New Issue [Archive] - GrandAmGT.com Forum

PDA

View Full Version : New Issue


Sleepwalkr
05-10-2011, 08:08 PM
Ok, a new and exciting issue with my car.

For the last couple of weeks, I've noticed when I'm pulling hard (4,000 rpm or more), or going up a hill, my car kinda sputters and jerks. Its not violent, but worrysome. Its kinda like somethings being speratically starved of fuel. Also, when I'm sitting at a light with the car in Drive and my foot on the brake, if I'm at the light for more than about 15 seconds its kinda does it again...almost like its getting ready to die, but it never does. But if I put it in Neutral, it seems to rev just fine. The last 2 times I filled up with gas, I put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in, hoping maybe I had a dirty or clogged injector, but its only gotten worse.

So, this problem has been getting increasingly worse for the past 2 weeks or so. Today, not even pulling hard this time, from a stop sign it was very sluggish, almost felt like I had very little power, and it jerked and sputtered... from a stop...for the first time. Plus, when I did come to a hill, at only 2200 rpm or so, it did sputter and jerk even worse, plus the check engine light started flashing at me...for about a minute. It did the same thing again about 3 miles down the road. I read in the manual that when you get a flashing SES light, it has detected a "missfire in the emissions control system". So uh, anyone know whats going on here? Now I am kinda worried that my car is gonna just die on me or I'm gonna lose power at a crucial moment.

I was told a while back that I could stand to replace my EGR valve. Maybe? Is it a bad injector? I replaced my fuel filter about 6 months ago.

Why would it do it so bad when pulling harder and not at all when I let off the gas and just coast?

Any suggestions or comments would be awesome. Thanks.

MAC the KNIFE
05-10-2011, 09:47 PM
my 99 has been doing something similar. runs fine till 4000 rpm. then it "hiccups." twice it has done this severely, choking out at 2300 rpm! both times were during ultra humid conditions. then it acts perfectly normal for a couple weeks and then it starts again at 4000rpm.
i have 100k miles on it, i also ran seafoam through the fuel tank along with 93 octane. that helped the car run better overall, but still hiccups above 4000rpm.

i was thinking dirty injector, dirty o2 sensor, clogged CAT, getting knock, clogged fuel line. but most of those reasons can't explain the 2 incidences of 2300 rpm choke out.

also, it only happens at 4000rpm at wide open throttle. if say, the throttle were 85%, i can go above 4000rpm smoothly, no hiccups.

SC/T02
05-11-2011, 07:28 AM
Maybe start with a tune up (plugs check gap and replace/wires/fuel filter...) Run the small bottle of Lucas through the gas tank. Sounds like a failing injector. You give it the gas, the computer tells the injector to spray more and something is blocking it causing it to fail. Then the computer trys to compensate with the miss and would give a similar issue. Not sure if that is it, but I would start with that. a Bad O2 snesor would have you drop in MPG pretty bad, a failing injector will also once it fails totally.

Sleepwalkr
05-11-2011, 08:36 PM
On my way to work this morning the SES light just stayed on the whole way. (about 26 miles) It didn't flash, just a steady ON. However, on the way home, it stayed on and then flashed at me for about 30 seconds when I gave it some gas to get up to about 65mph. I decided to stop at Autozone and do the computer reading, and it actually read "Cylinder 2 missfire". I'm hoping that a tune-up or just changing the spark plugs and wires will do the trick. If not, I have that bad feeling that it'll cost me a bunch more money.

Anyone know what a standard tune-up involves and about what they cost? I'm guessing a tune-up includes plugs & wires and a new belt, but what else?

