the dealer has to program for my car which is an 02. if there is a transmitter i would check in the trunk by the antenna for it

3. not sure what the clicking noise could be when turning, but bearing are replaced when there is a grinding noise that goes away when you turn the wheel the direction of the side the bad one is on

4. have you ever figured out what the code is for?

5. abs sensor most likley, read around in this thread...http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42959

GeorgeMaN
02-18-2011, 10:22 PM
1. does the idle go down after a few minutes?

2. not sure about the transmitter, i know that the dealer has to program for my car which is an 02. if there is a transmitter i would check in the trunk by the antenna for it

3. not sure what the clicking noise could be when turning, but bearing are replaced when there is a grinding noise that goes away when you turn the wheel the direction of the side the bad one is on

4. have you ever figured out what the code is for?

5. abs sensor most likley, read around in this thread...http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42959

1. No, it stays like that.

2. Yeah I might take it to a dealership to get it checked out, but they charge like 60 bucks just to take a 2 second look at the car. ;/

3. Yeah im not too sure either, you could say its sort of like a grinding noise...but it only happens when I turn the car. (Mostly to the left). As I steer forward, theres no problems at all.

4. No, but ill look into it.

5. Thanks for the link, so basically all I need to do is change the ABS sensor and everything will be okay once again?

Thanks for the help, SuburbGT

SuburbGT
02-18-2011, 10:57 PM
the high idle could likley be a evap leak, which could also be why your check engine light is on...

before you take it to the dealership, search around on this site, probably will find what you're looking for

a good way to check if it's the bearings is to lift the front end and spin the wheel by hand and put your other hand on the spring and see if it vibrates

and no garuntees on the abs sensor but it's very likley thats what it could be

WidbyJ
02-19-2011, 02:31 AM
1 - High idle can also be caused by a bad IAC. Clean and check before replacing.
2 - All of these cars have a receiver for remotes
3 - Bad bearings on these cars can do this also
4 - Get the code and let us help. Many auto parts places can read them for free
5 - ABS light is usually caused by a bad hub assembly. The wheel bearings and ABS sensor are a sealed unit, see #3

GeorgeMaN
02-21-2011, 10:03 PM
Sorry for the late reply guys,

Thanks for all your help/recommendations.

Ill be taking the car to another mechanic tomorrow for him to take a look at it. Hopefully he can give me a code or some useful information I can give to you guys in order to solve this.
I would really like to get the car in good working condition, without worrying if the cars going to make it to my future destinations...(you never know right) :P

Thanks.

GeorgeMaN
02-22-2011, 12:42 PM
UPDATE:

Hey guys,

Just got back from Master Mechanic, because I live in Canada.

He wanted to charge me $120 just to get the ERROR codes!?!?
I couldn't believe it...I know.

Anyways, I did however get a free inspection and he gave me a copy of the inspection paper. I scanned it, and uploaded it for you guys to see.

Have a look and tell me what you think, because some of this makes no sense to me...and he didn't explain it very well at the shop.

LINK HERE > http://i56.tinypic.com/8z44gl.jpg

Thanks :)

AaronGTR
02-22-2011, 04:32 PM
pfft... yeah that doesn't tell you anything useful! :rolleyes: What a joke. So did he read the codes or not? All that he marked was that the SES light was on and didn't write down any of the codes.

GeorgeMaN
02-22-2011, 07:58 PM
pfft... yeah that doesn't tell you anything useful! :rolleyes: What a joke. So did he read the codes or not? All that he marked was that the SES light was on and didn't write down any of the codes.

Well thanks for the advice, but do you think I should fix anything here?
I mean I don't want that power steering leak to get any worse..

And fix that "Left outer boot", whatever that is... lol.
Like I said, he never explained exactly, he just read off the page.

Ill try to take it somewhere else in the area to see if they can read the codes for free, because I don't really want to pay $120 for it...;/

AaronGTR
02-22-2011, 09:21 PM
Well, if there is a hole in the boot over the CV joint, yes that could be bad. That's the part of the front axle that lets it flex so it can follow the suspension and steering movement. If it's not a big hole or it's not been there very long, then the CV should still be ok. If it gets a bunch if dirt and grit in there though it will wear out over time and starting making noises (going over bumps or turning corners). If it's not making any noise, then normally I'd recommend cleaning and re-greasing it and replacing the boot. Boots are cheap, but unfortunately the labor will be expensive because in order to replace the boot you have to remove the axle from the hub.

As for the other stuff... well it sounds like he could be finding leaks just to try and convince you to replace stuff. Some things just start to seep a little fluid out as cars get old, and it doesn't necessarily mean something needs to be repaired. I replaced the oil pan and gasket on my 176k mile grand prix and guess what.... it still drips oil. I would just keep an eye on your fluid levels (oil, power steering, etc) and if you aren't seeing any appreciable drop and not having to add fluid all the time, then don't worry about it.