SC/T02
05-11-2011, 08:54 PM
^ How many miles ya got? If you have a ton of miles I would not change fluids. If you are around 100K I would change fluids.
Air Filter
Oil/Filter
Fuel Filter
Spark Plug Wires
Change PCV valve
Spark Plugs (With Proper Gap)
Run Lucas Gas Treatment Through Car

*With Higher Miles*
Serp Belt
Coil Packs
Timing Belt
Change O2 Sensor
Clean any crap out of MAF Sensor

SC/T02
05-11-2011, 08:59 PM
A "modern" tune up is a half assed oil change/plugs/wires that cost $100+ You can buy most of the above list for about the same and do it your self. Coil packs and a few things cost some bucks (packs like $20x3 wires $25 Plugs $25 O2 is like $50) I have not priced that stuff out for a Grand Am in a LONG time but that is a ballpark figure The rest are pretty small ticket items. I would think for $200 you could get my entire list. That to be done at a shop would run about $800-$1100 I would imagine. Maybe more with fluid changes.

bricooper78
05-11-2011, 10:25 PM
pull the ignition module off and have it tested. it's free, and it could be one circuit of it starting to die.

it's easy to get to, and free. i would quite honestly doubt that will be it, but it is why mine decided it would no longer start lol

and those packs are 34 and some change iirc

germaphobicmonk
05-12-2011, 03:51 PM
My car was doing this. Replaced spark plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, etc. Almost all of the culprits. I was still having the problem so I took the car to my uncle (who is a GM mechanic). It ended up being a fuel injector. It was like $130 for the part (he didn't charge me labor). Down here it's like $80 an hour for shop labor. So if you can find a mechanic to do it for cheap (or do it yourself) I would suggest replacing the faulty injector.

Sleepwalkr
05-12-2011, 06:49 PM
pull the ignition module off and have it tested. it's free, and it could be one circuit of it starting to die.

it's easy to get to, and free. i would quite honestly doubt that will be it, but it is why mine decided it would no longer start lol

and those packs are 34 and some change iirc

Actually, I just had a brand new ignition module put in about a month ago cuz my car wasn't starting.

BTW, at the time, I took it out, had it tested at Autozone and they said it was fine. Then I took it to my father-in-laws friends shop and he replaced the IM, and it started just fine. Sucks cuz I could've done it myself for about $90 and in 20 minutes, and it ended up costing me over $220 cuz he charged me $100 just to hook it up to his expensive machine + part + labor.

Besides, the ignition module is pretty much just for starting the car right? It does that just fine....... now.

Sleepwalkr
05-12-2011, 06:51 PM
My car was doing this. Replaced spark plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, etc. Almost all of the culprits. I was still having the problem so I took the car to my uncle (who is a GM mechanic). It ended up being a fuel injector. It was like $130 for the part (he didn't charge me labor). Down here it's like $80 an hour for shop labor. So if you can find a mechanic to do it for cheap (or do it yourself) I would suggest replacing the faulty injector.

Yah, but would the computer-reading actually say "Cylinder 2 Missfire" if it was a fuel injector and not just spark plugs?

bricooper78
05-12-2011, 07:22 PM
the ignition module(s), it is several ignition modules in one piece, control quite a bit . it is alone in starting the car, up until 600rpm, when it hands off to the ecm. it is still responsible for retarding and advancing spark, and causing fire in each cylinder. there are several items it controls, just because one is out, doesn't mean another isn't.
also, "just because it tests good, doesn't mean it is. but if it tests bad, it 1000% sure is." Quote from my Guru lol

germaphobicmonk
05-12-2011, 08:32 PM
Yah, but would the computer-reading actually say "Cylinder 2 Missfire" if it was a fuel injector and not just spark plugs?

Mine was giving off a "Cylinder 3 Misfire". Replaced the injector and for six months there were no more problems (sold the car and bought a new one) so I don't know how it's doing now. :cool:

EDIT: Misfire code was given off from Auto Zone AND dealership.

bricooper78
05-12-2011, 08:33 PM
have you pulled the plugs and looked at them? for black, brown, white, wetness?

Sleepwalkr
05-12-2011, 09:43 PM
So is it a huge pain in the ass to replace an injector? Keep in mind that I don't have a whole lot of experience doing underhood stuff. Its not that I can't, but I get nervous thinking I'm gonna fock something up more than the initial problem and not be able to drive the car at all.

germaphobicmonk
05-12-2011, 10:05 PM
So is it a huge pain in the ass to replace an injector? Keep in mind that I don't have a whole lot of experience doing underhood stuff. Its not that I can't, but I get nervous thinking I'm gonna fock something up more than the initial problem and not be able to drive the car at all.

The first step in changing a fuel injector is to make sure that there's no fuel on the rail before pulling the fuel pump fuse out and letting the engine die. After that alot of careful pulling and tugging and be careful with the fuel.

It's a PITA to me and I work 60+ hours a week, so I got my uncle to do it. :D

If you don't know what you're doing, I strongly recommend you get someone else to do it.

As stated before, you could check spark plugs first (cheap), and if that doesn't work, go for option #2.

Sleepwalkr
05-16-2011, 08:32 PM
Unfortunately, I've been very busy and I haven't had time to check or "fix" anything. I did talk to a friend of mine who said he had pretty close to the same issue with his Chevy truck. He said he replaced his plugs and wires, had a missfire in "cylinder 1" so he replaced the injector, and swapped out his fuel pump and filter.....and nothing. He said it ended up being his O2 sensor. I'm wondering if this could be my issue too?

Anyway, of all the things we've discussed in this thread, where should I start that'll be the easiest and/or cheapest way to begin? I don't have much money right now, but the good news is that my wife finally got a job after 2 years of looking, so we should be able to start fixing some things, etc.......

germaphobicmonk
05-16-2011, 08:59 PM
Unfortunately, I've been very busy and I haven't had time to check or "fix" anything. I did talk to a friend of mine who said he had pretty close to the same issue with his Chevy truck. He said he replaced his plugs and wires, had a missfire in "cylinder 1" so he replaced the injector, and swapped out his fuel pump and filter.....and nothing. He said it ended up being his O2 sensor. I'm wondering if this could be my issue too?

Anyway, of all the things we've discussed in this thread, where should I start that'll be the easiest and/or cheapest way to begin? I don't have much money right now, but the good news is that my wife finally got a job after 2 years of looking, so we should be able to start fixing some things, etc.......

See that's the problem, it could be any of those things. You could go on a man hunt and replace everything one by one or just face the music and take it in to get it diagnosed.

IMO, I would just take it in, get the mechanic to pin point the problem, and go from there.

The dealership where my uncle works just charges one (1) hours worth of labor to "diagnose" a car.

That's my two cents. Good luck dude. The only way to "fix" all of the problems with this car is to just get rid of it. lol

SC/T02
05-17-2011, 03:52 AM
I don't think it is going to be the o2 sensor. You would be getting SES lights and it would not be cylinder 2 specific (99 time out of 100). If you are not getting crap gas milage then I would not think injector either. Both a bad o2 and bad injector (stuck in full open position) will destroy your MPGs.

If nothing else, buy some Lucas gas treatment and pour it in the tank. Pop the hood and inspect the wires to make sure they are not burned through. Hunt down plug 2 and look at it. Then go to more expensive fixes. A novice with a socket wrench s plug socket and a few basic hand tools can change plugs and wires in less then 1.5 hours. I can't remember but I believe the back ones are hard to get to without taking the coil pack bracket off (very simple to do).

Your issue may be as far off as a clogged Cat Converter which may show up on different scanners as lean in bacnk 1 or 2 or a number of other things. It would explaine the issues over specific RPMs

Sleepwalkr
05-21-2011, 08:06 PM
So I go to turn on the AC today and NO fan whatesoever....until I turn it to "5". Then it blows like the focking wind. What the hell?

HOYS
05-21-2011, 08:32 PM
So I go to turn on the AC today and NO fan whatesoever....until I turn it to "5". Then it blows like the focking wind. What the hell?

Blower motor resistor has gone bad.

Common problem with 5th gens.

AaronGTR
05-21-2011, 10:02 PM
I would say clogged cat or fuel injector. A flashing SES light means severe "catalyst damaging" misfires, and the car will go into limp mode and have low power. A clogged cat will also cause loss of power and rough engine operation. If you haven't yet, take it somewhere and get the PCM read. It would help to know what DTC codes are set. And yeah, the fan speed thing is a bad blower resistor. High speed runs on an open circuit so when the resistor is bad lower speeds will be out but high speed works.