GeorgeMaN
02-22-2011, 09:42 PM
Well, if there is a hole in the boot over the CV joint, yes that could be bad. That's the part of the front axle that lets it flex so it can follow the suspension and steering movement. If it's not a big hole or it's not been there very long, then the CV should still be ok. If it gets a bunch if dirt and grit in there though it will wear out over time and starting making noises (going over bumps or turning corners). If it's not making any noise, then normally I'd recommend cleaning and re-greasing it and replacing the boot. Boots are cheap, but unfortunately the labor will be expensive because in order to replace the boot you have to remove the axle from the hub.

As for the other stuff... well it sounds like he could be finding leaks just to try and convince you to replace stuff. Some things just start to seep a little fluid out as cars get old, and it doesn't necessarily mean something needs to be repaired. I replaced the oil pan and gasket on my 176k mile grand prix and guess what.... it still drips oil. I would just keep an eye on your fluid levels (oil, power steering, etc) and if you aren't seeing any appreciable drop and not having to add fluid all the time, then don't worry about it.

I appreciate the help, thank you.

As soon as I walked out of the mechanics, that's exactly what I had in mind. I thought he was just marking it down so that he could gain more business, and that's why i'm not to worried about it. I haven't changed the fluids in the car since I bought it a little over a year ago, and have noticed no difference since the day I drove it off for the first time.

As for the CV Joints, ill keep a close eye on them. I haven't really noticed any strange activity on the vehicle other then whats stated above. You are right however, whenever I turn corners it makes a grinding sound. Its usually when I turn a left corner, but it will also happen if I make a full right turn.

-GeorgeMaN

GeorgeMaN
02-23-2011, 01:16 PM
Alright guys, i'm back with the latest.

So I went to a different garage today, who didn't charge me a dime to read the codes for me. He also took the car out for about 2-3 minutes so he could understand what I was talking about with the grinding noises.

He came back and gave me this:

PO440A - EVAP Emissions System

Thats all that was written down.

He said that because there is a little bit of rust around the gas cap, I should sand it down a bit and replace the gas cap to fix the problem.

This would fix the check engine light he said, as for the grinding noise he said he would have to further look into it because he was busy. He said hes almost certain that it's the left bearing, and that would have to be replaced.

He also mentioned I have nothing to worry about, which is good to hear.

Im surprised though, because that's the only error code that was coming up on the car, nothing about the ABS/Trac Off lights... :wtf

WidbyJ
02-23-2011, 01:33 PM
Not much of a surprise, typically the bad bearing/hub will trip the ABS/Trac light which is a seperate sub-system on these cars. It's pretty easy to replace the hub yourself if you are mechanically inclined...

Gas caps not sealing properly are fairly common also and can cause the EVAP failure. Check the cap itself as it could be that the gasket has worn/failed. New ones (locking optionally) are not too expensive and available at any autoparts place.

AaronGTR
02-23-2011, 05:01 PM
Yeah, the ABS/Trac lights will set codes in the body control module (BCM) because they are part of the brake system. There are two separate lights on the dash, service engine soon (SES) and service vehicle soon (SVS). Codes in the BCM will usually set off the SVS light, and codes for the engine or transmission will set off the SES light and will be stored in the Powertrain control module (PCM). The EVAP code has to do with the engine so it would be the only code that would show up if the shop scanned the PCM only. If they scanned the BCM codes too, then there might be something in there about the ABS. If he thinks a wheel bearing is going bad, then that would definitely be a cause for the ABS/Trac lights to come on.


Hope I didn't hit ya with too many acronyms there. lol

GeorgeMaN
02-23-2011, 05:42 PM
Yeah, the ABS/Trac lights will set codes in the body control module (BCM) because they are part of the brake system. There are two separate lights on the dash, service engine soon (SES) and service vehicle soon (SVS). Codes in the BCM will usually set off the SVS light, and codes for the engine or transmission will set off the SES light and will be stored in the Powertrain control module (PCM). The EVAP code has to do with the engine so it would be the only code that would show up if the shop scanned the PCM only. If they scanned the BCM codes too, then there might be something in there about the ABS. If he thinks a wheel bearing is going bad, then that would definitely be a cause for the ABS/Trac lights to come on.


Hope I didn't hit ya with too many acronyms there. lol

Ahah that's alright I understand.

So basically what im going to do is to follow what the mechanic said...im going to use some sandpaper and sand around the edge of the gas cap to get the rust off, and buy a new gas cap from a local auto parts shop. Should only be about 30-40 bucks for a new one here.

Oh, and ofcourse I would need to fix those bearings, which sound expensive..

WidbyJ
02-23-2011, 09:54 PM
Usual price for a new hub assembly around here is 80 to 100 bucks....

GeorgeMaN
02-24-2011, 08:32 AM
Usual price for a new hub assembly around here is 80 to 100 bucks....

Yeah I'm pretty sure that's what it would cost to fix it here, usually around the same price.

What do you think about getting a decently used one?

Good/Bad Idea?

Oh, and so far so good with the SVS light, he cleared it yesterday and it still hasen't come back on....yet. :P

WidbyJ
02-24-2011, 09:38 AM
Personally I never put used parts in critical locations, wheel hubs being one of them.

GeorgeMaN
02-24-2011, 12:41 PM
Personally I never put used parts in critical locations, wheel hubs being one of them.

Alright, thanks for the tip. :)